bluelaser

I have always emailed sales@ficaraudio.com, he was just the guy that would always respond. haven't gotten a response in over 6 months now

I'm wondering the same thing, I was emailing nick over the summer about a sub that didn't sound right, and he was responding until i asked to send it back. After no response for months I emailed again in january asking for an RMA, again in the middle of feb, and then again today since my warranty expires tomorrow. I also cant log into the fi website ever since they redesigned it, it says my account doesnt exist??

ok ordered the 80prs now I just need to figure out speakers

Hi, was wondering if anybody could help me. I have been looking around trying to figure out how to cross over my system correctly but have not come up with a clear answer. I am in the process of upgrading my system, currently running 1 fi q on 1 q1-2200d as well as 4 coaxial speakers on an alpine cde-141 with the power pack connected to it. I was running the passive crossovers on the headunit at 80hz but now I am getting another fi q and q1-2200d and taking out the coaxial speakers and replacing them with 2 crescendo 8" pwx and 4 crescendo ft1 tweeters and running them with kicker kx800.2 and kx800.4 amps. The 2 pwx speakers will be in the front with 2 of the tweeters and 2 of the tweeters in the back. This is where im running into problems, the cde-141 only have 2 rca outs (front and rear/sub), also I would like to run active crossovers if possible. I know i will probably need a headunit with 3 rca outs but then what kind of crossover do I get? Everything I look at seems to be front and rear are different channels but thats it. How do I split the signal between the mid/tweets in the front as well as have a different signal for the rear tweeters and different signal for the subwoofer? Any help would be appreciated.

so should I just go with dayton 7 inch drivers?

Was looking at the deh-80prs and it looks nice but is the sound quality really better than the clarion to justify the price difference? and as far as tweeters im not sure what kind I like all I know is systems with tweeters always sound better than systems without. I mean I do like the sound quality of my infinity reference 5022i coaxial tweeters at lower volume levels, they just dont hold up to well at higher volumes. The kind of sound I like is when guitar solos sound real/live (from a good band not one that cant play live) and hold up at higher volumes. Budget is about 500 or less for both mids and tweets, mounting depth isnt a big deal because I can modify my door as much as I need to.

ok so who makes a good 7" driver, dayton perhaps? and vifa for a tweeter? also what would a good processor be or should i just get the clarion cz702?

what other info do you need?

still unsure about the freq response graphs, when I look at the silver flutes the 8" looks flatter than the 6.5" especially around 1k. Also the 8 ohm versions appear to have less output overall. Am I looking at the graphs wrong or something?

explain what you mean about independent left/right equalizer settings

right now not much but am planning on getting a clarion cz702 for the 3 preamps and active crossovers, midbass doesnt have to be perfect i just dont want it practically non existant like it is currently from infinity reference coaxials

the compromise would be sacrificing some volume for better overall sound quality and flatter response, unless you mean would i rather sacrifice midbass or vocal range then i would rather have stronger midbass than vocal range as long as its not severely crippled i currently turn my treble up to +3 to match my subwoofer so i guess i like good bass and good treble and am willing to sacrifice a little midrange, unless you think a 6.5 is just more well rounded than an 8 and could do 80-3k hz without much problem

so you're suggesting an 8 ohm 6.5 speaker for mid?

why is 8ohm better?

the silver flute 8" is going to go in the stock 5.25/6.5 door location after i mod the doors, and the Vifa XT25BG60-04 will go somewhere above that wherever I could fit in the door most likely, Im willing to do pretty much any amount of work honestly since its something i like to do in my free time and someday want to start a company installing car audio somebody else recommended sb acoustic for mid but it was more money than sf and couldnt find a 4ohm 8" driver for sb acoustic either so i figured the sf would serve my purpose better, still open to suggestions though

I know this now, in the process of returning those speakers. What do you guys think of this combination? https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-8-woofers/silver-flute-w20rc38-04-ohm-8-wool-cone/ and https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/ring-radiator-tweeters/vifa-xt25bg60-04-vifa-ring-dome-tweeter-double-magnet-4-ohm/ crossing at about ~2-3k as far as holes i just dont want anything that sounds seriously bad, I want good sound quality so when im not playing bassy songs I can adjust to subwoofer to be flat with the mid and high, those graphs looked pretty nice but somebody else probably knows what they are looking at better than me no matter what i will probably be happy though because right now i just have 45rms x4 power coaxials so I cant imagine having dedicated speakers with 100-200rms going into each one will be worse, and im not seriously unhappy with my current situation, i just want more

I would assume unable to play a certain frequency, or could play it but sound like shit

The most important thing is that I have no holes in the response, and im pretty willing to cut my doors up good although I dont think I would have enough room for anything bigger than 8" speakers and 1 or 2 smaller speakers, I know the midbass will never truely keep up with with the subwoofers but the closer I can get the better. once again I have up to 200rms @ 4ohms per side to dedicate the midbass and another 100-200rms @4ohm per side to dedicate to treble.

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-6-7-woofers-sb-acoustics/sb-acoustics-sb17nac35-4-6.5-aluminum-cone-woofer-4-ohm/ how would these compare? is the aluminum cone a better model?

the sb accoustic midbass looks nice, will it be able to keep up with the substage since its just a 6.5? also does it need an enclosure or will it work fine in the door?

found a forum saying that silver flute mids and vifa ne25vta tweeters are a good combo to run active, any input?

how would these work? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_65568_Pioneer-TS-M800PRO.html is this the same deal with the pwx not much midbass?

i could do infinite baffle or door pods, I love building/installing car audio so im not afraid of a little work the dayton audio rs180-4 7" looks good as long as you cross it at 2500hz but is only 60rms so I dont know if it would keep up with the subs, i got 200rms to work with for midbass speakers at 4ohms

this is where things get unclear though, after watching videos and reading forums/reviews I was under the impression that the crescendo pwx were great midbass drivers but was just told they arnt. i guess im just lost now on what speakers to use. where do I even begin to figure out what the right midbass driver for me is?

Cross the Qs around 50-60hz. You'll thank me later. whys that? and whats a good midbass speaker to pick up at 50-60hz then?