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b0r

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About b0r

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  1. 0Ga on both power and ground into 4Ga reducers. I have a 4 foot run of ground into a reducer and about 2 feet of 4 ga ground so it fits into/reaches the amp. Should I consider a 4 ga only ground and try to find a spot close to the amp which is in the back seat? Stock battery is in the trunk btw and currently grounded to that. get rid of the reducers. Always use the largest cable you can use. You ALWAYS want a straight run for your ground cable, don't splice it or reduce its size in the middle somewhere. What amp do you have again? Always use the largest wire your amp can fit and always use the same size ground cable as you have for your power cable. If you have larger wire it is okay to use reducers, but make sure they are as large as the amp will allow. Make sure after you do all of these things that your ground cable is no more than 3ft long and ALL of the paint is stripped away from the mounting point. Make sure that your ground is connected SOLID to the chassis of the vehicle.The amp can take 4 Ga. It's a Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP. I used reducers because when I bought the car, I didn't know the stock battery was in the trunk, So I found myself with 20 feet of power wire in 0 ga that I didn't need. I went the reducer route in the event I got an amp for my mids and highs. Just a simple connection with 4 ga wire. I think the only thing within 3 feet of my amp is a seat bolt so I'll have to mess with that idea next week when I paint the car. Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
  2. 0Ga on both power and ground into 4Ga reducers. I have a 4 foot run of ground into a reducer and about 2 feet of 4 ga ground so it fits into/reaches the amp. Should I consider a 4 ga only ground and try to find a spot close to the amp which is in the back seat? Stock battery is in the trunk btw and currently grounded to that.
  3. I want to get the temperature after an hour and ask Rockford if it's okay, lol. The power and ground wires are not hot so I'm thinking this amp just runs this way. Gain turned down, volume barely up it basically stays the same temp. its like alton said. There are even amps today that you can cook and egg on. The amp WILL go into protection if its too hot. People who have a ton of experience with this stuff are all telling you the same thing and you still don't want to take our word for it. There is nothing wrong with an amp getting hot, but IF it goes into protection then you have to troubleshoot any problems. When an amp goes into protection it doesn't kill the amp, its just letting you know that something is wrong. Your setup is just fine, now stop babying it and play it how you really want to.I hear that. I reiterated for this specific amp, and not because I didn't understand any particular answer. It has been my experience since 2002 that amps heat up as they play or if there is a problem. This amp will get to 135F in twenty minutes whether it's playing a sub or not, which was more my concern. I did test it, turned the sub down to -3 at the head unit and low volume, counted how long I could hold without being burned and then again with +6 and playing loud and there was no noticeable difference. Just strange to me that the amp is roasting with no gain or heavy playing, just power.
  4. I want to get the temperature after an hour and ask Rockford if it's okay, lol. The power and ground wires are not hot so I'm thinking this amp just runs this way. Gain turned down, volume barely up it basically stays the same temp.
  5. I've heard these Rockford power series just run hot, but I don't know for sure.
  6. My sub is barely showing signs of temp but my amp is getting hot...if I had to guess above 110F for sure, maybe hotter. Solid ground at the battery, 0 ga power and ground wires into 4ga reducers. I'm not sure if this is normal for 1 ohm but the gain is barely up and I'm playing at 50% volume so it's strange.
  7. I assume so. My amp is cooking...on volume 25/47 with gain barely up it's hot...not insane hot but hot enough to wonder why at such low gain and volume. Grounded to the battery so the ground is solid. 0ga power and ground into 4 ga reducers. Voltage on my radar detector doesn't drop below 13.7. Is this just the cause of a 1 ohm wiring? It's on the back seat so I can feel it and it's slightly concerning. No thermal light yet though.
  8. An F1? I need a new head unit anyway, this thing is 2 1/2 years old. Any double din recommendations? Has to be touch screen. I'd like a capacitive screen instead of this resistive type as well.
  9. My concern was 100% in not utilizing my equipment. I just wanted to make sure the box was legit, the amp was enough and the sub was not burning up. The thing is, with cheap equipment, who cares? $120 sub blows? Buy another one and turn the gain down. Blowing a few $400 woofers is enough to turn me off completely. I'm going to set gains by ear tonight and let it go. I'm just picky with my electronics. Everything I have, no matter how old, can be sold as if it were brand new. I don't like the risk variable, but I have to accept it.
  10. Bummer, you have to be confused completely. That site is full of bullshit. Sorry Rofl. I see what you did there. Actually, I'm learning quite a bit and I honestly appreciate it. I don't plan on running any competitions or having a big dick contest, I just find value in promoting a brand such as Fi, regardless of the made in America part. I still enjoy the market and I think more people can benefit from the knowledge on this forum and from the workers at Fi like Nick, who takes the time to respond to customer inquires, no matter how juvenile the question.I moved my amp today, drilled it into the back of my fold down back seat so I can easily adjust the gain and monitor it's temps. It was hot, but not hot enough to burn me or make me pull my hand away. I need to get familiar with my equipment so I know what is acceptable heat wise. It should get better ambient cooling being in the cabin now as well. I have not yet adjusted the gain. I think I'm going to play my deepest bass song, adjust at my preferred listening volume and monitor temps over a few hours to see where I'm at. I've used this method on tens of subs before the DD-1 and only ever blew a pair of Visonik's back when I was 15. My last question, my head unit has 2 subwoofer options. One appears to be the general subwoofer level, which is +6. And then there's another subwoofer option in another setting where I have it at +6 as well. Should I just make both of these 0 and adjust gain only? Does the EQ crossover options such as vocal or xplod affect the woofer? One of the frequencies in the curve is 65Hz or so, but is that only for the mids/highs? Thanks again everyone. Zero everything. No bass boost, do not EQ to the + side, always attenuate (dial the EQ down). You claimed you were clipping the HU at 47 out of 50 and you have the sub outs dialed to +6? Bullshit. Not bullshit on you, but it is proof that the DD1 is a complete pile of shit. Not only that, but there is no way in hell an Xplod unit is clean to 94% of it's total output at 0... no way in hell. In all fairness, it's a $500 7 inch in-dash, but I get it, lol. I should just buy an excelon in dash.
  11. Money wasn't an issue, but I didn't buy an SP4 because I don't have the power to ever run it to max potential or even slightly near rms. Never looked at the Xcon, but it looks like a beast. Perhaps I should've went that route. Maybe if I accidentally blow this up I would. 18mm is less than an inch if I'm not mistaken..so wow. Perplexed.
  12. Just referring to YouTube videos of BLs on the same type of power in the same type of box give or take a .5 cubes. Their subs are flexing like jello and mine hits hard don't get me wrong, but it barely moves. It is still "New" with roughly 10 hours or so of play time.
  13. Yeah that's what I've learned here and what I did for over a decade prior to the DD-1. I just fell victim to a device claiming to get rid of any potential damage to my sub. Fool me once.
  14. Sub is wired to 1 ohm following the crutchfield diagram. Pos to pos, neg to neg jumper and left pos going to box and right neg going to box. Tested at the speaker wire before going into the amp with a volt meter showing 1.3 which I'm pretty sure is the 1 ohm reading I'm looking for. Gain is up maybe 2 centimeters or less based on DD-1 tuning.
  15. Caraudio.com. all head unit settings are off or flat except for the subwoofer level which is +6. Infrasonic filter is on@28Hz and the low pass is set to 80Hz.
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