Jump to content

manbeer

Members
  • Content Count

    443
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by manbeer

  1. I am considering a set of these to run in my front stage and have heard nothing but good about them, but haven't been able to find any specs. ESPECIALLY important is depth because i am working with limited room. If anyone know where i can get the specs or can post them up i would appreciate. thanks
  2. Well, the DCON 12 that i won in the giveaway arrived today. I immediately removed it from the package and examined it. Aside from the motor it is a spitting image of the Icon. Glue joints are flawless and just looking over it and holding it you can tell the build quality is top notch. I have pics i will post up when i do the build log I actually spent yesterday rewiring the car and prepping things, so i was eager to put it in a temporary prefab box to start breaking it in. I finally got it in around 8 this evening and started to play around with it. New box build will be coming over the next week, it is currently in 1.25 cubes gross, sealed I can already tell that this thing is a little beast. One person mentioned that they would put it up against a CVR, which i have also owned...i say even with 0 hours of break-in time and only 300 watts it is equivilent in output to the well broken in CVR i was running off of a BX1000d @ 1 ohm (probably 800ish watts) In terms of transient response and lows it absolutely slaughters it. I got about 2 hours of listening time, and so far i am extremely impressed with it. It is just as loud as all the "comparable" mass-produced woofers with less power than i have used with any of them, and with new, stiff suspension. Even after 2 hours i am starting to nitce a small difference, and i can see that it still isn't approaching mechanical limits so i can't wait to hear more One nice thing i have to add is that it loves rock! Most of the subs i have owned have been great for hip hop and things of that nature but this one is equally at home on all the rock albums i had on hand. The floor toms at the beginning of "Enter Sandman" were extremely punchy and lively, even more so than the Kappa Perfects i used to run which performed very well on rock I have even more to say but i am going to wait for the real thread. This was just to let everyone know how happy i am with its out of the box performance since not to many people have had the chance to post and listening reviews yet
  3. manbeer

    sundown power pwning my windows

    I don't even now what to say. Holy chit
  4. manbeer

    New Zed amps

    ^signature material right there
  5. manbeer

    12" Dcon common chamber flared port

    That is SO nice! I wish i could hear one of the flared port boxes in person, or that i had room for something like that
  6. manbeer

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Ughh....i just got my car back from the stealer today and went straight to a friends house and worked on cars for 8 hours. I'm tired and grumpy, and i am starting to realize that i'm tired and grumpy like 90% of the time. I'm just rarely ever in a good mood these days. On top of that, i turn 25 in a few weeks and i am starting to realize that i'm getting older, and have accomplished much less at this point then i had hoped to. It's tough to tell whether it was underacheivement or overly ambitious goals. Anyway i guess i'm just ranting cause i am a little frustrated, and sometimes it's comes out easier when talking to people that you don't personally know
  7. manbeer

    I want to BUY a new sub : SSA Icon 15

    I've been really happy with all the Power series amp offerings. With the reasonably priced refurbs floating around they are probably some of the best bang for the buck amps you will find. The subs aren't BAD, but definitely not worth the money. Still better than a lot of the commercial offerings though.
  8. manbeer

    Cutting plexiglass

    congratulations, you just scored yourself a few hundred dollars worth of plexi for free!
  9. manbeer

    Spring Cleaning X series 12's!

    very good deal
  10. manbeer

    350z

    And all the infiniti/nissan guys do is talk about "japanese reliability" and how german cars have "electrical problems" Well, i'd rather have a window that doesn't roll down or a seat that doesn't heat up than a car that doesn't get me where i need to go! I think japanese cars are good if you drive like a grandma, 10k miles a year, and never go above 4k rpm. If you like to drive hard, they don't hold up too well...the german cars LOVE to be pushed hard.
  11. manbeer

    soundstream splx

    They get very loud in medium sized ported enclosure of a moderate amount of power. Sound is decent for what it is, they don't seem to dig real, real low but that could also be a result of the setup i heard. If you're primary goal is a loud daily system, they are a pretty good choice
  12. manbeer

    350z

    Thanks, unfortunately i think my car is the biggest piece of garbage. It rides like crap, handles like crap, squeaks and rattles like a hooptie and is always breaking down. In fact, i can not give you measurements because it is at the dealer right now, after breaking down on me AGAIN. all it is good for is looking nice standing still. i will avoid nissan products like a case of gonorrhea from now on. Do yourself a favor and go german. 3 series handle better but still absorb the bumps better, are made better and of better materials, and hold up to hard driving better. I will be going BMW or Porsche next...and this is coming from a moderator on a G35 board
  13. manbeer

    everyone read leave opinion

    You guys should see what i deal with on a day to day basis being a mod on the G35 forums...now that they have fallen into the price range where "certain" people can afford them If i see one more "what size spacer to fit G37 wheels on a G35" thread i swear i might shoot myself. You thing the sub vs sub threads are bad, this is simple math...X offset - Y offset = the spacer you need. duh
  14. manbeer

    I want to BUY a new sub : SSA Icon 15

    If it means anything, the DCON 12 beats my T2 10, on 1/4 the power
  15. I think he is referring to the T3002 from those specs. If thats the case, and he is running it at 1 ohm or 2 ohm bridged, it'll be more like 800 class AB watts. That being said, i did the same amp in 2 ohm bridged for a customer with another G35, 4 gauge wiring, stock everything, no big three...voltage fell to 12.9ish. G35 has 110 amp alternator You should be fine, if anything spend the money on some 0 gauge and ring terminals and do the big 3
  16. manbeer

    Single 12 xcon + BJ fisher box

    is that...MONNNNNNNNNSTER cable?
  17. manbeer

    dissapointed in my score..

    That doesn't seem to be much port area... it's like 50 square inches on a box thats probably (or should be) 5-6 cubes or more. I would go at least 80 square inches.
  18. That trunk went yesterday, i have something new in store for when the dealer fixes my car. Final specs 1.9 cubes after woofer/port displacement, 30hz, 36.5 square inches of port area
  19. manbeer

    12" Dcon common chamber flared port

    sweet! gonna get it on the TL?
  20. I'm excited, now i can't wait to get the car back. Hopefully it's something simple they can fix tomorrow or i can at least get a loaner. it's funny how i made a complete 180 since first signing up here almost a year ago. at first i was trying to figure out how i could get the most bass and maximize the amount of volume in the given space. I was looking at 2 12" or 3 10" icons and an SAZ-1500 or 3k even to run them. The components were less important to me so i figured i would get a set of focal K2p or something popular and well regarded and be done with it Now, i love the idea of a lower powered substage, everyone got me sold on going active, and i just want to pile on the power up front for the extra headroom. I find it ironic that initially i was going for 1500+ watts to the subs and maybe 300-400 up front, now i'm going for 1500 watts up front and 4 or 500 to the single DCON, which i am more than happy with
  21. I was initially going to run the Peerless SLS's to start out with but since i am limited on area for midrange and they are currently not in the best locations i decided to go with a dome for the off axis response and sealed chamber. That will be either the Dayton RS52, or the MB-Q 95-6814 (2" Ti dome) until i can afford the Dyn MD140 Anyway i have heard a few people say that they don't really play low enough/the SLS won't play WELL high enough, i was looking into the Dayton RS225 8" mids. They seem to be very nice and since i am constantly ordering from parts express, its the easy and cheap solution A member on another forum has a mint set of DLS Ultimate Iridiums for 175 though, so it would only be like 50-60 dollars more for those. My doors are already cut to those exact dimensions so it would save me a bit of work too. Any thoughts on this? I kind of like the fact that the Daytons have the phase plug, but on the other hand i doubt that it will really make a big difference in this application. They have to play from approx. 45hz - 700 hz. I am not 100% decided on power but probably will be running on 2 channels of a Xenon 200.4, and possibly bridged from the same amp once i find a dedicated subwoofer amp Thanks in advance
  22. 1st teaser photo. Car broke down yesterday and is at the dealer. I just removed the sub from the sealed box when it was being towed and will be working on a ported box this week
  23. manbeer

    FIQ 10 or 12 ?

    Go for a D1, series wired for 2 ohm load. should be nice, let me know how you like the amp...i am a huge fan of old SS but too much of a sissy to take the plunge on the new ones until i see some results
  24. manbeer

    FIQ 10 or 12 ?

    Dual means that there are 2 voice coils. A dual 1 ohm driver can either be wired in series for a 2 ohm final load, or in parallel for a .5 ohm final load. Similarly, a dual 2 ohm driver can either be wired in series for a 4 ohm load or in parallel for a 1 ohm load. You can also run just one voice coil, with the expense of losing 50% of the power handling capability Selecting the proper VC configuration really depends on what amp you want to run the sub with. Are you saying that the amp you are looking at makes 500 RMS at a 1 OR 2 ohm load? In that case, go with a D1 and series wire it, since the amp will likely put less of a strain on the electrical system at higher impedances. What amp is it that you are considering?
  25. manbeer

    Welcome to the IHoP

    '00 SE. it was on its 3rd tranny within 2 years/40k miles
×