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airycsillest916

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Posts posted by airycsillest916

  1. Posted

    And for future reference a sub that can be bottomed out by pushing it by hand, on a large output sub, would be covered under warranty.  Unless there is evidence the sub was unloaded and the joint came apart.  But it would take a ton of bottoming out to break the glue joint.

     

    A suspension should not loosen drastically after it is broken in. 

    I just checked the coil and both sides are reading out at exactly 2ohm so the  coil seems to be fine. when the sub was warm i could easily bottom it out by hand and even now after i took it out of the box and its been sitting on my counter i can still get it to bottom out. this shit is so frustrating!

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  3. Posted

     

    ill see what i can get out of it.

     

     

    i figured id hear that lol. well i was planning on doing a complete rebuild on my car; trunk wall, new amp, new speakers, upgraded electrical so if anything this will motivate me to get on it.

    wasn't you thinking about going with the ethos?I thought I read that somewhere
    and yeah i wanted to but didnt have the money at the time.
    he has lay-a-way

     

    imma have to look into that. they seem like bad ass subs. wish i would have been less impatient and just waited to get one. live and learn though.

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  4. Posted

    ill see what i can get out of it.

     

     

    i figured id hear that lol. well i was planning on doing a complete rebuild on my car; trunk wall, new amp, new speakers, upgraded electrical so if anything this will motivate me to get on it.

    wasn't you thinking about going with the ethos?I thought I read that somewhere

     

    and yeah i wanted to but didnt have the money at the time. 

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  7. Posted

     

    Def going to do that once i get my system up and running again. I hope that there is some kind of warranty on my woofer.

     

    speakers are stupid, it tried to do what you told it to but you told it kill itself. buy a recone, set the amp up correctly, and learn to use your ears and nose to tell when the sub is being pushed too hard. 

     

    yeah guess its time to recone. its going to be my first time doing it but it doesnt seem too hard. would upgrading to level 4 soft parts or maybe a psi recone be helpful with stiffer suspension?

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  14. Posted

    So after having my sub for 3 weeks the suspension is gone on it angry2.gif . It is a DC Audio Level 3, i had it in a 3.4ft^3 box tuned to 32HZ running less than rated clean power to it (used a DD1). It never over heated to the point I could smell the coil but today it started bottoming out and i took it out of the box and could bottom it out with one finger. Did i do something wrong or was this a manufacturer error? 

    post-53622-0-57104600-1395545894_thumb.j

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  15. Posted

    Ill try to get some measurements tonight or tomorrow if its too dark. i was planning on doing a trunk wall and sealing it all off. I always have my seats down when im beating if not my rear deck lid goes insane.

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  17. Posted

    You will get the most of your sub when you fire it and the port towards the rear in most CAR applications...this way you don't get "port noise" from the air, let's the sound waves reverb off of the rear of the car then the dash/windshield before it hits your ears and it gives the listener more of a physical experience, IMO.  There are videos on you tube about how to get the most, measured, spl out of your setup when positioning your enclosure.  You would gain spl by facing the sub and port to the stern smile.png I know that for sure(in a car). 

    That seems to be the common consensus when it comes to trunk builds. My buddy had his set up firing into the cabin with the trunk completely sealed off and i just loved the amount of air it generated so that was what i was going for but seems like the build might be a pain in the ass if it doesnt work out right.

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  18. Posted

    Until the last couple of weekends, I've only seen PSI built subs mainly in SPL competition.

    Well, except for the couple of times that I got my brains mashed in by Dangrebel's 4 18s setup ...

    And like I said, positive results every time. Say what you want about the company or the owner(s), but they build some very nice drivers for the SPL competition world.

    The other day I built an enclosure for a PSI built IA Flatline ported and tuned to 36 htz powered by a Linear Power 2202 amplifier for a friend of mine. This guy likes to be loud on music with no care for a meter reading.

    Large enclosure for a Mini Van on about 550 watts of Class A/B power.

    amps1.jpg

    I must say that after listening to all kinds of music from the Eagles / Sheffield Labs to Skrillix / Slowed and Screwed (his music, Not mine), My thoughts on a "musical" PSI built IA 15" Flatline driver ... Not bad at all guys !!!

    Really impressive !!! He's in the process of buying a better headunit with EQ and Time Alignment so as soon as I can get a few pics and vids up, I will because when I first saw this driver, I automatically thought about this thread.

    We are hoping to get this vehicle out to a few events this year and get some demos going. So if you are anywhere near the Ms / Tn / La area ... Please swing by a few events and check out this ride !!!

    Thanks SSA

    Randal

    That seems bad ass man. I got a chance to hear 2 15" BL's with PSI soft parts and they sounded awesome. If/When my sub needs a recone im most likely going to go with PSI.

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  19. Posted

    I'm thinking about building a new box for my 15" DC level 3. My current box is slot ported to the back with the sub firing up towards the trunk lid, 3.3^ft tuned to 32 hz. I was thinking about building a box firing into the cab (BMW 330CI). Im not too experienced with building boxes but think i can manage this. Has anyone here done this kind of box before and can give me any pointers?

     

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  20. Posted

    Seems like im kinda late to the party but my advice would be since youve already invested a good amount of money into the system get a DD1 to set your gains properly and ether build a good box or find someone to build one for you and ditch that prefab box. Another thing is when i first installed a system into my current car i used the stock HU and a RCA converter. After about 2 months or so i decided to get a Pioneer HU so i could run a USB drive. It made my sub WAY more clear and loud. Just a little food for thought.

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  22. Posted

    Man i had a 18" AQ HDC3 a few years back. Banged hard on mid and high bass but died off on the lows. My buddy just picked up 3 12" HDS300 and put them in his Ram inverted port up (dont know the exact dimentions of the box but i think it was tuned around 33hz) moves crazy air and sounds great for fairly cheap subs.

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