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Posts posted by THX_Elite

  1. Ahhh Maann, I'm sorry to hear about the sharp decline in his business practices.  I noticed recently as well that he has sharply increased prices.  Not good.  

    I have no experience with the products but I do with personal communication with these companies on Facebook:

    Acoustical Designs Inc. <my favorite.  They are very communicative and accommodating...Prices are hard to beat on any box plan you bring to them and shipping is reasonable for sure.


    Sound Mekanix Customs

  2. Thanks Aaron!

    and Thank you as well ///M5 for your helpful input!

    I understand that power supply and maintaining voltage is paramount.

    In preparation for this (and to see if my upgraded 162amp alt can hang, OR not) I first chose to buy the best AGM31 battery that I could afford for the back of my ride from an audio supplier that has extremely close ties with North Star and is based within 10-20 mins from North Star's manufacturing location in Minnesota!  If I find that I still can't keep my voltage up...I will upgrade my alt (again) lol.  
    In any case I'm excited to finally be rid of my little Hifonics amp and to finally own a real amp that is capable of real power.
    EDIT: it is a competitor whom I talk with who brought up box rise among other things i've never thought about, (I'm just a daily dynamic ground pounder)  it's cool though, I like to learn ;) as long as the information is correct! 

  3. The Fi BTL NEO that I ordered has a 2ohm Re rating of 1.8 so wiring in parallel i should be at .9ish ohms before possible box rise and any damping factors.  I bought the AA 3800.1D and just purchased a North Star AGM31 for the back.  I know my box is built to spec, tuned at 32hz, braced like a champ and stiff as humanly possible...here is my question/concern...

    I just want to understand as much as i can without getting overly technical on ohm's and voltage vs impedance and it's variance...As a daily listener I'm just looking more about what power I will be feeding this sub while wired to "1" ohm around 13.5v...I just hope I don't fall into some 3 ohm situation after all is factored in where I would be feeding the 2500rms sub a measly 1k or something like that

    Ampere Audio's website specs for the AA 3800 1.D specs at 12.8v

    • Power 12.8 VDC – 1 ohm: 3,500W RMS.
    • Power 12.8 VDC – 2 ohm: 1,800W RMS.
    • Power 12.8 VDC – 4 ohm: 900W RMS.

      SSA's website specs for the AA3800 1.D specs at 14.4v
    • Power 14.4 VDC - 1 ohm: 3,800W RMS
    • Power 14.4 VDC - 2 ohm: 2,000W RMS
    • Power 14.4 VDC - 4 ohm: 750W RMS

      The main reason I ask is because I will have spent over 2,000 dollars in trying to achieve 1k more RMS and definately more output.  
      And secondly, I want to make sure I get the best performance out of my new upgrades

      ...Should I forget about all the numbers where as I am only a daily listener and not a competitor?  And even more so, can I reasonably expect that I will have a significant increase in output going from a 1500rms Fi BL 12" running on a 1600rms Hifonics amp to a 2500rms Fi BTL NEO runnin on a 3800rms Ampere Audio? 

  4. I run 2600 watts.  I did the big 3 upgrade: 0g wiring, very nice battery under the hood with upgraded 0g power AND grounds to chassis and motor, and a new 163 amp alternator (my stock one was 60amps, lol) and I'm staying very close, if not at 14v at full load.  The alternator amperage output is essential!!  See what your alternator specs are to determine if you need a new one with more output.

  5. It's important to know that the ZRX (Zues) line of amps are "Max Rated" not "RMS" rated which is very misleading...The BRX (Brutus) line however, IS "RMS" rated.  So your ZRX2400.1D will only be around 1200 RMS or LESS.  I just upgraded my ZRX1000.4 to a BRX1200.4 a couple weeks ago for this very reason.  I bought my 4ch ZRX a long time ago not realizing this fact, and wouldn't want to see anyone make the same mistake :) So having said this...if anyone wants to run 2400 RMS using Hifonics amps get the BRX2400.1D not the ZRX!!  I currently am running the BRX1600.D and am actually upgrading to this exact amp in the near future to give my 1500 watt Fi BL more head room.  CHEERS!


    Edit: didn't realize this was such an old thread brought back to life...still though, I believe this to be useful information for those who are looking to Hifonics to power their system.


  6. On 4/4/2016 at 3:17 PM, Florida_Audio said:

    be aware the zues amps are not rated in RMS

    i made this mistake. it should still output some decent wattage. but not 1800 RMS

    Good point and a little known one!  I wanted to add also that while the Zues amps are rated by max wattage the Brutus series amps are, in fact, rated by RMS...but back to topic...

    Your amp is asking for 4 gauge because its only running around 900 or less watts.

  7. 13 hours ago, Florida_Audio said:

    and you said to make sure im happy with what i choose. i mean i hope i am. its really hard, if not impossible to really pick out speakers without listening to them? just by reading other peoples reviews of the speakers and what they like or dislike is all im really able to do? and look at the frequency range. not much else to make sure i would like them?

    this is very true...the best you can do is listen to speakers installed already such as a friends setups.  Next to that all you can do is go to a local stereo shop and listen to them while their in a display.  I am positive you would be happy with the amp I last suggested because of long lasting quality at a low price, as for speakers...? it's all up to you my friend as hearing is subjective.  

    EDIT: As for speaker baffles that is why I hesitated on answering that question.

  8. they can it just depends on how the speakers fit and whats already installed in your doors.  I used mdf rings on my doors only so that the speakers would fit without getting in the way of the window when it rolls down.  ...there are (speaker risers/rings) and then there are baffles (speaker "cups" so to speak) like say...these http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22349_The-Install-Bay-VXT62.html.  And you are right they can help a bit with sound especially when not using or using very little sound deadening.


    P.S. It will turn out fine especially with professional help.  Just make sure your happy with the electronics you choose

  9. the professional installer you choose will mount the speakers and provide spacers or baffles if needed.  Sound deadening is great but you are only installing some 6.5 components. That being said you don't need much sound deadening to begin with.  look at the sound deadening thread in this forum for more information on that, but your not needing much at all.  I recommend you let them do the whole install...HU, Amp and it's settings, door speakers and a little sound deadening. 

    I have helped as much as I think I can.  

    The rest is up to your budget, your taste and your local installer.  The amp I recommended will do a great job for you at a great price.  You picked your HU, and Components you like, now order it all and take it to your local installer!  LOL

    ...don't forget the Amp wiring kit also available on the same website I have directed to you for affordable pricing.

  10. Yes those speakers are 4ohms..you don't set an amp's ohms, it reads the speakers ohms automatically.  Just plug them in and they will play...you would install your HU turn it up to a good non distorting level and adjust the amp to levels that do not distort your speakers.  

    As for professional install: if that is in your budget, yes get baffles if you think you want them, and as much sound deadening as you can afford behind them.

  11. :)  you are a tad confused.  the Alpine SPR-60C's that you are wanting have these specs:

     RMS: 220 watts per set / 110 watts each side...that is taken from the link you put up.  Those specs mean that your front left and front right speakers will want 110 watts EACH for ideal operation.  The amp I mentioned (the one I have and like) just above ^ has these RMS stats:

     4 ohms: 125 watts x 4-Chan. 
    • 2 ohms: 250 watts x 4-Chan. 

    This means that at 4ohms that amp will provide +/- 25 watts more than those speakers are wanting for their rated RMS wattage. Or at 2ohms...you have over twice the power you would need to run these specific type R's. 

    what all this means is...that amp and those speakers will pair up just great.  

    As for sound deadening or speaker baffles...just buy your electronics get them running.  If you don't like to read...get local help ESPECIALLY with amp settings and go from there.

  12. 18 hours ago, Florida_Audio said:
    So the 110 RMS max at 4 ohms is more likely running around 60 watts? 110-50=60?
    and the amp says this: "RMS Power @ 4 ohms 75 watts x 4 channels"
    but it also says: "
    Bridged Peak/Max Power 300 watts x 2 channels". so if im running only 2 speakers for now, do i have to bridge it to run the amp? or can i just leave 2 channels left unconnected? will it still use 300 watts possibly? and damage the speakers cause double the power?

    This is the exact 4ch amp I used for a long time and still actually have.  It will solve your concerns about the RMS ratings to power your choice of components, if it's still in your budget. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html

    If a set of components says it runs 110 watts MAX that means you can expect no more than half of that wattage during normal and constant use.  RMS ratings are there to show how many watts amps/speakers will actually be running/using.  

    It's the same with amp ratings. If an amp says it runs 5 million watts "MAX", it really will only be running 2 and 1/2 million watts or less the majority of the time.  Cheap amps and speakers list there "MAX" ratings to make the amp or speaker seem powerful to users who don't understand RMS ratings.

    -it's good to have extra power, you don't have to use it all...it will not damage your speakers if you dial the amp down to the wattage the speaker needs which will actually provide a cleaner signal.  You have much learning ahead of you!  Most of it should be through reading. 

  13. 3 sets of preamp outputs has front left and right, rear left and right and sub left and right.  the 4ch amp has front left and right and rear left and right inputs.  that will run your all 4 doors

    about the option for sub or mono sub output.  Choose the standard "sub output", that will give you left and right bass signals into the same sub

    so you will see on the back of the HU "6" rca outputs thats what you want.