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THX_Elite

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Posts posted by THX_Elite

  2. Posted

     

     

     

     

     

    No problem! Here is the specific wiring you need for your sub to lesson any confusion!http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1-DVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg

    Thanks again, THX! That will come in handy as soon as I have the courage to open up the sub. xD
    Its not that hard. Just need to unscrew all the screws around the sub and take it out of the enclosure. And take some pictures of the sub and inside the enclosure if you can
    Why does he need to take the sub out of the box?
    Well if it reads 1 ohm outside of the box it could be a dual 2 ran to 1 or could be a dual 1 with only one coil hooked up or something like that. You never

    know lol. And with the sub out we will be able to see port length and how well the enclosure was even built

     

    Or it might be the way the amp is tuned.

     

    If I read that thread right. He said the box said dual 1 coils. Who ordered the sub?

     

    That is true...I think in all this advice we have forgetten to mention that the amp's Level/Gain knob needs to match your H/U's output voltage!!!

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  3. Posted

     

    I  appreciate all of your responses! (i will be doing the big 3, dampening, etc)... lets c if i understand what you guys are trying to tell me tho! just go with the 2 6.5 in the front doors? will a great pr of 6x9 (dls, jbl, polks, ba) in the rear deck along with the 6.5 enhance or hinder the sound? I am very big on the mid sounds as u can tell! one of my biggest goals is to be able to hear every note n instrument in a song like jesse had mentioned, throughout the various types of music I listen to, whether being played @ low and high volumes! it is a lil hard for me to understand that only 2 fronts can fill the entire cabin area n keep up with the 2 ASTOUNDING 12's!! i know i bn out of the game for a good minute! lol!! also i hv no clue as how to match subs/comps to amps? 1 or 2 sub amps? ohms? what options to add onto the subs? and all of that stuff! tried the local audio shops to find out they are more into satisfying what these guys crave more of---a bunch of rattle n bang! 15's, a huge cheap amp n factory speakers! no clarity what so ever! lol!! so i decided to research some forums, and after reading many of u guys comments, i found YOU ALL to be very knowledgeable and im sure i will be pointed in the right direction..I love listening to good music at all volumes, CLEARLY with GOOD BANG is my thing! so please fellas chime in heavily on this! help me piece this thing together! im ready to pull the trigger on my purchases and get it to the shop where i ONLY trust them to build my box n install LOL!!!!

     

    jesus, try some paragraphs. 

     

    Stick with one set of 6.5 components upfront. 6x9s or whatever are fine too buy have no real advantages. 6.5s are probably easier to install in most cars. 

     

    Anything installed in the rear deck or rear doors is a waste of money. better to spend that on the front comps/install/deadening. 

     

    I personally prefer some 6x9's in the rear deck of my car I decided, without them...at least in my Mazda Millinia the sound image is just to black and white, with no blend...it's all in what you think sounds better and also in what Alton advises about quality instalation with dampening.

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  4. Posted

    Order #3855 is my order number I hope I recieve an update in status shortly! I placed my order on the 4th of March exactly 7 days ago.  I am beyond excited....got the perfect box for it on the way, and also a Maniac Electric Motors 180amp alternator(double my current stock alternator).  And have run out of things to do to prepare after perfecting my wiring!  ugggh patience is truely a hard core practice.

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  5. Posted

    Nice car! Your sub for sure is not moving to it's potential, However it sounds good, so we know the sub is not the problem.  First thing to do your self is unscrew the sub from the box and verify what ohms your voice coils are, take out your DMM look at it's book and it will tell you where to set the knob for reading ohms, simply touch both positive and negative terminals with the prongs/or clips from DMM on one lead at a time     ( where the wires clamp into each side of the woofer ) and write the reading down to post here.  Then on your Head Unit make sure that ALL sub settings are set to ZERO with no bass boost (make sure your sub level is not like negative 16 or something crazy in your settings), ALSO if your H/U has a setting for the size of woofer it is working with, make sure it is set at "10" Next I would take the car into the shop with the install reciept and make sure they did not use the pre existing amp that is in your car but instead to run directly from your H/U to your new amp...I am positive these things will help you...If in fact a mistake was made and you got a dual 1 ohm sub, you could wire it to 2ohms (dont think your amp will handle a .5ohm load) untill you get another dual 1ohm sub so you can run at 1ohm.  Don't let this overwhelm you!  ...One simple step at a time :)

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  6. Posted

     

    These are horror stories as I wait for my highly anticipated Fi BL 12", that I ordered 6 days ago. But I know with out a doubt my power will be ample, my enclosure will be to spec down to centimeters : ) and ALL my amp settings especially SSF will be set properly and set ONLY by my own hand, as I trust no other!

    Down to the centimeter... Someone likes living life on the edge.... Lol

     

    Well...lol, It's a great box built by Fatbox USA and is spec built for the BTL 12 "but the BL 12" calls for specs that fall right into that same box,  I did not use the cut sheet for the 12" BL and get that precise :) but this enclosure will be perfect at 2.5 cubes AFTER sub, brace and port values, and also tuned right at 32hz..I am sooo excited to upgrade out of my prefab box with my T1 in it.

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  7. Posted

    These are horror stories as I wait for my highly anticipated Fi BL 12", that I ordered 6 days ago.   But I know with out a doubt my power will be ample, my enclosure will be to spec down to centimeters : ) and ALL my amp settings especially SSF will be set properly and set ONLY by my own hand, as I trust no other!

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  10. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

    if you have a Harbor Freight they have great multi meters at great prices also, and yes they are really simple to use, specially after a quick glance at the pamphlet that comes with them.    Changing the ohm load is as simple as could be, no disassembly required.  Here is a link to a good wiring diagram just in case you find that is part of the issue, which sounds likely.  http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1-DVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg

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  11. Posted · Edited by THX_Elite

    Almost all of these issues I've read is why I can't and won't support my local audio shops....seems like they must all be the same.  Over charging man hours only to wire things completely wrong, build boxes cheaply, massively screw up H/U paramaters and Amp tuning...etc.   I can't even stand to call them for advice knowing they are wrong most of the time...Too many times have I had to fix their mistakes from installs in friends vehicles, and a couple in my own, so I went ROUGE...LOL  They don't like me now, they tell me my brand of OFC cables are inferior, Hifonics amps suck, and that they have never heard of Fi Audio, just to quote a few...LMAO 

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  13. Posted

    ^ good post ^  I am currently seeking places in the front of my car that will be a good fabrication point for either the 6x9's I have been using in the rear deck(unsure if I like the sound scape in this config) or getting a second pair of matching components for the front and not use the rear of the car for mids...When my front doors were sound dampened the difference in SQ blew my mind!

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  14. Posted

    I won't mention any specific brands here as that is all up to per listener opinion.  I will say one thing though, especially for sound quality, that a good set of 6.5" components up front makes a huge difference in setting up a quality front sound stage. Components allow you to get the quality sound and separation out of the super high range, ie. cymbals, high hats, synths, and all kinds of others especially found in House/Techno/ and the other styles of music you mentioned.  As for rear door speakers, it's all in preference.  Just think... (When your at a live performance watching the show, you don't hear the performers voice and instruments behind you).  Point is, you will not find that "fantastic quality set up" the first time...you will constantly find things you want to change, as do we all.

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  16. Posted

    Custom enclosure for the Fi will be here by the end of the week!  Ordering the Fi BL in a couple days....Damn I'm anxious, lol...  I can barely pull my eyes off the forum, bahahah!  Sure hope everything goes smoothly! 

    Other than my 90 amp alternator, I have prepared everything flawlessly for this upcoming excitement! 

     

    ~I hope the 90 amp alty can handle this upgrade, since it's in a Mazda Millinia and is mounted half way under the engine and would require a ton of mechanic work and money to get it out and upgrade.  But it has been powering my 800rms T1 in a way to small enclosure at 1600watts and 1ohm at max volume for at least 6 months now, with out issue. HOPEFULL!!

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  17. Posted

    I did a lot of measuring and eyeballing and getting my mechanic step dad and others' opinions...and thinking it over for DAAYYYSS...lol, I'm pretty sure it will fit, I noticed a big trim piece in the trunk I can easily take off to slide the box in if I have to.  I have extreme anxiety so I tend to over think and over evaluate things easily...uggh.

     

    So anyway I just decided to pull the trigger on the order and box fabrication is starting this evening!  I don't mind paying the money, (a lot)... It is a killer enclosure from Fatbox USA made for the Fi BTL but it fit's the BL's specs nicely, check it out, I'll soon be ready for my BL!!!!

    http://www.fatboxusa.com/products/1-mdf-12-fi-audio-btl-subwoofer-sub-enclosure-box.html

     

    What do you guys think?...will my mind be blown by the difference in the new setup compared to my Fosgate T1 in a box that is only 1.5 cubic and 40hz lol?

     

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  18. Posted

    Thanks all!  ya I need to get a thin sheet of ply wood to make a "mock box" with the same dimensions as the box I want before I order it,(it's $100 for shipping)on top of the $269 for the well made enclosure, can't afford to make a mistake there!  slayer.gif

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  22. Posted

      I have done months and months of research and years of trials in car audio installs and have become intermediate in my knowledge.

    I am Interested in putting more muscle in the trunk of my 95 Mazda Millinia.

     

    My setup includes:

    A stock 90 amp alternator connected with premium 0/1 gauge to my

    Oddesy 65-PC1750 Battery that is also grounded with the same gauge.

    A Kenwood Excellon KDC X493 head unit with true 4v pre amps

    A Hifonics Zeus ZRX1000.4 amp powering

    Kenwood Excellon XR-1800P Components in the front and

    Kenwood Excellon KFC-X693 6x9's in the back.

    In the trunk:

    175 farad "BatCap" and a 1 farad SWX capacitor

    A Hifonics Brutus BRX1600.1D amp for the trunk powering

    a Rockford Fosgate T1D212 in an OLD pre-fab box that is completly wrong for the sub.

    All of my wire is 0/1 gauge of OFC wiring

     

      I am very excited now since I found Fi a few months ago and started reaserching their woofers, and am eye-balling the BL 12" Dual 2

    for Daily Driver.  I also have researched and found a good box built to spec from Fatbox USA(I don't have the tools), and am in the process of verifying that it will fit thru my trunk opening, if it does it will be a perfect match.

     

    I look forward to chatting with and learning from everyone, and possibly helping where I can! 

    Thanks for Having me!

     

    ~THX_Elite

     

     

     

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