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iputon326

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Posts posted by iputon326


  1. You described it as having a small looking port. Hearing this I'm guessing you bought a pre-fab box? If so, there's your problem :D

    nope made it myself, got the design from a friend who builds them a lot

    its better on mids to lows, but not 'high' bass notes

    well the box is probably tuned lower if its not picking up the highs.

    that could be your problem.


  2. It's in a ported 20x20x15 box...upfiring with port on the front

    whats it tuned to?

    x2 and what is the measurement of the port? Is you sub a dual 2ohm wired like this:

    1_2ohm_dvc_1ohm.gif.

    oh and it is wired like that

    the port is a strange design and looks small (hard to explain) but sounds amazing with the right music

    so you dont know what its tuned to?

    does it play better on the lows or highs?


  3. Definitely look into the BP option as well.

    That option is not listed... I've heard of it though, but I think it might be standard with the BL? I know you can order it for the Qs...

    just order it fully loaded if you plan on putting over 1000 watts.


  4. lol.... welcome to life.... it doesn't get any easier from here on out....

    oil ya say? that can't be good.... u sure u haven't been bangin' that thing around through the fields?? hehehe just kiddin'... I'm still in it for the finish, still real interested in what's wrong with it.... Good Luck Bud....

    And yeah..... from indiana too, about an hour south of Terre Haute....

    lol well last year my buddy had a badass truck on 38.5s and he was muddin.

    then he told me to go through his ruts. lol yea rite. i got stuck rite away.

    i think your rite about the wheel bearing though. the more i think about it the more it makes sense.

    i think i was just hoping it was the ball joints.


  5. The Btl won't handle 4600W RMS (mechanickly?)in a 8 cu ft box.Probably in a 5.5 or 6 cu ft box, but you wouldn't go larger then 6cu ft net.

    THANK YOU! lol

    That's the answer I was looking for. Alright, I would use that 6cu ft than.

    Would I be able to keep the port 32hz? or do I have to make some changes there 2?

    Or could I build say a 7cu ft, and than brace the whole inside to love the cu ft after displacement?

    this is what i said before. when the box is bigger the power handling goes down.

    nobody can tell you if its going to take 4600 or not. this is for you to find out.

    when you hook it all up and start playing it check for it to get hot and see if you can smell coil.

    if you can back the gains down. if you cant then it can handle it.

    ohhh yeah I see what you mean.

    Well what box size do you recommend for me with all this power? I am a daily driver.

    well fi recommends 5-10 cubes. id say go with about 6 cubes. give or take some.

    you'll have more chance of it taking 4600 with a smaller box.

    alright. thanks a lot bro.

    np man. sorry if i sounded like a dick at all. i wasnt tryin to.


  6. The Btl won't handle 4600W RMS (mechanickly?)in a 8 cu ft box.Probably in a 5.5 or 6 cu ft box, but you wouldn't go larger then 6cu ft net.

    THANK YOU! lol

    That's the answer I was looking for. Alright, I would use that 6cu ft than.

    Would I be able to keep the port 32hz? or do I have to make some changes there 2?

    Or could I build say a 7cu ft, and than brace the whole inside to love the cu ft after displacement?

    this is what i said before. when the box is bigger the power handling goes down.

    nobody can tell you if its going to take 4600 or not. this is for you to find out.

    when you hook it all up and start playing it check for it to get hot and see if you can smell coil.

    if you can back the gains down. if you cant then it can handle it.

    ohhh yeah I see what you mean.

    Well what box size do you recommend for me with all this power? I am a daily driver.

    well fi recommends 5-10 cubes. id say go with about 6 cubes. give or take some.

    you'll have more chance of it taking 4600 with a smaller box.


  7. Well it so happens my wife wants some bass in her 06 Mercury Mariner SUV. We wanted something that sounds very good without having to add to much to the vehicle. We also don't want a huge box either and save some trunk space. She always finds a way to put her entire closet in the back of this thing.

    I was thinking of a FI SSD 12". I really have no idea what would be a decent cost effective amp for this sub. Also I was wondering if I could use the existing battery from the car to handle the amp and 12" SSD.

    Any recommended thoughts would be great!

    Something like an ssd 10 in a small ported box or sealed.....???? wait first what kind of music do you like to lessen to? and if you go with a 600 watt amp your stock Electrical should be fine I thnk your car has a 130 amp alt in it, and if she isn't into loud music you could get a smaller amp 300-500 watts

    She is very diverse in her music collection. Rap to Rock to Country. I just want it to where if she decides to play loud, she will look at me and say "SWEEEEET"

    well you can get a nice 600 watt amp and if its to loud for her back the gains down.

    if you do this you get more headroom.


  8. The Btl won't handle 4600W RMS (mechanickly?)in a 8 cu ft box.Probably in a 5.5 or 6 cu ft box, but you wouldn't go larger then 6cu ft net.

    THANK YOU! lol

    That's the answer I was looking for. Alright, I would use that 6cu ft than.

    Would I be able to keep the port 32hz? or do I have to make some changes there 2?

    Or could I build say a 7cu ft, and than brace the whole inside to love the cu ft after displacement?

    this is what i said before. when the box is bigger the power handling goes down.

    nobody can tell you if its going to take 4600 or not. this is for you to find out.

    when you hook it all up and start playing it check for it to get hot and see if you can smell coil.

    if you can, back the gains down. if you cant, then it can handle it.


  9. you'd be surprised how far people drive them making noises like that, BUT i'm glad to hear you aren't..... what u need is a good friend who's a fair mechanic to look at it.... too bad ur up near INDY, if you was closer I'd come take a look at it for ya.....

    oh damn lol i didnt even notice u were from indiana.

    my friends dad is coming over tonight to look at it.

    he let me borrow some of his stuff lastnite to check stuff out.


  10. Hey kelsey BTW the front end on our jimmys usually go out around 60k. The cv axles are 79 a piece, the ball joints are kinda expensive. For moog it was around 180 for upper and lower on both sides.

    im gona try getin by right now if its the ball joints.

    im gona get the cheaper ones. theyre like 30 a piece at autozone.

    so you still dont know for sure what it is?? I wouldn't buy any parts until I was sure.... usually you check the wheel bearing by grabbing at 6 and 12 and trying to rock the wheel that way, not 3 and 9..... at 3 and 9 any play you feel could be the wheel bearing, but just as easy as it could be a bad tie rod, it won't tell you whether its the ball joint or not though.......

    I'm with you, back and forth play in a wheel while lifted is usually wheel bearing. The way I know to test for ball joints is to lift the wheel off the ground only an inch or two, then stick a bar under the tire and leverage it up. If the ball joint is bad, the tire/rim assembly will lift a bit as you lift up on the bar. If the ball joint is good it won't lift at all.

    this is the way to test these ball joints.... you should be sure or have an actual mechanic look at it before spending money on parts.....

    well the bad thing about taking it to an actual mechanic is theyd try taking advantage.

    i no people that can find out whats wrong with it and can fix it. they just havent had the time to come out yet.

    we had a guy that was suppose to do it but we didnt know him real well and he wanted us to drive it to him when he has a damn tow truck.

    theres no way we can drive it. i dont know how much longer it would last.


  11. Only way your going to abuse the sub is by "clipping" your amplifier by inadequate "electrical" and not setting your gains correctly. Definitely look at doing 2 runs of 1/0 power and ground if your going to be running that much power. The 300 amp alt will help but your going to be needing more than 1 extra battery.

    Yeah that is what my car audio adviser told me. I think I am going to lower the gains asap because I don't want to do anything stupid to my baby lol. I only have stock alt and batt right now, and I have had this setup for about 3 months now and I can start to see the effect it is having on my electrical system. My voltage meter doesnt go back up as fast as it use to after a low note, and my car starts to almost shut off at stop lights. But what you are saying is that, once I complete my upgrade on my electrical system, I will be able to apply 4600w daily to it?

    it just depends. the bigger the box is the lower the power handling is.

    put 4600 to it and see if it takes it. if not back off the gains.

    "if not"- is that after it blows? haha

    lol well hes definitely gona smell some coil if it wont handle it.


  12. Strap your amps to 2 ohm!

    But the amps are rated 2300w rms @ 1 ohm?

    huh ohh, I think there is something I don't understand here huh? lol.

    So your saying strap them to 2 ohm to 1 of the coils?

    What will this do?

    And how much watts would I get out of this setup?

    when you strap them its gona be 2 ohms.

    each amp puts out 2300 at 1 ohm.

    so 1 ohm plus 1 ohm is 2 ohms strapped.


  13. Only way your going to abuse the sub is by "clipping" your amplifier by inadequate "electrical" and not setting your gains correctly. Definitely look at doing 2 runs of 1/0 power and ground if your going to be running that much power. The 300 amp alt will help but your going to be needing more than 1 extra battery.

    Yeah that is what my car audio adviser told me. I think I am going to lower the gains asap because I don't want to do anything stupid to my baby lol. I only have stock alt and batt right now, and I have had this setup for about 3 months now and I can start to see the effect it is having on my electrical system. My voltage meter doesnt go back up as fast as it use to after a low note, and my car starts to almost shut off at stop lights. But what you are saying is that, once I complete my upgrade on my electrical system, I will be able to apply 4600w daily to it?

    it just depends. the bigger the box is the lower the power handling is.

    put 4600 to it and see if it takes it. if not back off the gains.

    ohhhh, ok. I will do. I was kind of comparing myself with that guy with the 01 tahoe with 4 18s lol. It wont let me type his name in. But he has over 5k on each of his now with his new build. And had over 4k to them before that. So I was thinking if he could put that much on them for that long, than I should be ok. Right?

    no one can really tell you how much YOURS can take.

    theres no set limit on what the sub can take. well besides rms but people put way more.

    you just need to check it out for yourself.

    Alright. I guess you do have a point there.

    lol

    I find it funny that Fi doesnt know there peak rating for there sub.

    Well thank you very much for all your info. fing05.gif

    If there is any additional things I should know please let me know lol. Thanks.

    no problem man.

    let us know what happens.


  14. Only way your going to abuse the sub is by "clipping" your amplifier by inadequate "electrical" and not setting your gains correctly. Definitely look at doing 2 runs of 1/0 power and ground if your going to be running that much power. The 300 amp alt will help but your going to be needing more than 1 extra battery.

    Yeah that is what my car audio adviser told me. I think I am going to lower the gains asap because I don't want to do anything stupid to my baby lol. I only have stock alt and batt right now, and I have had this setup for about 3 months now and I can start to see the effect it is having on my electrical system. My voltage meter doesnt go back up as fast as it use to after a low note, and my car starts to almost shut off at stop lights. But what you are saying is that, once I complete my upgrade on my electrical system, I will be able to apply 4600w daily to it?

    it just depends. the bigger the box is the lower the power handling is.

    put 4600 to it and see if it takes it. if not back off the gains.

    ohhhh, ok. I will do. I was kind of comparing myself with that guy with the 01 tahoe with 4 18s lol. It wont let me type his name in. But he has over 5k on each of his now with his new build. And had over 4k to them before that. So I was thinking if he could put that much on them for that long, than I should be ok. Right?

    no one can really tell you how much YOURS can take.

    theres no set limit on what the sub can take. well besides rms but people put way more.

    you just need to check it out for yourself.


  15. Only way your going to abuse the sub is by "clipping" your amplifier by inadequate "electrical" and not setting your gains correctly. Definitely look at doing 2 runs of 1/0 power and ground if your going to be running that much power. The 300 amp alt will help but your going to be needing more than 1 extra battery.

    Yeah that is what my car audio adviser told me. I think I am going to lower the gains asap because I don't want to do anything stupid to my baby lol. I only have stock alt and batt right now, and I have had this setup for about 3 months now and I can start to see the effect it is having on my electrical system. My voltage meter doesnt go back up as fast as it use to after a low note, and my car starts to almost shut off at stop lights. But what you are saying is that, once I complete my upgrade on my electrical system, I will be able to apply 4600w daily to it?

    it just depends. the bigger the box is the lower the power handling is.

    put 4600 to it and see if it takes it. if not back off the gains.

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