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iputon326

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Posts posted by iputon326

  1. Posted

    Hey,

    I'm a noobie with the whole forum thing, and a novice with the whole audio things too, but I have learned a lot since the beginning of the summer. I have a 96' ford explorer 4dr. And my current box is ~6.7cu ft tuned at 32hz. I am powering it with a PA a3000bd at the moment, and it sounds great. But I plan on buying another one soon. And my question is do you guys think that it could handle 4600 watts rms @ 1 ohm? I know that 01 tahoe on 26's lol puts over 5k with his new build, and was putting over 4k with his old system and has been slamming his BTL's since day 1. I know it wont be 4600w exactly since I still have stock batt and alt. But lets assume thats taking care of along with 0gauge wiring and the big 3. I wont hook another amp until I build my new box which I plan on making 8cu ft still at 32hz. Also, if it can handle this much power, should I bridge the amps to one coil, or put each 1 on each coil? Any advice concerning this matter would be GREATLY appreciated!! I am also just a daily driver who loves the bass. I can almost do a full hair trick already with this current system.

    the big 3 and 0 guage wont be enough electrical by far.

    i only have 1500 watts and my volts arent the best.

    i think you need to worry about your electrical before you choose to do anything else.

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  2. Posted · Edited by iputon326

    all the flatwind coil does it help power handling.

    it wont affect sq. it just allows the sub to take more.

    and with the 8 guage your thinkin of terminals. thats what the wire goes into.

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  3. Posted

    i was messing with all the settings on my amp when i first got everything and someone called the cops.

    so i seen him pullin up and i bout shit my pants lol. the cop asked me what i was doing so i told him.

    then he told me to turn it up so he could hear it. he even held a bag up by the port. he was just making sure i wasnt stealing anything because i was by a bunch of constructions equipment.

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  4. Posted · Edited by iputon326

    Hey kelsey BTW the front end on our jimmys usually go out around 60k. The cv axles are 79 a piece, the ball joints are kinda expensive. For moog it was around 180 for upper and lower on both sides.

    im gona try getin by right now if its the ball joints.

    im gona get the cheaper ones. theyre like 30 a piece at autozone.

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  5. Posted

    eh idk i guess ill find out tomorrow.

    if you jack up the car and theres play in the tire then its the ball joint.

    Not necessarily.... When the wheel bearing finally went out on my Jimmy there was over 2" of play that I could move the wheel on.... the worst I've ever seen a wheel bearing before....

    I know for a fact it was the wheel bearing as : 1. I had an alignment done at a local tire dealer right after I purchased it and they said the machine could see play in the wheel. 2. They said that everything else in the front end was tight. 3. The auto dealer I bought the truck from replaced the wheel bearing and everything has been peachy ever since. and 4. I've replaced more than a half-dozen wheel bearings in my short experience and the noise and associated problems from worn out wheel bearings are nearly all the same.....

    That being said, how did you get the idea that "if you jack up the car and there's play in the tire then its the ball joint." anyways just out of idle curiosity??? for that matter a loose wheel could be something as silly as loose lug nuts, and believe me that happens more often than you'd think.... Sorry if I came across sounding like a bit of an ass but I'm looking forward to finding out what is wrong with it..... smile.gif

    I'm with you, back and forth play in a wheel while lifted is usually wheel bearing. The way I know to test for ball joints is to lift the wheel off the ground only an inch or two, then stick a bar under the tire and leverage it up. If the ball joint is bad, the tire/rim assembly will lift a bit as you lift up on the bar. If the ball joint is good it won't lift at all.

    thts what i was talkin about. i was looking around and it said put your hand at 3 and 9 and try to move it. it might have said do that for the wheel bearing. lol my bad.

    i looked up everything i could about the front end and all that so yea i got a little confused.

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  7. Posted

    well my buddy looked at it and he thought it was the ball joint.

    we jacked the car up and grabbed the wheel and it had a lot of play in it.

    we have a guy coming out to look at it tomorrow and fix it for us.

    your ol' pal mikey just redone the whole front end of his jimmy....

    you might have him give it a look.

    chop

    he did it himself?

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  11. Posted

    the btl would be the only one that can handle the 2200.

    the bl and q are rated for 1000 watts.

    you can turn the gain down though. and you sound like you want the q.

    the q has amazing lows and sq. its a beast.

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  14. Posted

    yea tomorrow my buddies coming over with his jack and were gona check everything out.

    hopefully its nothing to expensive because i dont have that much money.

    unfortunately the bearings are around $120 each at Advance, O'Reilly's, NAPA and AutoZone...... I priced 'em before the dealer fixed mine.... But yeah it sounds REAL bad when they go completely out....

    can you explain what yours sounded like?

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  17. Posted

    sounds more like a bearing problem...... i guess it could be the differential but anytime i've heard a differential causing noise like that just changing the fluid wasn't going to do anything to fix it.... both of my van's front wheel bearings went out at almost the exact same time and my Jimmy had one bad when I bought it (the dealer graciously replaced it for me)...... so that would be my guess.... jack it up and grab the front wheel at the top and bottom and try rocking it in and out, if it moves enough to notice it ur wheel bearing is shot.....

    yea tomorrow my buddies coming over with his jack and were gona check everything out.

    hopefully its nothing to expensive because i dont have that much money.

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  20. Posted

    alright so today we were drivin and all the sudden something under the passenger side started clicking.

    you could feel it on your feet. if felt like the tire had a knot in it or something. so we kept driving and we stopped a cvs for about 10 minutes.

    when we left cvs we turned right and then the right side started clanking and grinding. it was loud. so everytime we turned right it started doing this.

    when the brakes were hit it stopped making the noise.

    so we finally got home and let it sit for about an hour and then went to the gas station and now its doing it on both sides. i have no idea what it is.

    im thinking maybe the cv joints or ball joints? i dont really know though. i dont think that would make both sides mess up in less then 2 hours.

    i was on another forum and a guy said the same thing happened to him and he thought it was the cv joints but all he had to do was change the differential fluid.

    your suppose to change it about every 30,000 miles. since ive had my jimmy weve put about 40,000 on it and i dont know how long itd been since itd been change before i got it. so does anybody have any ideas?

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  24. Posted

    2 12" Fi Q subs in sealed separate 1.2 cu ft chambers powered by an AudioQue AQ2200 amp. On the amp I've got to turn the gain and bass boost all the way up and on the head unit the subwoofer and bass levels to the max just to hear the subs. Something is wrong here, and I need some help figuring out what it is.

    I've double checked, redone, and double checked all the wiring, and it is correct. The subs are 1 ohm DVC, and measured at the amp, is exactly a 1 ohm load. The polarity is not reversed anywhere. Tested the DC power at both the battery and the amp to see they are the same. Tested for a ground loop to find none.

    I'm at a loss as to what to look at next.

    it sounds like it might be bad rca's.

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