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CadillacMatt

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Everything posted by CadillacMatt

  1. CadillacMatt

    The Nightshade Caddy

    LOL yeah you are right about that! Okay... well this is where I made one little mistake that could've very well cost me another day's work. I thought it would be a good idea to start off with the fiberglass chopped mat... BAD IDEA. For the flare I used woven mat no problem, but the chopped mat made a huge mess of things and plus it cured with hairs sticking out everywhere... I underestimated the cure time... so I'm going to have to bodywork quite a few voids. Had about 3/4 can of resin, finished two plies and ran out. Stuff was curing quickly anyways. Will take a look at it tomorrow and see how many more layers (if any) it's going to need. I finished up with a ply of 1800 cloth (coarse thick cloth) around the tube. Got paranoid; went ahead and taped the radius. Glassing the radius Oops! Always double-cup when you are using thin plastic cups! Better on the board then on me! Having a grand old time trying to get this stuff to hold. Will know better next time. Ahhhhh prune hands FTL! Second ply Aaaaaand done for now The only thing I'm waiting on is a buddy to lend me his long bar clamps so I can start putting this box together... can't hardly get ahold of him it's frustrating as hell! More soon.
  2. CadillacMatt

    The Nightshade Caddy

    I know she stays right next door OH you mean the project lol While the clay was setting I made a jig for the speaker cutout And got busy with the jigsaw! Masked off the area around the radius for a smoother layup, I cured the clay a little too quickly which caused some cracking but it will be fine. You can use a little water to rewet it and if the cracks are big enough, you can mix some clay slurry, cure, and repeat as needed. At this point I waxed the entire mold with my super duper high tech mold wax... or not, but this Meguiar's carnauba wax will do the trick for sure!
  3. CadillacMatt

    The Nightshade Caddy

    Whew... finally got the radius finished, I changed it three times before I was satisfied with it! Used the edge of a scraper for radius. Now I'm going to let the clay cure a bit before glassing Checking out the scenery in my parking lot lol!
  4. CadillacMatt

    The Nightshade Caddy

    Bonding the tube to the base is the first step to this mold. Cut the form in half to a length of about 24" (Only going to need 14.5" so I might cut it down again for ease of part removal). The top board is just there for pressure.
  5. CadillacMatt

    The Nightshade Caddy

    Okay Okay one more Dora cups FTW lol
  6. CadillacMatt

    The Nightshade Caddy

    After doing a big of research and looking at the high price of PSP Aeroports (they don't even come in the sizes I need) I went to HD and picked up an 8" Sonotube and modeling clay. I'm going to build a mold for a fiberglass flared port here's a sneak preview That's all you get lol Stay tuned
  7. CadillacMatt

    The Nightshade Caddy

    Commenced building of the box today. Outside dims 24D x 16H x 39W. Net volume will be around 6~6.5ft³. Only thing I didn't pick up today was the PVC for the port. Going to do that tomorrow. My makeshift workbench All sliced up
  8. CadillacMatt

    The Nightshade Caddy

    Thanks Steve I hear you, I trust your judgement Thanks, I have followed GMonk's builds for a while, he does know a hell of a lot. All things considered, I might be better off just building a wide, shallow ported box @ 5-6ft³ and if I crunched my numbers right then I can have both the driver and the port facing upwards deep in the trunk, firing straight up at the hole in the rear deck. This would also allow me to build a "dam" between the cabin and trunk that would seal the trunk off. Loved the way my old setup sounded and it wasn't even sealed off, so I have high hopes.
  9. CadillacMatt

    The Nightshade Caddy

    But I thought you ran it in 6 cubes on an SAZ-3000D?
  10. CadillacMatt

    The Nightshade Caddy

    Thanks Chop glad to hear from you it's been a while! The rear deck is already wide open, with my last setup I had subs and port facing forward not sealed off but sounded killer. I was really looking forward to one as well, but it seems that nobody seems to know anything technical about this sub I have, and short of going out and purchasing precision audio measuring equipment to determine the T/S parameters of it building a bandpass would be a shot in the shit. However, all that studying up I did will come in handy however, I figure the extra stiff suspension that begets greater power handling will allow me to design a larger-than-average ported enclosure (maybe 7 cubes or so) and tuning @ 32Hz... after plugging some numbers into WinISD things look promising, but then again I'm using the stock measurements for the sub. Sooo basically what it comes down to is all I can do is build it and see what happens? Maybe I should stop thinking so hard.
  11. I'm thinking of designing a 4th order in my trunk for a D2 18" Nightshade, and after rooting around the web for a while I found some T/S parameters for the stock speaker, however, this speaker has been reconed with an extra stiff suspension built to handle about 3KW daily. How would this affect the T/S numbers, if at all? The website I found here lists the Qts @ 0.44, the Vas @ 36.7 and an Fs of 38Hz. Thanks!
  12. CadillacMatt

    T/S parameters on a beefed up Nightshade?

    Anybody?
  13. CadillacMatt

    Random Box built by Sound=Vibration

    That red carpet reminds me of old school Astro van carpeting! Beautiful attention to detail man I'm lovin' it.
  14. CadillacMatt

    T/S parameters on a beefed up Nightshade?

    Thanks for taking the time to explain, it's helping me out as I've really been trying to tackle the details behind it all... Well, just for giggles and to help myself learn I crunched the numbers for that off-the-shelf 18" Nightshade with the params listed on Sundown's page through the equations on DIYsubwoofer, and I got 1.16f³ for the vented chamber and 1.34ft³ for the sealed enclosure, a gain of 2.12dB, and a top freq of 62Hz... this is assuming an F1 lower dB of 30Hz, and an S Factor of 0.6. I was also hoping you could help clarify things for me... when you plug a number for the lower cutoff into the equation it is likened to choosing a tuning for the box of a ported setup? Like a box that's tuned to 32Hz means the -3dB cutoff is at 32Hz? And as for the upper freq if my goal is to nail the lows on a daily setup, is that a good top end for a fairly wide passband and not a one note wonder? And also, is there any way for me to determine the amount of Vas/Fs/Qts I should add or subtract based on the current info? Thanks again for the help
  15. CadillacMatt

    UpGradde's 4th Order Build

    Hey Ed know this is an old thread revive but as time goes by I find myself knocking at that 4th order door... just wanted to know how you arrived at all your calculations, I've been researching non-stop for the past two days on 4th orders and getting familiarized with WinISD, but it keeps recommending an enclosure about the same size as yours for the 18" I have! I'm waiting on a response over in the Sundown forum for the T/S specs of my Nightshade but after that I'll be ready to rock and roll. I loved the way your setup sounded at the last meet man, but I think when I design mine I'm going to make the sealed portion a bit bigger and the ported a bit smaller just to widen the passband a little bit... or at least from what I hear. Meh.
  16. CadillacMatt

    T/S parameters on a beefed up Nightshade?

    Another thing I found strange is that when I plug those parameters into WinISD and several other box calculators for a 4th order, it gives ridiculously small enclosure recommendations like 2cuft sealed, 1cuft ported. I'm looking to design an enclosure with an S factor of about .6, a compromise between narrow and wide bandwidth (although I would prefer to have a somewhat wider passband at the expense of efficiency, especially one that would add greater low end extension). I realize that the smaller the enclosure the wider the passband but that would be an awfully small box!
  17. CadillacMatt

    The Nightshade Caddy

    OK after spending the better part of my day researching on Google... I might try a 4th order BP setup, aero-ported through the rear deck. After all the reading I did I could not find one single website that had a straight-up tutorial on how to build one, but I did find a few websites that were pure mathematical equations and theories so I guess my only option is to dig my Calculus book out and study like a schoolgirl. If anyone has knowledge on the subject I am all ears, I am all about doing this 100% legit and correct, thanks!! Another ghetto picture to explain. The little black circles are aeroports going through the rear deck
  18. CadillacMatt

    Feedback on these cards?

    Hey guys Soooooo I was at one of the local dives last week and the DJ told me about a friend of his having an album release party on a yacht out on Lake Travis, Austin in a few weeks, and I figured it would be a good opportunity to promote my side work... Been milling over a few designs and decided to get the UV Gloss, double sided stock to print them on, I'm probably going to order them within the next few days to get them on time, anybody have any suggestions or anything? The slogan there is not finalized I just kinda made somethin up off the top but if anyone has any better ideas lol! Thanks Front Back
  19. CadillacMatt

    Sub back port front?

    Against my better judgement I sauntered over to ca.com forums and asked this question and so far they laid out two possible solutions: 1. Two seperate slot ports on either side of the box, or 2. Aeroports! I have no experience with them at all as we speak I'm Googling Aero vs. Slot ports and soaking in all the info I can.
  20. CadillacMatt

    Sub back port front?

    Hey all So I'm going to be installing an 18" Nightshade in my trunk, and I have been trying to come up with a workable solution for a box design. Been sifting through threads but haven't really seen too many builds with a sub back/port front design or vice-versa. It seems that any other design would take up the entire trunk with little room for any other equipment. This is what I'm proposing: Top down view of the trunk. The yellow dashed line is the rear deck, about 19" total height clearance. The grey dashed line is the recessed spare tire well, about 6" or so deep. Box sides and top would be built as to contour around the wheel wells. This would be the view from the back, I apologize for the shitty drawing.. it gives the impression that the box is sealed off from the cabin but in reality it would have about 5" or so of clearance (what I'm shooting for...). The woofer is recessed down into the tire well, I could fabricate the bottom of the enclosure out of fiberglass I'm thinking to contour to the floor pan. Last but not least here is an actual picture of the trunk taken before the sound deadening for visual clarity I would want the box to be about 5 cubes of internal volume... I've long since forgotten the trunk measurements and haven't gotten into the specifics of it yet but this was just a preliminary idea I was tossing around... anybody worked with a design like this? Thanks a million guys
  21. CadillacMatt

    Sub back port front?

    You mean the other way around? Well, I'm sort of basing the idea that my old box sounded much better faced towards the cabin than turned around facing the back (but I think that's mostly due to the box being so big it practically sealed off the trunk lol). Plus you know I don't really care about numbers man just like you said in the Navi it scored hella good but it doesn't sound too well on music lol
  22. CadillacMatt

    Bass hits, car jerks

    I second the idea of the alt putting a strain on the engine... I'm guessing as the alt tries to deliver more power it creates more rolling resistance against the rotation of the pulley. I had the same problem even with my MechMan alt, due to a weak battery... at full tilt every now and then the car would misfire and the belt would slip a little
  23. CadillacMatt

    Since everyone seems to want Neo...

    Wow, this might need to be sold with a coolant system lol! That would look hella futuristic too
  24. CadillacMatt

    good rim brands

    yeah thats what im saying why is it so bad to have rims at 16. but man thats sucks your rims got scratched No biggie, just remember to watch out for potholes and curbs. Especially while drinking tequila.
  25. CadillacMatt

    good rim brands

    I got rims when I first started driving and everything was fine Until I let my girlfriend at the time borrow my car and she scraped a curb lulz
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