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afearlesshunter

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Posts posted by afearlesshunter


  1. Just spoke with Damien. I measured 5/8" ~ 15-16 mm from cone to lead. He said to start with bending them outwards towards the basket spokes more and maybe outward a  little. He's said he'll be sending the pics and measurements to nick at IA to make sure the rest are gucci.

    28 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

    I've got an original JBL 1500GTi if you want an upgrade.  Hasn't been used since 94.

    Lol thanks but don't need more drivers until I get rid of some, nearing 15 atm and most don't get used.


  2. 2 hours ago, jcarter1885 said:

    Sucks about the sub, i know how annoying tinsel slap can be.

    Yep, I might as well have some pa subs with this amount of throw.

    1 hour ago, Jay-C76 said:

    Poor woofer design...

    Pretty tasty other than this. But yep I feel that neither damien or the build house really tested the smaller woofers. All I ever saw decent testing on were the 15's and 18's. I can't imagine the 10" version.


  3. Got my port today as well as a decent deal on a kicker zx1500.1 that just so happen to come with some alpine type r's and some 1/0 cca  that has never been installed. Probably will end up selling it all. lol

    bc2567f9-3207-41d0-8be8-c9aa6c531cd6.jpg

    705b88ab-f217-44a7-b0c9-0c3f414dc830.jpg


  4. Alrighty, about to get back on this build. Starting hopefully this weekend. New enclosure should be 3.76-3.9 net depending on port length I end up at. One box this time, common chamber. Starting orientation will be subs firing forward, port to the drivers side. Ill test drivers back as well. 

    Box outside dimensions frame. worth the $3 to see if the stupid thing will fit.

    000f58e4-5534-44b1-a23b-b6abf732aeac.jpg

    Audible Engineering adjustable port.

    bc2567f9-3207-41d0-8be8-c9aa6c531cd6.jpg

    And finally have some answers and more questions on the noises that seems like bottoming out in the previous enclosures. I have been testing the drivers free air and have found that the cone hits the leads. I haven't made an exact measurement but I do not believe this driver will ever be able to reach xmax (stated to be 29mm) due to the leads being so close. :Doh: I have not yet brought this up to the company but I will be shortly after I measure the distance of actual travel. Kinda sucks because it happens WAY before mechanical bottom and it is very loud in the enclosure.

    A linky for the vid of the leads.... they're close af.

     


  5. 2 hours ago, Jay-C76 said:

    More power smaller enclosure...in my testing experience. With the increase in voltage & amperage you amp with be able to deliver a more constant amount of quality power

    Thats what Im thinking. Although, I can't get winsd to show the excursion that Im getting currently. With 4k input into each, its only showing just under 23 mm of excursion yet I keep having problems with what sounds to me like bottoming out. 


  6. UPDATE: The good. New gatorback belt is on and no slipping. Woot! Pac lc-1 around halfway and holding 14+ easy while driving. 

    The bad. I need to get the SDA3's into different boxes. Excursion limit is reached super fast between 34 and 38hz. Thinking of going down to 4 cubes tuned to 32 single chamber, probably using an 8 inch aero. Not sure if I should pursue the trunk wall still or go with something different such as port side subs forward or back. Maybe just subs rear with port rear aswell. 


  7. 10 hours ago, edouble101 said:

    I had a similar issue with my aftermarket alternator. Your belt squeal is caused from the smaller diameter aftermarket alternator pulley. The only way I was able to overcome this was with a 0.3" smaller OD diameter belt along with a better belt. The belt that I used was a Goodyear Gatorback. 

    32155786444_2f855ce063_k.jpg

    Another option is to use an idler pulley on the bottom bolt on your alternator mount. This will drastically increase belt wrap around the alternator pulley. I did this on a previous vehicle I had.

     32228187574_c7db14c4a6_z.jpg

    Not a good pic of belt wrap but the difference was significant. 

    32258105963_79c77540eb_z.jpg

    I you use a larger pulley you might as well put your stock alternator back on.

    I ordered a gator back thats .5" shorter than the one I have on, so hopefully that does it. I do like the idle pulley on the mount though, Ill have to keep that in mind. Thanks for sharing that, never really thought of it.

    Part of the problem is a longer than stock belt is needed to fit onto the pulley. The alt is a much larger case and swings a bit further away from the system in order to fit the bracket on the engine.  Has to be long enough to even get the belt on at all, but at the same time short enough to keep it from slipping. 


  8. 1 hour ago, Billy Jack said:

    You need a bigger pulley and belt as tighter want do a thing but make the belt fail quicker. I have seen this very problem a bunch of times and everything was tried and didn't work until they got a larger pulley. And I already know what everyone is gonna say, (but it want turn as fast causing it to not put out as much), trust me a alternator actually turning with a proper size pulley will do far more then one that's just setting there with the belt spinning on it. Besides it's really not that much difference anyways.

    Im willing to try a few more belt sizes before I pull the alt out because that requires the removal of almost everything on the drivers side of the engine. Also, a larger pulley would not greatly increase the surface contact that the belt makes or make the belt much tighter and may lead to having essentially no output at idle.


  9. 20 hours ago, Billy Jack said:

    I think no one will ever know as there always sold out lol. Kind of like Crescendo sold out for over a year.

    Damien has another batch cooking up along with work being done on some new stuff like 4 inch coil and maybe neo motors too for a 3 inch. 


  10. Little Update: PPI 900.4 seems to be doing fine but still am going to move it to the interior. Alt belt continues to slip even at 2k rpm with anything past halfway on the lc1, Ill be ordering a continental elite 39.5" soon hopefully to get it a little tighter. From about 35hz and up I can not tell but and getting concerned for the subs, might be bottoming out but Its hard to tell when I have to keep my foot on the throttle for the belt not to slip at that level. I can smell them slightly after a few minutes but the cones/ dustcaps don't get that warm, Ive had others much much warmer.

    Received my quad 8awg speaker posts the other day, waiting on more lugs to arrive to get those on. 


  11. Aight, got everything in and tested. PPI has been kind of odd for some reason but I'm moving it out of the trunk soon. Wanted to die wiring up that rear batt with 4/0 after the enclosures were in. They had to be in for amp wire measurements.

    First day had problems with one sub unloading much faster than the other, checked and rewired seems fine now. Need to go back to advance and get yet another belt thats a different size , slips like a mf'r below 1500 rpm, 40" is like barely too long and Im pretty sure the alt is swiveled out all of the way, 39.76" will be the next test size. 

    The amp is surprisingly efficient. No clue how much power I'm getting from it. Gain was set with 50hz sine wave -3dB with subs unhooked, set right before clip light even starts in. Honestly, I haven't turned the lc1 past 1/2 way ( gain was set with it all of the way up). Im still making sure the subs are a little broken in (if you believe in that). Im always looking back at them and listening hard to make sure they don't bottom out but its really hard to tell with the doors and deck flapping around. 

    Not many pics for now. Im honestly embarrassed to show it in its current state. The boxes have no front beauty panel, I haven't made a new trunk floor yet so both boxes are crooked and dip down at the center where they come together. Wiring looks like sht. No rack for the 8k yet so its got foam on the bottom and back and held in place with a sheet of mdf. 

    Door holes cut to fit 6.5's

    IMG_0316.jpg 

    Amp turn on stuff and Xs 31 (that's too deep for the spare tire well :Doh:

    IMG_0345-1.jpg

    Under the hood was extremely tight, but didn't turn out too bad. 

    IMG_0349.jpg


  12. 6 hours ago, edouble101 said:

    Holy cats, cant believe you got 4 runs of 1/0 through the firewall!

    Don't know if you mistyped but... its 4/0 ;) 

     

    52 minutes ago, Aaron Clinton said:

    Tuned in.

    Thanks sir! Hopefully it will go well and maybe playable this weekend.


  13. Finally got the firewall drilled out. Ended up having to use a step bit, wanted to die the entire time. Have two power and two ground from front to rear now. Really hoping to get everything in for a test run before the end of the week, will be working on making everything look nice afterwards.

    Lumpy carpet is cool I suppose.

    IMG_0183_1.jpg

    IMG_0185_1.jpg

    And knu konceptz 4 awg vs 4/0 welding cable just for fun.

    IMG_0181_1.jpg

     


  14. 1 hour ago, Billy Jack said:

    Probably wrong alt. I have never seen anything bigger then a 300amp alt for the civic and that was for the biggest engine they made. It's Probably a alt for a bigger car or truck, but I'm no Honda expert. Or it could be a alt that has to have custom brackets to fit. Did Singer say it was a direct bolt on alt? Cause they sell both.

    Bought it through sky high car audio and gave them the info on the car. Original inquiry listed the 320 and had no mention of being a "universal". It has a bracket on it but I couldn't get it to mount up on the bottom. 


  15. Alrighty, 2001 honda civic sedan ES1. Singer 320 Amp alternator. Came with a black bracket for the bottom and a spacer for the top. Was suggested to get a smaller belt by other people but it won't even go on with the factory size belt. Bottom brackets do not line up at all. Don't really know what to do. Pics
    Alt with black bottom mounting bracket

    IMG_0145.jpg

    Alt mounted on top with belt on.

    IMG_0148-1.jpg

    Where the black bracket provided does not come close to fitting with the factory adjustable bracket. 

    IMG_0167.jpg


  16. 8 hours ago, Notorious97200 said:

    Tuned in for more.

     

    I'm curious about those Soundrive subs : you will have them on a 8000 watts amp ? Those subs must be strong.

     

    Yeah its a Taramps for whatever thats worth. I expect to have rise and am only wiring at 1 ohm so that 8k will quickly be <4k.

    7 hours ago, Randal Johnson said:

    Nice. I'm tuned in.

    Wish I had time to work on my ride. 

    Thanks, I've been waiting for some time for about two months now. The build is probably one of my favorite parts.

    2 hours ago, Infinite913 said:

    I got a buddy here with 2 soundrive 15s v1 in a no wall setup jeep commander and it is on soundigital 8k and they love every bit of it. He is tuned 36hz

    Everyone that I've seen and talked to with the soundrive's has been happy with them. Im currently tuned to 30 but might bump up the port area and raise tuning to 32 or so, currently without being sealed up they were getting down well to about 25hz.

     

    More updates hopefully later tonight. Thanks guys. 


  17. Alrighty, got my hydraulic crimper in the mail but haven't tested it yet. Started tearing out the rear tonight and trying to figure out how to fit group 31's within 1/16" height clearance, probably have to do a cut out of the new floor piece where they are. 

    Pulling enclosure ( everything for this build is made to be relatively easy to remove.)

    IMG_0096.jpg 

     

    Ideal location for first batt 

    IMG_0117.jpg

    Stopped here for the night, still need to pull all carpet from trunk, rear seats, passenger seat etc.

    IMG_0134.jpg


  18. Round number two for the real deal. Started planning and collecting for this build a few months after I got the car, so basically a full year now. Don't really have an idea for goals yet, I hope its loud and I will get it metered in the spring. Super close to tearing into it and getting it done, waiting on a few more things to arrive in the mail.
    2001 Honda Civic Sedan ES1
    Singer 320A
    Soundrive SDA3 12's
    Taramp's HD8000 Ex
    PPI 900.4
    Xs Power D5100 & 3100 (maybe more battery coming)
    4/0 welding cable
    SHCA Fuse Holders / Speaker Wire / Battery Terminals
    Kenwood X399 HU
    *Possibly going with SSA Evil 6.5 for mids, no clue on tweeters yet*
    Lots of misc stuff to make it all happen.... on to the pictures.
    The car

    IMG_7481.jpg

     

    Box design, 2.3 ft 30hz 

    2.33 ft 30 hz 2.25x14 port.jpg

     

    In the trunk. I will be make a front panel for it and completely sealing off once I finish wiring in batteries etc.

    IMG_7497.jpg

     

    IMG_0001.JPG

    FullSizeRender.jpg

    IMG_0076.JPG

     

    IMG_0040.JPG

    IMG_0075.JPG

    Still waiting on my 16 ton crimper, triple 4/0 inputs, probably get some quad 8 awg for the speaker terminals whenever they are back in stock. Still need a shorter belt for the alt and just small stuff to wrap it up. Advice etc always appreciated. Thanks for stoppin in for a gander!


  19. Really depends a lot on the enclosure. Ran mine (18 inch xcon) with a crescendo 1500, ~7.6 cubic ft 30hz basically no sub sonic filter. Any more power in this box would have needed an ssf for playing below like 25 hz. If I wasn't playing such low stuff all of the time and or a slightly different box I would have thrown much more at it. 

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