heftybone

I've been looking online for some sound shows in said areas, and i can't find anything but old posts and people that discuss the shows they've been to. does anyone have any idea where i could find the info about upcoming shows, or know of any that's happening soon? thanks.

where and when is this being held? i would really like to go, especially to check out sencheezy's setup. that is one of the most badassious rigs I've seen yet. keep up the good work, brother!

might wanna check out the dayton audio um15-22. this girl is a low end beast, and would work well in that enclosure. of course you can't go wrong with the sundown or any of them on your list, but for the money, you can't beat the dayton. guaranteed.

hahahahahaaa

I'm considering the soundqubed hdc4 15. I'm not sure what order this is, or anything like that as i am a complete noob to building a box to specs. I've built more than a hundred enclosures in my life, but never one to exact measurements. they've always sounded good. in fact, I've had people ask how many 15's i had, when it was just 1 12. I've blown 2-12's & 2-15's out of the water with just 1 12 on multiple occasions. different boxes, cars, subs, etc... now onto my question. i plan on making the top of the enclosure 6" away from the sub. of course the port is going to be around 4x8 or 10 but i was wondering if 6" is enough room for that sub. the enclosure is 40x18x16 without the bandpass, so I've around 5 cubic feet when it's all said and done. i just need to know if 6" is far enough away to let the sub breath adequately. of course the length/width is 40x18 respectively.

yeah, that's what i thought. damnit! i guess it was wishful thinkin. like i could trick the amp into seein it as 2ohms, ya know? the wiring schematic i seen for 1ohm load was amp+ to sub #1+ then to #2+, then amp- to sub #2- then to sub #1-. my idea was to have individual wires for each connection because that seems to be a little different. because that 1ohm diagram still runs the wires kind-of in series where the coils are still connected to each other, where-as my thought is the coils are independent of each other except for right out of the amp. which, i guess, is basically the same damn thing. doh!

oh, and if i had a stereo amp i could run the coils independently and that would be 2ohms, right?

well i know that. everything I've read has stated that but, i was thinkin if i took 1 lead from each terminal and wired them to the amp then it might see 2ohms. like if i took 1 voice coil + and ran it to the amp + and that same voice coil - and ran to the amp - and then did the exact same for the other side then it might see 2ohms. you get me? and if so, do you think that would be 2ohms? or would that be just like the 1ohm wiring? it is slightly different than the 1ohm wiring method. sorry, i can never remember which is series and which is parallel.

hey people, do you think i could run @ 2ohms with this electrical?

good thing, i would've quit a long time ago!

oh yeah m5, i knew that, i was just wanting to give an explanation to everyone else! and alton, you are as accurate as a $150,000 spl meter. m5 is for certain an asset, and then some! that guy really knows his shit! he really helped me out too, it really makes the forums a top-notch place when there's people like him ,(and yourself, and honda and eurika and that flaky jake guy ) that's willing to help out and share their knowledge just to help out some hard-headed dumb-ass! that's why i try to express my appreciation so much. annoyingly at times, I'm sure! I'm just glad you guys don't charge for this!

damn m5, i guess they're made of platinum and diamonds if it's the materials that drive the cost! I'm sure the accuracy has somethin to do with it, but what would make them so much better (the $150k units) than the cheaper ones, like for $25k or $5k? I'm sure it's not just the fact that they have multiple pick-up sources. and why would someone need to know that much detail about their product (excluding bomb makers, of course!)? i would think that building an airplane you would want to know how much noise/vibration is transduced into the cabin or car makers the same deal, but is that as far as it goes, or do you measure other aspects of the field? you certainly delve into some serious shit if you're playin with equipment like thay on a daily basis.

well evidently 1ohm is not the place for me. i smelled coil when i wired it up, so i figure my electrical just isn't up to the task. still with stock 130amp alternator and battery w/0awg "big 3 (er 4) for those just joining in, or that hasn't read through every single overly responsive, boring, long, tiring, excruciatingly painful reply or post that I've made. you guys think it would be the cca 0awg power and ground? i was thinkin it was either the stock electrical not givin enough power or the amp givin too much power. the amp is rated at 1900watts @ 1ohm/12v and the sub is 800watts rms. i know it's keepin 12v at the hard basslines @ 4ohm, but i doubt it is @ 1ohm. i didn't check it. what's you're ideas on it. any input is appreciated and considered. I've read of people putting 1000watts rms to this sub, but you know how that goes. it's a dayton audio um22-15. I've wired it back to 4ohms, but now i got 12awg ofc true gauge speaker wire, (it's actually bigger than the 10awg copper/aluminum wire i had). and just for the record, there is no difference in the sound between the overrated 10awg copper/aluminum or the true 12awg ofc.

oh yeah, you guys know i was jokin about the $15 meter has to be good, right? I've looked em up and m5 aint shittin, some of em get up to $25k! damn!

yeah, i can't justify shellin out that kind of dough just to get a reading. i think the local car audio dealer has an spl meter, so I'm gonna check him out once i get the new wire in and ran at 1ohm. he's gonna be reluctant and probably charge me cuz i didn't buy anything from him for this build and I've bought somethin from him on every build I've done for the past 25 years! i feel kinda bad but he wanted $8 for a 0awg lug, man! that's ridiculous when i can get a pack of 10 for $12. he usually works with me and flexs the prices but i guess times are tough. no wonder, at those prices! that's one thing i never understood about dealers, even though they give ya some deals and lower the cost some, they still charge out-the-ass which pretty much drives them out of business. take radioshack for example. and i always try to support the little guys, but at those prices it's hard to.

hey, i paid close to $15 for this meter, it's gotta be good!

all the ones I've seen when i was researching where a steel or aluminum color. perhaps they're coated? either way any connection to a fuse block or distribution block or at the amp is choked down with a non-copper material. of course the run is so short I'm sure it's not diminishing the current. but i figure having a long run of aluminum wire would, huh?

yeah jake, i can see where you're comin from because it's basically like you run all of this ofc just to plug it into a steel fuse block. of course the fuse block is so short that you're not losin anything because it's steel, but it's kind of the same principal. you're not losin much because the run from sub to amp is short. i wonder why they don't make the power inputs on amps out of copper?

yeah dude, I've seen articles like that and I've seen articles stating cca is just as conductive. the funny thing though, whatever materials the article is saying is good is usually the one that they're tryin to sell. either way, i think ofc is the best, and when i get my run of 0awg ofc i will do a conductivity test and see for myself, but i think it's already been proven by un-biased testers that ofc is the best. is there an oxygen enriched copper wire out there? if so, would it be slightly cheaper? i doubt it exists though because i figure it would corrode.

and thanks lot for that chart jake, very informative. i didn't think it was the same and i figured if i said somethin like that then someone would chime in with some good knowledge.

first off, no i couldn't find a modeling software for mobile devices but i did goto my local car audio dealer and went over the specs with the old guy there and he used his enclosure spec sheet and we found that the port length and air space was right for one of the jl 15's, but i don't have one of those so yeah, the box is probably off for this sub as i built it for the fi sp4, but i couldn't get that one because i didn't have enough cash. so i spent the majority of the money i did have on a good amp. anyway about the cca. I'm using 0awg for power and ground because it was cheaper than ofc of the same gauge and length, and everything I've read about cca vs. ofc is basically some people swear by ofc and others say it doesn't matter. I've even seen some people that say they tested it and the cca was just as free-flowin as the ofc. personally, it works for me for now, so I'll stick with it until i can get enough moola to get some ofc. and since i got a cheap amp kit, i have the fuse holders and shit that i need, so all i need is a good 20' of 0awg ofc, which i do want because i think it's better and i really don't like the cca, but like i said it works for me for now.

na, it clearly states under the specifications; accuracy----+/-2db @ 94db spl, the microphone is electret condensor, it has a range of 30-130db, reference----0db=0.0002 micro bar and the weighting is a and c with a fast and slow display response. I've been using the c weighting as it responds to frequencies from 30-10,000hz. it doesn't say anywhere about it being type 2 or any specific type at all. it does have a signal output though, what could i hook that up to and what would it do differently than what it's already doing?

Bologna. I bet you could go to those people and switch it back to CCA and if you didn't tell them they wouldn't notice a damn thing. yeah, that's what i was thinkin too. i got cca 0awg power wire to the amp and it's deliverin the same voltage as the ofc 0awg that's on my big 3. i thought maybe the copper would make for a cleaner signal, but i don't see how. i mean, aluminum is just as good a conductor as copper, right?

yeah i get ya jake. i guess, once again, there's only one way to really find out. I'm going to try switchin my wire anyway, so while I'm at it, I'm gonna wire down to 1ohm. i don't have any bass boosts set or anything except for one on the amp and that's at half and it goes to +12db, all sub levels at the hu are at 0 and there's no other crossovers other than the hu and amp. so i can always turn that one on the amp down if it's too much, and i can go negative with the hu settings as well. but when is it ever too much bass? what am i thinking?!

no, I'm not backwards. that's what I'm sayin; i have 10awg (which i know is bigger, but i don't think it's tru gauge because it's almost as big as the 12 I've got), but it's got a copper+ and an aluminum-, so I'm wondering if switchin it to the 12awg, (which is true gauge, and both are copper) would actually have an audible difference. I've seen alot of talk where people say they've switched from cheap wire to ofc and it made an audible difference. i guess there's really only one way to find out, huh?