Tyrell Wilson

Looking to purchase 1 of these. Paying $550 shipped to 20910. Please contact me at 302.three.six.seven.295.five

I know, I am the 1 who purchased it. Anyone know where I can find 1 more?

Hrmmm...If only you had 2 more of them I would buy 4 and put them in a wall but not sure where I can find another 2 for a decent price. I currently have 4 xcon 12s.

fyi - i just ordered another 2 8" flares off of Adrian and of course they look amazing. I cannot wait to get them installed!

fyi - i decided to go with a removable port. I am going to try 2 8" aero ports to start and will change it accordingly for tuning.

Hey All, Trying to figure out how I want to setup my daily driver and would like some input from some experts (as I am not 1). I have 2 12" XCON D1's and 2 Orion 2500d's. The Plan: Wire each XCON in parallel to provide a .5 ohm load The 2500d's are not strappable but they should be stable at .5 with my electrical So the thing is, I did some testing on 1 of my 2500d's and was getting approximately 2200 rms on stock electrical in my friends truck (which was probably only putting out around 12V or so). By wiring my subs down to .5 ohm's I feel that the amp will be able to supply at least 2500-3000k rms to each sub. Would this be way too much for each 12" XCON (I don't want to blow them). I know I could keep the gains adjusted appropriately, but just wanted to hear about others experiences with these subs. 2500d specs: RMS Power @ 4 ohms1200 watts x 1 channelsRMS Power @ 2 ohms1700 watts x 1 channelsRMS Power @ 1 ohm2500 watts x 1 channels Thanks for any response/feedback

If you reread his last post he stated what he means. By fourth he means 4th order bandpass. Op just a heads up a ported box is a 4th order vented enclosure and a bandpass box is a 4th order bandpass enxlosure. So just saying 4th order doesn't specify the exact enclosure you want, hope that helps. Thanks, I just noticed that I did not specify.

Yeah, I am currently going to run 2 Orion 2500d's. I may later add 2 more 2 the mix if I can get my hands on them. However, I still am torn between a regular ported enclosure and a 4th order. When I do the "math" it says that my subs are not made for a 4th, but they are more so suited for a regular ported enclosure or a 6th order. That is just the math though, I wonder if anyone has any real world experience with these subs in a 4th order enclosure and their performance.

Nevermind, I have a designer. Now I just need 2 more 2500d's :C)

Anyone want to design me a 4th order for my xcon's ?

I have access to a 12" aero port, I may try that out as well. I am planning on making my wall w/ a interchangable port so I guess i could always get both

I currently have 1 8" aero port and could always order up another. What software would you recommend?

I am thinking of using a aero port in my wall (simply b/c not many ppl do it). How large of a aero port do you think i need for 4 XCons? The box should be around 11 cubic ft if i keep it simple.

How would you all recommend setting up 4 XCon 12s? Flat ported wall, 4th order, etc etc...? This will be in my accord coupe.

I decided to go ahead and wall my Accord Coupe and have gone w/ 4 12" SSA XCONs on my 2 Orions 2500s. I am going to do completely custom doors and pillars. I will let you know of the front stage once I figure it out.

That is correct, i have crossover points with no overlap. I was not aware that there would still be cancellation if the same speakers at the same size were playing the same frequency.

I am not arguing. I am simply asking a question. Telling me to sell/return most of the equipment i purchased isn't teaching me anything. Or telling me that what I have is overkill/no good is not helping either. I am not saying he is incorrect, i am simply asking for explanations.

Don't just say something if you don't plan on backing it up with some logical reasoning. I am not saying you are incorrect, but I do want to know why you think it will sound bad? Just saying your setup sucks is not helping the situation or providing any means of actually helping. I will be running both 2500d amps at 2 ohms like i previously said I was going to because I already purchased both amps. I think you all need to understand that this is a "show car," this is not a car i drive often (maybe 2k miles a year). Not only do I want it to sound good but it MUST look good. Many of you keep referring to staging and such, yet I do not really care about staging at all. this car only needs to be LOUD & CLEAR (No distortion and or vibrations). With the type of music i listen to staging is not really all that important anyway. I am looking more so for loud and just fill. There will be 8 tweets, 8 5 1/4s, 4 8s and the 2 12s. I'm not sure how you think it will sound like a shit show when it is all being professionally tuned with a good sound processor. also you can't really call it a front stage when most of the speakers will be in the rear in a soundbar like enclosure. Any other input? Audio 101 eludes you.Using any two drivers to play one frequency will create interference. Both constructive and destructive. This will cause a mess not only in the staging which you don’t care about but the frequency response. The sensitivity mismatch in your choices is idiotic. If you don’t understand that then you have no business in installing anything in your car. Your driver size choices are completely confusing as well. A 3 way has one major purpose. That is to get as much of the audible spectrum into a single driver as possible. You made this 8 and then picked a size of driver that will beam like hell and generally sucks donkey dick as a midrange. I didn’t add detail before because seriously you have one of the worst laid out “front stage” ideas I’ve ever seen anyone bring to a forum. No surprise that you find inspiration on SMD where the average forum goer doesn’t know his head from his ass and the whole forum is corrupted due to an owner that is keen to make money of noobs instead of educating them. Fundamentally there is only misinformation there not real information. Your LOUD & CLEAR will be loud but will be FAR from clear. Anyways, I only picked a few items on why it is bad there are a ton more. If you did what I requested though we could actually help instead of telling why what won’t work focus on what could. Your processor choice isn’t so good for this either. Each speaker will be playing different frequencies...there is no overlapping...? What is wrong with the processor choice? Any other recommendations?

I was going with the Rockford Fostgate 3Sixty.3

This is the car that inspired me for my setup. He has multiple speakers and just 1 15" in the trunk and can hit 150s off of his trunk setup with a nicely constructed box. This car sounds ABSOLUTELY AMAZING in person...best sounding car I have ever heard. I am shooting for something like this... http://www.*****.com/board/topic/158900-06-altima-6k-trunk-build-fi-15-team-sub-hair-trick-vids/page-13

Don't just say something if you don't plan on backing it up with some logical reasoning. I am not saying you are incorrect, but I do want to know why you think it will sound bad? Just saying your setup sucks is not helping the situation or providing any means of actually helping. I will be running both 2500d amps at 2 ohms like i previously said I was going to because I already purchased both amps. I think you all need to understand that this is a "show car," this is not a car i drive often (maybe 2k miles a year). Not only do I want it to sound good but it MUST look good. Many of you keep referring to staging and such, yet I do not really care about staging at all. this car only needs to be LOUD & CLEAR (No distortion and or vibrations). With the type of music i listen to staging is not really all that important anyway. I am looking more so for loud and just fill. There will be 8 tweets, 8 5 1/4s, 4 8s and the 2 12s. I'm not sure how you think it will sound like a shit show when it is all being professionally tuned with a good sound processor. also you can't really call it a front stage when most of the speakers will be in the rear in a soundbar like enclosure. Any other input?

Thanks Leedogg, I think that's what I will do considering I already purchased the 2nd 2500d and it should put less stress on both amps.

I hope that's not a bad thing :x

That person is an idiot, stop listening to him. So you like loud and peaky and something that is much less loud and flat response at the same time. Or perhaps you just don't understand either of the opposites. You can but it makes no sense and won't help you at all. Back to liking the FR thing....obviously you don't. He has A LOT to learn.Seriously, just run one amp. You never once referenced a meter in your posts so chasing less than audible sound differences is pointless. You have to double the power to hear a difference. Running a second amp won't do that for you as between reaching the thermal & mechanical limits of the driver and power compression will stop that cold in its tracks. The 2nd amp is a waste of money, don't buy it, don't use it and don't invest in the necessary electrical to add it as what you propose is literally akin to flushing money down the toilet. I would also be vary wary of any other advice said friend is giving you as obviously he is a complete noob and infatuated with all of the wrong aspects of audio. Headroom is important, but this is a sub that is going to play the very smallest of regions in the audio spectrum where your ear is super inefficient at hearing distortion or anomalies. Terrible place to spend extra money for no reason. Put that budget you were about to waste to good use and spend it ALL on your front stage. It will make a monstrous difference. You still think I should just run the 1 amp even though I already have the 2nd with the electrical to back it up?

That person is an idiot, stop listening to him. So you like loud and peaky and something that is much less loud and flat response at the same time. Or perhaps you just don't understand either of the opposites. You can but it makes no sense and won't help you at all. Back to liking the FR thing....obviously you don't. He has A LOT to learn.Seriously, just run one amp. You never once referenced a meter in your posts so chasing less than audible sound differences is pointless. You have to double the power to hear a difference. Running a second amp won't do that for you as between reaching the thermal & mechanical limits of the driver and power compression will stop that cold in its tracks. The 2nd amp is a waste of money, don't buy it, don't use it and don't invest in the necessary electrical to add it as what you propose is literally akin to flushing money down the toilet. I would also be vary wary of any other advice said friend is giving you as obviously he is a complete noob and infatuated with all of the wrong aspects of audio. Headroom is important, but this is a sub that is going to play the very smallest of regions in the audio spectrum where your ear is super inefficient at hearing distortion or anomalies. Terrible place to spend extra money for no reason. Put that budget you were about to waste to good use and spend it ALL on your front stage. It will make a monstrous difference. Thanks for the feedback. That is why I am here asking questions I am tired of pumping out money. I've already spent close to $4k on equipment and my whole initial budget for the system upgrade was $2500 and we have not even began to start the build yet...