Florida_Audio

So I think the next thing I want to do is reduce the rattle of my trunk due to my subwoofer. I put some foam and heavy duty tape between my license plate and the trunk, which stopped the rattle there easy enough. But I think most of the rattle in the trunk is from the top of the trunk. Seem to be a common issue? It is my understanding that adding sound deadening materials to the top of the trunk should reduce the rattle quite a bit, and potentially help increase the amount of bass I hear in the front? But also, wondering which sort of sound deadening material is decently priced and would do a good job? Trying to figure out cost of materials and types of things I would need to install it. Only negative to sound deadening I can think of, is that it adds weight to the car? But should help improve bass a bit? Thanks!

Yea but why would you deaden the base of trunk? I'm trying to see the benefit to learn.

I can add to cart yea. but didnt place any orders yet. try a different web browser? firefox, chrome, etc... try from different hardware like phone versus laptop or desktop? is Don someone from SDS? thanks for putting the message out for more input :} I dont see the point in deadening the base of my trunk like ive seen people do? like i dont think it rattles or I hear the rattle there? idk? i feel the major points should be the rear wall of trunk by license plate and the top of the trunk?

ok cool thanks. so probably be around 30 bucks. thats pretty reasonable if it can fix the trunk rattle. i don't hear it at high volumes, but at low volumes i do hear the rattle

The CLD tiles good for this? Around how many is approximately needed for trunk? Not too expensive?

i thought the LOC should fix this issue though? its LC2i with bass "restore" features, in a way it seems to help, but not perfect

Got the 12" hellion installed earlier today. Thought would take around 3 to 4 hours. But ended up taking 7 hours for amp install, LOC, sub into box, and box into trunk, tuned a bit and all good. The installer seems very knowledgable and super chill dude. I feel bad that it took so long... I was there just hanging out and talking with him throughout the whole thing and paying attention to learn some. Will post more pics tomorrow hopefully after work. I was suprised about how long it took to get through the firewall with a grommet. I guess the new acura TLX are not easy to do. Also that the installer tapped into the power and ground wires for the LOC into the amplifier. Will post pics. Also I know the BOOM logo is not visible with how i positioned the box, but its not a big deal. Looks nice with logo and matching colors, but I'd rather face the sub towards back of trunk instead of upwards. One other thing I learned about today was "box rise". The installer told me even though the amp is rated at 1000 W RMS at 1 ohm, and the subwoofer can handle 950 W RMS, that at times I will often not be getting the full power from the amp due to change in ohms from box rise? Any1 care to comment on this? Should I have actually gotten a 1500 W RMS amplifier to account for the change in ohm from box rise? Thanks!

i made sure to disconnect it under the glove box during installation of subwoofer. okay so it seems to be okay now. the LC2i is very hard to adjust the threshold setting but seems good enough. some songs, like post malone white iverson the bass lowers during some vocals. may just be the song.... idk. but for now its all good i guess. subwoofer is great. just the consistency of bass being played is off a bit. i think its due to the LOC

thanks.i just got back from a week cruise. i will hopefully be able to check things tomorrow. LC2i not too sure how to only play the sub? i have factory setup except for the subwoofer. i don't think i can only play the sub, unless i find out how to disconnect the factory speakers inside stock headunit? the guy seemed to know a decent bit, but yea the box rise comments did somewhat make me question things. also how he mentioned i should use a 300 amp fuse for my amp kit, because i was using 0 guage wire, even though i was only using an amplifier capable of 1000 watts. i asked him to use the 100 amp fuse i supplied him with, and was fine with that. overall he was a really nice dude who knew a good amount of stuff, but i feel like its hard to find someone who is extremely knowledgeable about everything. i did raise the LPF to a higher number, but forgot to what, i can check tomorrow. also still not sure how to upload new image, my file size limit is only 1.72 mb now, and most pictures are around 3 to 4 mb

Can't remove that image above, tried to flip it . also not letting me upload next image? keeps reducing the file size allowed?

More pictures... but i forgot to take pictures of how the LOC is wired. its weird i think. like wired with power and ground into amp. Pics of gains and settings in case it may help to adjust for my issue! thanks for any input.

To answer question about the amp, I got the synergy 1k from here. Rated at 1000 Watt RMS at 1 ohm. Wired in parallel with DVC for the 1 ohm. I have not spent a great deal of time listening to it yet. Had work today for most of day. But on drive back home I noticed that with the headunit set to like 5 to 15 on volume knob, which is low to middle, the subwoofer often won't play or if it does, it randomly jumps to a high boom out of no where... I can set my headunit to around 32 before the door speakers start to distort around 35. I think it goes up to 40. But when I play the volume around 30, then the subwoofer sounds great and occasionally will sort of get real deep, but its much more consistent. At mid to lower volume the subwoofer plays very inconsistently and is all over the place. I guess i just noticed this because i didnt play the volume at lower levels much yet, really wanted to listen to nice bass. The shop that installed the sub, amp, and loc tuned it a bit by ear. we also only listened at higher volumes. the LOC has a Maximize light that supposedly shows when the LOC may be clipping? i think thats what it should be for, but doubt its very accurate. Any ideas on what can be causing this issue? Should I adjust the gain settings? If so I believe I set the LOC gain settings first and then the amplifier if needed? I have no idea where to start, and hope its just a simple adjustment for the gain :[ Thanks for any help!

Looks like he ordered 3x 10inch hellions? i think

So I have the LC2i LOC. It says to use a 1 to 2 amp fuse for the power. Is this really needed? Someone I spoke with told me they don't think its required because the fuse on main power should act as fuse. And if an issue occurred then it should pop the fuse on the main power line. Is that correct? Just wondering if I should go find a 1 amp fuses?

So I see theres a subwoofer that comes in a 4 ohm and a 2 ohm version. I believe a 2 ohm version would be easier to run and most D class amps are compatible with lower ohm rated subwoofers? So is the only reason between the versions, based on which amplifier you have? Just trying to understand this. Thanks! Also, yes I did buy an Acura TLX 2017 tech. With the ELS speaker system. It sounds pretty good but is lacking in quality bass. It has an 8 in subwoofer which sound distorted and horrible. I'll first start by getting a decent subwoofer and then speakers later. Edit: also what SSA sub would be comparable to the JL 12w6 and one comparable to the JLw3? I'm pretty sure that JL has good subwoofers with SQ but they are expensive due to the brand name etc... Looking for 12 inch subwoofer that leans towards SQ but still decent loud. thanks The Icon 12" 1250W seems within my price range. except the RMS rating seems a bit much? So if I don't want to run an amp with more than 600 RMS rating, would that mean it won't sound as great?

Wow thanks a lot for the answer there! Just to clarify, the remote line you are talking about in the beginning is the remote in? Which allows for the LOC to turn on. But what is the remote output switch for then? And you said the remote should come from the headunit if possible. This is the remote output? How would he get this from the headunit? After the wire goes from the stock amplifier thats in the car? Sorry for the questions, after you gave a great answer....

Thanks. So I guess 250 is a good price. He seemed to be familiar with LOC and the LC2i specifically and saying how he normally has issues with them. So he should be able to know about the install well. I am confused with how its hooked up then.... So the remote out feature for turn on is hooked up to the car's battery on the LOC and the amp? Each have their own 12V remote turn on wire to the battery, right? If thats what you are saying? But then the signal for the LOC should use the wire from the factory subwoofer? He mentioned something about how using this wire sometimes causes issues as well i think? Sorry for the confusion. Just bit lost on which wires go where, with LOC to Amplifier, from battery and the factory sub wire?

Any1 had any experience with audio control products? Like their line output converters? I know its probably "easy" enough that I should install my own stuff. But with new car and in general I don't have a garage space or really any tools or previous experience, I don't want to risk messing something up. I would rather pay someone with experience and knowledge to do a good job. I was told from one shop owner that the LC2i are a pain to install because taping into the factory subwoofer doesnt always allow for a good enough signal to turn the LC2i on. And he ends up having to run a wire to the battery and troubleshoot other things often. For sub, amplifier, and LOC install I was quoted around 250. One other place quoted me at 150 for the install. But when speaking with owners the guy charging 250 seems much nicer and willing to explain stuff and help me. The place for 150 I went to several years back and was decently happy with their work, but they don't seem to like to explain stuff. Not very friendly people.... So do you guys think 250 is an okay price? Seems a bit much, but he said would take 3 to 4 hours to install and thats around $75 an hour.

Just to clarify, when you said its trivial to run a remote wire to turn the lc2i and amp on, you mean its fine to do this and have it always on? I think I am bit confused about remote in and remote out lol.... both can be the remote wire you mentioned? Sorry still learning...

Edit: also curious... is a cigarette lighter voltmeter accurate or useful at all? Should I start new thread, or just ask here....? So one concern brought up is that with the LC2i it can stay powered on for longer than needed and potentially drain battery? How would be best to avoid this, assuming I still want to use the LC2i and not a passive LOC? I read this elsewhere, seems legit advice? : With direct power from the battery to the remote in, the LC2i is always on, and if your amp turn on lead is on the remote out of the LC2i as it should be, then your amp and LC2i never turn off. Power to the remote in on the LC2i negates the auto sense turn on feature of the LC2i. Your power and ground wire direct to the battery are fine. All power wires from the battery should be fused. You need to disconnect the remote in wire on the LC2i, and remove it from your vehicle if you want to take advantage of the auto on feature. If this feature does not work, then you need to locate a switched 12V power source and a wire from it to your remote in on the LC2i. A wire from the remote out of the LC2i to your amplifiers remote in should be connected, this is the only wire that should be connected to the remote in on your amplifier. Recap: Remote in: none Remote out: wire to remote in on amplifer + 12V: Direct connection to battery. Fuse wire within 18 inches of battery. Ground: direct to battery is fine, power and ground should be the same size. The ground does not need to be fused. Your LC2i and your amplifier should share the grounding point, if possible.

Met with boomer, dude who makes the boomtown boxes. Nice dude, was really willing to talk about his box and car audio in general. I just had gotten out of almost 9 hour shift and needed to eat and take my girlfriend out, so didnt get too much time to talk with him. Cool how got special delivery cause hes nearby. Box looks great. I'll post pictures once I got the subwoofer in there with the matching colors!

I should probably add that the box is boomtown bt112 single 12" from this site. along with synergy audio efa 1k amplifier from here as well. got knukoncepts 0 guage amp kit with 0 to 4 guage reducers also made by knukoncepts to allow the wire to fit the amp. should get amp tomorrow. and then just need the sub and box. feel like mentioning the box and amp is important along with the sub...

7 to 14 day build time, hoping towards 7 days! bought a hellion 12 incher on 12/11. hope to have installed by jan 1st! will post back with pics n stuffs

Cools thanks. Should I email you about the order? I am ready to order :] I asked on support chat phone. Told me to use 0 to 4 guage reducers then. Need 2 of them, 1 for power, and 1 for ground. And should still provide some benefit over just 4 guage amp wiring kit.

Thanks. I would like to order today hopefully. Just trying to finalize my plans. The Synergy EFA 1k can handle 0 guage wire for amp kit? The hellion 12, dual 2 ohm can be wired in parallel to be 1 ohm at the amp? So then I can use synergy efa 1k to do up to 1k rms at 1 ohm? Looking to get hellion 12" sub, Synergy Audio EFA 1k amplifier, and BoomTown BT112 Single 12" Speaker box. Is there a perhaps a combo discount for, subwoofer, subwoofer box, and amplifer? :] Thanks again Aaron!