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Florida_Audio

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Posts posted by Florida_Audio

  1. Posted

    11 hours ago, TX98Z28 said:

    Thanks man for the tips, I can now add to cart off OSX but concerned to order 80+ CLD tiles and a bunch of MLV etc. when I can't even get an email back or any contact from SDS...

    Don is the owner of SDS I believe. I'd personally deaden the trunk base, only gonna take a couple tiles and done, forget about it, thats just me though.

    Yea but why would you deaden the base of trunk? I'm trying to see the benefit to learn.

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  2. Posted

    8 hours ago, TX98Z28 said:

    Were you able to order from SDS? I'm trying to do the same but either I can't navigate their website or the site isn't working properly. Hope its working for you.

    I can add to cart yea. but didnt place any orders yet. try a different web browser? firefox, chrome, etc... try from different hardware like phone versus laptop or desktop?

    8 hours ago, Aaron Clinton said:

    I just sent Don a message on DIYma to come check out this topic.

    is Don someone from SDS? thanks for putting the message out for more input :}

    I dont see the point in deadening the base of my trunk like ive seen people do? like i dont think it rattles or I hear the rattle there? idk? i feel the major points should be the rear wall of trunk by license plate and the top of the trunk?

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  4. Posted

    11 hours ago, j-roadtatts said:

     Deadening the trunk lid may or may not affect how much bass you hear up front.  If you can hear the rattle over the bass then It will clean the sound up at least.

     There is a lot of different companies out there with varying prices and quality. If you live in a very hot climate I would suggest avoiding the very cheap stuff, As people report it melts And drips. 

     One of the best products on the market is sound deadener showdown. It is highly recommended quite often on this site and other sites as well. 

    https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products

    The cheapest option, If you can’t afford the deadener, would be secure a rib or two of structural support onto the underside. Such as a couple cross supports of 1x2 wood, secured with either screws or glue. 

     Personally I like to fire the sub into the cabin of the car and alleviate the trunk out of the equation altogether.

    The CLD tiles good for this? Around how many is approximately needed for trunk? Not too expensive?

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  5. Posted

    8 hours ago, Tirefryr said:

    The stock head unit will have a bass attenuation circuit.  It cuts the bass as volune increases.  Nearly EVERY manufacturer does this.  It allows them to safely use shitty speakers.

    i thought the LOC should fix this issue though? its LC2i with bass "restore" features, in a way it seems to help, but not perfect

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  6. Posted

    So I think the next thing I want to do is reduce the rattle of my trunk due to my subwoofer. I put some foam and heavy duty tape between my license plate and the trunk, which stopped the rattle there easy enough.

    But I think most of the rattle in the trunk is from the top of the trunk. Seem to be a common issue? It is my understanding that adding sound deadening materials to the top of the trunk should reduce the rattle quite a bit, and potentially help increase the amount of bass I hear in the front?

    But also, wondering which sort of sound deadening material is decently priced and would do a good job? Trying to figure out cost of materials and types of things I would need to install it. Only negative to sound deadening I can think of, is that it adds weight to the car? But should help improve bass a bit?

    Thanks!

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  7. Posted

    On 1/15/2019 at 12:03 PM, dolarbilz said:

    Is your factory stereo equipped with a mic that detects road noise and adjust by itself.i know hondas have it.maybe check to see and disconnect it. 

    i made sure to disconnect it under the glove box during installation of subwoofer.

     

    okay so it seems to be okay now. the LC2i is very hard to adjust the threshold setting but seems good enough.

    some songs, like post malone white iverson the bass lowers during some vocals. may just be the song.... idk. but for now its all good i guess.

    subwoofer is great. just the consistency of bass being played is off a bit. i think its due to the LOC

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  8. Posted

    On 1/6/2019 at 3:45 PM, Aaron Clinton said:

    I would check all connections as a loose or bad connection could be causing this jumpy sound cut out.

    thanks.i just got back from a week cruise. i will hopefully be able to check things tomorrow.

    On 1/7/2019 at 11:12 PM, dolarbilz said:

    What loc are you using?

    LC2i

    On 1/8/2019 at 9:53 AM, ///M5 said:

    Play the sub alone and listen to it.

    I would be suspect of the settings....any shop that tells you about box rise but forgets to tell you about box fall is confused.  He is just regurgitating something he doesn't understand.  To explain, all drivers have an impedance response and this response can change based on the environment it is mounted in.  This response is a curve, it does not only rise but also falls at differing frequencies.  Subs are specified in thermal and mechanical power handling to deal with both the response of the driver and the box it is in.  Having the installer "scare" you that you aren't getting power because of rise is completely irrelevant.  To make matters worse, implying that you would hear a difference in a 1500w amp as compared to a 1000w is asinine.

    Go enjoy your setup.  Your installers comments take with a grain of salt.  Since you have to take them with a grain of salt I personally would double check everything he did.

    not too sure how to only play the sub? i have factory setup except for the subwoofer. i don't think i can only play the sub, unless i find out how to disconnect the factory speakers inside stock headunit? the guy seemed to know a decent bit, but yea the box rise comments did somewhat make me question things. also how he mentioned i should use a 300 amp fuse for my amp kit, because i was using 0 guage wire, even though i was only using an amplifier capable of 1000 watts. i asked him to use the 100 amp fuse i supplied him with, and was fine with that. overall he was a really nice dude who knew a good amount of stuff, but i feel like its hard to find someone who is extremely knowledgeable about everything.

    On 1/11/2019 at 7:39 AM, Notorious97200 said:

    How is set your LPF ? It seems low, but your picture is difficult to read !

     

    i did raise the LPF to a higher number, but forgot to what, i can check tomorrow. also still not sure how to upload new image, my file size limit is only 1.72 mb now, and most pictures are around 3 to 4 mb

     

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  11. Posted

    To answer question about the amp, I got the synergy 1k from here. Rated at 1000 Watt RMS at 1 ohm. Wired in parallel with DVC for the 1 ohm.

    I have not spent a great deal of time listening to it yet. Had work today for most of day.

    But on drive back home I noticed that with the headunit set to like 5 to 15 on volume knob, which is low to middle, the subwoofer often won't play or if it does, it randomly jumps to a high boom out of no where... I can set my headunit to around 32 before the door speakers start to distort around 35. I think it goes up to 40.

    But when I play the volume around 30, then the subwoofer sounds great and occasionally will sort of get real deep, but its much more consistent. At mid to lower volume the subwoofer plays very inconsistently and is all over the place. I guess i just noticed this because i didnt play the volume at lower levels much yet, really wanted to listen to nice bass.

    The shop that installed the sub, amp, and loc tuned it a bit by ear. we also only listened at higher volumes. the LOC has a Maximize light that supposedly shows when the LOC may be clipping? i think thats what it should be for, but doubt its very accurate.

    Any ideas on what can be causing this issue? Should I adjust the gain settings? If so I believe I set the LOC gain settings first and then the amplifier if needed? I have no idea where to start, and hope its just a simple adjustment for the gain :[

    Thanks for any help!

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  12. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    Got the 12" hellion installed earlier today. Thought would take around 3 to 4 hours. But ended up taking 7 hours for amp install, LOC, sub into box, and box into trunk, tuned a bit and all good. The installer seems very knowledgable and super chill dude. I feel bad that it took so long... I was there just hanging out and talking with him throughout the whole thing and paying attention to learn some.

    Will post more pics tomorrow hopefully after work. I was suprised about how long it took to get through the firewall with a grommet. I guess the new acura TLX are not easy to do.

    Also that the installer tapped into the power and ground wires for the LOC into the amplifier. Will post pics. Also I know the BOOM logo is not visible with how i positioned the box, but its not a big deal. Looks nice with logo and matching colors, but I'd rather face the sub towards back of trunk instead of upwards.

    One other thing I learned about today was "box rise". The installer told me even though the amp is rated at 1000 W RMS at 1 ohm, and the subwoofer can handle 950 W RMS, that at times I will often not be getting the full power from the amp due to change in ohms from box rise? Any1 care to comment on this? Should I have actually gotten a 1500 W RMS amplifier to account for the change in ohm from box rise? Thanks!

    20190104_152122.jpg

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  14. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    So I have the LC2i LOC. It says to use a 1 to 2 amp fuse for the power.

    Is this really needed? Someone I spoke with told me they don't think its required because the fuse on main power should act as fuse. And if an issue occurred then it should pop the fuse on the main power line.

    Is that correct?

    Just wondering if I should go find a 1 amp fuses?

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  15. Posted

    3 hours ago, Tirefryr said:

    Each piece of equipment will have a positive run that comes from the battery, straight to the + side terminal.  There will be a ground that gets connected to the steel chassis, or directly back to the battery.  For the remote, this is a 12V trigger lead.  Basically, it's a voltage controlled switch that normally comes from the headunit.  When the unit comes on, it sends 12V down this wire into the equipment.  This is what tells it to turn on.  The amp and LOC will require this.  That particular LOC though has circuitry that enables it to sense voltage through the speaker wires that are used as a signal source for the input to the LOC.  These circuits are sometimes temperamental, so that means sometimes remote line is needed for input to assure the LOC turns on and off as it should.  Now this unit also provides an remote output switch as well.   The ONLY wire(s) that will go to the battery are the 12V positive inputs.  The remote should come from the headunit if possible.  If not, he will have to install a relay and wire it up to a circuit that comes on and goes off with the ignition.

    Wow thanks a lot for the answer there!

    Just to clarify, the remote line you are talking about in the beginning is the remote in? Which allows for the LOC to turn on.

    But what is the remote output switch for then?

    And you said the remote should come from the headunit if possible. This is the remote output? How would he get this from the headunit? After the wire goes from the stock amplifier thats in the car?

    Sorry for the questions, after you gave a great answer....

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  16. Posted

    13 hours ago, Tirefryr said:

    I think that's CHEAP.  I'd charge at least $120/ hr for my labor.  As for the LOC, it's not difficult at all.  He's just letting you know it may take a little more if the voltage sensor does not work properly.  I have yet to see a sensor in the home or 12V side that functions properly every time.  Either the electronics are too sensitive or not enough and you either have a unit that never shuts off, never turns on, or just flops all over. 

    Honestly, I'd talk to him and tell him you'd just like to have him run a switched lead to a relay to control the Audio Control and then use the remote out feature of it to turn the amp on.  This gives you a 12V switch you need and allows for timed on/off to eliminate any potential interference or voltage fluctuations.

    Thanks. So I guess 250 is a good price. He seemed to be familiar with LOC and the LC2i specifically and saying how he normally has issues with them. So he should be able to know about the install well.

    I am confused with how its hooked up then.... So the remote out feature for turn on is hooked up to the car's battery on the LOC and the amp? Each have their own 12V remote turn on wire to the battery, right? If thats what you are saying?

    But then the signal for the LOC should use the wire from the factory subwoofer? He mentioned something about how using this wire sometimes causes issues as well i think?

    Sorry for the confusion. Just bit lost on which wires go where, with LOC to Amplifier, from battery and the factory sub wire?

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  17. Posted

    Any1 had any experience with audio control products? Like their line output converters?

    I know its probably "easy" enough that I should install my own stuff. But with new car and in general I don't have a garage space or really any tools or previous experience, I don't want to risk messing something up. I would rather pay someone with experience and knowledge to do a good job.

    I was told from one shop owner that the LC2i are a pain to install because taping into the factory subwoofer doesnt always allow for a good enough signal to turn the LC2i on. And he ends up having to run a wire to the battery and troubleshoot other things often.

    For sub, amplifier, and LOC install I was quoted around 250. One other place quoted me at 150 for the install. But when speaking with owners the guy charging 250 seems much nicer and willing to explain stuff and help me. The place for 150 I went to several years back and was decently happy with their work, but they don't seem to like to explain stuff. Not very friendly people....

    So do you guys think 250 is an okay price? Seems a bit much, but he said would take 3 to 4 hours to install and thats around $75 an hour.

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  18. Posted

    7 hours ago, lithium said:

    if the auto sense feature doesn't work as it should than its trivial to run a remote wire to turn the lc2i and amp on. 

    the voltmeters are tacky garbage. Unless you listen to music to with sustained tones the meter wont show you quick transient dips in voltage. Just do The Big Three and use your ears and eyes when you're listening to music. A 1kw amp shouldn't be tooo bad for most vehicles I would think. 

    Just to clarify, when you said its trivial to run a remote wire to turn the lc2i and amp on, you mean its fine to do this and have it always on? I think I am bit confused about remote in and remote out lol.... both can be the remote wire you mentioned?

    Sorry still learning...

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  19. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    Edit: also curious... is a cigarette lighter voltmeter accurate or useful at all?

    Should I start new thread, or just ask here....?

    So one concern brought up is that with the LC2i it can stay powered on for longer than needed and potentially drain battery? How would be best to avoid this, assuming I still want to use the LC2i and not a passive LOC?

    I read this elsewhere, seems legit advice? :

    With direct power from the battery to the remote in, the LC2i is always on, and if your amp turn on lead is on the remote out of the LC2i as it should be, then your amp and LC2i never turn off. Power to the remote in on the LC2i negates the auto sense turn on feature of the LC2i.

    Your power and ground wire direct to the battery are fine. All power wires from the battery should be fused.

    You need to disconnect the remote in wire on the LC2i, and remove it from your vehicle if you want to take advantage of the auto on feature. If this feature does not work, then you need to locate a switched 12V power source and a wire from it to your remote in on the LC2i.

    A wire from the remote out of the LC2i to your amplifiers remote in should be connected, this is the only wire that should be connected to the remote in on your amplifier.

    Recap:
    Remote in: none
    Remote out: wire to remote in on amplifer
    + 12V: Direct connection to battery. Fuse wire within 18 inches of battery.
    Ground: direct to battery is fine, power and ground should be the same size. The ground does not need to be fused. Your LC2i and your amplifier should share the grounding point, if possible.

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  20. Posted

    Met with boomer, dude who makes the boomtown boxes. Nice dude, was really willing to talk about his box and car audio in general. I just had gotten out of almost 9 hour shift and needed to eat and take my girlfriend out, so didnt get too much time to talk with him. Cool how got special delivery cause hes nearby. Box looks great. I'll post pictures once I got the subwoofer in there with the matching colors!

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  21. Posted

    26 minutes ago, nem said:

    Awesome, can't wait to see this!

    I should probably add that the box is boomtown bt112 single 12" from this site. along with synergy audio efa 1k amplifier from here as well. got knukoncepts 0 guage amp kit with 0 to 4 guage reducers also made by knukoncepts to allow the wire to fit the amp.

    should get amp tomorrow.  and then just need the sub and box. feel like mentioning the box and amp is important along with the sub...

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  23. Posted

    23 minutes ago, Aaron Clinton said:

    The EFA 1k uses 4 gauge.  Yes, D2 subs can we wired in parallel to 1 ohm mono.  Yes, we can certainly do a combo discount. :)

    Cools thanks. Should I email you about the order? I am ready to order :]

    I asked on support chat phone. Told me to use 0 to 4 guage reducers then. Need 2 of them, 1 for power, and 1 for ground. And should still provide some benefit over just 4 guage amp wiring kit.

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  24. Posted · Edited by Florida_Audio

    50 minutes ago, Aaron Clinton said:

    Sean is correct, loads of brands throw the word "quality" around all the time, and the mass majority of the market doesn't take the time to really see if it's true.

    In this case, quality of the subwoofer is about the performance, the fit and finish, the end sound, does it do as described, and the people behind it (i.e. warranty/CS).  As for as sound, the Icon is, and has always leaned a little on the warmer side (thicker or more dense) of sound characteristics, due to the large copper coil and heavier cone body.  The Hellion is a little more neutral/drier of a sound than the Icon by a little.  That is just something you will pick up over time and countless different subs in different installs on different music.

    Thanks. I would like to order today hopefully. Just trying to finalize my plans.

    The Synergy EFA 1k can handle 0 guage wire for amp kit?

    The hellion 12, dual 2 ohm can be wired in parallel to be 1 ohm at the amp? So then I can use synergy efa 1k to do up to 1k rms at 1 ohm?

     

    Looking to get hellion 12" sub, Synergy Audio EFA 1k amplifier, and BoomTown BT112 Single 12" Speaker box.

    Is there a perhaps a combo discount for, subwoofer, subwoofer box, and amplifer? :]  Thanks again Aaron!

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