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About Xrc6

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    PC gaming, Wood working, general electronics, audio
  • Vehicle
    2012 Honda Fit hatchback

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  1. I just wanted a graph to see the frequency peaks and dips so I know if there is a range of frequencies that are too low that I'm missing. That and maybe to see if my setup has any cancellation or not but unsure how to do that. *edit: Also I don't know what a calibration file is but I doubt the mic has one. Not sure if I want to spend $50 + bucks just to use a mic once. However I like the keysmart amp though and it sounds great but I'm sure my sub has some cancellation due to the side firing port and bottom firing subs. And I'm sure there are some frequencies that are too low that I'm missing out on
  2. I'll use REW on my laptop. My question is can I use the omni directional microphone that came with my Kicker keysmart amp that is used to auto tweak it's built in DSP? My second question. I've never used REW before. Any tips/suggestions for the best settings/methods to measure my car's accoustics? Also should I turn off my Keysmart amp's DSP features first or will it matter? I just want a graph to see where the peaks and dips are in my frequency response. Final question. Can I measure for cancellation issues using REW?
  3. Already have everything else I need. New HU, 4 ch amp, speakers, sound deadening, baffle kit, DSP, all new wiring. Now I just need something that doesn't take up any use able room to fill out the lower frequencies. Hence the reason I asked about this Pioneer in comparison to an under-seat sub.
  4. $178 in Honda Fit. I already have C5 component so what do you suggest to reap me way better rewards?
  5. Lol what? What did that have to do with physics? I said I could not find the correct woofers with the right depth and T/S parameters to build a similar setup that would be as efficient with a low power amp. Where a company like Pioneer can actually design their own speakers for a specific design in mind. Plus the materials to construct a solid structure on top of the nearest 6.5" shallow put me at over 6 inches thick and about 98 spl @ 1 watt according to bassbox pro. Again that's just using a ported box. Now maybe if I could design a similar rear horn but even then it'll be no different and probably cost just as much. Dude it's two 6.5 inch woofers on 100 watts. What kind of expectations do you have in mind? This isn't about pounding 40 hz into a heart attack.
  6. It's also 33 inches long and 12 inches wide and is a Horn, not a ported enclosure. But the reason why I can't build such an enclosure because none of them will be near this efficient. Using a port or PR with an 86 db @1 watt woofer for a less than 200 watt amp will still cost me about as much to build and I'll have issues with Vent velocity and Group Delay is way too high and that's at these same dimensions. I already tried to simulate it and I certainly can't design a horn enclosure with BB Pro anyway nor am I that skilled at such. Then I had the problem of finding a shallow 6.5" woofer with high sensitivity so that I could use it for a low power amp along with the other T/S specs that will work for a similar sized ported box is another matter and having a final design where I achieve 110 db's in car sensitivity is unlikely unless I just go with some 500 watts of power and a sealed box but remember I drive a Honda with a 96 Amp Alt and a lawnmower battery. Where a company like Pioneer can actually design their own speakers for a specific design in mind and use dense resin wood materials and testing that would be more expensive and time consuming for me providing I can even find it in a store. Plus I assume they have experts that can design a higher efficient horn loaded enclosure and they do have Andrew Jones on staff so that amounts to something of their expertise vs mine. Besides I don't know who you think I am but I'm no basshead. I don't need to thump or flex panels I just want to fill out the frequency range that the components in my doors aren't very good at and figured this can't be worse. All I know is that it has excellent reviews on Amazon so it's worthwhile to some and I'm probably the type that's one of them since I don't care that much about audio while driving down the road. However your suggestion of designing "Monster" mid-bass in a Honda fit made me laugh though. I have JL Audio C5's and sound deadner and that's about as Monster as any mid-bass is likely to get in the doors of a Honda.
  7. Yeah it's probably no Cornu CS but follows the rear horn loaded concept all the same. Can't be worse than an 8 inch sub inside a . 0.094 ft3 sealed box under the seat. The only physical attraction to this particular one is that it's thin and you can put stuff on top of it without losing any real actual floor space. Everything else I looked at or even calculated in Bass Box Pro will be too thick to be very useful for loading stuff in and out of my trunk. Now I used to have a Sundown setup that I built myself and my attempt there was to create my own custom method of quick removal. The idea was that if I needed to use the trunk I could just pull a plug and set the box in my garage then put it back later. So I used a 220 volt Male/Femal plug that accepted 4 guage wire and used that as my quick release plug along with quick release pins holding the box down and an MTX Elite amplifier built inside the box. I even added handles to the sides however the damn thing was so heavy that pulling it out required me to do some stretching and pump some weights first to psych myself out for what was practically a max deadlift competition. So I pitched that. I then tried desiging the thinnest enclosure I could out of BB Pro but it was still 6 inches thick with the wood and even 1/2" birch wasn't going to make enough difference. So then I just got a Bazooka tube and actually was really happy with it. It sounds pretty damn good for $99 but I can't stack anything on it and have to be somewhat careful when lugging in the kids sports junk or a stroller or the wife's crap....you get what I mean. But this Pioneer is under 4 inches thick and broad enough that laying stuff on it won't be an issue since that's what it's designed for. I worry any 8" inch under-seat sub directly under my seat will sound too muddy. I'm sure that the design and marketing of this system was directly intended for us middle aged mom's and dad's out there that no longer put audio first.
  8. Ok thanks. Yeah I figured with it being a horn enclosure that the sound quality is likely pretty good but ya never know. But it's the 110db@1 watt efficiency over a typical under-seat sub that peaks my interest. That's usually getting into dual chamber bandpass territory. I'm pretty sure that if Pioneer released this with a $200 price tag to begin with then they probably would have sold a lot better than they did. I don't get why companies make these unique types of products but price them out of the range that people would want to try it out and within a couple of years they are forced to discontinue them.
  9. I have a small car and having a family and all that am currently trying to use smaller and smaller audio solutions to maximize space to the point where I really don't even want a subwoofer in my trunk anymore. I really don't need very much bass, just something to fill out the lower end but I want an all in one sub so that I don't have to use anymore space for an amp, etc. So I know under-seat subs are not discussed nor recommended here but I was about to pull the trigger on one and then noticed that the Pioneer TS-WX70DA is now under $200 and it's a loaded horn design. But what interested me in this particular one is the below picture showing how thin it is and that you can stow your stuff on top of it. So I know it's gonna sound weak compared to a hand built setup but what I wanted to know is would it likely sound better than any of the under-seat subs on the market or has anyone here heard this thing in person? I just need a little something to fill out the bottom end but not sound muddy which is how I'm afraid an under-seat sub will sound. I'm thinking maybe with it being a loaded horn design that it might be efficient enough. .
  10. Whatever the case, outside of competing, I fail to see the point for turning audio in a car to rocket science. You're listening to music you enjoy while driving A to B and all the basic information from gauge of wire to buy to the use of fast rings is shoved in your face before you even enter your credit card info anyway . Why anyone would max out their volume and push every watt they can I don't give a crap to know but for whatever it's worth, I have a cheap $50 O-scope and 10x probes. Aside from the millions of other handy uses such a thing has, I use -5 db 1000khz tone for fronts and -10 db 40hz tone for subs to use as a foundation to start with. Find the distortion level on my HU which becomes my max volume, set gains on amp then adjust by ear listening to my loudest music tracks. Top it off with a little time alignment, a sprinkle of EQ adjustment and ending it with a f***it by keeping my volume within moderate levels, loud enough to drown out traffic but not so loud that I can't hear EMS/Cop vehicles and turning it down when I"m at a stop light or in my neighborhood. Basically just common sense use of music listening without being a douschebag. I further that by not showing off my system or telling anyone I have anything. I added Clark Synthesis tactile transducers attached to my front seats just to augment my subwoofer so I don't feel the need to push my subs so deep that everyone within sight can spot me out but I can reap the benefits of feeling it more with less SPL. The fewer people that know I have something expensive in my car, the longer I get to keep it because it's for my audio pleasure only. But it sounds really nice inside the car without having to reverse engineer sound waves and attempt to bend the laws of physics to achieve it.
  11. Xrc6

    cheap basic o scope

    I normalized my entire music library for my car to -5db's using Platinum Notes and used -5db test tone and bought the DSO 112A and some better leads for $70. Worked out great. That way I had a more predominant means to prevent clipping than using my 41 year old ears, especially if I ever decided to indulge in Bandpass for kicks. I also went to a website that tests your hearing so I can make a make a graph to illustrate where my hearing starts to roll off and which frequencies that I perceived as being the loudest or to say that I'm most sensitive to. I think that plays a big role in ones audio bias. After I measured my car's acoustics I focused more on the frequencies I'm most sensitive to using my DSP and adjusted frequencies I'm least sensitive to and cut off the ones I can't hear anyway....then I readjusted my gains since I had to raise a number of frequencies. That helped tremendously for me fine tuning a sound signature that I prefer the most. A lot of audio knobs like to talk about how they only want to hear it as the artist intended..etc imo is nonsense when you consider that a lot of audio engineers in the studio don't have golden ears, some aren't very good at their job and how much $ a studio wants to invest is a major part of how the end result is going to be. That plus given the environment of a vehicle is why I personally process all my music to make it easier to have my entire collection cater to my individual taste.
  12. Xrc6


    I have 360.3. Personally never had any issues with it, worked perfectly.
  13. So when M5 said it's just the tip of the iceberg he meant it's the whole iceberg. Lol, that's pretty much what I thought.
  14. Because I had a limited question which was answered in first response. Thanks. Then what's the lower 3/4's of the iceberg that apparently doesn't involve tuning individual channels for better imaging?