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Jimi77

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About Jimi77

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  1. As the others said it's really dependent on the enclosure. Assuming you build an optimal enclosure for whatever subs you're using, then cone area usually wins out in sealed enclosures and power handling in ported enclosures, but that's painting with a really broad brush. When you're talking hitting ridiculous SPL numbers, those guys are testing multiple boxes, controlling panel flex and just moving the microphone around slightly will can have a huge effect. If you're just looking for a unreasonably loud ground pounder, then I'd build a ported enclosure on the large side of the manufacture's recommendations (maybe larger) and tune somewhere between ~32-42hz depending on how loud you want to get and how much low end you're willing sacrifice to get there. As you tune higher, it'll get louder, but the tuning frequency becomes more and more dominate.
  2. I'm not sure what they're doing. I guess it could alter the impedance curve slightly which could slightly increase power handling. In the end the thermal/RMS rating is determined by how the coil was constructed (and to a smaller degree the basket, pole vent and other construction considerations). There is nothing that you can really do to make that coil take more power.
  3. Thermal is the RMS rating. The mechanical is Xmech which isn't often disclosed. Mechanical is when you bottom out or otherwise exceed the mechanical limits of the sub (tinsel lead slap would be another common one). You cannot "increase" the RMS rating by putting the sub in a smaller enclosure. You can make it less likely that you'll reach the sub's mechanical limits by putting in a smaller enclosure.
  4. Subs have a thermal rating, if you exceed that for an extended period of time, you'll toast the coil. That thermal rating is independent of the enclosure. The smaller enclosure will act as a "heavier" air spring, which can increase mechanical power handling, but won't increase thermal power handling.
  5. The aiming doesn't look bad to me, but it's hard to say without actually sitting in the vehicle. Where are you crossing and what midbass driver are you using? What amp? Based on your post, I'm guessing you fried those tweeters by pushing them too hard to overcome road noise. A higher crossover point can help with power handling. If you need more volume from the tweeter, you may have look at other options. One option would be use multiple tweeters, kinda like a line array. IIRC, with a dual tweeter set-up you want to LP one of the tweeters at ~8khz to avoid comb filtering. Maybe a large format tweeter that can handle more power.
  6. Ssa tweets?

    Yeah, I was misusing the term. Tweeters truly on-axis is pretty rare in car audio.
  7. Ssa tweets?

    Depends. With heavy metal, on-axis can be problematic, especially with the driver's side tweeter. I guess by on-axis, what I really mean is aimed toward the imagery listening position between the where the driver and passenger sit. Semi-on-axis I guess.....
  8. Ssa tweets?

    The midbass is going in the door. The tweeter will go in the a-pillar, it may be on or off axis depending on how testing works when I get the actual tweeter in hand. I suspect I'll end up on-axis, especially if I go with the NVX ring radiator tweeter; the Alpine & Vifa Xt's definitely sounded better on-axis. I've done enough installs to know that a lower crossover point will prevent rainbowing and the stage pulling to the passenger side. Ideally, I'd cross at ~300hz, but I do want to keep the car looking stock and running multiple drivers in the a-pillar location presents some fabrication challenges, drives up the cost, etc. A few years ago I wouldn't hesitate to take on the project, but now that I have kids, I have less time and money to dedicate to car audio. At least I still have my Pioneer p9 combo so I have pretty significant processing power.
  9. Ssa tweets?

    Thanks a bunch.
  10. The crossover point in that set's passive crossover is 4khz, so I'd try and stick close to that for the sake of the tweeter. If you're having some sort response problem, then I'd start with a phase and intensity alignment. http://www.caraudioforum.com/showthread.php?p=2162489#post2162489
  11. Ssa tweets?

    It may be a biased vote, but at least it's a knowledgeable one.
  12. Ssa tweets?

    When I said ~1200hz I was referring to the Aura. If I got the SB/NVX, I'd probably go ~1600-2khz. Where are you crossing the SB at? Since heat may play a factor in the dimple detaching, do you park in the sun often and how long have you had them? While we're at it, how do like the Evil 6.5? Any signs of break up at higher frequencies? Does it sound hot, forward or bright (like a Focal or ID CX) or more laid back and warm like a Dyn or Morel. Thanks a bunch guys.
  13. Ssa tweets?

    I'd probably cross the Aura's higher (~600hz - 1.2khz), but I really don't want to go 3 way up front. I know I'd have to get the Aura's on-axis or the top end will suffer.
  14. Ssa tweets?

    Where do you have them crossed???
  15. Ssa tweets?

    Anybody got these installed yet? How low can you cross them? I'm looking for some tweeters. I'm between the Seas Neo and the 2" Aura Whisper at the moment. I know the Aura is really a wideband driver, but it should easily handle the lower crossover point I'm seeking. Tweeter will go in the A-pillar and I'm not sure how on/off axis it will be, but I'll figure that out once I have the tweeters in hand. I'd like to cross at 2khz or lower (300-500hz would be great, but then my A-pillar project becomes a little more challenging). A few people have crossed the Seas low, but it seems like most people cross them at ~2.5khz or higher. Obviously the Aura Whisper can be crossed low, but it'll take more effort to get them on-axis and I'll have to fabricate some sort of grill. The NVX/SB Acoustics tweeter could work, but I've read about the dimple detaching. I have an old P9, so I have a 36db crossover available. Can the Evil tweeter get that low? This will be an SQ oriented install.
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