Tidbit96

Damn thanks for that man lol the messed up part is that I already knew this but I ordered my Bassrocker from Amazon when it was on a major sale so when I received it, like an anxious kid on Christmas Eve I had to IMMEDIATELY go install it to see how it looks & if it'll fit where I'd planned putting it & quite honestly just totally over looked that part... Wasn't even aware of the Fuse size til'shortly after installing it & taking 1 last look at it... I appreciate your advice & for reminding me of something I once had known... I'll have to order a smaller 100Amp ANL fuse for it or something....1 more quick question for you tho...since my amplifier has a total of 120Amperes worth of fuses in it.... does that mean the 100Amp fuse won't be large enough or will 100Amp fuses be sufficient for my setup? Thanks again for that kick in the ass wake up I was apparently in need of lol much appreciated

Is there a better option? I've always been of the belief that this was, if anything, at the very least, the safest configuration to use when setting up a system that includes a 2ndary battery for it's power source... Am I miss informed? Do you know of a better option? I don't know if I mentioned y Im putting one in, but it's in hopes of fixing some major headlight dimming I'm experiencing at night....is there a different option I could use that might be cheaper or quicker, or easier? Oh & to completely answer your question, I was told that using this isolator will give me the piece of mind that the main engine batt. Will never accidentally be drained for any reason, accident or what so ever....? Do you think I'm missing a better option I could utilize in order to attend to this problem? Thanks for any feedback

(System: Orion Cobalt 3500.1 w/ Soundqubed HDS 15" 1200RMS Sub & Stinger 80Amp isolator) Hey y'all, I ain't been on for bit cuz 99% of my system build/install's done, just few small tweaks, but bout to be all finished after installing 2nd batt. & Isolator to hopefully help some dimming & other small electrical anomalies...but, I found myself unfortunately participating in a YouTube comment section debate & began to 2nd guess my choice of isolator size. A YouTuber said his 40Amp isolator did great w/his 2000W amp set up, when a "keyboard cowboy"/YouTube troll stated, "this is impossible cuz watts come from volts x amps & 12x40 is 480 not 2000" I already knew of this "formula" So to speak, but Isn't this idiot just using the wrong Amp # in his calculation? Like my amp has 3 x 40amp fuses equaling 120 & also, don't most charging systems run couple volts over 12 when running? Mine stays between 13.7 - 13.9 til'I crank on the window rattler and start bumping lol... so my ? is, I have a stinger 80Amp isolator for my 2ndary batt. Will this be sufficient for my setup? This fool suddenly caused me to worry this wouldn't be enough to keep my 2ndary batt. Charged enough to correctly power my setup? Can anyone give me there opinions on this? I'd greatly appreciate any advice. Since Im already writing this I may as well ask 1 more ? For my peace of mind. Regarding the 2nd batt. & Isolator install so I know I'm doing it right. I currently use a BASS ROCKER fuse box w/200Amp ANL fuse...So I leave this where it is but run THAT length of PWR to the isolator right, then do I need to fuse the 2nd run of PWR wire going to the 2ndary batt. too? & Then surely I'd need to fuse the 3rd run of wire since IT will then be the final run of PWR going to my Amp correct? Now if this is correct I'll need 2 more fuses/boxes which I have but the extras I have are the cheap round fuse boxes w/100Amp "ANS?" fuses. Are these fuses going to be sufficient for my setup? Is there a better order to put them, like I said the box I'm using is a 200Amp ANL fuse. I thought it might be better if I use it in my last run from 2ndary batt. to Amplifier... & the other 2 x 100Amp fuses in the latter runs...any thoughts? Any advice Id greatly appreciate, fellow bass lovers! Thanks again for all the help Ive received from every SSA forum member during my system build & install....This has always been my favorite audio forum when I need quick, good, & correct solutions to any of my audio issues so thanks everyone & Bump on SSA!

Yeah sry my phone kept messing up & wouldn't let me add any I tried like heck but it just kept messing up! But thanks for the reply... but in regards to these Amps, as I mentioned both the 2500.1D and my new 3500.1D have the same 120amp total? So am I right in saying that this means there both basically the same wattage producing amplifiers? Regardless of the fact one is a 2500.1D & the other is a 3500.1D & regardless of the fact that manufacturers spec's say one is rated 1250RMS@1OHM & The other is rated 1650RMD@1OHM? or are there other factors involved that might make these differences in manufacturers spec's actually possible &/or True specs?

Sry guys my phone keeps Fu¢|<in up so I accidentally posted this twice while trying to add my pictures but apparently I am too stupid to figure out how to add pictures lol but for an example I measured the 2 amps & the width is the same but the 2500.1 is nearly 2" longer & feels significantly heavier than the 3500.1.... but I just wanted to let you know why I posted twice & that it's the same reason I was unable to add the pics I mentioned. Thanks again for any input on this shitty situation I've found myself in again

I have always been told that a fairly good way of judging the output of an Amp just off 1st glance is to take the total amount of all the fuses & multiplying this by 10 will give you a rough estimate of the RMS output of said Amp? Is this a true statement by chance or have I been misled in some way? I ask because recently I had an Orion Cobalt CB2500.1D pushing my 1200RMS 15" Soundqubed sub but after roughly a yr it shot craps on me, stopped sounding good & after 10 or 15 minutes it would start kicking in & out of protection mode...I looked around for a new replacement but after seeing what the market had to offer me at my budget price I ended up getting another Cobalt I just jumped up to the 3500.1D which obviously would have a higher RMS rating. The pictures of the 3500.1 showed it having 4x40amp fuses which would be 160x10= 1600RMS which is what my 3500.1 is rated at according to the specs. But after receiving my 3500.1 I found it only has 3x40amp fuses which is only 120 which my 2500.1 had 4x30amp fuses which is ALSO 120?! I made sure I got the right Amp immediately & of course it is the 3500.1.... so can anyone help me out with this? Does this mean I basically got the same 2500.1 just the logos on the Amp are phony? Or have I just been mistaken by the quick solvable math equation I've been using all this time to get a rough estimate of output? I'm including pictures of the differences of each amp too so you can see what I mean also notice how much larger the 2500.1 is then the 3500.1 & they aren't more than 1 to 1&1/2 years difference between there manufactured dates.... thanks for any input or info y'all can help me out with!

I have always been told that a fairly good way of judging the output of an Amp just off 1st glance is to take the total amount of all the fuses & multiplying this by 10 will give you a rough estimate of the RMS output of said Amp? Is this a true statement by chance or have I been misled in some way? I ask because recently I had an Orion Cobalt CB2500.1D pushing my 1200RMS 15" Soundqubed sub but after roughly a yr it shot craps on me, stopped sounding good & after 10 or 15 minutes it would start kicking in & out of protection mode...I looked around for a new replacement but after seeing what the market had to offer me at my budget price I ended up getting another Cobalt I just jumped up to the 3500.1D which obviously would have a higher RMS rating. The pictures of the 3500.1 showed it having 4x40amp fuses which would be 160x10= 1600RMS which is what my 3500.1 is rated at according to the specs. But after receiving my 3500.1 I found it only has 3x40amp fuses which is only 120 which my 2500.1 had 4x30amp fuses which is ALSO 120?! I made sure I got the right Amp immediately & of course it is the 3500.1.... so can anyone help me out with this? Does this mean I basically got the same 2500.1 just the logos on the Amp are phony? Or have I just been mistaken by the quick solvable math equation I've been using all this time to get a rough estimate of output? I'm including pictures of the differences of each amp too so you can see what I mean also notice how much larger the 2500.1 is then the 3500.1 & they aren't more than 1 to 1&1/2 years difference between there manufactured dates.... thanks for any input or info y'all can help me out with!

Thanks for the suggestion.... I've double & triple checked my wiring & I can't see that anything is wrong.... like I said I've had it for 8 or 9 months & it worked decently the entire time until one day it just started doing this..... another forum member told me that he owned an Orion Amp once that did literally the exact same thing mine just started to do & he ended up having to have it repaired professionally..... so I'm hoping it's just the same situation as he had because, although I'm not a professional installation man, I've installed well over a couple dozen systems & I understand how everything works for the most part, I've nvr had any issues like this before at least.... If you have any ideas or opinions on something that I may have missed or did wrong, I'm open to any suggestions &/or opinions.... Thanks for your reply though

Right on thanks I'll check it out, you know the RMS rating of this Amp by chance? & What, if you don't mind me asking, do you have your US Acoustics amp pushing? Does it handle it pretty easily? Does it get very hot when you're pushing it pretty tough? & Does this Amp by chance have a clipping warning light like the Soundqubed Amps have? I appreciate your input very much! Will definitely check it out!

Recently my Orion Amp I had, pushin a Soundqubed HDS3.1-15" rated 1200RMS, crapped out! I'm lookin for replacement that's affordable & CAPABLE of rated 1200RMS needed to really experience my Soundqubed. I paid $125 for my Orion 2500.1D & it was rated 1200RMS @1ohm but I doubt it ever made that. I thought 1200RMS for $125 seemed too good to be true. I know I'm not goin back that route, so I'm curious of opinions on Amps under the $200 mark that I can afford & hopefully won't crap out after 9mons like my Orion & hopefully produce 1200RMS. I have a few options/manufacturers that I'm looking at that I'll list, plz give any opinions you have bout these Amps/Manufacturers I list, also plz feel free to make suggestions of possible choices that aren't listed it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Amps/manufacturers currently debating on: *Precision Power PPI Ice 2600.1 *Skar RP 1200.1D/1500.1D *Audiopipe APMI mini D 1500w/2000w *Hifonics Zeus series 1216.1/1816.1D &/or Brutus series 1516.1D *American Bass Ph1600md &/or VFLHYBRID2800.1D These are just some of the few manufacturers I've looked at due to there reasonable prices, high enough rating for my needs, & good ratings on Amazon Prime. However, 80%-90% of the comments/reviews written on Amazon appear to be written by ppl who all seem to be EXTREMELY ignorant in regards to audio installation so I don't really trust those ratings so any input from anyone who knows what they're talking about like most everyone in here does Id appreciate greatly! Thanks for any help.

Lol, thanks for the reply man, I was under the same assumption as that myself but surely you know how the YouTube comment section is, its over run w/ rocket scientists & ppl w/ MULTIPLE engineering degrees just cruising the videos dying to tell others how smart they are & how dumb the rest of us are... I'm assuming this is where that myth originated since it's where I first heard it, TWICE if you can believe it lol.... Well thanks for the information regarding my issue man! This forums been a Big big help compared to the YouTube comment section lol.

Hey man, Thanks for reply, I was affraid that was the issue.... I have 1 more ? for ya, soon I plan 2buy a matchin Soundqubed Amp to push it & monitor the clipping, til' then I have an extra cheap $100 Walmart bought Power Acoustics Razor Amp... of course it won't produce anywhere near the 1200 RMS that my HDS is rated, but do you know is it harmful to run it on insufficient power like that even if it's for just a short amount of time? I'll be able to get my Soundqubed Amp in 2-3 weeks so it would be just a short time...but some1 once told me runnin insufficient power to a sub can cause issues w/ Subwoofer so if this is true I'll just tough it out w/o bass for next few weeks....thought I'd ask if you had any idea if this is true or not. Thanks again though man for the reply I really appreciate it!

So, just so I know I heard everything right, your saying Adire Audio are coming back to the game finally? But did I also read correct, its not the same owner but someone who acquired the company after purchasing it from the original owner?!? Well aslong as they're reopening, cuz this would be a dream come true 4me!! I F*ING LOOOVED every adire audio product I ever purchased! In highschool, my junior yr, a friend & I built 2 systems,(both were our 1st systems we ever owned) 1 for my truck & 1 for his, He had 2 12"shivas on just a wimpy little sony explode 1200 I believe, & I put a single 15" Tempest paired w/ a Rockford punch 900 monoblock., Although my friend would never admit it, my tempest was obviously the victor of the 2 systems....paired w/ that punch 900 WOW, no joke that single $150.00 Beast of a Budget Tempest woofer would straight rattle street lights when we'd cruise main street after Friday night football games....we had friends w/ insanely expensive top shelf systems from JL, Alpine, Kicker etc.... & no joke, there was no reason to even compete with any of those systems, you could tell from a block away that there were always 2 systems that stood night and day above the rest! I hate sounding like 1 of those cocky shits that thinks everything they own is the best but I swear im not, but anyone who knows anything about adire audio or who have ever owned any of there products should already know that's not me bragging it was just simple fact....Adire was light years ahead of the competition back in those days, atleast in my honest opinion there wasn't a manufacture that existed in those days, (99'-03') that could go toe to toe with adires woofers in regards to the Output, SQ, combined with nearly thrift store like prices on their products, sure there were better subs I suppose but your wallet better be thick as shit, infact youd most likely need a man purse to purchase quality like those guys anywhere else!!!! Dang sorry for the rattling on & on there but if this news is correct I'm freakin Pumped! If it is, however, a different owner I just hope they can continue the Adire Audio Legacy by manufacturing products that embarrass every other manufacturer & that the most embarrassing part about it all is when you look at the price tag & wonder if you stumbled into a GOODWILL store by accident somehow lol! LONG LIVE ADIRE AUDIO!!! PLZ DON'T LET THIS BE FAKE NEWS! LOL You'll once again have a life long customer here the moment the 1st shiva, tempest, or better yet Brahma, hit the shelf! Best of Luck!

This is the video I took in order to help show what my exact problem is I'm dealing w/ currently....if ANYONE has seen this type of behavior in any Amps OR ESPECIALLY if anyone's had an Orion that acted up like this I'd be very great full for any help or suggestions.. thank you! Much appreciated! YouCut_20181013_000700427.mp4

Really? I was bout at my last option which was, it HAS to be the Amp.... It was kinda in the back of my mind the whole time, the behavior just didn't resemble loose wire/connections...at 1st it seemed like the logical explanation from the way it 1st behaved...but I've now pulled out my sub 3 times rewiring it more securely every time & checked every other connection short of completely dismantling the entire system & starting over....my opinion began 2change quickly after the first time I rewired my sub & wires from box to Amp & turned it back on, it thumped so/so for 10-15 minutes, not as well as it did when first installed it, so I wasn't surprised when, not long after turning it on, it cut back out, only this time I could hear it lightly popping from my trunk so I left it on & popped the trunk to look at the Orion while it was still on & found it flashing from red(protection) back to blue in almost a rhythm or a constant beat like sound which would cause my sub to make a popping sound from the quick power surges in & out..... so I was pretty much at the same conclusion as what you mentioned.... does that resemble, at all, the behavior of your Orion by chance? I really appreciate the response though man, as much as it sux, the same time it's a relief to finally hear that I am not the 1st person who has experienced this with an Orion Amp. If you get a chance can you shoot me 1 more msg & let me know if this resembles your incident, much appreciated Brotha man! Big big help!