ndnbolla

the subs are each d2s. i wired each pair (2 pairs total) to a 2 ohm load which was then bridged at the amp to give a final 1 ohm load to the amp. about the fuse thing, the amp uses 4 30A fuses. that could clear things up, if not just ask more questions.

so i fried something in the amp, i think they are called the output transistors. i have pics if any one is intersted i can send a pm. here's the story: so tonight, i am finally exited to get my subs into the car and start wangin. let me tell you what happened before tonight though. about a week or so ago, i already had my box completed (not finished though) me and my bro went out to test it with the nine.1. we tried it facing up first and it was working fine, then we decided to test it facing the rear and it still no problems. then I wanted to try facing up one more time. this time, I heard something pop as soon as I turned it on and then all four 30 amps blew. one more thing I would like to add is that at this testing; the amp kept on going into protect but this is because the speaker wire was overstripped at the terminals so the + and - kept touching. But I fixed that, no problem. So tonight.... we go to finally put it in after I replace the 4 fuses. All speaker wiring is perfectly connected, all settings on amp are lowest possible. Go ahead and turn on the h/u, I was exited to hear my bro say, "Green Light ON", 2 seconds later, "oh, went away", another 2 seconds, "damn, there go the fuses again". So then after realizing that it could be the fact I am not disconnecting the negative battery terminal, I rush to pick up a bunch more fuses. Connect everything back up, and this time the green light on the amp is flickering as a low rumble are coming from the subs (4 9kv.2s), (even though the gains are all the way down). about 5-7 seconds later, pop. someone mentioned disconnecting everything except the ground and the power wire on the amp and then just do a jump from the power wire to the rem terminal (since all rem needs is a 12v power source right). i did this and so here i am, with a slightly fried amp. however, this time the fuses didn't blow. the amp is packaged up right now and ready to use that warranty i have; however i want to find out what caused the fuses to blow and how to fix this problem. does it have anything to do with my speaker wiring?

Basically, I just wanted to know if you would have to supply the same amount of power to a subwoofer to recieve the same performance from it whether it is in a Home Theatre (HT) setup or a car audio (CA) setup. Lets take the RL-S for example (seems to be the popular sub out right now which could be used in both applications), If we supplied the RL-S with 1500 watts of power with a caraudio amp such as one from MTX, and then we took the same RL-S and powered it with 1500 watts from a HT type amp such as one from the QSC PLX series, would the RL-S perform the same, assuming all other variables are the same. Or could you use a lesser powered HT amp and have an identical performance to that of a higher powered CA amp. I was just wondering since it has been something that was in the back of my head for some time now.

oh of course i am not going to give 600w to each of em. i just wanted to point out that thats how much i could give since they will be powered by a nine.1. now the only question is which one would be better for me, 2 13Ov.2's or 2 12" RL-I's? i am looking for LSQ and I do know that the Ov.2's can be cheaper than the RL-I's via the discount. Both are exceptional SQ subs but which one would get louder? I know many people don't like eD much but dont turn this into a flame war plz. Anyone here ever hear both?

sorry about reviving the thread but how would you compare a 12" rl-i to a 12" 2004 Type R? both receiving 600 watts max. type r=1 cu. ft. rl-i=ideal enclosure KK07 is selling these and i'm am thinking of getting them. If I don't get these then I'll probably go with 13Ov.2's. so what do you guys think? help me choose!

noooooooo.... ah well, i deserve it for waiting two months after this thread was created.

scratch the amp idea... someone recommend me a good pair of 6.5's from this store. They can be speakers/coaxials/components that can run off of a Pioneer 860mp (22wx4 rms) without any amp and will sound better than stock speakers. it would be nice if they came with tweeters too. one set would be for the doors and the other set would be for the mid panels. oh and can someone send me one of those spec sheets/pricing catalog? email is ndnbolla@hotmail.com. thx, id really appreciate it.

hey eric, you think he might have some vr 1.500's. I know you already said that he probably has some of everything so i'll email him about it. His email was maxima1@ameritech.net right?, yep it is. Hopefully he still have some left in stock. You think the vr 1.500 would be good enough for two rl-p 12's? It does 2000 watts at 1 Ohm however i'm not sure if it over rated or under rated.

I myself didn't just jump on the bandwagon. I started to like SS once i saw mrray's post about the rl-p vs. xxx back at the ca.com s few months ago. I also loved how clean they looked back then and they look even cleaner now. I planned on getting the 2 10" rl-i's (small mounting depth) and then putting them behind the tailights and all flush in a fiberglass enclosure. Then I thought that would take too much time of which I don't have. So then I thought maybe I'll just get a 12W6v2 (awesome SQ which is what I am going for) and save myself a hassle buy just putting it in a sealed enclosure. But I realized I wanted something a little louder and so you know what I ended up with. Plus the fact that Mike appreciates all of his business and makes the customer first made the decision even easier.

excellent, i'll be sure to give denim a pm as soon as i get the car and the rest of the info he will need if he does build it.

Acidburn got it!, I do live in Mass. To be more specific, 01801 is the zipcode. Depth: -Once I get my tC, I am going to measure the slope of the slant of the tC's back seats. Therefore I would like the back of this box to have the same slope leaving it parallel to the seats. - The max I would like the base to be would be around 11" giving roughly 4" of clearance for the rl-p's. However it would be nice if it could be smaller. Height: -Well i'm not sure but as long as the other two dim. requirements are met i'll be happy. How would I pay you ask? Well I don't have a paypal account however if I must create one I will. Whatever way the builder would like to be paid I will try to get it paid that way. Timeframe? Well I'm not exactly sure but I'll bump this post when I find out. I am planning everything out now for my future car which I should be getting within a month. So I guess you can say I would like the box to be done within a month+1 week so I can install the system within a week of receiving the car. So who should I PM? And exactly who is Aaron? Cheap shipping is always good... I had to pay around 50 to get my previous enclosure shipped from Texas. So how do you think the price sounds?... Too high, too low?

I have decided that I will be getting two 12" RL-Ps (D4) and will be putting them each in a 1.3 cu. ft. enclosure with each of them getting atleast 600 rms (1200x1 at 1 Ohm with nine.1) Thanks for everyone who helped and maybe some of you will help me some more in designing/building a box in another thread I created:

So now that I have chosen the subs that I want, they will need a home. Here are the requirements I would like for them: -Sealed -The NET internal volume should be 1.3 cu. ft. I am not sure what the displacement of the RL-Ps will be so if anyone could share plz do... -I would like the box to be exactly the width of 36" externally. This is so the box will take up the whole width of my trunk (going in a Scion tc). -I would like for the subs to be flushmounted in this box. -Two terminals on the back -I would prefer Dark Grey carpeting, not regular grey. If this can't be met I will settle for Black carpeting. And I guess thats it. I hope to do business with you and I cross my fingers that this stays at or under $100 unshipped.

well the 1 Ohm thing isn't that big of an issue. At a 2 Ohm load the Nine.1 can give out 900w which should be good for the rl-p right? Personal preference, sq is more important to me than spl. However... Currently my brother and I share a vehicle and he bought two 12" Type R's (the 04 models). They are powered by a nine.1 and seem pretty loud in their ~1 cu ft. each enclosure. Now I am about to get my own car and plan to get a system for it. We can get very competitive at times and so what I want is a sub that oust those two subs for the same price in SQ and SPL. So if I were to port or even keep it sealed the one RL-P 12" and feed it 900w could it out do those damned Type R's.

i was thinking of getting one 12w6v2 and putting it in a sealed enclosure of about 1.25 cu. ft. This would be powerd by a nine.1 at a 2 ohm load giving a max of 900w, I will probably give it much less by adjusting gains. however now i am thinking of getting one 12" rl-p. what type of enclosure would you recommend to get the best sq out of this beast. would this sq match that of the 12w6v2 or get even close? by the way the 12" rl-p will be wired in a 1 ohm load to a nine.1 which could give it a max of 1200w but I probably wont give it that much. also can I assume that the 1 12" rl-p will have greater SPL then 1 12W6v2 when placed in similiar situations?