MJS_IraggiAlts

Would like to get some feedback on what makes folks make the final decision on the alternator manufacturer they choose to go with for their alternator purchase..

What type of vehicle do you have jcarter?

Hi All! My name is Melissa Stephens with Iraggi Alternator and I just wanted to post a message to introduce myself. I started working with Iraggi in August 2015. I am the Director of Operations, CFO and CTO. I also handle all website building/maintenance, Facebook business page, customer emails/messages/complaints, accounting, quotes and so much more. Now Dominick Iraggi has time to just focus on building great alternators! I have completely restructured Iraggi Alternator. I am also a member of several groups which have gone really well. I would love an opportunity to show anyone who may have heard or had a bad experience at one time to check us out on our new Facebook Business Page and Google Business Page. I want nothing more than to continue to rebuild the Iraggi name and provide the BEST customer service and products we possibly can. I have also restructured the pricing and benefits that are included with all alternators too! I would love the opportunity to help anyone I can, even if they don't have an Iraggi Alt. I regularly post tips, advice and information related to car audio, alternators and other info in that general area, so please check it out! Thanks everyone for taking the time to read this post https://www.facebook.com/iraggialternators/ https://www.facebook.com/iraggialternators/reviews/ https://g.page/r/CXLoms3PAQ0vEAg/review https://www.facebook.com/iraggialternators/photos https://www.iraggialternator.com/quote melissa@iraggialternator.com - my email m.me/melissajstephens - my direct contact

Sorry so long. Thought this would be a good share. Email received from XS Power: Thanks for contacting us regarding the proper way to charge sealed lead acid (AGM) type batteries like the ones we produce. Unlike conventional lead acid batteries, AGM batteries are completely sealed, meaning that all of the gas and electrolyte is safely stored inside the battery. In order to keep AGM batteries in good health, and to maximize their performance and life expectancy, it is important to properly charge and maintain them. Leaving a battery (conventional or sealed) in a low state of charge over a long period of time is bad for the battery because it allows the electrolyte the opportunity to crystalize, or dry out directly on the surface of the lead plates of the battery. Once this material (lead sulfate) is produced, the battery loses its capacity and performance, and the charge acceptance of the battery is greatly reduced. More importantly is making sure that when the battery is being recharged, either in a vehicle, or with a battery charger, that the charging voltage is not too high, relative to the ambient temperature around the battery. On a daily basis, when customers ask us what voltage to charge their battery, our standard response is 14.4V, but as you can see in the illustration below, the optimal charging voltage really depends on how and where the battery is being used. For installations where the temp exceeds the limits of our chart, we recommend XS Power PN 500, which is our heat reflecting wrap that helps reflect some of the heat in high temp applications. For your alternator customers who chose to disregard our charging voltage recommendations, it is likely they will start to experience problems within the first year of ownership of their AGM battery, and none of the AGM battery companies offer warranty against improper charging, so it would be an expensive lesson to learn if they chose to charge outside of the factory recommendations. If you have any questions, or would like any further info, please do not hesitate to let us know! Technical Service Team XS POWER 2847 John Deere Dr. Suite 102 Knoxville, TN 37917 tel: 865.688.5953 fax: 865.281.9844 (Here is our info on how to properly hook up an XS Power https://www.iraggialternator.com/xs-power-v

Wasn't sure which room to post this in, but this seemed closet to the topic.. Someone made a comment the other day about Iraggi Alternator not being worth the money, shitty work and a rip-off .... That got under my skin a little because they obviously have no idea what they are looking at, or what they are talking about. I've spent years and years designing and perfecting what we do here and strive to make a "Perfect" product as perfect as an Alternator itself can be. We go way out of our way to make sure every alternator is 100% and comes out as flawless as it can possibly be. We don't slap stuff together and shove it out the door as fast as possible. Some companies do as little as possible and have little to no respect for Attention to Detail. Those Attributes drive me more than anything everyday I’m here. It must be a challenge to me and me be proud I built it with my own two hands for someone else to enjoy or I'm bored out of my mind and it’s just not satisfying. Your typical "high amp alternator" can be built in literally 15 minutes, boxed up shipped in another 5 minutes... (A bare aluminum case and "cookie cutter" style alternator) At a minimum I have to clean 80% of the parts to be painted, some bead blasted, ... paint and let dry all those parts, machine the pulley per alternator specs, Machine the decorative Iraggi Signature lines on the front housing, .. take care the entire time NOT to scratch or damage anything. There is a LOT that goes into building an Iraggi Alternator and we take Immense Pride into our finished product. The average-minimum build time is 3-4 days for common units, some take more and have a LOT more machining done to them. So, when you consider the price of an Iraggi there is MUCH more to consider, and I haven't even mentioned our One-of-a-kind warranty and programs we offer. I took a few alternators that are going out and one that probably shipped already and took some close up pics, .. . as close as I can get anyway and still focus. I person can’t possibly not see the attention and passion that goes into these alternators. Yeah, I know, I get it, ... not everyone see's things the same way and appreciates the details...and I do appreciate and respect that but still... I have posted a screenshot of our warranty and benefits that are included with EVERY Iraggi Alternator, and no fine print...

I am not seeing I am not seeing three bar icon, or pencil to edit.. I attached screenshots...Sorry to be a bother

How do I add a picture to my profile..lol I cant figure it out

PRV AUDIO Vocal Speakers.... This may not make sense initially, but a high-quality speaker will have less bandwidth than a lower quality speaker... (for the most part) Just like a 3- or 4-way system is always better than a 1- or 2-way system. The narrower the bandwidth the speaker must play the cleaner it will sound. This will also keep you from asking the speaker to play up to its upper and lower frequency limits which are where it starts to sound "forced" to play those frequencies Pro Audio speakers are nothing new to car audio, but I see consumers not really knowing how to properly use them and having some issues which is understandable. These are totally different than your standard coaxial speaker If you look at the graph on the 6mr500ndy, which sounds amazing, you'll see that it can play from 90hz to 12,000hz... but if you narrow it down to what is plays "best" and more "naturally" it’s closer to 200hz to 10,000hz. Yes, it can play down to 50hz but not efficiently and not as well as 200 and up. Very low volume that would be fine but in what we do with the speaker you will want to cross it over closer to 200-300hz I get a lot of PMs asking if this speaker will pick up where my subs leave off? … around 60-80hz. I say no but the specs say "yes”. 99-13k so that may be a little confusing if you don’t look at the graph and understand what information it has in it So, for someone interested in using this speaker as a voice speaker, which I HIGHLY recommend, you will also need a "midbass" speaker to go with it such as a 10mb800 or 10mb500 or 8mb450. This leads me to another piece of information. PRV model numbers have an "MR”, “MB", "SW" or "W" in between the size of the driver and wattage of the individual speaker. MR=midrange MB=midbass W=woofer SW=subwoofer This is a general guideline for what the speaker is geared towards. That doesn’t mean an 8mb450 can’t be used for midrange or and 8mr400 can’t be used for midbass. That is where the graph and interpretation of the graph comes into play There is a lot more that goes into designing your front stage or your "voice" speakers that one of these days I’ll try and have a more in depth write up. The possibilities are endless...

I was thinking about something the other day.... would love to hear some feedback A comparison of abuse each individual component takes in your typical car audio system, (10,000 watts of power for example) SUBWOOFERS- Typically, a pair of 2500–3000-watt subs on a 10k or 10k worth of power, so real close to double its rated capacity (People blow subs daily, and recon all the time, and never say a word about the product, or quality of product. They just accept its part of the game and move on) $500 sub, $150 recon kit, EVERY time it blows. That gets expensive really quick, but still, nobody cares, they actually seem happy and proud they launched coils all the way onto the dashboard AMPLIFIERS- Usually ran at 1/2Ω, so DOUBLE its rated load also Sometimes 18 volts AND down to 1/4Ω, so at least 4-5 times its rated capacity easy BATTERIES- I have yet to see a system without enough batter power. People usually go overboard by 125-150% minimum ALTERNATORS- 320 amps is probably the most common amperage. 10K pulls between 900 and 1200 amps depending on its configuration. That's 3-4 times the alts rated capacity, ... unless you have duals on your 10k of power, then it’s still double the alts capacity Alternator goes out, drops two tenths of a volt under load, gets a little hot, takes out a rectifier or regulator and everyone loses their mind. They make a post at the next red-light, post pictures, get all upset, send their alt to someone else to repair thinking they will do a better job and talk about it for the next 18 months Most abuse repairs are $75, half the price of a recon that you so happily buy once a week So, to recap... Subs ran at double their rated power, nobody cares when they blow, they buy "so and so" soft parts. Amps ran at double their rated specifications; nobody cares when they blow up. They care more than subs, but still, they call an Amp-medic or whomever and get it fixed with very minimal complaining Batteries ran at below ratings usually so very rare for a battery to go bad, unless you are running voltage too high, which nobody does right? lol Alternators expected to power 3-4 times their capacity AND maintain a bank of batteries at the same time and when they end up burning up an alt, they go crazy Order of level of typical abuse... In my observations anyway. 1- Alternator. (Most heavily abused) 2- Amplifiers. 3- Subwoofers. 4- Batteries. I don’t get it..why is it someone would be more upset that the most abused component fails?

QUESTION: When an "Alternator Manufacturer" gives you an "Output at Idle" number - What do you want to hear? Most people just want to hear a high number and they're happy from that point on out.... Until they have 12.4 volts at a stoplight and 14.8 when they drive... Do you think they have been “deceived” lied to? The industry standard for an "Idle output" test is 2400 ROTOR rpm. That's approximately 800 engine rpm if you have a 3:1 pulley ratio. It’s been that way for years...& as far as today that number should really be 2000 Rotor RPM instead of 2400 because crank pulleys have got way smaller on most vehicles which makes the "Output at idle" rating even LESS. Personally, I do not feel that any passenger car alternator on the planet will do 220 amps at 2000 rotor rpm. To my knowledge there is not a single manufacturer that rates their alternators by this method. They all use the "Boss Audio Amplifier" rating method. (1000-watt amplifier rated at "4000 Watts".) Do you want to be deceived and be told what the "best case scenario" is? Such as "XX amperage" alternator will do "230+ amps at idle" On "XX car"... which idles at 1000 rpm and has an 8" crank pulley which is typically a 4:1 ratio... ANY THOUGHTS?...

I get a lot of PM's with comments that go like this... "I'd like to be in the upper 13's or even 14's full tilt", & hoping for that with one, maybe two alternators on 12,000 watts of power." There are two main sources of power in your system. One is the alternator, which is around 14.5 volts, & the other is the battery, which is 12.8-13.3 at best. So basically two voltage levels, 13.0 & 14.5,... & a very, very small gray area in-between those two numbers. The higher voltage source is the one producing ALL the current until the voltage drops to the next highest source, then that one will start helping. That's why you see voltage go from 14.5 to upper 12's very fast once it starts to move. If you want "Alternator Voltage", anything higher than very low 13's,.. then you need more alternator power than you are pulling from your amplifiers. So if you have, let's say,12,000 watts, which is around 1000-1400 amps of current draw, depending on the amplifier & how you have it configured ... You'll need 1000-1400 amps, or more, of alternator power to maintain - "Alternator Voltage", (13.5 or higher) The only real exception to this rule are banks of caps. Caps produce voltage at the same level you charge them to. .. so in essence, they act just like an alternator, the only difference being they don't produce their own power, They produce what the alt puts in them. Thoughts?

Thank you!

Hi thank you! Trying to figure this forum out....lol