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dlink

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Everything posted by dlink

  1. Title is self explanatory. What is the star (*) for on the RMS wattage on the BL series?
  2. seems like its been more often than that. Oh well
  3. Every other day it is "IPS Driver Error". Its annoying
  4. dlink

    SAX-125.2 Pre-Order

    gotcha, thanks
  5. dlink

    SAX-125.2 Pre-Order

    when would the payment need to be made by? I don't get paid for 2 weeks...
  6. forward to my gmail dlinkwit2700 (remove the last two zeros). friggin bots i'll fix it for ya (i'm bored) MEGA BUMP!
  7. Didn't read any of the posts, didn't need to. 1) 1080p or you will be kicking yourself 20 minutes after you try to watch your first bluray who cares if you dont watch now, eventually you will. you won't have a choice. 2) lcd > plasma hands down. plasma sucks. its dying for a reason. get a samsung LN46A550. 1300$. Shoot me a PM I can get you a pretty decent deal on it (I think around 1170+tax). Here is a trade secret. Most Samsung TVs are made in the same factory as the Sonys. They are the same TV until they are ~90% done, then they split and get different labeling. WHen you buy a Sony, that few hundred more you are paying is for the "Sony" sticker on the front.
  8. Norton is crap, Avast is the best. Google it, use the free home version. Put the pics on a flash drive, use avast to scan before moving to your new tower if you are paranoid. Chances are the virus/trojan is on some system files, not picture files. Protection for the novice (noobs): 0) Enable WEP on your router 1) Avast 2) Spybot 3) PeerGuardian* 4) Firefox 4.1) adblock plus 4.2) no script 5) Stop hitting "yes" and "ok" to every window that pops up online. You will be fine. * If you don't want to bog down your computer with another program, you can change your Hosts file. c:\windows\system32\drivers\etc\hosts open that with notepad. copy and paste everything here >> http://www.mvps.org/winhelp2002/hosts.txt and paste it OVER what is in notepad. save. enjoy.
  9. dlink

    Logo Design Contest

    I've never been a fan of text. I always liked a simple symbol representing a company. Apple, Nike, Adidas, etc. I thought of a combo radiation symbol with sound waves. Thought I'd throw a box in one for the enclosures. I's midnight so my creative juices are a bit slow tonight. One thing to be careful about with text also is licensing of the font. PNG quality sucks (tried to get trans) but you get the idea. Colours easily changed, very resizeable.
  10. dlink

    Logo Design Contest

    I don't know if I can beat the fist, but I'll try
  11. dlink

    12v Electronics

    12v Electronics I Purchased a lightly used set of HAT L61-2. They will not be installed until later this year, so I cannot comment on condition of the speakers, but upon initial inspection they seemed to be in pristine physical condition. The L6s were individually packed in their original boxes with original packing materials. The heft of these boxes made me reminisce of days past when I used to lift heavy rocks to toss into the local watering hole to watch the waves they would make. The L1s were included, paired in their original box. I held them gently, as you would a butterfly, half expecting them to fly onward. They arrived mere days after the purchase was completed in a small cardboard box. The box was rectangular, but not perfectly cubic. It was professionally packed with pink packing peanuts. The kind of pink that makes you think of a baby girl's room. As for Tom, while we spoke only via PM, it was easy to imagine him sitting at his computer chair, typing more than just a 5-o'clock shadow gracing his lower jaw, speaking in his deep, soothing voice, allowing any concerns of purchasing speakers to slide away like the tide on the late-afternoon beach. His gentle demeanor allowed him to wait patiently as I dug through the couch cushions in order to fund the transaction. In short, the only way I could be happier with the transaction would be if they sent perhaps a little person along to pleasure me while I type this review. Bravo 12v Electronics! Bravo! I hate boring reviews
  12. dlink

    Bad experience with wesley

    Actually, the thread says ~20 = approx 20. Granted he should have more closely rounded to ~15 ft, but still, caveat emptor, you should have asked for an exact measurement.
  13. Amp for Hybrid Audio L61-2 set? L6 - 4 ohms; L1 - 8 ohms L1 max : 100w L6 max : 250w
  14. I read as "those" as "these" Sorry. :x
  15. dlink

    who is that guy??

    damn and I thought my Yaris was small
  16. Why can't he get a 9887 new? There are plenty of places online. Crutchfield has them in stock, and for 400$. That's nearly 25% less than the price of the 9255
  17. dlink

    Is this a good setup (Please help)

    You didn't answer the question. If you are willing to go more expensive, there may be a better amp out there for 300. Or is 210 the max of your budget? Without knowing this, you won't get an answer because we don't have enough information to make a useful suggestion.
  18. Here is a review of the CD7200 > http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47012 And one of the 9887 >> http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22136
  19. I personally went with Alpine myself, but I've not used it yet. Here is a side-by-side of the two units: http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/ProdCom...Items=099CD7200 My main reason was price. I got my 9887 for 285 US$. Based on the research I did when I was deciding, I doubt you'd be unhappy with either unit. The Eclipse comes with more features standard but you can get the extra components for the 9887 on ebay for wicked cheap. iPod cable is like 15 bucks max, for example. The eclipse also has more EQ bands (11 vs 7). I've heard mixed reviews on Alpines Time alignment technology (imprint). I've heard consistently 4 things, 2 bad, 2 good Works great for beginners but audiophiles might want to do more tuning themselves Can lack bass but this can be fixed with a proper amp or bass settings A description of the eclipse time alignment technology. It involves uploading information to a website or program, and from what I have found, you just bass the adjustments off of measurements of distance. http://central.sounddomain.com/sd/features/ECL.htm but I can't tell if you have a mic or what
  20. Simple enough neh? "sure if you know what it means" I am not saying that you messed up. I am however saying I think you need to understand the basics. ohms of a speaker and it's relationship to the amp you want to run. sealed vs ported and what maybe right for your desired install how many amp channels needed to run your speakers blending a sub to your front stage these are some of the things that I have had a hard time understanding what you know. like I said maybe it is me not completely understanding what you are trying to convey. try to stick to one subject. make a decision then move on to the next just my .02 cents What I "know." I quote it because it very well could be wrong. Concerning boxes - sealed boxes generally result in higher SQ. For more SPL, ported is the way to go. Why this is (insofar the usefulness of the rear driver) as isn't all that important except to understand that the air in the sealed box is for the most part stagnant. This produces no sound from the rear driver. For a vented/ported box this is not so. By allowing an escape route for the air, the rear driver of the woofer is able to contribute to the sound. By contribute, I don't mean add to the sound, but rather replace sound. The size and shape of the port allows you to replace frequencies that would be produced by the cone, since the cone output is reduced in a ported box. This allows you the opportunity to "tune" the frequencies you hear by modifying the port size. The downside of this is that by "tuning" the woofer, you can reduce the number of frequencies that it can effectively reach, which is what reduces SQ. Furthermore, the ported box, by allowing the driver reduces distortion at high volumes and decrease power handling, which allows the sub to more easily reach lower frequencies. In short, in order to reach the same dB level, the sealed box takes more power than the vented box. Mind you, though, that the sealed has better power handling of lower frequencies. The ported is better able to handle higher frequencies, though. The electrical is where I get a bit lost, but from what I have found, this is my understanding thus far (I wish I paid more attention in physics): Ohm is tantamount to resistance. The lower it is, the less current it uses. A 4 ohm speaker requires less power than an 8 ohm. Half as much, to be precise. I = V/R & I = V/Z (Ohms laws). In any case, matching Ohms helps bring about maximum voltage transfer from the source (amp) to the load (speaker). After that it gets really fun . A 4-channel amp is the proffered way to drive 4 speakers, but is not the only way. Using the L6 (4 ohm) and L1 (8 ohm) I could wire them in either parallel or series on a 2-channel amp. This would put either a 2.67 (parallel) or 12 (series) ohm load on each channel. Parallel schemes allow more power to the speakers, so better sound, but require more power from the amp. Series wiring puts less load on the amp, but you obviously get less output from the speakers then less sound. Furthermore, I could use a 4-channel to power the all 5 speakers by running a wiring scheme on two channels for the L6+L1, then bridge the remaining two channels for the sub. But this is complicated and initially warrants as much attention as a bandpass box, which is noticeably absent in the first paragraph, but later inspection, using one of Ohm's law shows how beneficial bridging can be. Without going through the math, (inversion and whatnot) bridging can nearly quadruple the wattage of a "channel" to a speaker. This means one could purchase a 2-channel 150 W amp @ X ohms and push nearly 600 W to a sub. The good news? Why buy a 600W D amp when you can get a 150 2-channel to do the same thing! The bad? This may slightly increase distortion and will increase current (double it actually). This current increase can cause damage to the amp, so the amps are generally rated safe at double the ohms. That is, an amp that is 150 W stable at 2 ohms would be 600 W stable at 4 ohms. As for blending a sub into my front stage: This one is actually pretty simple, and I am embarrassed that it slipped my mind. The L1 tweeter has the ability to cover 3,000
  21. This is my first system, might attempt DIY if I can find someone local to walk me through, or there is a small local shop I trust. Going in 07 Yaris Hatch. i was thinking subless, but now I might want to throw a 10" sub in the back for some more SPL and bass. I want an even mix of SQ and SPL, (50:50) but if I tilt to more SPL (40:60 respectively), I won't mind. This will not be a competition car. Going to run active. Current parts (in hand) HU: Alpine CDA-9887 Kick-Panel: Hybrid Audio (HAT) Legatia-4 (L4) Rear: RE Audio XXX 6.5 Components w/ tweeters (tweets in the A-pillar or by the L4's, not decided yet) I'll be using Second Skin's Damplifier for the dampening. So... Will I get enough midbass out of the RE XXX's, or should I really throw a single 10" in the back? I've heard awesome things about the RE XXX 6.5s, but again, I want this to be able to sound good, but also get loud too. Not so much to shake the car next to me, but I want to be able to let them to know what I am listening to, if you catch my drift. Also, if I get an amp, should I ditch the L4s or the XXX's and regain some of my $$$, or just keep and use them? Also, I need amp suggestions so I can get this party started. Thanks in advance. /edit I've used the search function, i've lurked for about 2 months and I've gotten help on DIYMA, now I am asking for second (third really) opinions. I'm a bit anal like that.
  22. dammit you beat me before my edit.
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