Smanleyman

wait so do we definitely know if price includes shipping? The BTL dropped $25 and the BL/Q dropped $15 and SSD dropped $10, so weight/price ratio's seem right for shipping cost to be added in... =( The IB3 would be cool in an IB SQ setup in a car, and then have a full trunk of space! Please tell me prices went down I want two BLs so bad

so ive never really found a concrete answer to this, but for sq is a smaller or larger box better? my 15 fi q is in a 4^3 box it is very peaky down low, with kind of weak higher bass(by higher i mean 40-55 not like midbass), and fi says 2.8-4.0 is good. my brothers 12 fi q is in a 1.8/1.9 ^3 box and it says from 1.8-2.5 and it sounds amazing and even from LOWWWW to pretty high. im assuming the smallest recommended box is good for sq/evenness, and the largest is good for spl/peakiness? (I think i just made up words!) oh btw we are both tuned about the same(31 for me 32 for him)

I want to try out a transmission line box or quarter wave, whatever its technically called, and want to know if im off to a good start... I want to use a 10" Fi BL Dual 1 so 41.5fs with an sd of 310cm^2 = 48in^2 1130/41.5/4*12 = 81.7 inches... so my design looks something like this... I dont know much about these kind of boxes it just sounds like a fun project, If it turns out horrible I only lose a few hours and a little off my wood stockpile...What do you guys think about this design and these measurements?

lol @ 22 hz... I measured it as a ported box and its around 80hz... so Im a little worried as to how it will sound, and considered just increasing the chamber large enough to make it a 35hz or so as a ported box, but with the line length of a TL... and hope for the best. I think I can trust it if I taper it off as is... what do you use to model the boxes? I saw the mathcad software on martin kings website but cant figure out how to use it or where to find the worksheets

Personally I dont like the look of inverted magnets, and this would be my daily setup, if it sounds good anyway, so the less space the better... Do you think going from 6x12 or so suddenly down to 4x12 would affect it to much and make it not perform as a TL? Better yet I could try to taper it down since ive read sometimes thats better for performance anyway...

Updated pics in truck!! Port behind Passenger seat Amp behind drivers seat... seats all the way back ftw

my q15 weighs about 35-36 pounds.. Is the BL that much heavier???

ohh ok I get you... no 13.5 is across and 12 is up, 13.5 up includes top and bottom wood... I guess I can change 7 to 5.5 since the sub is 6.25 mounting depth minus .75 from wood... and then I should shorten it maybe 12-14 inches to include the sub chamber(So maybe 17 deep)?

not 100% what you mean... Do you mean the "chamber" where the sub is in should be smaller? This was the only thing I wasnt sure about since with a 6.25 mounting depth I cant really make this a true TL... should I make the line shorter to account for the volume where the sub sits?

Any opinions?

The Q is also a great choice I have the "stock" 15" with 1500 watts and love it...

Im assuming this mini van doesnt have any electrical upgrades, and if he gets a btl he will want more power one day to really push the sub. I say go with the BL just so there is no temptation in the future to get a new amp then need more electrical backup, plus IMO the BL would be louder, but I dont have personal experience... and yes the BL is better, there may be a Hz or two that the l7 may hit louder, but all around BL>>>L7

so I really think I wanna stay fi, so the bl would be the way I go... how much power would I be safe with on one 10" bl with p chamfer, and how much more could I add with flatwind?

yea isnt the z series made form rare earth magnets like neod...ium... whatever lol, expensive stuff I can only imagine how amazing they are (and expensive gulp) if he claims probably better than any sub ever made, and I would believe that so thats why cerwin vega isnt as good anymore... I love learning things!

of course... but 2000 watts is potentially louder than 500 watts, and if a sub cant handle 2000 watts and another one can, well im going to go with the one that takes more power, as long as its sensitivity isnt like... 75 btw scratch the btl idea i forgot it was a burp only design...

I guess to make what im looking for a little easier, Im hoping to have a single 10" as loud as or at least as close as possible as my 15" q in 4^3, using half the space or less, and I know most 10's can shine in under 2^3... Im thinking the old btl10 off an AQ2200d may do the trick.. if I can find one???

yea the 99z 10 is amaaaaaazing, but how many thousands does it cost...? lol Its tempting to hunt down an old btl because I really love my Q and havent heard any other companies that are actually good, so the comfort level is there, but I trust reviews in these forums enough to know how good other companies are... just dont get to hear them...

thor - better(louder/more handling) than an fi BL with options?

thor I was thinking of two aqhd310s with an aq2200d for my next setup, but then I thought how BA it would be to only have one ten that could handle the 2200d at 1ohm, and plus it would take up much less space... The mayhem doesnt have a 10" Those revos look nice how do they compare to dd 95 series? sensitivity looks low but xmax is up there I dont know how these parameters affect output as well as other people do... Google didnt help me at all with the shocker sig...? Its sad because honestly, Kicker solo x has a 10 that looks like it can handle tons of power... and I HATE kicker... Thanks for ideas so far guys keep them coming please

what do you think could potentially be the loudest 10" in virtually equal setups and handle maybe 1500 daily or a 2000ish burp? Does anyone know how much DC level 4 XL's or dd 9500's are going for in the 10"?

after taking a moment to contemplate all the possible uses of duct tape... lol... what exactly should I try with it?

the 45's in corners wouldnt be for flow purposes, but more so to decrease my volume to raise tuning, since im a little oversized and at 31hz right now, and i figured 45's made more sense than randomly sticking wood in places... In this local comp no one has any form of sound deadener for the most part so they sit there and rattle, I have a roll of deadener in my trunk the rattles are much better and windshield flex just looks cool

nice thats a really sweet setup, Is the box some sort of modded TL?

yea, if I was adding a battery to the back in addition to my stock is the condition for my questions...

I have an adjustable voltage stinger capacitor, so right now its 12.5 or so off and about 15 car on, and its only at 15 so it doesnt drop even lower when it hits. You think my stock alt can handle my stock battery and then a kinetik or something similar? What kind of CCA and AH am I looking for to be enough for 1500 watts... Will the kinetik HC800 for $125 do the job or is $200 a good deal for a stinger sp1700? Sorry I have so many questions but if im shelling out the cash I want something that will be very worthwhile.