Smanleyman
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Posts posted by Smanleyman
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1 minute ago, Smanleyman said:Finally got them!
First step was to mark my holes and add the inserts. This was my first time ever using them and it was definitely a painful process, but at least I learned along the way.
I also kept a cutout in case one ever goes out I'll be able to run a single(with less power of course)
I can't upload more files!!!! It looks great all installed too
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Finally got them!
First step was to mark my holes and add the inserts. This was my first time ever using them and it was definitely a painful process, but at least I learned along the way.
I also kept a cutout in case one ever goes out I'll be able to run a single(with less power of course)
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On 1/5/2012 at 5:50 PM, n8skow said:But since we can't see the formula that particular online calculator is using - we don't know how they are coming up with their 'ideal' port area - (and it doesn't specify if they are using an end correction factor for flared ports or not...) Let alone the results... According to that calculator - you'd need one 7" round port for the single SSA-12 (to tune to say 35hz). I'm gonna go out on a limb and say thats way too big to be practical. If I used SSA's recommend a 2.25 cube box the port would have to be 28" long! The links to SSA's box plans are broken at the moment, so can't compare against what they recommend for port - but I'd wager it's a lot less than this calculator is coming up with...
Thoughts?
28" isn't anywhere near too long to be practical. That would mean no tlines are practical. Too small of a port creates several issues, what does too big of a port do? I always go as big as possible for my design (up to 16in/cube)
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19 hours ago, ///M5 said:4x the current at the same voltage. Hope your amp has both a current limit shut down as well as thermal. Or more logically rewire that shit pronto
or 2x the current at the same wattage, probably more relevant, still probably as dangerous
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4 hours ago, Notorious97200 said:That box looks very nice : I love the color, and the finish.
But I don't understand the 2 8 Ga wires in a single terminal.
Thanks! There isn't a lot of room to hook up to on the back of my terminal cup. Two dvc subs in parallel, this way each sub only needs two terminals instead of 4. I guess the colors could be confusing that was a test shot, of course it would be two + in one and two - in the other
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Made some awesome progress this weekend!!
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Got my terminal hole cut then went to carpet town.
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Its hard to get the gloss metallic combo in a picture, this was the best closeup I could get
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Im very happy with the results. Of course there a few imperfections but thats DIY life. Up next is the wiring. My homemade terminals hold two strands of Sky High 8 gauge perfectly.
Man I really want these subs to show up soon now that the box is finally ready. Stay tuned for their arrival!
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Thanks everyone for the positive responses. I'm super anxious to get these bad boys running.
It's going in a 2015 Honda Accord coupe. My last setup was a single sundown x8 and a fosgate r1200. Amp blew so I decided to just upgrade everything. X8 is on my bc3500 dmm'd at 1100 watts (before rise) right now while I wait. I've got an xs power d3400 and skyhigh 2/0 power/ground/big 3.
Ill probably need another batt and maybe alternator, but I'm waiting to see how voltage looks before spending a ton more money.
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There are two things I have never had since I got "serious" into car audio. A 10" sub, or a decent dual sub setup. So this is my build for two 10" xcons! Im super excited, they should be finished building and arriving soon, I hope.
I am fitting the maximum dimensions of my trunk while still being able to fold up the stock floor and access the spare tire. I was left with 3.11 internal cubic feet without sub, bracing, 45s, or port displacement. This is firing into the car, so I also needed the subs and port to be on the same face.
The triangle port is unconventional but takes up less volume than a typical slot port inside the box and also has less port wall surface area, so I'm hoping it works out. That angle took some wizardry to figure out, and it still came out a little crooked but oh well. The "45s" are little pine cove trim pieces, figured this is the best I can do without sacrificing internal volume. I used minimal bracing but it should be enough, and undercoated everything with two cans, I honestly dont think it does anything but I like to do it on my boxes. it gives a solid completed look to the inside of the box and its extra leak insurance.
Final volume and tuning should be 2.4 cubes at 31 hz with 25 sq in port area. The box is a little too small and the port is a little too small, but its all the space I have.
Got some black base down and some custom copper orange pearl, trying my best to match the faceplate of my Crecendo BC3500. All thats left is to carpet it with black felt, wire the drivers in, and go to town!
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SSD would be another option if your looking in the Fi lineup!
those look really nice too but i'm only gonna buy 1 sub instead of 2 to try and save space. i dont think 1 SSD is enough output for what i'd like
With proper install and the right power, i forsee 1 ssd with flatwind and bp power being louder than the 2 cvrs... Also the ssd with these options is cheaper than the q, handles more power than the q, and will still have much more quality than the kickers...
I feel like thats a decent transition into the world of quality subs, q is meant not to be played as loud as it can, so i just recommend against it, although it would in no way dissapoint you, just us.
Happy hunting
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So lately one of my friends insists that we "have a concert" every time were in my car because hes never really heard any good speaker setups and mines the best hes heard, but all I have are kicker ssmb6 midbass on ~55 watts and 3.5 coaxials in pods on the a pillars run off the HU. The sound impresses him but if its going to be a concert I want a louder more full sound. I dont know much about what component sets are good and I was hoping for some input as to what I should get, assuming a passive component set will be a decent improvement. SQ isnt the most important thing, I really just want a loud clear full sound. This is going in my honda accord and I only have about 2" of mounting depth so I have to make a baffle no matter what, but 3" depth is probably the maximum. I want to spend less than 300 on this, and the cheaper the better.
Ive looked at the following so far...
Rainbow SLC, SLC kick, NG, i really dont know the difference in these nor could I find much info
Image dynamics CTX65CS
Morel tempo 6
Focal 165 v1
Im know there are plenty more out there and Im looking for the loudest fullest sound I can get while still being clear off of my 55w x 4 amp.
Thanks ahead of time for any input.
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what about 2 15" btls in 7-8 cubes you could use less power, so in the end youll have less sub weight, less amp weight, and less batt weight, and it will still get crazy low/loud. Idk thats probably what i would do but its not my setup nor do i have that money lol
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So last summer I was on an unknown mic at a local audio shop and hit 148.2 with my 15" Fi Q on 1500 watts. I knew that was way too high so I had always been curious what id get on the TL. Today I found out that number is a 142.26 in the dash with driver window down, and 140.xx sealed up. I dont think thats too bad considering what my sub has been through...
First I blew it so i tore it apart, recoiled it, and patched the spiders
Then the magnet cracked/shifted so I shimmed it and epoxied the hell out of it
Then the cone blew apart, epoxied once again
Ran off a clarion dpx11500 (1500 rms at 1 or 2 ohm) at 1 ohm with the gain about 1/3 up, peaked at 36hz in my 4 cubes @ 31hz box in my 2000 honda accord... I dont think thats too bad at all, all things considered.
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SSD ftw dont buy square garbage
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I first got the idea from your setup to be honest lol, its very nice btw. I set it up with a side port like that but then realized it wouldnt work in my trunk, so I had to have it setup like this. The important thing is it is definitely 32 with the plug in and something higher than 32 with it out to help for spl.
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wow, nice. I was going to use the door hinges on my box port as well.
Good work.
How did you get the tuning for the box when the plug is out? I see that the port starts out big and then gets smaller after the corner.
I didn't do my box with a corner because I didn't know how to do that. Luckily, my port doesn't need to wrap around a corner. I'd like to know just in case next time I have to do another one and have to wrap around a corner.
Lol to be honest I dont know. I just averaged the width between the port sections and used that to get about 41 hz... I figure it has to be kind of close, and either way it will be louder on the meter than the 32hz tuning. Im sure there is some technical something that says im an idiot... but oh well.
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Finished the box... but the sub isnt here yet. I also lied the 1" is mdf after a second glance. I thought it was PB because the 3/4 i used on my last box looked the same on the outside but oh well at least its 1" thick so not too flimsy.
Yup, thats a hole
What caulk?
Mmmm liquid nails
not done yet...
getting closer...
BAM!
Haha this is my first design with a port insert hopefully it works how I want it to. Its 32 hz with the insert in, shouild be 40-42 with it out for the 1 or 2 local comps I go to a year.
A 12" Fi BL with the hyper pole option needs to show up at my house so it can go in this sexy thing.
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I ordered the sub last thursday I dont know when it will be here though. The box is finally all cut up just have to assemble now, which should be tomorrow.
So im using mostly 1" industrial PB, with some 3/4 mdf (hate the stuff, at least hardware store grade anyway) here and there, should be about 32hz @ 2.5 for daily. Its 34x16x16 externally, pretty big for a 12 I think, and its gonna be pretty heavy
The cutlist:
45's:
Hmm I wonder what these slots are for...
No bracing besides the 45's which dont really count, this PB is incredibly beast
More pics tomorrow and hopefully it will be done and the sub will come in soonish
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YOUR BREASTS ARE ACTUALLY TWO LIVE NUCLEAR BOMBS!!!
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Ok so on the 10, 15, and 18" bl the fs for both the d1 and d2 are the same, but on the 12 d1 is 35.2 and d2 is 39.8hz. I was wondering if that was a misprint or if someone knew the reason it was so different. I wanted a 12 d2 for daily but that fs seems kind of high especially when im used to the lows of my q...
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It didn't have anything to do with the addition of the yellow top, with the way it was set it wouldn't have made it either way.Actually the addition of the yellow top did aid in the damage of the sub, the amp wouldn't even push to its full potential prior to that, so going at full potential with bass boost, sounds like the death of a sub is bound to happen way quicker. Its no longer my concern, you live and you learn. You all are taking more time to say shit about how I fucked my Kicker up, and so on and so forth but when it came down to me asking a simple tech question on a forum where I though people would be knowledgeable about the subject, all were concerned about what I did wrong with the settings and the amp, I really did not care for any input on that. Really doesn't matter we all have our freedoms though.
I know about bass boost, I know its damaging to the sub... I get it... no need to talk down upon my actions and such. I set my gains low and the x over just right, but the bass boost on the other hand not so right. Back to point... you live and you learn.
So I'm going with SSD 12 or 15, going to make the order this afternoon. I'm going with DVC 1 option for the mono block Kicker ZX750.1. I'm either going to get the 12 with the flatwind coil and go ported or get the fifteen with copper coil sealed. In comparison to the CVX do you think the 12 or the 15 would stand up to it with these options on them?
You need to understand that no one is trying to call you out on messing up, but rather trying to find out exactly what the problem was so it doesnt happen to you again. If you really want a simple answer from knowledgeable people dont say "I hope you're not lying" when they tell you something, people here know a lot.
And btw either of those ssd options will pretty much destroy the cvx in both output and quality provided you give it the proper enclosure and power.
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For daily use I wouldnt go above 35-36 since some songs are gonna have lows that you wont safely be able to hit without mechanical risk unless you have your SSF set high enough, then those songs dont sound good at all anymore.
Thats just me though
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There should be some sort of examination people have to take before they can buy nice equipment. That SSD will be dead in less than a month.
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I just carefully used a razor blade... Not sure id recommend it though
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Wow my brother and I are 50% of your broken Q's , and thats very interesting that two in the same HOUSEHOLD happened lol. Were an hour south of Chicago, IL. Thanks for the support Scott, hopefully this magnet fix will hold up. How about sending me a recone instead of fixing the magnet lol, im more worried about that than the magnet going bad again.
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2 10" SSA Xcon build
in Build Logs
Posted
I have to drop one more update now that these pups are mostly broken in. They are absolutely phenomenal. Im in love! Flat as a pancake from 30-60, solid midbass rolloff so they blend well, and they can dig down to 25 before losing most of their output. Did I mention the really loud part on ~3k, yeah they do that really well too. I had a few friends throw random demo songs at them and everything sounded crisp,sexy, and loud. Thanks SSA!