holley2346

Hmmm I may consider it. With a show that large my chances of being competitive are little to none.

Looking at the Audio Que 20 amplifier... and am wondering about the power claims they are making. I'm going as basic as you can get... the amplifier has 3 sets of 0 gauge power inputs. They claim the amplifier can consume up to 2,000 amps of current and over 1,000 amps of current consistently. Yet 100% ofc 0 gauge wire is rated around 250-350 amps of current up to 10'. Just looking at this, how can the amp be provided with the proper amperage at the correct voltage with enough inputs to only accept 750-1050 amps of current? Just wondering. Thanks for the help.

Not quite sure how confident I am in AQ's amplifiers. edit: Didn't specify their main stream amps... the AQ20 would seem to be a much sturdier and overbuilt amp after doing a lot of reading... that would likely be the only amp I'd be willing to purchase from AQ.

If they were cheaper I'd consider investing in one..... my 250 sp's need a challenge. The Warhorse is the only practical choice. lol Which is exactly what I'm going to if I have one more problem from my sundown amps. What issues are you having? Just general bad luck... but the main reason for the switch is I'm out of warranty and a warhorse is much cheaper per watt that sundown.

If they were cheaper I'd consider investing in one..... my 250 sp's need a challenge. The Warhorse is the only practical choice. lol Which is exactly what I'm going to if I have one more problem from my sundown amps.

If they were cheaper I'd consider investing in one..... my 250 sp's need a challenge.

It is rated at that from 0 to 10 feet... therefore a one foot run would have the same rating. Note that I never described my runs or runs to the amp as being 10 feet long.

Thanks for the info

10,000 / 12.0 = 833 amps so I guess it may be feasible to transfer enough current through the wire. I'm not so sure why they cut it so close though?

Yes

Id like to follow up and let everyone know that the amplifier was at fault. I appreciate you pointing out the amplifier nick, I hooked everything up last night and sub was getting stinky at extremely low volume. I checked the output and was receiving a steady 51 volts dc. I'm hoping I haven't burnt up my other sub now. Also note fi was very helpful in providing a recone and I really apreciate their assistance.

See that's why i ask questions. clearly fi is no longer for me if they take the subs "intensity" away, why would i want a lower end sub? it all just sounds like a downgrade to me..... i dont have a system to be LOUD i just really like the heart rattling rumble i get from mine the new subs sound good for spl but not for daily anymore "the whole reason i like my btls" Don't get me wrong.... it may not be as "intense" but it is a crazy amount of smoother bass. I just haven't gotten used to it.... nevertheless I am expecting some good numbers from these subs.

I've owned both generations and I assure you that they do sound different, with a similar enclosure tuned close to what my other fi's were. While there is a lot more of a smooth presence of bass it is not "intense" by any means.... I am stepping up the power to see if that helps and then will write a full review. I don't blame Fi for mixing it up and going in a new direction... but wouldn't mind getting ahold of some BNIB gen 2's. I will however undoubtedly stay with Fi / AA as they provide some of the best products on the market (in my humble opinion) today. Also - If you could get back to me via email nick I would appreciate it.

I think you should do a standard subs up box from front to back filled with 18's + tens of thousands of watts and then have a roof flex display.

Read this; http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=22;t=003982;p=0

Well I have 2 3000D'S and the original plan was to strap them and hook them up to my 2 btl's. The problem is that the subs are d2... so if I strap them it will be a .5 ohm load per amp, correct? I've never strapped before so I'm not too sure about the process. If this is the case and it won't work I would want to hook each amp to each sub individually and would have a 1 ohm load per amp... if I did this how would I set the gains to match eachother? Also I have plenty of electrical behind these amps... about 800 AH of storage and 6000 CCA along with 2 dc power 250 sps. Thanks for the help!

Thanks a lot! If I strap these amps, if one amp goes they both burn up dont they?

Anyone else?

Well not much of an update... just waiting on equipment. But I do have even more power now to feed my amps I completely LOVE the new knu cca wire.... this is the most flexible stuff I have EVER worked with and is even way more flexible than the original CCA. I know there is no wire hooked up to the 2nd alt, I wasn't quite done

I was going to wait until I had finished everything, but by the time my subs get here I will be too old to type. haha --- Previous setup (~147 on music) Fi Audio Generation 2 BTL 18 Sundown Audio 3000D 2 Optima Yellow Tops Sundown Audio 50.4 Polk Audio component sets in the front doors and kicks --- What's going in 2 Fi Audio Generation 3 BTL N2's (18s) Sundown Audio 3000D (.5 ohm) 4 Optima Yellow Tops, some sort of group 31 in the oem secondary battery tray not changing the component sets in the kicks/doors leaving the 50.4 adding 3-4 apt super tweeters and some selenium mids for rear fill (just when I'm at shows with the hatch open) And some pictures; First part of the new system to arrive; 250SP Before After The Idea; Trying to form the idea into reality Everything out and ready for the box Slid the box in Had to get some more power for the .5 ohm transition Still waiting on the VCM, Waiting on FI for the subs. I'll wait a couple of weeks before adding the second baffle/carpet. Thanks for looking Give me some feedback

That is a good looking rig.... Here is my money pit; AMC 360 with a performer intake and 4 bbl carb. Swapped in 1 tons and spooled front and back (d60 front 14 bolt ff rear 4.88's) it now has hydro assist it's on 38s I've invested too much into this thing, but it is unstoppable I have a high angle driveline front shaft because this is ~14 inches of lift

This is exactly what mine did when I blew it... on the low notes (30's) you couldn't really tell, but above 45-50 it sounded like a bolt was bouncing around on top of my cone....

Any update on this? If it's not going to be covered or anything I'd like to go ahead and pay and get it shipped out.... I'm having to push everything back now since my equipment failure. Thanks!

What sort of equipment did you order? I am relatively new to high output sound systems so I am unfamiliar how you would get a steady voltage out of a car's electrical system. Well at first I only had 4 yellow tops and a dual alternator kit.... I doubled my battery storage and am going triple alts. I have the extra alternator, I'm just waiting on the bracket. If your goal is to keep voltage above your batteries float voltage you must have enough alternator power to keep up with your load(s). Whether Fi covers this or not, there is no place to order a n2 recone on their site. Out of experience in contacting fi, this seems to be the best way (ssa forum). Which is why I'm here.

The amp just got back from repair today actually. And sorry if I sounded as if I "deserved" something... as that's far from what I was intending. My gains are set audibly, it's the way I've always done them.... it has worked fine for the past few years and as previously mentioned I had 0 problems out of running this 3000D on a gen 2 btl for almost two years. The gains have not changed since the last setup, and shouldn't have since I still have the same radio and only changed out the sub. This is the first sub I have ever "blown"... it just seems odd that even though it's blown, it is still showing normal resistance levels. Thanks! Also, as a note to anyone reading my opinions about the subs.... you can take them however you want them... my opinions are what they are, just my opinions... Just because I like the way a gen2 sub plays better than the neo doesn't mean you will feel the same way. I love Fi's products and their support... just liked the gen 2 btls a little better. Needless to say I expect a nice number once I get everything set up properly. I also think I should describe my "voltage issues" into further detail.... maybe the terms I used were a little extreme for my situation. By saying I am having voltage issues I am only stating situations where the voltage dips below the relative float voltage (~13.0) of my battery bank which is over 800 AH and well over 5600 CCA. Voltages I am seeing are not going below the 12.4 mark, which isn't much of a problem generally... but I want to stay at a healthy 14.4+ (which is why I have already ordered the equipment to do so). Thanks for your understanding.