holley2346
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Posts posted by holley2346
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I think you are missing the point that the XLS1000 already has unbalanced inputs, the cleanbox isn't going to make a huge difference.
The cleanbox helps a little when an amplifier only has balanced inputs as it helps with impedance matching. It may work better, but even if you get your 4db, that is hardly audible at all.
Bottom line, if you can't already run the amp into clipping with what you got (which you should be able to no problem with anything that has a variable output) the cleanbox isn't going to help much.
Does that Onkyo have a main pre-out? Other than the Zone 2?
No unfortunately my onkyo doesn't have a pre out. The only way to play what it is playing is to use zone 2. However I could get a video cable for my mac and still play movies through the tv and crown amplified speakers. If the cleanbox doesn't help much I will have to find a reciever with a much higher output voltage. I am open to suggestions on what equipment to put in this room. It is an enclosed 2 car garage that has been turned into a movie room. I currently have a 70" led tv in it with 2 12" dayton subs with built in plate amps. Mids and highs consist of the onkyo speakers that came with the receiver along with 2 BIC venturi dv48 tower speakers and 2 pure acoustics super nova 5f's.
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I connected my note 3 directly to the amp using a 3.5mm to rca chord. The output is MUCH louder and more led's light up. So this is obviously a signal voltage issue with the onkyo receiver. From what I am reading if you use rca unbalanced inputs and balanced xlr outputs to the amp on the cleanbox you will receive a boost of up to 4db. Which will hopefully help with additional output.
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The amp is also in stereo bypass mode, which I believe means no filters are active.
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I found the information at the crown support forum.
Here; http://www.crownaudio.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4675
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OK listen, if you can't even vary the output of the Zone 2 output you have something completely wrong.
Your problems have nothing at all to do with the Crown. The reason the signal lights don't do anything is because you aren't feeding the Crown hardly any input signal.
You need to figure out how to vary the output of the Zone 2. The Zone 2 is normally a completely separate output adjustment, and is done so independently of the main output section.
Figure out how to use your receiver properly (or isolate a defective Zone 2 output) and you will be golden.
Also make sure the Crown is set to 2 Channel direct (I think that is what the default is called), I just installed 10 of these a few months ago, make sure you didn't jack up any of the amp settings if you were goofing around with them.
From Onkyo -
If you are using POWERED ZONE 2, you can control the volume of the Z2 speakers using the Onkyo receiver. Powered Zone 22 only connects to and powers a pair of speakers. If you are planning to use more than a pair of speakers for Zone 2; you will then need to use the Zone 2 Line Out terminals. NOTE: using the Zone 2 Line Out terminals WILL require volume control from the external amplifier.Using the Remote 2 app; you will need to select the Zone 2 option from the remote app first. Then when ZONE 2 is activated; select the volume.bar to try controlling the volume for your Powered Zone 2 speakers. If you still experiencing any issues; please contact our Product Support department at 217852600, option #3from for Product Support.
I am using zone 2 pre outs which are not moderated by the volume on the reciever.In addition to this I completely eliminated the onkyo by connecting my cable box outputs directly to the onkyo. This yields the same results as with the onkyo and the same results as using my phone with a 3mm to rca converter cord directly to the amp.I have found the product that I think will solve my problem from ART. It can be found here.I really appreciate your help with this.Thanks.0 -
That's strange I can use my cellphone headphone jack to rca cable and feed that into any one of my pro audio amps for my garage setup, I used to run that into an older Sony receiver and use the sub Out to my qsc powering my solo x and one of the audio outs to my small crown powering my 2 tower speakers no problem
Just tried exactly what you described. Same results.
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It takes 1.4V balanced (so probably about .7V unbalanced) to clip that Crown amp. Your reciever can put that out.
Are you powering other speakers off the reciever in addition to the ones on the Crown or are you just using the reciever as a pre-amp for the Crown?
I have 2 purposes for this setup.
1. Low output sound for watching shows / news
2. Extremely high output for parties / drinking festivities purely playing music
I have the onkyo speakers only hooked to the onkyo receiver now for low output.
I have "zone2" I guess you could call it a "pre out" sending signal to the input of the xls1000 crown amp
The signal output from the cable box is coming in on "tv/cd"
With everything connected it doesnt matter if the volume on the onkyo is at maximum or minimum it doesn't affect the signal to the amp.
With everything set to wide open the signal indicators on the amp do not even go beyond the lowest led which is below -20 db as shown in the below image.
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When I installed and first powered on the amp after hooking it up the gains were all the way down. Once powered on I slowly turned the gain knobs to full output. That's when I discovered how disappointing the output was. This amp is rated at a much higher output than my home audio reciever and these speakers rock out hooked to my receiver. However there is too much heat build up in the receiver for comfort.
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I recently added more speakers to my home theater setup. To power the speakers I ordered a crown XLS1000 amplifier. I was dissapointed after hooking everything up that I was not getting the output I was expecting. At this point I noticed the signal indicators on the amp were barely lighting up even though they were getting all the signal that my reciever could put out. So some research revealed that most home audio recievers don't put out a high enough voltage for pro audio amplifiers. To resolve the problem I ordered an ART-II Pre Amplifier which in my mind would boost the signal to a higher voltage, therefore allowing me to set the gains properly on my amp and get the proper output. However I just got done hooking everything up and all I get out of it is clipped signal. Even at its lowest setting.
So someone please assist me in making this work properly. Another issue I'd like to resolve is how to control volume with a remote using this amp. As it currently is set up it gets signal all the time from my onkyo reciever's "zone 2". Even when you turn the reciever off "zone 2" is still sending out signal to the crown amplifier. The only way to control volume output is with the gain knobs, which I know is not the proper way to control volume, nor do I want to have to manually change output levels by walking across the room.
Some of you that have used crown amps at home please pitch in.
The reciever I am using is an onkyo ht r758
Thanks
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That's pretty good considering the small engine and I'm guessing you're somewhere in the area of 6K lbs?
I'm not sure.
Stock curb weight is 5,636 pounds
Yellow Tops 43.5x4
Box I'd say Roughly 500 pounds including 1 inch threaded rod and 1/4" steel plate
Crescendo 3500's 30?x4
Fi BTL's 50?x4
Sundown 100.4 18 pounds
Sundown 100.2 15? pounds
Total: 6663 pounds? without gas, me, 24's, and a turbo kit.
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Wideband gauge is useless without a wideband 02 sensor. Not too many people know this and very few vehicles have wide band O2s.
With that being said, very nice! I love turbos! What are the turbo specs? Who did the tuning and what software did you use? Just so you know, you must take a a video of a cloud of tire smoke. It's the ONLY way to prove it works.
I thought most wideband gauges came with the sensor, my mistake.
The turbo is a 70mm, I don't remember the size of the housings off the top of my head. Tuning was done by Vengeance Racing in Atlanta, Ga. And I'm sorry but as long as the 4l60e is in the truck with all that weight in the back there shall be no glorious white smoke haha.
Thanks for the compliments!
If your gauge came with the proper sensor, that's awesome. Most are just the gauge. What brand is it?
Have your tuner increase line pressure in the trans and it should hold it fine. We did that on my buddy's Camaro and it held 500 at the rear wheels for 3 years and it got beat daily. Of course you may only be able to do that with at the valve body, but IIRC, it's adjustable electronically.
Don't laugh but it's a glowshift. For the price I had to try it, and it actually is DEAD ON compared to what EFI Live's logging showed. I just left a lot of torque management in the tune to save the trans, line pressures are elevated but not high. We set them a little high at first, and the ride was way less than satisfactory with jumpy shifts and belt slippage on the triple alts.
We pretty much got it dialed in and am proud of the time slip with a 4.8 and all the audio inside the truck... at least a thousand pounds worth.
Don't know if I posted it, will post again just to verify.
I'm content... for now.
Some pics of the truck since I didn't include them;
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BTW, post some pics of that "little red" car next to the hog.
Phone isn't wanting to agree with me at the moment.
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Wideband gauge is useless without a wideband 02 sensor. Not too many people know this and very few vehicles have wide band O2s.
With that being said, very nice! I love turbos! What are the turbo specs? Who did the tuning and what software did you use? Just so you know, you must take a a video of a cloud of tire smoke. It's the ONLY way to prove it works.
I thought most wideband gauges came with the sensor, my mistake.
The turbo is a 70mm, I don't remember the size of the housings off the top of my head. Tuning was done by Vengeance Racing in Atlanta, Ga. And I'm sorry but as long as the 4l60e is in the truck with all that weight in the back there shall be no glorious white smoke haha.
Thanks for the compliments!
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OK! just makin sure for both you and others who know nothing about turbos....
Didn't want somebody seein your pics and go, Hey, i'm gonna go get a Turbo and some downpipes, etc.. and an intercooler and that's it, lol....
Yeah I completely understand. I guess I didn't do much of a job at doing a write up, just showing off a little spoolin from the tahoe
. If anyone is thinking about doing this and has any questions, feel free to ask on here or pm's.
Note that the kit is only the start. You also need to purchase the proper injectors / fuel pump, a wideband gauge at a minimum, a good tuner, and hook up exhaust to the downpipe.
Thanks
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i hope u installed a LOT more with that turbo than what u r showing us....
Although u did say u have an intercooler and never showed us that, hehe.
piggyback at least?, wideband O2?, A/F Gauge?, upgraded injectors?, using the right octane fuel?, wastegate?, BOV?,
How much HP increase? safe on tranny? internal engine?
Forgot to take a picture of my pillar. It's a little dark now, anyway triple gauges in the a pillar... wideband, fp, boost. Injectors are 60# at 2bar and I think 76# at 3bar. Pump gas 93. Blow off valve and wastegate..... not sure how I'd run without a gate, I think I'd be around 25 psi for about 1 second before the heads lifted.
Boost increase in these motors is 20-25 hp per pound of boost, I'm currently running 6 pounds to prolong the life of my stock 4l60e. I am trying my hardest to find a 4l80 to swap in, add some mathanol injection / head studs and crank it up to about 10-12 pounds. Stock bottom ends on these engines have been holding up very well.
The fourth image down is showing the intercooler mounted in the grill....
I'm sure theres more I didn't think of, just let me know. Rest assured I installed everything the right way, no corners cut.
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Don't turbos get very hot? I'd be wary of adding so much more heat when you already have added multiple alts.
Underhood temps aren't too bad, I have no data to prove this other than my interpretation but the only time serious heat builds up is when you are WOT making passes or playing around in boost. I tend to play every now and then but 95 percent of my driving stays under 2#'s. Also note that when you get out of boost your egts cool down very quickly. They've been using kits like this for almost 10 years now, heat being a non issue.
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is a kit? who's kit? is it custom setup? what kind of turbo? i enjoy performance builds on suvs and trucks so i'm always curious.
Yup it comes as a complete kit minus injectors, tuning, and final exhaust connection. It is a magnum turbo (master power) 70mm. You can find this kit for nbs and nnbs chevy / gmc / Cadillac trucks and suvs. Rick @ Trickperformanceproducts.com can set you up.
More pictures at
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looks great... wouldn't you need a better intake to feed that beast anyway???
If you are referring to having the filter mounted directly to the turbo, it hasn't proven to be an issue. My air intake temps are a few degrees above ambient. The inter cooler was quite large. Thanks for the compliments.
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Like this much better than the K&N CAI, everyone needs one. Especially with the added weight of audio equipment. I'll have to shoot some better looking final photos sometime.
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What kind of turbo setup do you have installed?
A standard crossover style with a log manifold on the passenger side.
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I've made some progress since my last post. Switched to Crescendo 3500's and absolutely love them. Best score yet, this past sunday 155.2 @ 45 hz. Now looking to push it a little further. Open to suggestions but looking at making the switch to 16volt and strapping the amps down to combat box rise.
Oh and I forgot, added a turbo so I can get up and go a little quicker
Opinions appreciated.
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for the line out converter just splice the rear speaker wires run them to the converter and the speakers so its a Y. then run your rcas to the amp and adjust gain accordingly. yes they work i used one for about 2 yrs. and yea that electrical should be fine. Goodluck!!!!
Does it matter which side? Left or right?
And will the sound not be as good as if I had a aftermarket headunit? Thanks for the help guys.
A plain old Line Out converter under 100 bucks will do you fine, you will accomplish your goal although an aftermarket radio would offer more eq and input options, and would likely sound a little better. I ran a line out converter for a bass amp for over 6 months and was content. It'll be your temporary fix until you can purchase an aftermarket head unit.
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I don't care about moving air and blowing my hair, if I want that I'll roll down the window. I like it where it hurts so bad you can't see straight
Well it's pretty close to impossible to breathe playing a mid 40's note at full tilt. Vision tends to blur and it's really an indescribable feeling for me that I haven't even felt listening to 155's+.
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nice
what the box tuned too? got any vids of this beat,by the looks of the picture it sure looks like a wind tunnel
It's tuned around 35 hz. I don't have any videos of it yet, maybe soon! And it surprisingly didn't move as much air as I thought it would, but around 40 hz and up it just flat out hurts.
Thanks everyone for the kind words.
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Crown Amplifier At Home
in Home Audio
Posted
I thought of doing this exact thing. I'll have to see if I have one laying around from my car audio days