DasBot

Just wanted to know pricing and ETA on this beast. Looks great. Haven't seen any feedback or buzz on it. Will there be direct connect version available? Have TSP's?

Sorry, I was told by the rep that this was the same board as the Sundown, now I'm not sure because Zenon is a top maker. Now I did find out that the Sundown class D's are build by Tunpo Electrical and cost $140 for the 1500w model... So I doubt that the amp we were selling was made by Zenon. Zenon is quite expensive in comparison to China made amp... Though over there many guys in the same field are brothers or college buddies and they share quite a bit.. (speculation of course). Still great amps and very well priced when comparing to brands and quality you find in a retail setting.

Yes, remember function over fanaticisim. You'll be crossing these up at 100hz either way so going to 6.5" won't get you anywhere. Make it easy on yourself, there are ABS kits that convert a 5x7 oval to a 5.25" component setup. This will speed up install time and get you going.

There are two types of isolators, the mechanical type which is cheaper and the electrical type which is smarter but now out of production. Both do the same job which is allow you to drain only the AUX battery, (bank), so that when you're ready to start your ride, the main battery has been, ISOLATED, (not drained) and is ready to start your engine. The mechanical type comes in two flavors, straight honking relay, (solenoid is just a big relay), and cheap relay with a heat sink. Usually the sink is blue since they all get them from the same place. These can still be found in AutoZone, PepBoys and the like. The other type, my fave, is the electrical type. The first on the scene was the70A isolator, the MBR-70 from Orion Industries. Later the same guys designed a 200A version for Lightning called the SSR-200. Then after Rockford acquired Lightning they made two compact versions since they have the robots there in Tempe. They were SMT versions with Rockford's MEHSA heat sink method. The products were identical but pricewise were different since RF treats the Lightning brand like its dirty bitch. These were called the Rockford CPSR and the Lightning Audio SSR2002. Both were rated at 200A constant current transfer. The electrical type has some brains involved. The mechanical simply switch ON or parallel the AUX batteries every time you start up. You can delay this load by running a switch inside the cabin and switching on only when you want to charge the AUX battery bank. The electrical isolators do this automatically. They won't charge the AUX bank until the front battery is fully charged. They use devices, (same type used in your amplifier's power supply), to do the switching instead of a mechanical switch like the solenoid. Now big feature about using the electrical type besides being smart was the fact that the electrical type had no voltage loss. This of course isn't totally true but true enough. The solenoid types would get hot and when they get hot they build up resistance and resistance = voltage loss. Now they just build them really beefy and say they have no voltage loss, which is true but they have to be within certain parameters. The solenoids are certainly cheaper to build and you can line up multiples in parallel to increase the current passing capabilities. My only beef is that companies like Stinger charge a big toe for one of these. There are several generics that you can get from other companies that work just the same... And remember, they're all made in China anyway. Not that the quality is bad, just that Stinger pays the same low price as everyone else, but because you bought it through a dealer network and it has a cool decal on it, you pay $200+. Dealer price for the Stinger SR-80 is around $12 and around $38 for the SR200 so hunt for those bargains! The other down product of using a solenoid is that it wants to charge your AUX bank all the time. This can really put wear on the alternator. Like I mentioned before, you can add a switch in the cabin so you can charge it when you want. To keep tabs on it, you can have a digital volt meter for the starter battery and a second for the AUX bank. That way you can decide when to load down the alternator and recharge that AUX bank from 4hrs at the river playing Back In Black over and over. As for cheapie DVM

Zenon is THE best in the industry. Even companies like US Amps only attach the devices to the boards then sink them up here. You've been buying DVD players and head units from overseas for YEARS.. What's the diff now? Heck, ADST was importing their boards for many years BEFORE the buyout in 2003. They were sinking and testing them here. What I have a problem with is when it says Made in America and only the carboard box was actually made in America. Diamond was doing that crap.

Did anyone go to the auction? Did Thilo zap up the whole thing?

Pick it up at that price. We build and sell them for $480 with the ceramic motor. Neo motor is an extra $150. A ceramic version of that sub is sold at Parts Express now under the Audio Pulse brand, Axis series, http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=293-618

You're moving from a XXX to a little 8"? Try Blaubox or WinISD.

Send Robot pics and specs. www.robotunderground.com, also try www.pierceaudioproducts.com

Both amps will be charging and discharging together since you have them in parallel. If you want to be able to run down the second battery you'll need an isolator either mechanical, (simple beefy 70A or greater relay), or electrical like the Lightning SSR2002 or Orion MBR70.

Try Robot Underground, they have some HCCA mids for cheap, sound fantastic, avail in 2ohm or 4ohm. www.robotunderground.com

OH, and try www.tcsounds.com for building your own 8" sub. They build/built the infamous Sunfire True Subwoofer gear so I'm sure they have some solutions for an 8" sub that can move 2.25". SJ

Some good examples that I've found are the one from Apex Jr., http://www.apexjr.com/speakerstuff.html Also if you can find them now, the Audiobahn Ax800 is great as well as the Diamond Audio CM3 8", comes in dual 2ohm and dual 4ohm. That's for subs.. For a threeway, the Orion 8mb was awesome. SJ

We can custom make you anything you want or just sell you raw wire.

MOFO-12 from Power Acoustik.