ibanender

A guy sent me his car to work on for a few months. I received it today and I've still got to figure out what I CAN do in it. By the time it's done, I'll be doing what I can in the trunk and redoing the door panels. The goal (if I can make it fit) is two SAZ-3500d's, a SAX-200.4, four Neo-Pro 10's and four Neo-Pro 8's.

And, thanks to a certain few douche bags on this forum that Mark and Aaron won't do anything about, or actually support, I won't be posting on this forum anymore. So, you can find the build in it's entirety and going forward, here http://www.splbassx.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11208&st=0

Deadening the trunk does nothing when you have 4 18's in a wall. Pretty much anything behind the B-pillar does nothing with a wall, if it's sealed off.

I own, manage, operate, and do all the work for 2 businesses I own.

Security system doesn't do anything when they take the whole car. The trunk will not be able to be opened without knowing the sequence to open it (a bit of trickery on my part) and you won't be able to get the subs out without plenty of time on your hands, in which you earned it. And a guard dog, shotgun, and an enclosed garage with a security on it, that calls the police when it goes off But still is a super nice Accord in my opinion! And in the case of my shop (still a work in progress), by the time you get TO the garage, you've already been on 5 cameras.

Security system doesn't do anything when they take the whole car. The trunk will not be able to be opened without knowing the sequence to open it (a bit of trickery on my part) and you won't be able to get the subs out without plenty of time on your hands, in which you earned it.

Steel coming next week, waiting on a time frame on wood.

Lol, that's a big step right there. A worthwhile step! That amp is way too much for those subs daily. I don't think there is enough space to do 4 8's properly either, at least not without humping the steering wheel. After displacements you're looking at 4 cu. ft., maybe more.

Looking like next week sometime, possibly early in the week, depends when my steel for the Accord gets here.

I have a little experiment I'd like to conduct. I don't wanna see any name calling, trash talking, or otherwise. I just want to see which you feel will sound better, not necessarily louder (but can comment on it) and WHY based solely on paper specs supplied by the manufacturer. I'm talking actual quality overall, what is the better sounding driver. They are all 12" subs. Here are your options, rank them in order best to worst: Option 1: RMS power: 500 watts Coil config: dual 4 ohm Sensitivity: 88 dB 1w/1m Fs: 33.6 Qts: 0.47 Vas: 3.119 cu. ft. Xmax: 10 mm Mounting depth: 6.73" Option 2: RMS power: 1000 watts Coil config: dual 4 Sensitivity: 96 dB 1w/1m Fs: 36 hz Qts: 0.76 Vas: 1.28 cu. ft. Xmax: 11 mm Mounting depth: 9.2" Option 3: RMS power: 350 watts Coil config: dual 4 Sensitivity: 87 dB 1w/1m Fs: 30 hz Qts: 0.45 Vas: 1.94 cu. ft. Xmax: 25 mm Mounting depth: 6.1" Option 4: RMS power: 300 watts Coil config: single 4 ohm Sensitivity: 86 dB Fs: 28 hz Qts: 0.67 Vas: 2.53 cu. ft. Xmax: 11 mm Mounting depth: 5.4"

Can't believe you just said that... That would lead me to believe there is a lower impedance peak, not efficiency. You're talking about SYSTEM efficiency right? There appears to be less voltage drop at tuning (where my voltage dropped significantly), but I still had the same audible output. If it takes less power to make the same output, the driver is more efficient. NSv1 did not have a shorting ring, Zv3 does, that means less inductance. Inductance, to put it as simple is possible, is wasted power in terms of efficiency. My impedance may have gone up at tuning (less power output, less voltage drop) and my impedance possibly went down at higher frequencies (more power, greater output) as my response leveled out above tuning. It used to be kinda peaky at tuning, Zv3 is not, and collectively as loud as the peaky spot was with the NSv1. Again, outside of subjective sound quality observations, the rest is speculation.

Output wise, it's about the same as the NSv1, but it has a little better sound to it. Based on my voltage drop, it seems to be more efficient as well.

According to people who believe specs are the answer to everything, those variables don't matter. You get it. While you are correct, there are different aspects that may be an indicator as to how it may sound, you are also correct in that majority of manufactures do not publish this data. So, you have to go off of what IS available. All of those specs are commonly available to compare between drivers. Again, read the first post, it's quite simple. From the information provided, come to a conclusion, in any application you see fit as long as the application is equal between drivers. If you can not come to a conclusion for one reason or another, don't make excuses, DO NOT POST (this should also further my point that there are too many people on forums that post about things they don't understand or know about).

It makes sense to not care how a speaker sounds in actuality rather than how the paper says it sounds.

Coincidentally, my truck that will be at your shop on Friday happens to have an NSv1 12 in it that might like to be replaced by a Zv3 12...... We can try it out. Let do it. I won't have time to install the new batteries in there I don't think. Maybe, we'll figure it out.

Coincidentally, my truck that will be at your shop on Friday happens to have an NSv1 12 in it that might like to be replaced by a Zv3 12......

You will be, as soon as I start LOL. I'm picking up all the equipment next week after the subs are built. I have to figure out how much steel and wood I'm gonna need to I can order that too, it's not off the shelf stuff. I also have a custom job to do in a truck very quickly when it gets out of the interior place too. I'll post that in another thread before it hits news stands.

I still think port back, sub back will do best, except maybe sub up, port back. I don't have any rattling problems except the occasional noise from the very back wall interior panel, which isn't deadened yet. If you do up firing, definitely make sure you're roof is deadened.

After some discussion with the owner of the car, the install is changing. Now we're going to do 4 Zv2 18's in a wall.

well thats what they said about the crx's when they first got used but now everyone and there mother with a crx dampen's them.also the next best thing is there is only a couple of interior panels.so it will be easy to dampen it and test and remove with in minutes Um, no one deadens them. Where did you get this information from? Mine's deadened, and the loudest CRX's are deadened as mentioned. If I can do 152's with a single SA8, I'm gonna say deadening probably helped. Yup, and not only did I do it once, I've done it hundreds of times without failure. I'd do a pair of SA's before a pair of Z's in that application. The SA-8's are little beasts, but that is just INSANE!! 152.2 in the kick, 148.9 sealed on the dash worth of insane

Have you had those 8's in any other boxes to compare? I ask because you said you've had other 8's that struggled.

WTF are you smoking? Unless the car has been wrecked, then yes, as long as you know even a little about them then they are instantly loud..... So why don't you have one, and why are there other vehicles used, and why are Explorers and Cherokees beating CRX's? I can think of 3 people right off that combined have had 6 or 7 CRX's, none of which were loud, only 1 was wrecked. Why is the vehicle excuse used all the time? Every time somebody has anything pretty loud, it's because of the vehicle? What about Excursions, are those loud? How about a no wall Excursion doing 158's @ 29 hz on the dash? Must be because Excursions are loud..... No? Didn't you just say "The Blazer will be louder in no wall scenarios?" So why can't a CRX be louder than a Blazer if the Blazer is louder than the Mitsu? CRX's can be louder, but it doesn't become an instantly loud setup because it's a CRX or any other vehicle. You still have to know what you're doing like with any other vehicle.

My problem is i have 2 subs with quad 1 ohm coils. So is it more exspensive to make one run at 2 ohm. I think the problem is having quad 1 ohm coils. There's no reason to have a quad coil sub unless you plan on running 8 amps to it. Well they don't make the sub that i wanted with any other coil options so thats what i had to go with. Have you tested efficiency at different loads before? I've tested Class D's that are more efficient at lower impedance than higher, until below rated, then it just goes to hell. It's all subject to the components used. What subs are they?