gss

People are making this way more complicated than it has to be. No, it is not a good idea to use the power wire from the stock amp. For a small upgrade you can run a new 8ga. power wire with fuse, this is not very expensive. Sonicelectronix has 8ga. kits starting at $10.99 For signal simply use a line out converter to convert the factory amplifier's speaker outputs (purple/green+ green/white-) to RCA level, also inexpensive. Sonicelectronicx has these starting around $9. Another option that may save even more money is to choose an amplifier with speaker level inputs. So with a budget of $600 this leaves you $580 for an amp, sub box and sub(s). Many people here assume everyone wants audio on the extreme high end, if you are just looking to increase the bass output from an otherwise factory system you can absolutely do that. It's not going to shake the mirrors off the truck but will be better than what you have now.

All you need is enough to carry 240a 10ft, one run of 1/0 ofc is sufficient. I would do one power and one ground run. More runs will not hurt anything but 1/0 ofc is definitely capable of carrying 240a over 10ft.

The GCON has a plug in the pole so rear clearance is not really an issue. The GCON works well in a sealed enclosure.

Husky Liners, a little cheaper but not much

nothing about this speaker and amplifier combination makes any sense to me

Rockford P1000X5. Just swapped one saturday in place of an Alpine PDX-5, was very impressed with the Rockford.

That's awesome. Nice to see SSA continue to offer the coolest brands in car audio all in one place.

that is for an aftermarket radio, the stock unit does not have a "park brake wire". The info is fed to the radio via data

I seen that.. I thought that someone on here may have a trick or something i haven't heard or thought of.. I was thinking maybe instead of useing the the parking brake maybe they used the transmission or a speed sensor? I would try the ground wire but it only plays while the truck is in park with the break on or off..It's a little more complicated than that with an OE system, it obtains the info through the vehicle's CAN bus data. The system knows everything, if it's in park, if the park brake is on, and if the vehicle is in motion and what speed. It is not a simple work around like an aftermarket unit, you need to manipulate the vechile data at the BCM

Nav-tv has a module to do video in motion in that truck, not cheap though

pretty sure they wont fit but worth looking in to both boxes list mounting depth at 5.375"and that's exactly what the DCON is

Sundown SD 10's would work well. I would also consider DCON 10's

Line out converter (LOC) Have a look at the audio control LC7i with an ACR1. That will give you what you are after. Put one in an F-150 today that had the factory Sony system.

which Fi subs? what coil configuration?

i had the same problem, it's the back panel against the heat sink. I took it off and put some foam tape down the sides where it makes contact, problem solved.

I ran a single GCON on over 1000 for more than a year with no problems. Beat on it every day and it still works great.

still getting some pretty serious excursion, is there much difference in xmax?

So sweet! The wait was the only negative about SSA subs

it's a mono (1 channel) amp, doesn't matter which + or - terminal you connect to. If you wire both subs to 2 ohm and connect one sub to left and one sub to right the amp will see a 1 ohm load. Also if you wire all 4 coils down to a 1 ohm load and connect the + to either + on the amp and the - to either - on the amp, the amp will see a 1 ohm load. Also wouldn't matter if you connected one sub to L+ & R- and the other sub to R+ & L-. there is only one channel, just happens to have two connection points for + and two for -

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i452_speaker-baffles.html something like one of these will help. I don't recommend using the whole thing and sealing the speaker up though, cut it in half and use it on the top side of the speaker. That will keep the water from the window opening from pouring in on the speaker. just a hunch, is it a Cobalt?

I'd have to agree with Alton. I've used these and the previous versions of the TS-D's in my own cars and the shop I work at now sells tons of them. The large soft dome tweeter makes for a smooth sounding speaker that is very difficult to beat for the price.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-12380-x-8-d4-sundown-audio-8-dual-4-ohm-x-series-subwoofer.aspx

I have 2 X12's on a Crescendo BC5500D, as long as everything is used intelligently you will be fine.

and SD3 in the works

very nice! I have a lime green SnapOn box myself