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Dutchie.

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Posts posted by Dutchie.


  1. snappy commnets like "causing the word to end" around here will get you no where especially when you already stated you were over your head. If you fully read the instructions that are posted in the file with WinSd you would have a llittle understanding of the program and what each function means and shows. Yes moving from 32 to 36 hertz while keeping the same volume can have dramatic effects on responce. At a give volume tuned to 32 hertz can give you a nice flat respnonce curve, while moving tuning to 36 could give you a 3-5 db peak with an f3 way above your desired f3. When tuning low and I don't mean 32. 32 hertz is no where in the realm of low, when using an enclosure too large for the driver's Kms it is very possible for the enclosure's "f" to be way above the actual tuning.

    I didn't say all that before because you stated you didn't know anything about designing an enclosure. And most of the time it is easier to give people what they need instead of giving them what they think they want.

    You ought to cut that smart ass attitude out man, I didn't ask for your fancy wording that a normal human has no idea what it means.. Got off of my topic please and I'll recieve help from real people.

    And besides, I'd rather put the x in the 29cg chamber. Thinkin of goin with a 47h slant on the 63 curvature.

    That's exactly the reasoning behind my first post because I knew you wouldn't understand or take the time to google basic t/s parameters and terms needed for designing and using any box building program.

    And no a sealed enclosure will not give you a flat responce curve if it is not the correct volume.

    I do understand something won't behave normally if it is not designed correctly. I was basing it off of proper design :)


  2. A sealed box would have a flat response curve, like a line. A ported back would have a single spot on the curve, where the volume peaks at a certain frequency. That frequency would be the tuning frequency. I wish I could draw a picture for you.

    That makes sense, appreciate it..

    Hope that last part wasn't meant to sound douche-ish... Hard to tell whether someone is bein a dick or actually bein serious over text...

    No sorry, I worded it kinda bad. I meant it is much easier to explain with a picture. That's how I learned it.


  3. I highly recommend going with Fi's recommended enclosure specifications. Winsd will assume you are wiring your sub in series which most t/s parameters are derived from which will be different from parallel wiring and will throw off the response curve. Also the stiffness of the BTL will give you a real funny response curve as well because it is beyond Winsd modelling ability. Nick has stated this numerous times.

    When did I say I was straying from their recommendations? Do you mean tuning frequency? I'll probably be keeping it in the 36-37 range.. Surely straying from 32 to 36 won't cause the world to end..

    Won't cause the world to end, but it may reduce the frequency range you can play.

    I gotcha... This is a little confusing... The lower you tune, the better the SQ/lower the SPL correct? But if you tune lower, does it make it possible to play lower notes?

    The tuning frequency is just where the volume of the notes peak. As in the decibel curve.


  4. Keep up the progress bigjon. The best thing to do is just keep at it and not give it. It sounds like you are making some great progress, which will really help you feel better about life in general. The more active you are, the easier things are and the less stress you put on yourself and your body. Great work man!


  5. Ok let my explain a little more thoroughly. The sub is quieter at ALL volumes. As I said, I have to turn the gain up way past half to get anything that is considered "loud" to me. And that is on 4 volt pre-outs!!!! That is not a port area problem... I know my port area is a little small, but that is something that would affect this scenario at very high volumes/near xmax, not at these volumes.

    You say wiring problem... What wiring exactly? Wiring to my subwoofer? I'll take any advice. Do I have to swap the + and - wires, or can I just reverse the polarity on the amp? (easier to do)

    Check your ohm load with a dmm or open up the box and make sure the speakers are wired correctly. Are they in phase?

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