Nightshade

Power schmower, if the setup isn't efficient to begin with it's not going to get loud off of only double the power. Your going to need several thousand watts to just keep up with single sub setups off of 2K watts. You need to listen to all the people here that are telling you a new box is the best solution and is the first thing that you need to do. While power is important sometimes it doesn't do what you want it to and in this case I know that you'll still be disapointed with a setup in a wall that probably won't even break a 146 off of this more power that your going to add. With the 2 Sundown 1000's that you have and a wall a reasonable number that you should be doing is at least a 150. I know that the 1000's will produce a solid 800+ watts after impedence rise, unless you have an ungodly amount of rise then could be a bit less. The point is that this particular box is not efficient at all. If it's not getting loud of the power you have, it will take too much to make sense to do it. I can do over a 150 in my car in a no wall setup off of as little as 2400 watts, and I'm not trying to compare myself to you but in a way if I'm capable of doing that you should be capable of so much more in a walled setup. Just listen to the countless cries of people telling you to build a new box first. You'll save yourself a ton of trouble and will be much happier with it when you add more power down the road. /rant

Yes, the XS Power batteries are much better than the Kinetiks. Also try another T4k amp and you'll have a much better shot at even breaking a 150. I've seen tons of guys running 2 18's with over 3K watts and not even break 150's. The correct enclosure is going to be key for you to do such high numbers in your vehicle. Efficiency is going to be a great determining factor to how well your subs respond off less power. I reccomend aeroports or precision ports since they offer much more efficiency than a slot port does. Also airspace is going to make a difference. If you add another amp you will need to cut down on some of the airspace in the box to help the woofers have some control. You don't want 8K on a pair of subs in too big of a box cuase the cones will come flying off if your not careful. Also you will need to find the resonant frequency of your vehicle and use that to your benefit when tuning the enclosure. There are too many things to list right now, but it will be a long uphill battle that you'll probably never be satisfied with. I honestly don't see 155's with the equiptment you listed in a daily setup unless maybe you had a Crx.

If it's Db Drag then more than likely you'd be in Superstreet no wall. That is if your setup is below the window line in your vehicle. If you did a wall then you'd be in Superstreet 1-2 if you were going to use 1-2 woofers. Other organizations vary dramatically in classes by things as small as fuse ratings.

If your in Charlotte then you should take a trip up to Troutman to see Jacob at Sundown Audio. He could definately set you up with some Nightshades and some amps to power them. I'd either go with 8 saz2000's, or 4 saz3500's. Jacob is one of the best in the business in customer service and quality. Being that you live in North Carolina why not deal with someone face to face when buying equiptment? I'm also in NC. I live up in Greensboro, so it's about an hour and a half from you. If you need any help or advice I'm pretty much always available to lend a hand or even talk if you have questions. I run all Sundown amps and subs in my car and I'm very happy. It's also extremely convient that my manufacturer is right here in the same state, not to mention that it's only a little over an hour drive to get to him too. His email is sundownz@sundownaudio.com or pm me if you want his shop number in case you would rather talk to him in person. Good luck with your build, I hope that I'll get to see it when it's done.

I'm curious what secret that your talking about.

The IA Death Peanalty's are similar to the Nightshades. Honestly I probably wouldn't run the IA's, but it's a very good quality woofer from some very good guys. I'm patiently waiting for the NSX's to come out whenever Jacob is done with his R&D on them. I hope it's before next year, but I kinda doubt it.

I can tell you from my own personal experiences with resin in enclosures they are louder with resin opposed to without. I will tell you why this is. Since all mdf is is compressed saw dust held together by glue it "leaks" air if you will. By applying the resin to the inside walls of the enclosure it stops air from leaking out the surface of the mdf. Resin if done right is also almost as slick as glass and the reduced drag on the airflow inside the enclosure also helps to be louder. These numbers are completely accurate and you can take them for what you want. I did this test with my last enclosure in my car and here are the results that I came up with. 1. Bare box with no resin, only sealed at the seams of the enclosure with liquid nails did a 146.8 db on the dash 2. I applied 2 coats of resin to the inside of the box only and then tested and got a score of 147.1 db 3. I added 45 degree angles inside the box made of resin and went to 147.6 db 4. I then applied 2 coats of resin to the outside of the enclosure and achieved a score of 147.8db So you can clearly see by applying resin and resin only I gained exactly 1 db. I've already explained why and that is to reduced drag inside and outside the enclosure's surface area, and also keeping the mdf from "breathing" and releasing pressure. I urge those of you that are non believers to do the same test and please post your results. I'm not saying that you will achieve the same gains as myself, but I'm sure that there will be a significant increase in the enclosure over the same enclosure without resin. You have to make sure when doing resin to the outside of the box that you do not put carpet over it because that will increase drag more than the bare surface let alone a resined outer surface.

Tony, you have any free time anytime soon? I have a dual 15 box that we could simply modify to a single 15 box and then throw your aeros into this box. The sub would be in more like 2.7 cubes instead of being in a box as big as yours, or we could even make it a little larger that that if you want. Call me and let me know if you want to do it and we'll give it a try. I should have enough extra wood to do what we need to do.

Here ya go. From what I can tell scores at the headrest are usually down compared to the dash. Here is what the meter stand looks like. http://www.mecacaraudio.com/2009mecarulebo...Stand%20p47.pdf Your right that the scores are usually down from the dash to the headrest, but MECA competitiors build their cars to be loud at the headrest while Db Drag competitors build thier cars to be loud at the dash. There really isn't a fair comparrison unless you were to swap sub boxes. I've heard quite a few MECA guys say that their cars actually get quieter at the dash then what they do at the headrest. Please prove me wrong by showing a 2 or 3 db gain from your headrest to the dash. I know in my car with the dash score I'm almost 3 db down at the headrest, but that's not where I have it set up to peak at.

Everything looks excellent. I may have missed it along the way, but what battery/alternator combo are you going to be running in the vehicle?

Wow that's awesome. It looks like a mini carpeted Pound that Sound enclosure. How does it get down? Can we get a vid of it?

Good luck getting them made. Unless you make hundreds of them those hats will probably cost you $50 a piece with that type of embrodiery on it. The hat I had made cost me $32 for a one of with no custom logo on it.

What you mean like this? This is a one of and god do I feel pretty damn cool to have it. I'm going to get a new one made here very soon. I do agree about getting some shirts in different colors since everyone looks the same when they wear their Sundown shirts to an event. That's what makes me not want to wear mine sometimes.

Not exactly it's already a mono block amp meaning that it's got only one channel. So bridging it isn't possible. It does have dual + and - but they're connected on the inside of the amp. It just makes for an easier install if your running multiple subs to it.

Leave your rca's plugged into the non fading input. That is for the subwoofer or even something like a center channel in a 5.1 system.