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smgreen20

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Everything posted by smgreen20

  1. smgreen20

    Focal Tweeters

    I was going to say... Attenuate the d@mn things. Some people seem to forget that there are things called EQs too. I know don't want them, not enough room, but if you're going to spend that kind of money on speakers, be willing to spend more on other things too.
  2. smgreen20

    old skool lanzar goodness full setup on CL

    Dude!!!! If I wasn't buying an Audison LRx5.1k, I might be after that set. I just want the 50c, 2500, 4150, 4"/1" set and the DC subs. Everything else I'd sell.
  3. smgreen20

    03 GMC Crew Cab Duramax Sysyem Help

    I too am for the most part an SQ guy, but I will take a stab at it. I'd use a SSi/SSp line or higher from TREO. Great SQ, can get down low and will handle plenty of power. For the space you'll have , I'd recommend a single 15" ported to about 27ish Hz. I know you spent $$ on the 10" "vocals",but ditch them. Put your amp/s there if they'll fit, if not then behind the rear seat, and put the +/- distro and the likes under the seat.
  4. smgreen20

    I ORDERED I ORDERED

    No, not really. Just thought some might like to know, but I don't want to start a thread until I can get pics of it to post. I know how stupid loud they can get, just being 2 of them, but 48? And the amps he'll be using are actually Sundown 1500's. 12 of them at 16vdc and loaded down to .5 ohms per.
  5. smgreen20

    $100 components

    Remember, you get what you pay for. If not for the ebay links, we have no idea what size you needed. What deck you have does nothing for us in this matter. When it was stated that we need more details we mean like: What car/truck is it going into, What size do you need, What are you after in a speaker, What price- which you noted, And will it be powered by the HU or an external amp- which you noted
  6. And turning off the rear speakers WILL NOT give you more bass. I'm not to hands on w/RE, but the box you have now would/could be on the edge to port w/those subs, so you might not have to make a bigger box.
  7. smgreen20

    How to read rms wattage with a multimeter

    That would be a bad way to set up a full range amp. The amp doesn't puts out power equally throughout the whole freqeuncy range. (certainly not if u still have a subsonic on ) Yea, I guess It didn't hit me that he's doing the upper end of the freq chart, most people are always asking for the most part about the sub amp. I use 2 tones for the HI's, 1000Hz and 4000Hz, and adjust somewhere in between the difference. It's too complicated for me to explain how I do that.
  8. smgreen20

    I ORDERED I ORDERED

    4??? That's it!!!???? I know a guy who this week is on his way (to where ever) to pick up his ***48*** sa-10's. I'm not sure how many amps, but I think it was 4 Memphis 4000 amps. I'm not sure what year his truck is either, but I want to think it's an '07 F-350. Hurry up Hank...I want to see/hear it.
  9. smgreen20

    I thought I was gonna get heart attack

    My biggest dumbass attack so far has been slipping off the screw and putting a nice hole into a sub. Cheaply fixed thank God. It happens to all of us.
  10. smgreen20

    How to read rms wattage with a multimeter

    Roughly a 50 or 60 Hz tone at 0dB set to repeat on the HU. The math is 100 watts x 4 ohms = 400, square root the 400 = 20 So you'll want to set your gains until the amps speaker outputs read 20 vac. Disconnect the speakers, when doing this, then turn your volume up on the HU to about 75% This is not the best way, but for the most part it will get you close enough. There are other factors to take into consideration too, you'll want to know what the amp actually does just before distortion starts on both the amp and the HU (that's why the 75% volume on the HU- most are clean at that volume), and use the amps birth sheet (if it came w/one) to find out the actual power output it has. Set all sound settings to flat. The only settings you'll want engaged is the crossover and slope.
  11. smgreen20

    How the hell do I remove my door panels?

    My friends '06 Sierra, the window control panel isn't clipped in like on older models, they were bolted to the panel from behind. IIR there was 3 screws total, but I can't remember where the 3rd was, behind the door lock switch??? 1 was behind the door handle latch panel, 1 was behind the door handle (the one used to pull the door shut). It's been about 3 yrs sense I worked on it so my memory is a bit foggy.
  12. They're not clamping the AC, they're clamping the DC amperage that the amp is consuming on the power wires. They make special DC clamps. Most are familiar w/the AC clamps though. The DC amperage along with the voltage can tell you the out put of the amp. Other things have to be considered too.
  13. Most DO NOT have a SSF. I have yet to see one that does, but I only pay attention to 3 brands of HU companies, so that's not to say that some might.
  14. smgreen20

    Most efficient subwoofer available?

    The PG Cyclone is more efficient with the power it uses. Subs 20 years ago had a higher sens compared to todays subs for the sole reason that people want more power, therefor the suspensions need to be beefier, which results in needing more power for the same output, and they need to be able to cool the motor better due to the increase in power. Lanzar had some of the best subs back in the early/mid '90s both in sound ad output. The LANZAR Pro15 has a sens of 98 dB 1w/1m. I had 2 Pro12's w/a sens rating of 96 dB.
  15. Some cars, years back, used Diodes to keep the electrical current going in one direction. That was some time ago, but maybe there's a reason yours MIGHT have one too?????
  16. Personally, I prefer the xover function to be in the deck. Reason 1: Less items to have, less clutter, wire to run 2: Less chance of noise finding its way in 3: In the HU it's all done in the digital domain so no loss of audio or SQ. 4: Ease of control for set up as it's at your finger tips I would love to have the 9255 followed by the 7200. For now I'm sticking w/my CD8455.
  17. Other then the Eclipse I currently use, I wouldn't own another brand other then Clarion. In fact up till this Eclipse, Clarion HU's are all I've ever had. 6770, 7770, DRX9175, DRX9375, DRX9575z , EQH5100, and DPH9300. The 6770 was my 1st HU - sold it and bought the 9175- that was stolen so I bought the 9375 w/the insurance $$. I still have everything but those two. Clarion hasn't made a HU w/all of the features I'm after right now, but when they do, I WILL be getting one.
  18. It's down to you going and listening to speakers w/a CD/song you're familiar with. My ears aren't your ears, so what sounds good to me, might not to you and vise versa. What's your budget ???? Some SQ brands, Morel, Dynaudio, Focal, Rainbow... There's a lot out there, to many to list.
  19. smgreen20

    midrange/ passive crossover compatibility

    As I'm still learning, any links you have on the subject I would appreciate.
  20. smgreen20

    midrange/ passive crossover compatibility

    While I'm not an expert in Xover design, I do build my own and have done extensive research. Yea I'm still learning it all. I'm also sorry to inform you that what I stated is true about using the same xover for multiple sets (in the same line) of various sized comps. PG, DYNAUDIO, RF, JL, MOREL... THEY ALL DO IT! You wouldn't buy speakers from them? I'll use Dynaudio for right now, their system 220/222 and 240/242 use the same xover, different mid sizes, but same xover- X250/X252. When it comes down to it, it's a bunch of coils, caps, resistors and what ever tweet protection you want to use, Dynaudio uses a polysilicon resistor. It's all dependent on the values and what it all adds up to, which should be what the drivers impedance (not resistance) is for both drivers along w/there freq response.
  21. smgreen20

    new truck

    There's quite a bit of room back there actually for a std cab. As far as what subs, it's hard to say. There's a lot out there. Wide price ranges, preference of sound. What might sound good to me might not to you. For that power I'd ave to recommend what I have, 2 TREO SSi12.XX. And yea, I'd do a custom box for the too.
  22. smgreen20

    Xtant 3300

    The price ranges quite a bit. I've seen them sell for anywhere in the 150-450 range. Very nice amps. I can't 100% recall, but I think that the rear two chs are tapped into the front two chs to give it the 5ch operation. It's been over 10 years sense I last saw/played w/one.
  23. smgreen20

    midrange/ passive crossover compatibility

    Which is why I stated Xovers today are not all that complex as people make them out to be. Something is complex if we don't understand. 90% of the time when a company uses a xover, it's used for all of its sizes. 6 1/2", 5 1/4", 4". They look at it as it's the tweeter that remained constant so the xover point should too. It's just limited by how low the comp set will play after that determined by the driver. I will also point out, as I didn't mention the first time around, that the speakers sensitivity will also play a big role, hence tweeter attenuation.
  24. smgreen20

    surprise!!!!!!

    It was a nice touch showing a pic of them, while boxed, in a cart attached to the mower.
  25. Not picking on you today ///5M, but my Clarion 9375 w/9300 did 4.2 volts at 30/33 volume. The Clarion DRZ9255 (states 4v) tested 9volts!! Yea that deck is in a different league.... And yes that was w/a 60 Hz tone.
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