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sotelomichael

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  2. Posted · Edited by sotelomichael

    1. sotelomichael

    2. Texas and I agree to the terms and agree to follow through with them as they are written above.

    3. 2006 nissan sentra 1.8s

    morel integra ovation 6

    sound splinter rl-i8s

    clarion dpx 2251 (2)

    Clarion dzx785usb

    4. I can provide videos and let my friends and family in the scene know about these products

    5. I work for a research firm that conducts studies across the United States helping with transportation planning, physical rehabilitation services, and health care comparisons between pharmaceutical companies here and over border.

    sorry I thought I had more posts :(

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  5. Posted

    There's no way to tell you. It depends entirely on the input voltage of the head unit as well as what your speakers can handle.

    I forgot to ask before, what's the hole on top of the box for?

    I'm sure you mean the small hole on top of the box, not the entire box being open up top right? well to answer both, the whole top of the box was before SPY put the top on just to show the intricate design :D and the small hole that looks like a spot for a 4" speaker, is actually for a flush-mount terminal box. Since as you can tell by the pictures, we did not want to drill holes through the walls of the box (but I will drill just the wall between both subs real small and seal it up with some silicone on both sides to wire the subs to 4 ohm).

    Back to the clarion itself, I know they are rated at true 6 volt preamp, but how do I know for certain other than members from other forums commenting on it? Remember, it's the clarion dzx785usb from clarion. I don't want to over power the components, so some suggestions would be best, I have about 180 x 2 to work with on the amp, and about 120 x 2 max rms on the speakers, I don't wanna burn them! real expensive speakers lol

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  6. Posted

    Wow, the port takes up more room than the airspace for the subs, ha.

    IMO, setting a gain for interior speakers with a dmm is fairly worthless. Just use your ears. Depending on your install of the mids and where they're crossed over, chances are those bottoming out will be the limiting factor, not thermal power handling of the mid and tweet. Plus both the tweeter and mid could start breaking up with less than 120 watts, and you'll just need your ears for that.

    To run active you need 4 channels of amplification for the component set, not just two. So you'd have to get a different amplifier.

    Thanks for the reply! I read the setting gains thread here on SSA and it says you should not run the deck over 3/4 of its max volume, is this generally true?

    Oh, and the morel integra ovation 6, sadly, don't have the tweeter and mid using different power sources, power for both come from the same terminal/signal. But what I'm getting at, is since they are similar to coaxials, should I run them off of 2 way active, or just "normal"?

    Yes, generally 3/4 of head unit volume is a good rule to follow. Most head units will begin to clip somewhere above that level.

    I'm not sure what you mean by active or "normal." Active means a single channel of amplification to each individual speaker to control the crossover going to each speaker. That set of speakers comes with a passive crossover. If you use that crossover, it's passive no matter how you wire it. If you go active you would not use that crossover, and instead use the crossovers on the head unit, amp, or external powered crossover.

    Thanks! I didn't know that clipping was caused by the head unit at over 3/4th of the volume! I'll make sure to not go over that. Also, my morel speakers DO NOT come with a cross over... only the ovation xo come with cross overs, mine are the integra ovation 6... any suggestions as to what I should use on the gain? half, 1/4, etc?

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  8. Posted

    Wow, the port takes up more room than the airspace for the subs, ha.

    IMO, setting a gain for interior speakers with a dmm is fairly worthless. Just use your ears. Depending on your install of the mids and where they're crossed over, chances are those bottoming out will be the limiting factor, not thermal power handling of the mid and tweet. Plus both the tweeter and mid could start breaking up with less than 120 watts, and you'll just need your ears for that.

    To run active you need 4 channels of amplification for the component set, not just two. So you'd have to get a different amplifier.

    Thanks for the reply! I read the setting gains thread here on SSA and it says you should not run the deck over 3/4 of its max volume, is this generally true?

    Oh, and the morel integra ovation 6, sadly, don't have the tweeter and mid using different power sources, power for both come from the same terminal/signal. But what I'm getting at, is since they are similar to coaxials, should I run them off of 2 way active, or just "normal"?

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  9. Posted

    Hey there guys! Last you guys heard from me I was trying to get some help with my burnt voice coil rli-8. Since then I bought 2 of these rl-i8s from Patented17 in the classifieds section. I spoke to Mike (owner of SS) and and I've commissioned SPY (all credit with the box goes to him!) to custom build an enclosure for my subs. He did his best to get the specs in the confined area that is my vehicles trunk, to match the optimal specs for the rli-8 according to the website :D

    The box itself is .3cuft tuned to 33 hz and I know will play down low very well. Here is where you guys come in. I have a clarion DZX785USB (link) that has preout voltage of 6v, and I have a pair of Clarion DPX2251 (link) amplifiers that will be powering up my entire system.

    The speakers for my build are (2) sound splinter rli-8s dvc 4 ohm wired to a 4 ohm load @ 600 watts on one of the amps, and my front stage is a pair of morel integra ovation 6. Now I need help in properly setting the gains to match what I expect from my setup :D

    First off, the front stage, the morel components (link) can handle 120RMS, and the clarion amp puts out a lot more than that (180 RMS @ 4ohm iirc) so I need to set my gains to allow a max of 120 watts RMS to each front stage speaker. I will need to purchase a voltage meter I believe (dmm is it caled?) to accurately tune the gain (voltage) correct? Furthermore, my head unit is active capable, so what is a good setting to have these speakers at? (sorry, I figured if you're taking the time to read might as well ask everything I need :) )

    QUESTION : What high pass / slope, low pass / slope should I use for the front stage?

    Second, the subs will be wired to 4 ohm @ 600 watts, what is a good lpf and hpf for these subs?

    As a reward for listening/reading, here are the pics of my enclosure! Enjoy!

    Here are some pics for you sound splinter fans to imagine what these babies will do! :D

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  10. Posted

    Most likely, your driver got fried from a clipped signal from the amplifier. Be careful with the amplifier gain, especially if you tend to listen to your system at high volume and are using the maximum recommended amount of power for a given speaker.

    Since you're lookin' for a louder system, dual 8's in a shared chamber would be a good choice (or even stepping up to a larger coned driver). For the pair of 8's, I would suggest a single enclosure 0.8 - 1.5 cu ft net volume, tuned within the range of 30 - 34 Hz, with 20 square inches of port area.

    Thanks for the reply Mike! My amp has a maximum input voltage of 4 volts, though my head unit has 6 volt output. That and the amp had a little bass boost on, I should have just taken it off

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  11. Posted

    Coil wobble from having 4 times the recommended port area would cause the coil to unwind, and sending it more power than is recommended would burn it.

    I honestly had no idea a sub could burn up cuz of the enclosure! I guess I'm still new to car audio... Anyway, here are some pictures of the enclosure and the sub setup I had before it burnt out.

    IMG00073-20090527-1316.jpg

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    The enclosure will be given to my brother and he will purchase a DD 1508 and run 800 watts on it in his 1966 austin mini cooper lol.

    Sorry to hear about the trouble. The box is definitely a little big (with tons more port area than you need), which may have lead to some over-excursion which over time knocked the coil out of alignment. Or it could have been a clipped signal to the amp... no way to really know exactly what happened here. 500 watts is the maximum amount of power I would comfortably recommend for the RL-i8, and unfortunately I do not have any spare parts right now. At this point, I am expecting more RL-i8's no sooner than October 1st. I do still have some single 6 ohm TC2+ 8" drivers (same motor as the RL-i8 and Audiopulse Epic 8). Check your PM's!

    Thanks so much for the reply Mike, (and the PM you're a stand up guy!) I liked your subs so much I'm buying another pair of 8s :D They will run off of 800 RMS from a PG Xenon 600.1 (way underrated amps!) But I have a question for you, as per your recommended enclosures. I have not heard the rl-i8s in person in a dual sealed enclosure, but I have heard 1 ported. I must admit I am very impressed by the output @ 500 watts in a ported enclosure, but I've gotten the itch for a louder system. I'm sure 400 per sub and 2 rli8s would be more than enough for my application, but my question to you is this : With 800 watts to work with (give or take any to accommodate SQ) What would be your recommendations for an enclosure on it? I am very pleased with the sleek slender look of the box I currently have, but I think a dual 8" ported enclosure would fit the bill, but I want to hear your input on SQ/output going sealed. (If you can comment) I know I can get another box made with similar dimensions, so should I got dual ported or dual sealed? (Following recommended cuft per type of enclosure to the "T" of course. :D )

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  13. Posted

    i've been in the same situation man. i know, it sucks! i burnt up my 10" kicker haha.. i know that damn smell and will never forget it! i noticed it the same way and eventually overdrove it... i put the dagger in it when and i decided to add a little bass boost and that's what did it.. i ended up sending the sub a clipped signal.. oh well it was my first everything.. did u happen to change any settings on your headunit or on the amp? as for the remote wire being lose i doubt it but perhaps.. someone will chime in if that could be why.. good luck figuring it out. hope i helped a little.

    Thanks very much for the input! I recently made a change since I was initially running active cross over points from my heat unit, but since I purchased some morel integra ovation 6s I had to downgrade to normal without any cross overs, simply running a rudimentary cross over from the head unit. Hmmm... I hadn't had any problems before, but I think I might have heard the voice coil rubbing up inside the woofer, (misaligned?) and I thought it might have been tinsel slap or something. But you raised good points that I had not thought about :) Thank you very much for your reply!

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  14. Posted

    Welcome to SSA, glad you got to hear the Dcon. :)

    thanks for the welcome guys! I've run into a problem in my sound system, I've started a post over at the sound splinter manufacturer forums. If you guys would care to take a peek and provide some advice, I'd be very grateful! thanks!

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  15. Posted

    Hi guys, well I've had this Rl-i8 for about 2 months and it was real good. I had a custom box built for it that was about 36" long, but had 50" of port area, tuned to 34 hz and about 1 cuft of airspace. Man was this sweet in my car. The thing is, I started smelling something odd (didn't recognize the smell) I thought it was my engine, but left the car on to find out what it was (left my music playing fairly loud) and then the bass just gave out. I noticed my amp was running pretty hot and noticed the remote wire was loose (DOH!) could this have been the reason my subwoofer gave out?

    I removed the sub from the enclosure and sure enough the voice coil was burnt black. It was a single 4 ohm voice coil and I was running it off of an Alpine mrp-m850 which was feeding it 500 rms @ 4 ohm. I remember seeing Mike from Sound Splinter posting that the sub could take a little more than 500 RMS, and I figured that's what my amp would do, but surprisingly my sub burnt up :(

    Everything else is in tact, I was just wondering if there's anyone that can fix it? Mike from SS if you could chime in? I think you told me a while back you had no parts for it, but back then I didn't need it fixed, now I do :( Hopefully someone could point me in the right direction? Or if there's any info I left out, I can surely give you guys an update if you care to post in my thread and help me out.

    thanks for your time guys!

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  16. Posted

    hey guys, I'm new here. I've been active over at the CA forums, and diyma forums, new to SSA audio forums, and have tried out an SSA Dcon, so good stuff! :) Just wanted to introduce myself. I'm Mike Sotelo, from texas, been into car audio for about a year now, have gone through numerous systems just cuz I could not figure out what I wanted. Until now. lol

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