achn2b

Man, these speakers are freakin' amazing. If Jacob is still working on an SQ set, I can't wait to hear how those sound. Wide soundstage, clean and detailed, plenty of kick for midbass drivers. They seem a little forward or in your face sounding, but that might not be an issue with the speakers so much as the difference from what they replaced. Since my previous set were 5 1/4" mids, and these are 6.5", they're gonna have much more output.They may be a bit more efficient as well. And the tweeter position of the old set had them firing downward toward the dash a bit, which has been corrected with the swivel feature of this new tweet. Raised the soundstage up a bit also. These sound as good or better than the set of Boston Acoustic Pros that they replaced which when new almost 30 years ago cost twice what this set does. Totally happy with my purchase of these.

It's not about setting by ear, it's about protecting the set from too much power.

Nobody has any advice?

Probably won't have any time to put them in for another couple weeks, but just wanted some info. What crossover point should I use for the woofers to protect them from too much power? Right now my SAX 50.4 needs repair, so I'm gonna be using an old ADS PQ 10 bridged to run them, so probably around 60-80 watts per channel, so shouldn't be too large an issue with that. But when I get my Sundown amp back, I thought I would run that bridged, which would give them what, about 160 watts/channel? I've seen Jacob mention he's been running his off two channels of a 200.4, so I assume that's 200/channel? So what crossover point is recommended, and higher with a shallow slope, or lower with a steeper slope?

I'm running two Sundown amps, now discontinued, an SAX 50.4 for front coaxes and then lineout from that into an SAZ 1000D for the subwoofer. One of the front inputs on the 50.4 broke off, so for a temporary fix, I just ran the outputs from the stereo into the rear inputs. It was just the other day however, that I noticed I no longer had any bass coming from the sub. Now before I go tearing everything apart to see what's wrong, my first instinct was to assume that the line output of the 50.4 receives it's signal from the left and right front inputs. So if I'm using the rear inputs only, no signal to send out to the sub amp. Would this assumption be correct? I really need to send the SAX 50.4 out to be repaired, but I don't want to be without music in the car for that period of time.

Not really, there's a main carpeted section that follows the contour of the recessed part and surrounding area, and then other pieces on the sides snap onto, or overlap it. I haven't really emptied out the whole trunk yet to get a real good idea of what I have to do, as it's not something I'll probably get to anytime soon. When I do, I plan on re-doing the whole system as well.

So I want to build a false floor in the trunk of my Miata, to cover the amps that are sitting in the recessed well of the trunk. Never having done this before, and not too skilled at woodworking, how do I make a template design that conforms to the outlines of the trunk? I know they say to trace it out on cardboard, but how do you get the cardboard pressed up into all the nooks and corners of the trunk so the tracing is accurate, to trace out a line that shows the exact curve or square of the trunk floor? So the final wood floor basically press fits into the corners and walls of the trunk? My thought is to have a floor that covers the entire trunk, with the section covering the amp well removable, and drilled out to allow heat to escape, figure I'd paint it a nice gloss black.

Nothing much, as far as subs go, just a single JL 8W3. Plenty enough for my tastes though, as I said, I'm not really a fan of the boom thump sound, I just want a balanced sound with a good bottom end.

Had to do some work on my system, my MDF speaker mounts had rotted away in my doors, so while I had the car apart replacing them, I decided to also install the SAX 1000D I had bought a year or so ago, and hadn't yet gotten around to putting in my system. This was to replace the Alpine MRV T-505 that I had been using as a sunb amp. Wow, the difference in bass output is amazing, this is almost too much bass. I don't want my car to sound like the typical boom thump that you'll hear in just about every town in America, but right now it does. Bass just completely overwhelms the satellites, even with my bass settings on the radio set at -6. I've got gain at about 60%, not sure of the exact crossover point, but it's pretty low, probably around 60-80hz. I know I need to do some tweaking of the crossover and gain points, cause on most stuff, it's obvious the bass is coming from the rear. With the Alpine, except for a great once in a while, bass seemed to emanate from the front, along with the satellite speakers. I've been on other forums where they've said that Alpine amps didn't really have a lot of balls for bass output, but this certainly demonstrates the fact. Once I get the Sundown set up right, I'm sure it will sound amazing.

that's a shame. The 50.4 was just what I was looking for in an amp for satellites; small footprint, with decent power, and flexible enough to set it up to do what I wanted. And it sounds great, too. Glad I got one when I did.

I wasn't planning on replacing my Alpine with a 1000D until next year, but for $280, I'll probably order one before the end of the month. Should go nicely with my 50.4.

Don't have definitive measurements, but it seems pretty ballsy. With the stock radio power, I usually listened at about 34 on the volume knob, and with windows open needed to crank it up to 40 or so to even hear it. Right now, I'm listening to it from around 18 tp 23 or so usually, and to the upper 20's/low thirties when I really crank it. Not sure if I've go the gains set quite right either, it seemed to reach distortion rather early, but then after I had set them, I notieced that the rear stock speakers had been playing as well, off the stock radio, so they were probably the cause of the distortion. I just haven't had the time to get around to tweaking everything. Bass is noticeable from the rear just a bit, so some tweakimg with gain/crossover points is needed there as well. Right now though, I just want to listen to it, not fiddle around with knobs.

Finally got all the pieces together and got the system intalled in my Mazda 3. Bought one of the refurbed 50.4's from db-r at the great price they were offering them at to serve as the power for my satellites. Using an old set of Boston Acoustic Pro 5.4's that I've had for years and never did get around to putting into a car for now. The power light adds a ghostly blue-white glow to the interior of my 3. So far, it sounds absolutely amazing.

Think he means the 1000D, which has been around fopr a while, I don't know how long. So yeah, probably just drunkenly mis-spoke.

"lowpass" sends frequencies below a given crossover point, just as "highpass" sends signals above the selected crossover point. Doesn't matter what frequency the crossover point is. Component speakers will have a crossover point somewhere around 2500-3500hz, depending on the model. The highpass sends signals above say, 2500hz to the tweeter, while the lowpass sends signals below 2500hz to the woofer. I just ordered one of the refurbished 50.4s from db-r. Channels 3 and 4 have a low pass crossover adjustable from 50-5000hz, basically the 500hz crossover point with the 10x multiplier switch selected. Anything below 5000hz will be sent to channels 3 and 4. That's what I'm going to do.