dB Don

It is a version 1 amp.

http://youtu.be/1t8onY0QjEY

lol I agreed with you guys yes, but you can't say any one way is better than the other. And not once in my life did I ever sell anyone anything more than they needed just make money on a product. Actually I wasn't even a salesman I was the guy doing the install and I usually saved them money with what I learned over the years. I even would tell customers to return items that were vast overkill for what was needed. Anyone who has talked or worked with me will agree I am sure.

I apologize for my crappy filming and editing skills, my talents are elsewhere.

So as you can see there "IS" a right and wrong way to do people requests of getting louder but you must first have all the information or you fail even before you have started. In all my 20+ years installing I have been spot on when I know all the information about a request. If you notice one common thing among all answers is if you have any budget left over it has to be put into the cabin and getting it to be supportive of the bass, getting back gains just from sealing holes or deadening a cancellation from moving panels can make bigger gains than adding power or cone area in some cases so it always needs to be a third option. There's no need to over-complicate things when you know all the information from a request, so if you see guys asking how to get louder ALWAYS ask for all the information first.

Ok so here are a few examples: 1. Guy comes into shop, he has a minivan his mom gave him for his 16th birthday and he has a 1000w clarion amp and two 10" craptasic ten inch subs. He says he does not compete and will give up whatever space is needed.... "I want to be louder" he says but cannot afford another alternator or batteries. -What do you recommend? 2. Guy comes into shop and is a regular street competitor but already has say, two DD95 series 12" subs and a 2000wrms amp. He cant go more subs because he is limited to a couple 12". -What do you recommend? 3. Business guy comes into the shop and wants a kick ass loud set-up but doesn't want to give up much space past a sealed single 12" in the rear corner, and will never compete. Money is no object and its a 1994 fully restored acura integra hatchback. -What do you do? Each case has a guy who wants a louder system but more cone area is not always the answer. Tell me what you would do in each case and I will tell you if your correct or not.

Also keep in mind when you buy more power you have to buy more supply power as well. More batteries, wire, alternators, etc...... So what Alton's point is if you can add cone area, explore that option before you decide anything else, unless your limited by a certain class restriction. That's all ya need to say Alton

In reply to the cone area is king comment I would have to say that there is a time for power and lots of it and there is a time and place for cone area over adding power. Learning what situations call for when wanting to get louder, lower or whatever is the real truth. I can explain if anyone needs. My vehicle qualifies for IASCA middleweight class I am limited by four 15" and the Stetsoms got me a 157+ and if/when I ever see a certified show I want to knock it out of the park. That's why I need more power. The N3's were not limiting.

I am clamping just a hair over 3kw so that's a lot more than most will get from this amp. And I run it at .35 ohm (rise to 1.3 ohm) so that and the 18 volt account for the increase over 1500 wrms. So it's more like 750 wrms per subwoofer.

Well it's no where near as loud as the stetsom 7k's but who really drives around with 162 dB all the time. This will do me just fine till I get my new amps!

Where is the "like" button.

Oh shut up Nick! You had me at "Make speakers in the states" Great post!

Justin has went to EVERY show, and has gained alot of King of Bass points making him the champion. With each entry he has also gained the most entries to the free SMD subwoofer, thus winning him the SMD woofer in the draw at the end of the show. This goes to show what going to EVERY show and being there each time can get you. Congrats Justin! It pays to support manufactures who support the shows at the roots, this is one prime example!

Sorry bout the third video it got cut off for some reason. Anyway this show was a 161.3 dB drag and 158.7 bass race. I think I could have had a better start but it is what it is right

Sad that the windshield imploded before I could get a full burp out of it and show what it can really do maybe next time. So far I have had a IASCA and now a USACi SQ judge say they have never heard music so loud and so clean. Makes me smile all this hard work and tweeking is coming around. Also you will notice I did closed up scores Next time I will do it the official USACi way. Look at the scope below, I was just getting it starting to ramp up when I noticed the window let go.

yes he is the youngest one to come out this year to shows I think he is 19-20 and his system is relatively small. Goes to show others that you don't need to be the loudest to win you just gotta be dedicated enough to stick with it and go to every show. Something tells me he will upgrade soon. He says thanks to AA he is motivated to go bigger next year.

He has a single 18 on 2kw and has gotten 147.4dB and constantly wins 129.9 bass race. If I had to add up his miles I would guess 3000 miles.

Ya Trod, then I wouldn't have to mod every subwoofer I decided to keep in my vehicles

Its already been proven that Fi parts are far superior to other parts that may seem similar aside from a few minor details but those minor details are what make it the most durable and affordable option in the world when it comes to lifetime durability and performance. Others out there come close in some price margins but when you get into the higher level stuff the gap between Fi and others is really evident. And this is taking $ per $ comparisons. I currently used DD, DC, AA, Fi, Macrom, Mach 5, etc... and I always see the build quality in AA/Fi and come back to it time after time. I am always trying new products when I see new lines and I am very unbiased. No product is perfect and I can list at least one thing I would make better on any woofer to suit me or the product better, but thats normal. I am still waiting for forced air cooling(maybe peltier cooling) with digital thermal readouts going to the dash to be a standard option on subwoofers You can put me on the first line on the waiting list to buy those

Nick is right, if you don't know what your doing please stick to the N2's on music. If you do have advanced understanding of what to do and what not to do then by all means pick up some N3's.

I got BTL's I would give ya all the demo time you need. Only I am in SK. But you cant go wrong with the BTL series, they got something for everyone.

Speakerboy, yes they do lows just fine. It behaves very similar to a mayhem, only with ALOT sharper teeth.

ya Phi, that girl was the stereo shop owners daughter so she has heard plenty of loud set ups before. Most of the people just bailed before it got real loud and some of the ones who stuck in there made it to the video. I always ask them if they want to go louder and I will step it up each time till they hop out. Its mean to just let em have full pressure right away lol

Still perfecting this beast but heres some show pics.

What I meant is if you were to calculate my tuning on paper it would be 38 but if you actually measure in vehicle tuning it is 32 hz. I peak at 43-44 hz for a burp though.