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with your current amp and head unit, you wouldn't be able to run active; my friend has the md42, and the high pass filters on his amp only go to 500hz, so both the amp's and HU's high pass filters are too low to run tweeters active (unless the new md42 amps have higher high pass frequencies). might just be easier for you to go passive for now with what you've got.

i'd stick with a properly made/tuned ported enclosure for your subs if you want max output as opposed to sealed.

i've heard the kappa's.....imo, they're a little more on the harsh side (lots of highs). but everyone has different tastes in sound, so i'd recommend listening to a bunch of speakers and choosing what sounds best to you. and of course, a proper install will help them sound good too.

if you need more wire than the kit provides, you could use welding cable as a cheaper alternative.

just like the others said, u can't go wrong with RF power series or Sundown SAZ-amps; i've used both, and they're awesome amps that do more than advertised power. and on a side note, i've had excellent customer service with Sundown.

Fluke DMM's here, but I'm an electrician so I already had them on hand. They're durable and reliable, and it's a well known brand in the electrical field. I also use Triplett and Amprobe branded products, which are excellent as well. You can't go wrong with any of these 3 brands IMO; just make sure it has all the features you need.

I ran the Alpine Type-X reference series (6.5") before.....the tweeters were smooth and they sounded clean, but lacked midbass and would bottom out pretty easy IMO (was running 90 watts rms each). My RE Audio RE series components (entry level) had better midbass and handled power better than the type-x refs. I'm running Rainbow and DLS in my cars now, but like everyone says, it all comes down to personal taste in sound, so it's best to demo some speakers before buying them.

hey guys, thanks for the suggestions! i'll let you guys know how things turn out....

Hi everyone, I just picked up an E8 subwoofer and I want to build a ported box for it, just a basic rectangular design with a slot port. The specs call for a .60 ft^3 tuned to 30 Hz, but when I use my vent calculator, the port length is very long (100", using a port of 10.5" tall by 2" wide). My box can't be bigger than 30"W x 12"H x 12"D because of space limitations. Would I be able to make a good sounding box for the sub that won't exceed my max dimensions? Any suggestions? I was wondering what kind of specs (actual box size, net ft^3, tuning, etc.) are you single E8 users running? This will be my daily sub, so I'm looking for SQ, but still want it to wang for a single 8". Thanks.

true....i was surprised when i saw all of the technical info in his Gladius/Deuce/etc. manuals. i actually read the whole thing because i found it to be informative and interesting

thanks for the info...i was worried that there would be a noticeable difference in SQ; well, maybe only audiophiles would be able to tell. i think i'll buy the deuce just for the headroom.

Hi everyone, I need some advice! I recently took out my Zed Gladius w/Burr Brown to send it in for repair. I have the chance to buy a Zed Deuce without the B.Brown upgrade. Would there be a difference in SQ between the two amps? I know the Deuce has more power, so it might be better overall for my comps. I'm running a set of DLS UP6i's with the passive crossovers, which is rated at 150 wrms, 180 wmax. Does the Burr Brown make much of a difference, or will the extra power (without BB) make my comps sound better? I know it'll get louder, but I'm worried about the SQ. What would you guys recommend? Thanks in advance.

I'm a noob here, but I called Zed Audio today because I have problems with my Gladius amp, and the "tech" said I need to send it in for repair. Little did I know I was actually talking to Stephen! Talk about excellent customer service! So I asked him approx. when the new amps will be out; he said hopefully by July, and they'll all have Burr-Brown. He told me that although it's a class D, I wouldn't be able to tell the difference in SQ vs. a class A/B (well, at least maybe for my ears since I'm new to this game). Just thought I'd share a little info on my experience. I'll definitely be buying one of his new amps just to hear it for myself.

Not sure if you bought the RE6.5C's (or something else) already, but I had a set a few months ago. They replaced my Alpine Type-R components (spr-17s), running of an Alpine pdx-2.150 amp. I ran the RE's with the included passive crossovers. In my opinion, the RE's sounded more "musical" and had better midbass. The RE tweeter is crisp, but it is bright and can be somewhat harsh depending on the music or quality of the recording. But overall, the RE's just had more detail and was nicer to listen to. I believe they're a good sounding set for the price; I paid $110 brand new for mine, and I'd take them over the Alpine Type-R's that I had (which cost me about $80 more---I live in Hawaii, where everything is more expensive:)). But I highly recommend listening to different components and pick whichever one sounds best to YOU. And of course, proper installation and tuning is key to making a set of comps sound good. FYI: the top mounting depth of the mid is 2 7/8"

interested in a SAX-100.4 is it the "d" version? lmk. thanks.