jcarter1885

Yeah thats the same reason why I didnt build my box in the car and seall off the trunk since I dont have a ski hole like some people do. I took my spare tire out since it was under the box and would of been a hassle to get to it everytime I got a flat. I would rather get a used tire to use until I get a good tire on my car than a spare (just dont trust spares especially with the extra weight that my car has in it).

welcome to the SSA Family

Im still not understanding what the point of that was, maybe I missed it. wow, didnt know an amp could do that since I only buy them for speakers.

I think both are good options but the best option isnt even listed an its less expensive with better quality and customer service than what you listed. Sundown Audio SAZ-2000D FTW!!!!!!!!!! especially during the month of July while the sale is still going on.

first of all whats wrong with the car, I have plenty of mechanics and even dealerships blame the reason my car was acting up was becasue of the system(when they fixed it, it was a different story; usually thats the first thing they blame it on since its an add on and its easy to say it is the system than anything else). It can be the system(dont get me wrong); now if it is the system then 9 times out of 10 going with a less powered system will still give you problems, maybe you need to upgrade your electrical (if you cant get an high output alternator then get some group 31 batteries or upgrade your starting battery and a 31 battery) get a voltmeter so you can tell if your straining your vehicles electrical system so you can turn it down. I think there are a lot of ways to keep your system because only 1200rms give or take wont hurt your car that bad unless you dont have the proper power to back up the amp and cars electrical draw. just my .02

better battery, optima yellow 31 or deka intimidator 31 series. thankx for the input.

x2

x2

personally to me it doesnt even matter right now because I dont want to kill the amp without the right batteries. I have been doing so much to get the car up to date and still no where close but thats would I love about car audio because their is no end in sight. Hey Derrick when you had that prototype in your car what batteries where you using to feed juice into the SAZ-2000D, if that was you but I cant remember which one of you guys had it; if it wasnt you could you still find out for me. thankx

If that is directed towards me then I can say the only reason why I did tune my box this way is because I never heard anybody who had a box tuned this low, the lowest I heard in person was around 30 Hz. Personally I thought it would be more of a temporary box then permanent, thats why I bought extra mdf so I could make another one; I even researched and couldnt find anybody online or youtube lower than 28Hz. Then I looked up all the specs on the 12" cvx's and notice they could do 20-500Hz and the FS was 26.4; so I thought why not just go for 26Hz. After building the box and putting the subwoofers in and adding power, me and my buddies who were into car audio were more than impressed so thats how the box became permanent. It was everything I wanted, the best lows and bass; I had the best of both worlds. When the subs were placed in my friends car, a smaller box tuned to 30Hz I was built the same way (one sub on top and two seperated by the port) I like the numbers and output it gave but wanted lower. I wouldnt make anybody else's box tuned this low but I will always keep this in mind when it comes to my boxes in a car just for my preference. I also have to switch up what I said earlier, I hate higher tuned boxes in cars with trunks because of the noise the trunk will give off; me and my friend have been trying to shut his trunk up for the last two years from that nasty noise on the outside and nothing seems to work (his is only caused by three 12"-CVR's). Meanwhile my trunk flexes all day long with no rattle whatsoever with only one method of dampening so far, which was also a plus in my book but it that is not the only sound dampening that will be done. I guess after hearing how deep and low the bass is in SUV's it always made me shoot for a way to get a car to sound like one with the system being in the trunk and not in open air; honestly I think I got as close as I could without to much sacrifcing from output. My friend also kinda had the same theory as me with trying to get a sytem in a trunk to sound like a SUV, he went with two 15"s tuned to 29 or 30 Hz (which i know is two different boxes, amps, cars, installers and setups) but we both love how much lower my sytem got compared to his; which till this day he is changing up his system so it can get lower than mines. All that may sound stupid or whatever but I never knew what I wanted because I only thought 18"s got the lowest and then 15"s; when it came to vehicles I always noticed that SUV's got lower than cars in every scenario so then I was told 12"s could do the same just depends on the box and install. Thats when I sat down and just did a science experiment and at the end of the day it worked out perfect for me. Yeah I do know that Im losing hella output which is good but not the most important aspect to me in car audio, the sound that it gave off was impressive while still getting loud. Once I get my SAZ-2000D in I will make a video and get metered, I would love to compete but I want another vehicle were I can put multiple 15's or 18's in and get great numbers with higher hz than what my box is. I do have a question for you (most companies on this forum) only rate the subs Fs, how far down would you go to tune your box or does it mattter just depends on what your goals (output or low deep bass). If a sub has a Fs of 38Hz or higher is ok to tune around 30-32 but you will lose some output or what? thankx for all the input and sorry for getting this off topic.

post a picture of the amp showing the terminal side because I think I may have found a old manual on Rockford Fosgates archive that may help you well nevermind didnt refresh the window while looking, beat me to the punch

x2 yeah reading sucks for me the other day, didnt notice you were gonna be running at 2 ohms. Just dont try to send out more power than the amp will produce at that ohm load

about how many coats did you spray on, I started talking all the panels that I want to make a darker color and should start covering them some time tomorrow

haha

yeah it looks as if he did

I am waiting on my sundown saz-2000d and i want new subs, i currently have 3 kicker cvx 12"s in a 6.4ft^3 @ 30 Hz. I wanted to keep my box cause its perfect and the best i built and thought about getting 3 12" Icons but dont want to underpower them. So lately i been wanting one 18" xcon or two 15" icon in a 6.15ft^3 @ 30Hz, 31Hz or 32Hz(havent made my mind up). what would be the best route, appreciate all the info.

Down here in Miami, were seeing about the same type of temps(with 90% humidity) that your seeing around your way. Post your results on how well that Heat Wave works because I got a dark navy blue car and while probably not as bad as your car, it still attracts a hell of a lot of heat. This is something I might definitely be interested in. I hate getting in the car and not being able to breath. Oh yeah I understand about that Florida heat just left Tallahassee in February after beind down their at school a little over 5 years and had this problem their too. Yeah Im probably going to go with the Motor Mat Pro, but Im waiting for someone from Second Skin to give me a response on the best way to go about this process so I can hurry up and get it done while the temperatures are still hot so I can compare the results and see if it was effective or not.

box looks great and good build log so far, it feels good to see other Texans doing big things in car audio. I am gonna be building a new box within the next few months and want some bracing, I noticed that you guys used a 2x4 instead of a rod like some people did in their box and was wondering which has an advantage or is it just really personal preference to which style you use. thankx

Welcome to the SSA Family I think the Sundown SAZ-2000D may be a little to much unless you keep the gains down and watch how you control the volume knob, I would go with the Sundown SAZ-1500D since they are underrated.

oh yeah cover all your wires with the plastic wire covers that seems to help when all else fails also

check your grounds, run a different pair of rca's becuase the one's you are using could be bad or your amps may be to close together

yeah thats what I have been thinking especially with that saz-2000d those icons would come to life, the only problem is I never had a 15" subwoofer and been wanting one plus that Xcon is wifey material. I finally got the company narrowed down after a year now I hope it doesnt last that long for which one they offer because their both great looking products with excellent reviews.

did you use any sealer or clear coat on top or just straight black paint. sorry for all the questions just really impressed with how yours came out and have been skeptical about doing mine for some time now.

the best result is to change your ground in your engine bay area, whether its the alternator to engine block or cars frame. if your car is like mine and the alternator does not have a grond wire then change the wire leaving the engine block going to the cars frame with 1/0 gauge and make sure you scratch all the paint off till you get bare metal surface. i had the whine problem for over three years, tried all the methods(grouding rcas, extra ground fro the head unit, moving amps, buying expensive rca's and going back to cheap rca's, buying different head units, then buying better amps) nothing seem to work completely. some of these tricks reduced the sound but it would still be noticeable until i cut the bass on. once i added the upgradedd ground have not had that problem in over a week since i did the process and im completely happy cuz thats been driving me crazy forever

yeah that stock color trim panel sucked, I like the new color and you gave me some ideas for my car. what did you use and the process to get it to that finish so it will last in heat and not fade? also what would you reccoment to cover screw holes in plastic panels before i do some coloring to the panels.