jcarter1885
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Content Count
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Everything posted by jcarter1885
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Fi HC 12"s are sold, box for the Fi Neo 4.7 15" is getting built once my slot with my builder opens up.
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It's crazy the size of these things, they are bigger than most car factory 6.5" midbass motors.
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Passenger side footwell light is finally flush mounted into panel to match the driver side.
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No more heavy ass AGM in the trunk anymore, I know my shocks and tires on the driver side love me know for the almost 60lb weight loss. Lithium hear we come, lithium charger will be ordered this week. Once I charge the D4S LTO6.0, it will be installed in the car.
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I finally upgraded the rear fuse block in the trunk to a heavy duty SMD one, definitely worth it.
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I loved my Evil mids when I had them, glad you could join us.
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So when I installed these horns under my dash, the panel that was there housed my footwell lights and it needed to be removed to complete the install. So I uninstalled the footwell and just had them zip tied temporarily until I had time to get around to finding a permanent location. I ain't going to lie I impressed myself with how factory the driver side turned out.
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Yes they are which is perfect especially upgrading from a group 31 battery in the trunk. You and me both, I still make a decision on what's next. I just bought a new house and that's been taking my time up, but on a side note I do have a box design for my Stereo Integrity HT18 sub that will be going in my living room.
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1 of 2 new Lithium batteries from Down4Sound (LTO 6.0). This battery only weighs 8lbs. and with two it will be 16lbs. total vs my almost 80lb Odyssey Group 31AGM that's in the trunk now. My shocks will thank me later.
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I ordered these buss bars for my D4S LTO 6.0 battery a day after and they got here before the battery did. These will be used to connect both of my lithium batteries in the trunk and allow me to run 5 power and ground connections.
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I replaced the underhood Jim's MachineWorkz fuse block with an SMD, was just overall better for my application and more durable. I love the Jim's and for the price you cant beat them at all, but the lids are just too brittle for me. The SMD is solid for sure with thicker lids.
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The trunk wire will be cleaned up when I get smaller lithium batteries and a different battery box but this will do for now.
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Fixed a lot of those messed up terminals from shop minus 3 of them, but I ran out of copper lugs so I'll have to order some more. I now have dual power runs from the front battery to the rear battery, since I added one more run. These Jim Machine Workz fuse holder are nice but the lids are flimsy and crack easily so I'll be ordering SMD one's for the under the hood and the trunk.
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So my OCD was getting the best of me and I decided to take off the heated red and black shrink wraps off the 2/0 welding cable wires going to the fuse block. I was going to wrap them like the terminals I installed that I just tape up with telsa tape once I crimped the terminal on. This is how the shop I took my car to last year crimped the terminals to my wires and just covered it with heat shrink. Luckily the trunk ones were going to get redone when I go lithium and different battery box. But now I have to redo 8 crimps, two under the hood and 6 in the trunk. Im not a shop and I would never send a car out like this so I just couldn't imagine they would. I just don't understand why would you strip off so much wire skin for no reason.
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Box is gone
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Yes sir at the beginning of November I did.
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No sir, actually it's up for sale as we speak. Ported rear deck 4th order is coming soon with LEDs inside, stay tuned.
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In order to add two more power runs to the rear battery terminals I had to remove this heavy ass box by myself. I still need to order the second run of welding cable from front to back. I'll add the fuse and dual 1/0 adapters to the amp when I get a shorter amp board. But wires are ran from the terminal to the new fuse block. Don't worry about the rat nest of wiring, once I get my new lithium battery for the rear I will make all the runs from battery terminal to fuse block shorter for a cleaner look.
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The first box I ever built by myself was horribly constructed with uneven port and bad cuts, but it slammed so I was happy.
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Dope build bro, that enclosure makes the 15” Evil look small
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I put the rear fuse block up front under the hood and added the new fuse block to the rear. I'll be adding two more runs of power wire (one from the front battery and the other from the Sundown amp) so I needed one that allows more connections in the front and rear.
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I will be upgrading both Odyssey AGM batteries to XS Power Titan 8 Lithium batteries and they will not require new terminals. Which I ordered from Jim's MachineWorkz along with my new fused distribution block for the rear trunk power wire runs.
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Need to know what to upgrade.
jcarter1885 replied to supremacmed94's topic in Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Like posted above go for 2/0 welding cable, will save you some money. Upgrade your batteries to AGM if you haven't already. Install a volt meter to monitor trucks voltage and one to monitor amps voltage. -
Thanks Aaron I appreciate it.
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One of the coolest features on the SSA Bass Meter is the Bass Cam VID_20230201_090648.mp4 VID_20230201_090834.mp4 VID_20230201_090839.mp4