jcarter1885

Ill be careful about purchasing a mojo for $75 but they are good subs, they probably retail for $350 or better depending where you get them from.

both of them in the right box will hit hard, but the 2-12's will usually win that one.

Glad you could join us.

Basically we think that what fits will get the loudest, if you want to throw 2-15"s or 2-18"s in there and the box is too small you will be choking the subs and just wasting your money. So grab one tough ass 15" subwoofer or 2-12" subs since that the space you have for it and it will do its job in getting loud and sounding good. If you arent sure about the XCONS then check out other subs but the 12"s or 15" is what you want. Just my .02.

I dont know how serious they are, email Jacob if interested in them and Im sure he will give you ideas on where to put them or how to install them were there seeing the least amount of vibrations (I use padded feet for my subwoofer amps).

Yeah you dont want to put batteries on straight concrete because it might slowly drain them, leave them on the mdf and they will be fine.

x2, I would go with the Sundown SAZ-4500D.

I dont think you will have the room for 2-18"s, it looks like you have room for 2-12''s after displacement (port, subs and bracing) when I put you max dimensions in a box calculator 39"w x17"h x 19"d. Those 12"s would have the room to make a good enclosure and not be choked by a small box like the 15"s or 18"s.

Look at the Sundown SAZ-1000D also, better than all that is listed.

what im asking is will the zx750.1 power two 12" CVX kicker's and what proper settings i should have set for my CVR 12"s via amp and head unit Thanks Bump... want to know if it's possable to run two kicker CVX's off a ZX750.1 amp also if it is should i get 2ohm or 4ohm was also wondering if it would burn up my amp I understand the 750.1 amp is rated at 890 RMS but the kicker CVX's are rated for 500 RMS each will this make a huge difference Get a DMM and set the amps gain setting using 750rms and not 890rms so you wont harm the amp or speakers, the CVX's are 750 rms and CVR's are 400rms. The amp wont make them shine but it will definantly get them moving ( I have around 700 rms give or take a little on my 3-12" CVX's and they sound good). Get the dual 2 ohm version and wire them in series to 4 ohms each (they will see a final ohm load of 2 ohms).

Put me down for one or two.

Yeah you can strap them, you should see 1800rms @ 2ohms. Go to Sundown Audio's website and Jacob posted a tutorial on there about strapping or just email him if you need anymore special directions.

I was on audioque.com a minute ago looking at their subs, the HDC3's and the picture of the 15" shows them just using wire ties to tie it to the basket (just click on the photo to enlarge it). Just my .02

Glad you could join us.

Have you looked at any subs lately, what did you like or curious about. Check out SSA Icons, FI Q or BL, DC Level 4, Incriminator Audio Lethal Injections or Flatlynes, etc.

What other equipment would be in this install? What electrical upgrades have you done to your vehicle? What amp will you be using or dont know as of yet?

If you can do 6.0ft^3 or better after displacement(port, subwoofer and bracing) then I dont see why 2-15"s wouldn't work.

I would say cone area only has an advantage if in the proper enclosure, in my opinion. I have 3-12" Kickers CVX's in my car and I have the right box size just not enough port area, so 2-12"s would get louder and sound better in the right size box with the right size port area. You can set the gain on the amp to play a certain rms, there is nothing wrong with some extra headroom. I would email Nick at Fi caraudio and ask him what would be the optimal box to use with one 18" with some extra power(you can make a box smaller and give a sub a little extra power). Did your friend get them with BP Power or stock?

My main concern is if you even have the room in the trunk to fit an 18" subwoofer without choking the sub in too small of a box.

ok appreciate ya, 2 XS Power d3100 it is.

I drive a 2003 Saturn Ion with a stock alternator 105Amps, I dont compete just daily driving and live in Dallas so my trips can be an hour or more(but not everytime I leave the house). Im planning on doing some electrical upgrades to the vehicle and just dont know how to go about it, so my SSA family help me out. I have a Sundown SAZ-200oD (200A), SAX-125.2 (60A) and a four channel in he future probably SAX100.4(90A), so I wanna plan these upgrades around all the three amps(around 350A, give or take a little) and not what I currently have. Question #1: Do I need an High Output alternator or not, if so I have found a 200Amp one for my car and I will get that? Question #2: If I get an 200A High Output Alternator, what batteries will I need to go with this setup (one stock plus two group 31's, one stock plus one group 31, or no stock and two group 31's)? Question #3: If I dont get a High Output Alternator, what batteries will I need to go with this setup (one stock plus two group 31's, no stock and two group 31's)? Before I made this post I was just gonna get rid of the stock battery since it is located in the trunk sharing the same area as the spare tire and getting just two group 31 batteries. So thanks guys for any input and pros/cons for going with a High Output Alternator if you recommend one or if you don't recomend one.

Check you power and ground wires to see whats stopping the amp from receiving power.

Nobody is really going to give you some good input on what to do since its not realistic, tell your friend to keep 1-18" and port it and call it a day, that 1-18" will sound way better and louder than stuffing two in there. Regardless of how many questions you ask no one is going to be like yeah thats gonna work cuz its not. I would sell an 18" and keep one, you know its good enough so why even try and waste the subs with that little potential or airspace (sometimes you gotta just realize your friend is wrong and wake him up to understand that wont nobody be like wow if they see 2-18"s in a small box that sucks, everybody will be like cool pumps but shitty system).

Lets do it this way, sorry for all this just want to get it right. How many AHs for each example? Example 1: 125.2 ran at 2 ohms, 100.4 ran at 2 ohms per channel unbridged Example 2: 125.2 ran at 2 ohms, 100.4 ran at 4 ohms per channel unbridged/bridged Thanks man

It will work just wont sound as good or be as loud, that really would be a waste of 2-18''s(tell your friend to be smart and not choke the subs and give them the room they need). Why not get 2-15'' SSD's or 1-18" Q or Bl sub? You beat me to it