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jcarter1885

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Posts posted by jcarter1885


  1. 20 hours ago, bigrank916 said:

    What kind of alternator did you go with in that VW? I think your car would have the group 47 battery? Mine is the 48 so I've got a few more electronics I think as well as being a midsize SUV. Where did you use the 2/0 cable at? 2 runs of pos to the rear from the batt or alt?

    Yeah I fucking wish I could just yank that head unit out. I was planning on using the old Pioneer DEH 80PRS but that plan went up in smoke quick. Its fitting that I left off with probs in that Merc and getting new ones for the Audi.

    I'm half tempted to drive it by the shop of Steve Meade Designs here in Sac and ask them what they would do lol. I met Steve before but I highly doubt he would remember me. I know exactly where the shop is and it looks like he has a walk in storefront of some kind. Maybe when I get the electrical done I might cruise by :neil:

    Yeah my factory battery was a group 43 but I seen a dude fit a 48, so I went that route. It was snug but it fit like a glove. The only company I found at the time who would make an H/O alternator was Brand X and mine is a 270. Had it installed in Summer of 22 and no issues yet, he had bigger sizes but this size was the most reliable and dependable. 

     

    I have 2/0 welding cable all throughout the ride. 2 power runs from front battery to rear batteries. Amps grounded to batteries, rear batteries grounded in spare tire well. One positive and negative run from front battery to alternator. And 4 grounds under the hood too. I been meaning that call Brand X and see if grounds from front battery to rear battery or from alternator to rear battery would make any differences.


  2. On 3/16/2024 at 8:15 AM, Chapter2 said:

    The link 8 will work also, really just depends on your needs, typically you jump inputs for your amps, I’d personally run one 4 channel for all 8 highs and mids with passive crossovers (assuming they are all 4 ohm,) but that’s just me, less equipment the better ,again just how I would, I originally picked up the Wavtech for a Fiat I’m building and tbh price/features and spec was the biggest reason for the purchase,, worked flawless and didn’t have to grab 3 diffrent pieces.. 

    as far as the isolator,, do you have to use one? Nah… but with that car(or any Audi for that matter) keeping the factory charging system and your aftermarket charging system separate is just a safe call,, the car regulates voltage output post factory battery, so the less you mess with its resting voltage the less likely your going to run into issues… rofl, if you thought the Mercedes was a fickle pos wait till you start playing with Audis electrical 

     yeah, I tell anyone that get into Audi or and VW product the first purchase should be a Vag-com or what ever it’s called now, lol it’s saved me thousands of dollars in Repairs and trouble shooting.. and being able to adapt and reprogram with it is just awesome.. you can unlock a ton features in your car with it as well 

    I don't have an isolator in my VW and have no problems with voltage or anything to that affect. Granted I have an aftermarket alternator, but stock wiring still intact. When I had the factory alternator and battery in, it did limit my voltage. Just by doing the big 3 and upgrading my front battery to an Odyssey Group 48 AGM I gained .5volts. I went from a voltage at idle with lights on and A/C from 13.8v to 14.3v. Once I did the h/o alternator, I didn't have any other voltage issues. Now at times during the winter I can see voltage as high as 15.3 and 14.5-8v during the summer and I'm in Texas.

     

     

    OP sucks you can't take your factory radio out because the one in my car sucked, using Bluetooth it would just go silent for like two seconds every 30 minutes or so give or take. Everyone said it's just something with the radios they use when using the Bluetooth setting. I had soany issues with the factory radio and NAV-TV unit that it made me rip out my radio and replace it with a Sony head unit, I haven't had any issues since. Yes codes are crazy, I had to take it to a shop to get all that stuff figured out since my car was new and no information was out about it at the time.


  3. 1 hour ago, bigrank916 said:

    Man you right those batts are tiny! Not very much more than the batts I was looking at except for the Titan. Considering my alt is 370 amp, that D4S LTO batt would be in the 5k watt range. I would only need one of those but 2 would make it nice for future upgrades. The 2 pack combo, add buss bars with charger looks perfect. I'm sold lol. I have a bnib 500 amp isolator from NVX that is old as well. Looks like it will stay in the box.

    That's the route I went and love mine, took the weight out of my trunk by removing the group 31 battery, and my voltage doesn't drop as much plus it looks cleaner than having that huge battery back there.


  4. I would do with a XS Power Titan battery for the rear, lithium is the way to go and much lighter as well. Honestly you may not need to upgrade the front battery if you get an LTO battery, they work with normal batteries and don't need an isolator. Just a thought 


  5. These cars are finicky, I first used a NAV-TV (over a $1000) unit to get signal from the source and it sucked. I ended up ripping the head unit out, replacing it with a DSP to create my own source unit. I haven't had any issues since, hopefully you have more luck then me with the factory head unit. I had to take it to a shop just to get all of that installed since it had so many codes, the factory hu had issues with the NAV-TV (some people have no issues with these units and others have issues I dealt with and more).


  6. 12 hours ago, bigrank916 said:

    Man I've been looking for a DSP but both versions are sold out everywhere. What happened to yours? This infotainment stuff is pretty new to me.

    I personally would stay away from Audio Control, hence why I got rid of mine even though I did love the DSP. Audio Control sold it's company and the units are out of stock as of now. They have been having hella issues with software especially when you download there latest software update, which I didnt do since the 3 years I owned it. People have units with bugs and glitches, which I never experienced with mine. Audio Control was one of my all time favorite companies since back in the day when I had my Epic-160.

    I had more issues with my Dayton DSP when I first got into the processing game which is what made me go to Audio Control DM608. I also talked to a reputable shop down here and they say Audio Control does something with the low end that they didn't like and even tried to sell me a Jl twk88 when I was calling about a Helix DSP, which the JL is cheaper than both so he wasn't just trying to sell me a product and actually saved me money by not going the Helix route since I'll never own a center channel speaker setup.

     

    Sorry for the long post, just my experience with their DSPs.


  7. I received my new RCA's for my amplifiers, they are 2 channel and 3 ft each. I have 3, one leaving each output of my DSP and going to their respective amplifiers. I don't know why it uploads the picture upside like that, I tried to fix it.

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  8. Everything is installed and playing, I have some work to do on the wires in the back and I also need to change the crossovers on the new DC Audio mids. I ran out of time since it dropped from 61 degrees to 20 degrees in 2 hours yesterday. See how the 90 degree 2/0 terminals came in handy due to my space constraints. 

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  9. Battery box/distribution block board was mounted to vehicle and the distribution block was installed. I need to find a way to bend some 2/0 terminals so I can finish up wiring the other side of this block.

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