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What type of vehicle is all this going in??

I would not get the Alpine 9886 if you are not buying the imprint kit with it. The 9886 needs the imprint kit to use any of the EQing process. For the extra couple of bucks i would get the the Alpine 9887. The 9887 does Not need the imprint kit to use its eqs. Also where are you going to buy your equipment?? Also what is your budget??

If you are looking for more bass i would jus port the kickers.

Question to the part in red. Are the speakers disconnected when you run the setup non strapped?? Also do you have pin connectors on the end of the speaker wire?? Cause my ESX 60.4 did a similar sound and all it was was the set screw was destorying the wire. So i added pin connectors and the sound vanished.

I see you say to have the tuning at 30 - 35 Hz. Would you recommend tuning it to 28 hz or is 30 better??

Check to see if the power light is on on the amplifier?? If so check all wire connections. ie power, ground on everything

Looks good but again you are buying extras you might not even use. But for the research i have been doing its hard get what you want for under 450 1. Here you can get that same headunit for 459.99 Woofers 2. The only other one that looks good is either the pioneer premier DEH-P980BT or pioneer DEH-P9800BT the difference between the two is one carries the premier name. Specs are the same. With this one you need to add the ipod controller for another $60. Which puts you right back at 459.98 3. So if it was me i would get the pioneer cause of the name, but if you intend to use the other features on the Jvc then go with that one.

This headunit would work great for you its has a 24 bit dac, comes ready for ipod and bluetooth. Sonic electronix As for the box i ment 10 cubes as the external dimensions and i thought the port would be in the box and yes it will go form 10 external to around 6 internal if you put the port in the box. And as for the pins it is totally worth a shot.

When you start to build the box I would start with a 10ft^3 box and as all the displacements are taking into account you would be near/around the 6ft^3. Displacements are things that take up area inside the box ie the port, the sub, and all bracing. As for the rubber tabs i would taking with all the vibrations they might fall out but i just guessing.

Box size is up to the user preference but i believe the rule of thumb is use the bigger box for when using less than rms and use the smaller box when running rms and higher. port size for a comp setup is bigger and the daily is smaller. It takes a whle to fine where the car peaks cause you would have to try different tuning freq. Here is a member who did the same thing. Phi's build log

The SAZ 3000d is a discontinued so you are only going to find that one used from somebody. or choose either the AQ 2200d or the sundown SAZ 2000D MDF ( medium density fiberboard) this is the wood you use to bulid the subwoofer box. Extras like little things as RCAs, ring terminals for the power and ground, inline fuse blocks, fuses, disconnects for the speakers, screws, etc

ok your vehicle has a 120amp alt so if you were to get the btl and have it fully powered you are going to need a alt. Also if u can measure your trunk or if you want to have space back there to store stuff then give the measurements of what you like the box to be?? I wanna make sure the sub will not be choked. So your parts list should look somewhat like this Sub -- 18 BTL -- ~ $414 before shipping and extras Amp -- Front stage -- amp -- Headunit -- Amp wiring -- Big 3 wiring -- sound deadening -- MDF -- Alt -- later 2 batteries -- Speaker wiring -- Extras -- should equal $3000

Your best bet is to build a new box, RE recommends an optimal tuning of 1.5ft^3 @35hz hope this helps

Correct. I would like to compete eventually. But I dont want a system that just "burps". I want to also use this car for a daily driver and street beater.Whats a TL? A tl(termlab) is the meter that is used to get your numbers What vehicle are you planning on using??

so you are looking for SPL application, cause you say you want to compete so you a looking at putting up numbers on a TL right??

Here try this link to view the manual. Another greta manual from zed. http://www.diymobile...y-zedmanual.pdf

i dont have a single piece of equipment yet...not even wire What is your budget for your entire system??

Ok lets take a step back here. What equipment do you physically have/all ready ordered?? Cause to me if you are getting/have the SAX 50.4 I wouldn't worry about a headunit that has active crossovers cause that amp has them on it. That gives you the ablity down the road to try active if you would like. I have a kenwood KDC x692 and it does what i need it to do. It has a 24 dac, a 3 band parametric eq, cable for ipod, all you would need to buy would be the bluetooth adapter.

I thought i give u guys a heads up. I talked to Mantz and customs is holding the shipment and he hopes to start building the amplifiers next week.

Yes componets come with a mid, tweet, and crossover. So if you go with that headunit and use componets you wouldn't use the deck to its fullest potential and like ///M5 said it will be a waste of money. Have you ever used an eq?? If so which one??

What I wont use? I haven't really said anything about what I wont use. I am all for unknown companies when it comes to anything cause I believe in helping them start out. Yes it may turn out to be junk but I understand that fully. I am just looking for a head unit. And I don't know what speakers I want yet for my front end so its hard to say what amp I am going to get. I am 90% sure I will be amplifying my front end though. Have you looked at speakers for the front?? If so are you looking at componets??

Crutchfield is overpriced on their equipment. You can get that headunit over at Sonic Electronixs for 399.99 plus shipping. Now with that price their are 2 other great active headunits, Either the pioneer 800Prs or the Alpine 9887. The Eclipse is a dead head (a headunit without an amplifier built in) meaning you have to have amps for all the speakers

Yes you will have to have a bigger fuse when you run it either in 2ohm stereo or 4 ohm mono. Mantz technology is just amazing. The Vulcan needs a 15A fuse in 4ohm stereo or 8ohm mono then it jumps a little bit when running a 2ohm stereo or 4ohm mono. In this state the amp will need a 25A fuse Heres a link to the manual of the entire Series VIII Amps

50.4 is only 200 shipped vs the 125.2 at 240 plus shipping Here is the link Closeout of 50.4

What happened when u did this??? I had a similar problem jus to find out the the speaker wire was being destroyed by the set screw in the terminal. So i went and bought flat straight pins and the sound dissappered. it stopped making the noise i left the remote turn on connected to the amp and hu so it can turn on with that and it didnt make any noise. and i took the amp off of where i had it mounted so i can diagnose it easier ( it's in the jump seat aera) once i put it back up i will have pics of it. and i did clean up all my grounds and everything. and all my freinds have stock radios so i cant just swap them out. plus i wont be paying for the h u it will be for xmas. and i got all the noises to stop. no turn off pop and no alt whine with the way i have it wired. so my rear output is shot. Keep the amp where you had it when you did the mp3 and rehook up the hu and see if the noise stops. tired it already no difference. oncei connect the hu it gets bad turn of pop and bad alt whine. and i even tried using coupler with the mp3 playe to c if it is the rca's and i get no noise so it has to be the hu. basically it has to be the hu becouse once it gets introduced back into it i get the noises . but after just bypassing the rear/high rca (the bad ones) i do notice i have a faint turning off pop noise but not as bad as it was before and no alt whine at all. i am curious though. what if i used the speaker outlets and use a loc to have active thru the hu instead of the sax100.4? This is what i would do for now till you are able to get a new headunit.... Since the SAX-100.4 has active crossovers on it, take the rcas from the working outputs of the headunit and get two sets of y cables so you can use all channels of the amplifiers. But here is the catch you would have to set the headunit xovers the through and use the xover on the amp to run the speakers active.