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You are welcome. ZED also tells you how to calculate the fuse rating as well I think it is page 13.... Example: A 100 x 4 at 4 ohms amplifier. We will assume that we will be playing it so musical peaks reach 100w/ch. Ok so 100 x 4 = 400. Divide by .03 = 1333 divide by 5 = 266 and divide this by 12 = 22 amps. Use a 25 or 30 amps fuse. I have used this with my esx amps and have not blown a fuse yet.

Zed lists the size fuse you need for the given ohm load in his manual for the new amplifiers... Heres the draconia part from the manual.... Fuse rating for 4 ohm load - - - 25A-30A depending on usage Fuse rating for 2 ohm load **** - - - 30A-50A depending on usage **** under normal operating conditions the fuse rating for 4ohm loads will suffice for 2 ohm loads. If the amplifer is driven for long periods of time into 2 ohm loads the fuse rating may be increased as shown. DO NOT OVER FUSE ANY AMPLIFER Also here is the link to the new manual... 2011 ZED Manual Hope This helps

Did you guys happen to see what atomic said to him when he initially contacted them? They basically told him to STFU because he was lucky to own such a great amp. After that I wouldn't own one of their products if you gave it to me....Well maybe then.

It's confirmed as well as some other goodies. http://www.zedaudiocorp.com/News/news.html

Those ESX's are SICK. If the US Acoustics or the Planet Audio ever go up for sale, please PM me. Will Do Denim you will be first on the List!!

Here is some of the old school Amps I have collected..... Click on the pics to enlarge them. ESX 475.1 "] Group shots of ESX 60.4, ESX 175.2, ESX 120.4, ESX 275.2 "] Planet Audio HVT 754 "] Dad's USAcoustics 2150, 2100, and 4050 "] "] Also my old school Headunit. DRZ9255

When entering the parameters in winisd you can't enter all the info, you have to let winisd enter some of the parameters itself. For example ... You put in the QES and the QMS, then keep hitting tab to the program doesn't add in anymore parameters. Do not adjust the parameters that the program inserts (will be in blue) or when you go to save it, it won't except it. Then jus keep adding the info in this manner.

Driver Displacement is in the manual listed under the VD in the thiele small parameters. I believe it was listed at .045

no they are not.

When i first seen the pics of the subs i said to myself "Man these look a lot like Dayton HO." Then i went and brought up there website and look at the other pics of the subs and did a side by side comparison on the specs. I must Say that it looks like my assumption is correct.. If they are truely Dayton HO's then they are great subs. Here is a side by side view... Daber Specs // Dayton Ho Specs: (Based on 15's) Re: 3.3 // 3.3 Le: 1.81 // 1.83 Fs; 23 // 24 Qms: 4.46 // 4.48 Qes: .41 // .42 Qts: .38 // .39 Mms: (g) 381 // 380.6 Cms (mm/n) .11 // .11 Sd: (cm2) 830 // 829.6 Vd: (L) 996 // 995.5 Bl: 21.5 // 21.52 Vas: 109 // 109.7 Vc Diameter: 2.5 in // 2.5 in SPL: 90 // 90 @ 2.83V/1m PE: 800w // 800w Daber (Pics from SSA) Dayton (pic from Chad at DIY and Parts express)

x2, some of the products in there store qualify for free shipping. Just look at the list next to the picture and it tells you right about voice coil options and under availability. Can't believe I didn't see that. Thanks

My father is considering this driver. I want to know if you guys think it fits the bill for him.His system consists of the following. HU- Kenwood....Soon to be replaced by an Alpine 9887 Amps- Front stage- US acoustics Usa 2100 running a pair of Alpine SPX-17REF in well sealed and dampened doors. Sub amp - Us acoustics Usa-2150 The sub amp does 500 watts at 4 ohms. I'm sure it's a little underrated. How much not sure. My guess would be 550. He listens to almost every type of music except hard core rap.....He can't stand it. BTW....The vehichle is an 04 Explorer. Will the SA-12 be what he needs? Does he have enough power to get good sound from it? He is also stuck between a ported box or sealed. Is there another driver that he should consider? Thanks in advance.

Don't know if this is the place to ask but why can't I estimate shipping for that driver in the store?

Thank you.

The Us acoustics amp he has is only 4 ohm stable bridged. The hu sounds pretty good but has very limited processing.....Going to replace it soon but very much worth the price.

Emailed Mantz....He did not make this amp.

Hi guys Im looking to get a reasonable priced turntable for my home theatre that has good sound quality?? I was wondering if there is a difference between the turntables that were released back in the day and the ones that are used by dj's today??

ok my amplifier has no internal fusing and is around 2000 watts (i dont know how accurate hifonics amp ratings are) so do i need an 2nd fuse near the amp?? I see in your sig that you only have one amp. If that is true you'll will only need 1 fuse and that would be placed near the battery. Now the fuse you put in the holder would be rated for what the amp needs to be protected, and not the wire. But if you have two amps this is a different story. Wrong. The fuse right next to the battery protects the wire, not the amp. Thats why it is right after the battery and not right before the amp. The fuse before the amp, protects the amp. KU40 just explained this. Well i can prove you wrong here is a piece of info right from the new zed manuals... Last is the +12volt connection. Using #8 (#4 max)or larger, strip the wire to 19mm (0.75”) and insert in to the hole marked BATT (+) on the power connector. Run the cable (away from all audio cables) to the location of the vehicle’s battery. At the battery location install the a fuse holder no further away from the battery (+) terminal than 300mm (12”). Insert this end of the +12volt power cable into the fuse holder. Making sure that the fuse is removed, connect the other end of the fuse holder to the battery’s (+) terminal using appropriate high quality battery connectors. Insert the supplied fuse. DO NOT OVERFUSE as this can be a fire hazard. NO where in that paragraph does he say anything about a fuse near the amplifier, and most his amplifiers do have fuses on them any way. The Fuse near the battery would be below the rating of the wire any way. So in fact it would protect the wire. Also i read some where also that zed dislikes distribution blocks as well. He would rather have you run seperate power wire for every amplifier. If you want i can find this aswell. If you are running two amplifers like is said in my post before,then this way won't work unless u run a new power wire. It doesnt say anything about a fuse near the amp in that paragraph because you just answered it yourself. If the amp already has an internal fuse then you dont need it. Its that simple. And who gives a shit about d-blocks? If you are going down in wire size from a d-block, you should use a smaller fuse. That is very simple as well. You proved nothing. I forgot to type the NOT in one of the setences. Here is the corrected sentence. Most his amplifiers do NOT have fuses on them anyway. Which then would prove my point. Correct if you use a d block you would have a smaller fuse. Now the fuse you would put in the d block would be the fuse that would protect the amp you are using, then the fuse under the hood would be the sum of the two fuses in the d block. But going back to the original post he never said anything about a d block, also in his sig I only see that he has one amp and thats where i based my interpetation off of.

ok my amplifier has no internal fusing and is around 2000 watts (i dont know how accurate hifonics amp ratings are) so do i need an 2nd fuse near the amp?? I see in your sig that you only have one amp. If that is true you'll will only need 1 fuse and that would be placed near the battery. Now the fuse you put in the holder would be rated for what the amp needs to be protected, and not the wire. But if you have two amps this is a different story. Wrong. The fuse right next to the battery protects the wire, not the amp. Thats why it is right after the battery and not right before the amp. The fuse before the amp, protects the amp. KU40 just explained this. Well i can prove you wrong here is a piece of info right from the new zed manuals... Last is the +12volt connection. Using #8 (#4 max)or larger, strip the wire to 19mm (0.75”) and insert in to the hole marked BATT (+) on the power connector. Run the cable (away from all audio cables) to the location of the vehicle’s battery. At the battery location install the a fuse holder no further away from the battery (+) terminal than 300mm (12”). Insert this end of the +12volt power cable into the fuse holder. Making sure that the fuse is removed, connect the other end of the fuse holder to the battery’s (+) terminal using appropriate high quality battery connectors. Insert the supplied fuse. DO NOT OVERFUSE as this can be a fire hazard. NO where in that paragraph does he say anything about a fuse near the amplifier, and most his amplifiers do have fuses on them any way. The Fuse near the battery would be below the rating of the wire any way. So in fact it would protect the wire. Also i read some where also that zed dislikes distribution blocks as well. He would rather have you run seperate power wire for every amplifier. If you want i can find this aswell. If you are running two amplifers like is said in my post before,then this way won't work unless u run a new power wire.

ok my amplifier has no internal fusing and is around 2000 watts (i dont know how accurate hifonics amp ratings are) so do i need an 2nd fuse near the amp?? I see in your sig that you only have one amp. If that is true you'll will only need 1 fuse and that would be placed near the battery. Now the fuse you put in the holder would be rated for what the amp needs to be protected, and not the wire. But if you have two amps this is a different story.

Never done this before. It's as simple as hooking the batter up to the terminals? What size battery, and do I do both voice coils together or separately? A 9volt battery is good to use. All you have to do is disconnect the speaker wire from the amp and have the wire touch the terminals of the 9 volt. You will hear a pop and with the pop the sub will move either in or out depending on pos and neg. Make sure you watch both subs, Both of them should move the same way.

Are you using the bass knob with the audioque?

Thanks denim but it not quite the entire line. The others im missing yet is the 75.2, 120.2, 275.1, and the 475.1 but these are by far the most rare. Still on the look out though. I do understand collecting things, but why are you collecting (are you gonna do some all ESX builds in the future or are you just gonna keep them so they can collect dust). Well I am using them in my install right now and they are jus great amps. But I do want to start a collection at the same time.

Since the amp has a button called true mono, i wouldn't bridged the amplifier. What this button does is turn the entire amplifier into a mono block amplifier. Now to does this all you have to do is wire your sub to 4 ohm and on the amplifier press down the true mono button. (press the button before you turn on the vehicle, if you don't you will not be able to push the button while the vehicleis running.) When you wire the sub to the amp you only put the wires in the left channel. The right channel should have no wires in it. Also you would only need to have 1 rca end plug into the left channel, but it won't hurt to have both rcas connected though. Which would be better cause then you won't have an rca end hanging there that could cause interfence. In this mode the amp would put out 240watts. PS. If you ever want to sell it let me know cause i love these esx amplifiers. ok heres another question,,,the amp does 240 watts bridged at 4 ohms and 230 watts bridged/true mono at 1 ohm...............so i would have to wire my sub for 1 ohm for true mono,,,or just leave it at 4ohm and just select the bridged button on the amp? Im sorry i quickly read my book before i posted and i messed up about the 4ohm load. If you use the 4ohm load you select the sync bridging button, and if you want to use a 1ohm load then you use the true mono button. But using the 4ohm load you will have less stress on the amplifier.

Since the amp has a button called true mono, i wouldn't bridged the amplifier. What this button does is turn the entire amplifier into a mono block amplifier. Now to does this all you have to do is wire your sub to 4 ohm and on the amplifier press down the true mono button. (press the button before you turn on the vehicle, if you don't you will not be able to push the button while the vehicleis running.) When you wire the sub to the amp you only put the wires in the left channel. The right channel should have no wires in it. Also you would only need to have 1 rca end plug into the left channel, but it won't hurt to have both rcas connected though. Which would be better cause then you won't have an rca end hanging there that could cause interfence. In this mode the amp would put out 240watts. PS. If you ever want to sell it let me know cause i love these esx amplifiers.