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noidle22

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About noidle22

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 03/20/1992

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    noidle22@hotmail.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Australia
  • Interests
    Car/home audio design, RC models, mountain biking, music, photography, electronics, first-aid
  1. the fuse isn't blown. the fuse in a dmm mainly comes into play when you are testing current, the voltage stage of a dmm isn't fused like the current stage. plus, the fuse is rated at 1000V at 315mA and i wasn't testing current. my dmm can read up to 750V ac and i first tested it on the 200V scale, and i doubt even the 200.4 could output over 200V with the gain set near half. the leads are ok as well, they have never been treated roughly, i tested them and they're both in good shape. i'm charging up a fresh 9V battery to try in it cos i don't have any other 9V batteries currently so i'll see if that helps. i'll try a cheap dmm i have and see how it goes as well, idk what condition it's in though but i think it works.
  2. Well i tried measuring the outputs when they're connected to and playing through my speakers and it does measure, but only up to like 4 volts peak, no matter where i set the gain. I probe inside the actual speaker terminal when testing so there should be no conductivity issues. I figure it's something up with my meter, i'll put a fresh battery in it and see if that helps. Soz for not quoting replies but i'm on my phone and it'd take ages.
  3. yea the amp's fine, i had it running minutes before i tried setting them, was running on about half on each gain level, i just wanted to fine tune them cos i had the time. i'm an electronics technician so i understand how it all works, there wasn't a chance of an error there cos i made double and triple sure everything was as it should be. and as i said, i've set many gains on many amps with this meter without a problem, it's just this amp that's being weird. if it helps i can make a short video showing what's happening.
  4. noidle22

    SSA Member Survey

    1. How old are you? - 19 2. When did you get into car audio? - about 2.5 years ago 3. How did you first get into car audio? - dont really remember, friend had a small system and i just built my interest from there i think 4. Whats your favorite color - orange 5. Male or female? - male 6. Your first Car? - 1995 hyundai accent 8. How did you find out about this site? - was browsing for audio related gear that wasn't generic junk that we usually get in australia 9. What was your first system? - mtx 12", dodgy pioneer 6x9"s, fusion splits, audioline amp 11. Were do you live? - Bathurst, Australia 12. Whats you favorite car audio brand? - don't have one, pretty much any brand from this site and America 15. Who is our hero in the car audio industry? - don't have one 16. Whats your dream system? - unsure, leaning towards 4 21" DP's walled in a small hatchback. 17. Whats your dream car? - 1989 S13 Silvia or 1978 euro spec Nissan 260Z 18. Whats the fastest car you have driven/ridden in? - 500hp 180SX 19. Were do you buy most of your car audio products? - online 20. What is your job? - electronics technician 21. Whats your favorite saying? - dont have one 24. Whats your favorite brand of cars? - Nissan 25. What do you like better, cars, vans, trucks, or suv's? - cars 29. Whats is the most recent thing you have purchased? - 2 Deka Intimidator 8A27M's, that's the most important recent purchase 31. Who do you think is the most knowledgeable person on SSA? - dunno, haven't been here enough 32. What is your personal best on the TL? and with what equipment? - never tested on one 33. SQ or SPL? why? hard to say, sometimes i want SPL, sometimes i want SQ, i wouldnt be able to say either way
  5. g'day, i was trying to tune my gains the other day on my sax 200.4 with a test cd and multimeter i've used with several other cars and amplifiers. for some reason, the multimeter wont pick up any signal from any of the speaker outputs at all. i can turn the knob from 0.2v to 6v and not get any change off 0V, on any channel and any output. i'm using exactly the same method as i do with other cars and stereos and it's worked fine, but not with this amp. is there some trick to getting the sax 200.4 to measure through a multimeter or something? the meter i'm using is an Amprobe 5XP-A and it has plenty of battery left in it. thanks.
  6. hi, i just finished installing the sax 200.4, everything was going well, i was just tuning up some of my bass levels and stuff when suddenly my front speakers just died and the subs kept playing. it wasn't loud enough to warrant any kind of speaker failure and the amp wasn't going into protect at all. my setup is two 4 ohm subs wired to 2 ohms running off channels 3 and 4 bridged and 2 pairs of components wired to 2 ohms each pair running off channels 1 and 2. my gains weren't cranked up at all, it was all sounding healthy, and then the front 2 channels just died. i turned it off and let it sit for a while, disconnected the battery, checked my wiring, nothing helped. does anyone have any idea what's caused this to happen?
  7. you'll never really find an lcd or plasma that can respond as well as a crt. samsung's new line of led lcd tv's and their 53" flat plasma are good in terms of refresh rate, quality and response. problem with samsung is that their customer service is terrible and the build quality in comparison to other big name brands is lacking. sony's new 3D lcd tv's are good, perhaps not as good picture quality and response as the samsungs but the build quality, looks and customer service is excellent, i'd suggest a sony. panasonic still mosey along with their big plasmas, as you've owned one you know what they're like, they haven't changed much really, just look a bit nicer. it'll last you a fair while and is a good all rounder sort of tv. btw i'm a electronics technician so i deal with tv's all the time so these aren't just the random ramblings of info i nicked off the net
  8. noidle22

    hardbody door panels on a budget

    nice, these look promising, fair bit of weight in the end to stick to the doors sure does take a lot of work to get them paint worthy, i'm currently working on some door pods and a-pillar pods which i'm going to be painting, so much effort :x
  9. i see. i developed another plan last night, i will still run the 4 sets on each channel, but 2 sets will be going in the back doors. in terms of the trial and error method, i'm not willing to risk that as it costs me $200 to ship the amp to Australia, so that's around $500 for 1 amp, that also rules out the option of buying a second amp. i'm not rolling in money right now, i just try to save as much as i can for life things and the car. @95Honda, i've been running 2 amplifiers for about 6 months on 2 and 1.33 ohms daily, gains aren't cranked and they've never shut off no matter how hard i've pushed them, is this merely my luck at not having dodgy amps? because they're fairly no-name brands off ebay, one cost me $50 and the other was $150. in terms of heat output at high volumes, it's a little more than usual but nothing that causes any protection to come into play. but owing to the fact that i'd rather not risk an amp that's cost me $500 i'll just be safe rather than sorry. thanks guys
  10. hi, i was wondering if a sax 100.4 could withstand 1.33 ohms or 2 ohms in bridged stereo mode. my plan was to initially run 4 sets of components off each channel, but due to space limitations that i've decided i can't be bothered worrying about and the fact that the speakers will be underpowered i've decided to run 3 sets. if 1.33 will kill it, will 2 ohms be ok? the manual says to use 4 ohms in bridged stereo mode but my current amplifiers are cheapies off ebay which are running 2 ohms in bridged stereo and haven't had any problems. thanks
  11. Hi, i'm in the market for a HO alt for my Hyundai Excel Australian spec, which has proved difficult, to say the least. I was opting for around 220-250A, running to a stock calcium battery, which doesn't do too bad actually, and 2 Stinger SPV70's, which'll be used to push a saz-3500D, (unsure of the sub/s atm) and a sax 100.4 (hopefully), for a daily driver, @ 1 ohm (the 3500D ), with the possibility of taking it to some comps. I'm pretty sure my stock 70 amp alternator wont keep pace with those loads. My wanderings through this sub-forum led me to two brands in particular, after investigating most of them. These two were DC Power and Mechman. At this point you may be asking, "Why don't you just get a HO alt from Australia instead of getting one from here which will induce a hella lot of shipping?" My answer to that is, Australia isn't that big on high end car audio, and finding online stores that were dedicated to HO alt's were pretty much non existant. I'm willing to pay shipping so i can have good quality equipment in my car, that's the short of it. I've emailed both DC Power and Mechman, and to be honest, i was expecting great results from DC Power because of what i've read, but not so much from Mechman. But as things have progressed, it's turned around. It's been weeks now, and after several follow-up emails, DC Power still haven't gotten back to me, whereas Mechman had an email sent within a day, quoting the price and some more info. After much conversing with Mechman, it's boiled down to a 220A alt, 135A at an 800rpm idle, reaching 220A rated output by 1.8k rpm, in a custom large case to fit my Aussie spec Excel. Total cost, $460 for the alt, $110 for shipping. As for the shipping, i'm quite happy with that. As for the $460 for a 220A alt, i'm not so sure. Would i be able to get some ideas flowing about that price for the output i'm getting? And what kind of prices do the other brands offer for a similar rated alt? I realise there's many topics already discussing alternators, but because i'm in Australia, it isn't really as simple as ordering an alt and getting it in a few days, if there's some problems it's a relatively simple return to the company etc. I want to be sure of what i'm paying for, and if i noobed it up by reasking a question, i'm sorry. Also, on a side note, are there any other online stores other than ssa's store and db-r.com that offer sundown amps and incriminator, FI, SSA etc. subs? Thanks heaps.
  12. Wecome to the Forum!

  13. JBL have been making some pretty decent stuff for a long time, so have Pioneer. They're two close brands to choose from, in the end i'd say it comes down to the price and specs and the relationship between the two. I don't have much experience with lots of brands, i've only used fusion, pioneer, rampage (pieces of crap) and mtx in terms of car audio, but my Pioneer head unit is awesome, and i have a pair of old TS-A6995's 3 way 6x9's and they still perform exceedingly well for their age. So you'd have my vote if you were to buy the Pioneer components, but it'd be best to look at some other brands and post them up here for some of the more experienced guys to look at, cos my experience bank is limited :x
  14. try and steer clear of fusion imo, they are made for looks, not performance. i have a set of 5.25" splits in my car at the moment, they needed resoldering of the spade connectors and resoldering of the terminal itself because it was so weak. the quality of materials used are low and lifespan isn't too great. i only got them cos they were on sale for $30, reduced from $180. probably try to get something made in america or europe i reckon, ebay has some decent deals, you just have to search a bit. i'm also looking into getting this amplifier whcih is looking pretty good for a mere $98. http://tinyurl.com/2aottoe. don't expect 2000 watts from it, i'd doubt even 1000, seeing as it's only got a single 40 amp fuse :/ but for running some mids or splits up front off two channels, then bridging the two rear outputs for a sub, it shouldn't do too bad. that ebay seller is also selling some pretty cheap speaker sets, might want to have a look around in there.
  15. My Pioneer DEH 5250SD has a sub output on the rear left channel which can be turned on or off, doesn't include a SSF though. LP cutoffs on the sub output are 60 80 100 and 125 Hz, it also includes a 5 channel custom EQ and a HP filter but it isn't adjustable. i think that's about as much tuning that you're going to get from a HU, but maybe there's something out there with a SSF.
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