altoncustomtech

you'd be surprised how far people drive them making noises like that, BUT i'm glad to hear you aren't..... what u need is a good friend who's a fair mechanic to look at it.... too bad ur up near INDY, if you was closer I'd come take a look at it for ya.....

im gona try getin by right now if its the ball joints. im gona get the cheaper ones. theyre like 30 a piece at autozone. so you still dont know for sure what it is?? I wouldn't buy any parts until I was sure.... usually you check the wheel bearing by grabbing at 6 and 12 and trying to rock the wheel that way, not 3 and 9..... at 3 and 9 any play you feel could be the wheel bearing, but just as easy as it could be a bad tie rod, it won't tell you whether its the ball joint or not though....... this is the way to test these ball joints.... you should be sure or have an actual mechanic look at it before spending money on parts.....

Thats a great review man... I've been looking at those babies for some time now... on the tweeter problems, might try this little trick and see if it helps.... Thanks for the great review! EASY Tweeter Savers

I don't see a problem making your own as long as you make sure it can't short to any grounds...... anyways...... NO you don't have to step down to 8 from 4 just because ur splitting off.... in fact i'd recommend keeping the 4awg throughout.... Now the 150 is good, the fuse is for protecting the wire being used, not what it's powering..... use 150 and if you begin blowing it you'll know you need to up the wire to 1/0.......

Two that I care about.... CA.com was my first, still contribute there on a regular basis..... I found SSA thanks to CA and have truly enjoyed this site, though I rarely get to answer questions since there's so many knowledgable people here that usually get to them before I do with the same or better answers, I still like it here alot! I've joined a few others caraudioforum, roe, *** (only to read a LOLZ link) but this and CA are my main goto's....

Not necessarily.... When the wheel bearing finally went out on my Jimmy there was over 2" of play that I could move the wheel on.... the worst I've ever seen a wheel bearing before.... I know for a fact it was the wheel bearing as : 1. I had an alignment done at a local tire dealer right after I purchased it and they said the machine could see play in the wheel. 2. They said that everything else in the front end was tight. 3. The auto dealer I bought the truck from replaced the wheel bearing and everything has been peachy ever since. and 4. I've replaced more than a half-dozen wheel bearings in my short experience and the noise and associated problems from worn out wheel bearings are nearly all the same..... That being said, how did you get the idea that "if you jack up the car and there's play in the tire then its the ball joint." anyways just out of idle curiosity??? for that matter a loose wheel could be something as silly as loose lug nuts, and believe me that happens more often than you'd think.... Sorry if I came across sounding like a bit of an ass but I'm looking forward to finding out what is wrong with it.....

i'd be real surprised if it was a ball joint.... usually once they get worn enuf to cause something to make noise they've done separated and you're super stranded...... saw it happen up front and personal to a crown vic at a drive through, the lower ball joint gave and the wishbone (A arm) fell with the car's weight on it onto the inside of the wheel, wouldn't budge an inch..... then when the woman's man showed up he gunned it to get it out of the way and it was quite a show, left big curly shavings of aluminum from the wheel behind it, took everything the car had to move................. I'd think if it was a ball joint that you most likely couldn't have been driving it at all... I'm still convinced it's the wheel bearings....

so what did you find out about your truck??

was the noise even louder when you turned? also it only makes the noise when im driving. if i sit in the driveway and turn the wheel its fine. yeah it always got louder when i turned and yes shot wheel bearings will only make noise when driving.... your questions make me quite sure it's the wheel bearings.... another tell tale that the wheel bearings are shot is the truck doesn't feel as steady as it did before, the steering feels loose, like driving an OLD Jeep.... lol

like dragging a ship anchor around under the truck.....

unfortunately the bearings are around $120 each at Advance, O'Reilly's, NAPA and AutoZone...... I priced 'em before the dealer fixed mine.... But yeah it sounds REAL bad when they go completely out....

sounds more like a bearing problem...... i guess it could be the differential but anytime i've heard a differential causing noise like that just changing the fluid wasn't going to do anything to fix it.... both of my van's front wheel bearings went out at almost the exact same time and my Jimmy had one bad when I bought it (the dealer graciously replaced it for me)...... so that would be my guess.... jack it up and grab the front wheel at the top and bottom and try rocking it in and out, if it moves enough to notice it ur wheel bearing is shot.....

These guys are right.... the only way to do any good is by filling the spaces and adding sound deadener of some kind be it dynamat, raaammat, SDS (Sound deadener showdown) or second skin.... The problem is any good solution will weigh the lid down.... you could always add those assist cylinders if it's a real problem...

unfortunately there's no way to get a 2 ohm load with 2 4 ohm DVC subwoofers.... all you can get is 16, 4, and 1 ohm loads.... sorry

Sound Quality is awfully subjective, biased so heavily by personal opinion from one person to the next, quality of installation, attention to detail, etc.... the best thing to do is start by giving your goals for the system, budget, etc.....

I'm expecting to have the same thing happen to me when I get my box done and my Q's installed.... They'll be a drastic change in sound to the Hifonics subs they're replacing and it will take awhile to get used to the difference...but VERY worth while!!!

Nah.... I'd say it just took your brain wahile to adjust..... it just takes while to get used to a drastic change.... The subwoofer is dumb.... it doesn't know anything and will play whatever frequency at whatever amplitude the amplifier gives it... while it is possible the suspension wasn't completely broken in when in the first box is plausible I'd still most likely say it just took you a little while to get used to the changes in the sound....

so... just out of idle curiosity..... is that an SSD motor?? diameter of slugs and bottom plate don't look big enough for the Q motor....

Parts express has an online calculator that will tell you what value of a capacitor you need for a given frequency.... try using that and buying a standard NON-POLARIZED cap, its the same thing as a bass blocker but even cheaper without the name on it.... plus you may be able to get the exact cutoff frequency you're wanting...

What kind of subwoofer is it? There's very few mainstream subs that don't give that information in either the model # or on the rear of the sub.... alot of the times the model # will have it included such as SWR-1222 (12" dual 2 ohm)..... otherwise subs like my Fi Q's have it written on the coil and it can be read through the vents above the magnet top plate....

Glad you decided to join, there's A LOT of great information available and plenty of knowledgable people around to help with the questions you'll have. Don't be affraid to ask either, just follow the forum rules and have a good time!

That's got to be one of the most original designs I've seen in awhile, but I like it.... For your first attempt it looks pretty decent actually, it wouldn't take much to finish it out to look as good as it seems to be working if ur getting 149 on a TL...... if that was on an AC it's still not shabby...... Everything is a trade off, best thing you can do is experiment and see what helps and what hurts but definitely you'll need to increase port or box size, the single 15 is a good idea as well, could help point you in the direction you need to go....

You could try this out..... It runs in Excel, fairly accurate, I built my box by it, 4.2 cu ft. after displacements, tuned to 32hz... initial tests show it works good, the box is sounding great and the cut sheets were right on.... Excel based Box Calculator

My guess is 896