mbarber25

I just ordered an XS Power XP750. I'm going to leave the stock one for now since it's pretty new. I'm willing to sacrifice the mids and highs to an extent but if they really get drowned out I'll definitely look into amping up the door speakers. Could I amp up the stock ones? Also, what do you think of this line out converter? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_94272_Rockford-Fosgate-Universal-Punch-EQ-RFPEQU.html Does it allow for a mids/highs amp down the road? Thanks

I used to frequent this site quite a bit as a young basshead, but adulthood changes things as most of you probably know. I still have passion and love for bass and I'm excited to finally be able to put a system back in my car as I'll be driving a lot for my new job. I know the basics of car audio to an extent, but still need some help with some elementary questions and decisions. The plan is to install my 12" SSA GCON powered by a Sundown SAZ-1000D that I ran in my Jeep a few years ago in my current car which is a 2014 Accord. What I do need is a line out converter, a secondary battery, and wiring for the big three upgrade. Here's what it looks like in the trunk as of now: Now here's what I need help on: 1. It seems like the stock electrical system is weak and wouldn't even handle 500 watts without dimming. My initial thought is to do the big three in 1/0 and go with an XS Power XP750 as my secondary. Should I even bother doing the big three? I'd rather not do too much in order to save money and this won't be my car for too too long, but I'd also rather not fry my alternator and have a system that dims everything. 2. When I ran a secondary battery in the past I had a 250 amp battery isolator to go with it. Is an isolator necessary? Or will using a fuse between the main battery and secondary battery, and then another fuse between the secondary battery and the amp do the job? I remember hearing issues about secondary batteries battling the main battery for a charge when the car was off. What's the best way to approach installing the secondary battery? 3. There's no way I'm doing an aftermarket head unit, so it seems like line out converters are the best bet in these scenarios. If I'm correct, where is the best place to tap in? Directly behind the stock head unit or off of the rear speakers? Do these things kill sound quality. Is there any tuning involved on the actual little piece of hardware? 4. I'm definitely going to have to do some sound deadening since this car already rattles. What brands are you guys using these days that are the best bang for your buck? I used Second Skin back in the day when they were fairly new so I was considering them again. It's good to be back. Thanks for any help and input peeps

Is this one a good option for just a sub & amp setup? Is tapping into the rear speakers good enough?

The headlights are stock as of now, but I do plan on doing HIDs in the future. I will be using 4 gauge wiring and will be running a Sundown 1000. I thought the general rule was to use a secondary batt for 1000w and up? Should I use one? Or it sounds like install the sub/amp and then see where my voltage is at?

I'm in a similar situation so I'm looking to gain some knowledge from whoever else chimes in. They seem to be the best alternative and range in quality and price. I noticed there are a lot for cheap, but have come across some more sophisticated ones. My understanding is that you tap into factory speaker wires with the converter in order to setup the rcas. I have my eyes on this one at the moment: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43567_AudioControl-LC2i-Ships-as-New-Black-Version.html It may be overkill for a simple sub/amp install so I'm interested to hear what other people have to say.

Yea I may do that, start with the basics and then go from there. At the same time, I'd still rather just do it from the beginning and do everything all at once. It may be overkill, but I'll have peace of mind.

Very unlikely that I add any mids or another amp in this vehicle. I'll probably start by just doing the basic like you mentioned, but my hunch is that the stock electrical system isn't going to cut it. You should see the stock battery, it's tiny.

Yup that's me, good memory dude. I never play with the car off, nor do I bump when I'm idling. I would even turn the bass down at stoplights to ease the strain on my electrical when I did have a setup in my car. I would be happy with not having to do an isolator. I'm on the fence about replacing the stock battery, but I didn't even really consider it until now. Thanks for your help.

Can anyone give me some ideas on fixing these cracks in my car's trunk floor? I'm aiming to get a good seal so it won't leak and for it too not crack again once I put my sub back in. Oh and I'm trying to spend as little money as possible so I could use some cheap ideas. I appreciate any input. Goes past the deadening to where my finger is.. And then there's this..

Thanks for all the suggestions. All fixed.

thanks they were definitely hard to catch. but yes the new box is in and is about 2-3 db's louder with maybe 10 minutes of tuning yes it is but no the box is tuned higher but it still hits most lows.

Sup guys here's my shit. Below is a list of what I got and what i'll be getting. Everything is coming together since i'm making a log about half way through the process.. So enjoy! Vehicle: 2003 Nissan Maxima SE 3.5L HU: Alpine CDA-9886 Subwoofer: Fi Car Audio BTL 15" Subwoofer Amp: Sundown Audio SAZ-2000D Door Speakers: Alpine Type-S Box: Ported - 3.9 Cubes at 33hz Batteries: Will be buying 1 or 2, make still undecided. Capacitor: Stinger 5 Farad Wiring: Stinger and Rockford Fosgate Misc.: Stinger Blue LED Voltage Meter I have mostly everything installed besides the sub, amp, cap, voltmeter, new 1/0 wires and a couple other things as of 7/7/09. The sub and amp should be here within the next 1 or 2 weeks as long as there's no problems. Will be putting in voltmeter and some wiring this week including big 3 so stay tuned. I know my setup isn't the craziest but I hope you guys still enjoy my log. Heres the whip:

this box is retired. it did me well but a i chance to buy a new and better box (used though) for cheap came up.

so after once again having the spider becoming unglued i re-epoxied it and let it dry for 5 days instead of the previous 3... and it's once again alive and in good health.. so back to that bass!

thanks and i hope you don't have to either. i think it was.. but if it wasn't it was the 10 minute one that's gray and black. this recone was done with the 5 minute one... oh and thanks.

I planned on waiting atleast 48 hours

surround glued..

here's how destroyed it was... separated there too. my finger fingers.. and here's what i just did...

should i use spring clamps on both the spider and surround, or just the spider? and if it is just the spider should just use can of paint or something as the weight for the surround?

recone kit will be here monday. then waiting atleast 48 hours to bump.. wish me luck.

thanks... but i wish i could say i was adding more power or something but i'm not just rewiring everything in the trunk, adding grounds, making it look prettier, blah blah nothing special

10 ft. of each thick the dustcap i don't need and the knife i bought today

gunna have to pass

these came today.. ten 1/0 terminals from darvex oh and that's my new baby 17" pro