CrazyKenKid

if you guys want to stay stock then you will need some form of integration module and a bit of elbow grease! https://pac-audio.com/ I have used one of these in the past on my 2010 ford escape it worked fine but I ended up loosing my sync features. but that was also ~5 years ago I'm sure the technology has improved since then.

wow nice find!

you do realize this thread is from 2010 right?

Voltage will be the same at either point as it is in parallel, so which ever is easier to measure at. In all my build i always install an external voltage meter it helps me to bump better at stop signs I like to use this with some two way tape. https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SVMB-Voltage-Gauge-Discontinued/dp/B001HEE8IS but I agree with tirefryr the bottle neck would be your battery.

what head unit are you installing? also I assume the car is on when you have the colors matching?

Morning RK, If you would like to try/have an JL Audio Clean sweep I have one of those you can have. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-qvIxLKXiJNc/p_136441DSP/JL-Audio-CL441dsp-CleanSweep.html I was going to use it to integrate with my Ford escape so I could retain my steeringwheel controls and sync functions also. Long story short I ended up just installing a double din head unit. I don't mind giving it away as when I was younger car audio peaked my interest and from it I learned all about electrical, like power, AC/DC watts, ohm (resistance), capacity (batteries and caps) and now Im a system integrator all because of car audio! so I wouldn't mind helping out! if you would like it drop me a PM w/ your address and I will send it out soon

So if I'm looking at that link correctly you are putting 1/0 awg into the set screw side and the other end goes into your amplifier? If so i wouldn't recommend those because if you simple stripe the wire back you get more contact area and less chance of something shorting across those connectors. If you plan to use those be sure to heat shrink around the entire connector because if something conductive shorts across those terminals that isn't good. Personally I wouldn't waste my money on those just stripe the wire neat and insert! notice in the above picture, I didn't use those connectors I just stripped my wire nice and close.

you can't reduce 1/0 to 1/0. are you referring to a 1/0 to 1/0 coupler/joiner? If so they work great just make sure you wrap them in tape or heat shrink to insulate them. I have used these in the past, they served the purpose. https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SPT5210-Classic-Output-Shoc-Krome/dp/B001H52AAA

I was going to by the RF 3sixty.3 today, then noticed a JL clean sweep. From what I can gather the JL simply converts the signal, from a OEM head unit, to a flat signal then outputs to an amplifier. The RF360.3 will convert the signal, from a OEM head unit, to a user defined signal via the EQ functionality then outputs to an amplifier. If I purchase a RF360.3 how likely am I to give my amp, SAX100.4, a flat response? If I purchase a JL clean how likely am I to make that signal something other then flat? In other words for me, a person who doesn't compete but enjoys good quality, would I be better off with a JL or an RF? Also from what I have read, if I change the EQ on my OEM head unit it will also change the output of the JL unit so in this way I get a basic EQ rather then a super advanced EQ, what the RF 3sixty.3 offers. lastly what I noticed is the JL has no sub outputs and takes high level inputs. If I wanted to run a sub how would I do this on the JL unit? thanks for the help guys.

ya kind a what I was thinking after I ran the test and thought about it for a bit. I looked into an RTA machine and the cost was a bit high. I guess I could go to a car audio place and see if they have one I can use to see what my stock system is doing if a clean sweep is required. Thanks Impious for the input and telling me what the results really where! it is good to still see you and M5 here!

so after doing this test my result where linear. but i don't know what kind a modulation the OEM headunit is doing to the output to achieve this linearity of the OEM system. I realize my head unit might be processing the sound output to match the response of the speakers being used. I think I will use the JL sweep if it can be had for a reasonable price. thanks everyone for your replies.

in regards to links, that is information I have found on the supplier web site, other forums a youtube video's. http://www.jlaudio.ca/car-audio-oem-interface http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/3sixty.3 happy hunting. if you would like to know something directly please message me here!

for refernce: track: http://newmp3download.net/01_-_jl_audio_-_cleansweep_clean_sweep_calibration_track.mp3_4shared_download_mp3_3_MSRRp8.html android app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=radonsoft.net.rta now to test it out! crap i got to by some CD's (or toss it onto my usb stick)

that is a good idea. I found a free RTA analyzer for my cell phone now all i need are tracks! any idea where i can get some tracks?

thanks!

for the amps i plan to use: -SAX100.4 (old rev) -SAZ1500 (not sure what rev) -sub my old night shade or something sealed -batterie(s) not sure yet maybe batcap 2000 -speakers OEM for now but if they are a pile of crap they will be swapped with something cool like a comp set,maybe i will try that sundown set!

thanks dblevel, last question of the night is there a place where I can look to see if I need the channel summing for my 2010 ford escape? JL CLSSI (i think it is called) it is used when my OEM head unit doesn't send out a full range signal. the JL seems to have a few add on's but I am not sure if I will need any of them any comments guys

Nadcicle, are you saying that using an RF is overkill as an RF should be used for more of an "audio junky" or in a competition stand point? I realize the RF is: -8 channel -advanced signal processor -200+ channels to setup if needed -phase control -time delay -pretty much a little computer with one function (sound). I realize the JL is: -dumb -fixes what it see's or rather corrects or strips out outside modulation end goal is to use my factory OEM head unit to get a better sound out of my speakers and add a sub. by keeping my OEM head unit and simply interfacing with the outputs on the OEM head unit I will retain my blue tooth, steering wheel controls and other misc sync items. If I have to replace my speakers in the door panels I will no big deal. I am driving a 2010 ford escape. I did do a double din in the past with a PAC interface module but I was unhappy with the loss of my sync and bt from the head unit vs the sync BT. As I think about my choices I am leaning more and more towards the JL. Although the cost difference is around 150~ on average.

come to think of it to get the sub and amp combo I guess i could jump the full range signal to the sub amp and then just use the LPF and be done with it?

lmao! very good idea! thanks! time to buy my RF360.3

Hey everyone! it has been a super long time! sorry I haven't been on here lately, work has been keeping me very very busy plus my new job doesn't allow for car audio as I am a travelling service technician. But I will be quitting my job and moving to the states, so this means I now have room for Car audio again in my life/trunk! I am looking to install a RF 3sixty.3 in my 2010 Ford escape. I am looking to keep my OME head unit. Here is how I want to wire everything Factory Head unit speaker outputs To AOEM-FRD24 module To RF360.3 via RCA To Amp via RCA To OME speakers connections behind the OME head unit using wires. I want cut the female connector off, from the module, splice the speaker outputs, from the amp, to female connector end and I believe this will keep everything neat and tidy. Reference links: http://www.installer.com/item/display_item.php?it=aoem-frd24 http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/3sixty.3 my question is the module only offers 4 RCA's, I assume those are full range RCA's (20-20khz) and are intended for L/R front and L/R rear. in the future I want to add a sub woofer. to do this would I be able to jump one set of RCA's over to the sub inputs? or would this not work? or can i do something internally with the RF 360.3 thanks for viewing and if you would like more information please let me know. Kenneth

jumper harness! ya that is what I am looking! thanks again!!

o wait a second..using RCA's isn't that better then using wires? the module off hand costs about 30$ on ebay. I would like to avoid cutting into the factory harness as much as possible.

thanks and you hit the nail on the head! i don't need the pac thing that converts high outputs to RCA's! nice! do you know off hand where I can simply by a connector then? thanks Kenneth

just donated $100 and you must enter a USA address, even though you can choose different countries you can't complete the donation. Best of luck!