bigrank916

I picked up this car recently and wanted to toss in some equipment that I've had laying around BNIB for years. I don't know how much of it will fit or how to make it work but I'd like to use all of it if possible. This is all the same stuff I was going to install in the old Merc. That car didn't work out and was sold a few years ago. I'm going to attempt to install this myself again but was looking for pointers so I don't fuck anything up along the way. I've been looking at a few videos on how to take the interior apart etc. Not gonna go crazy like I did last time tho. I think when it gets here, I will start with the h/o alty and the big 3. I bought an alt from Mechman that is about 370 amps. Planning to lay a few runs of neg and pos 1/0ga cable. I'd like to grab a D4800 for under the hood and something else in the back if needed. Maybe a D3100 if space limitations don't get in the way. I've seen the JP batts as well and look nice for how small they are. I've seen that using an aftermarket head unit is a bad idea which will prob make this more difficult to source a signal but Idk. I've been cruising the AudioControl site and might have come across a few things I could use. An LC8i for the mids and tweets and an LC2i pro for the sub. Might as well add in the Epicenter too. The Epicenter isn't prob needed tho I do like cool shit. I was looking for a DSP model but they're sold out everywhere. Only thing I could find was the D1200 amp/dsp for $1300. I would go that route but I'm too lazy to sell all the shit I already have. I'm thinking this stuff will cover the signal issue from the factory head unit? Would I need anything else? I have no idea so I'm hoping to get a lot of help here lol. My thot was to buy the LC8i, LC2i PRO, and Epicenter. I think these 3 would cover what I need to install the 8 speakers and 1 sub. I'm not sure how all this goes but assuming the Epicenter will be after the LC2i Pro and before the amp. I was also wondering if my sub is D2 ohm wired to 1 ohm, the speaker wire is only 1 channel. Would I plug pos into one left channel and the neg to the second pos channel? If I only use one side, I would only get left or right audio but not both correct? I will most likely make the lcd screen swap I've seen on YT as well. Other than that it was gonna look stock for the most part. I like the look it has, just needs some beat. Do you guys think this will work? What are the obstacles you see right away? I'm open to all ideas or changes. The items that I already have are as listed: 1- SSA 15" D2 XCon 1- AudioQubed Q1 2200D 2- NVX JAD800.4 4- SSA Evil 6.5" mids 4ohm 4- SSA Evil 1" tweets 4 ohm Mechman 370 amp billet alternator sound dampener wiring and cable

What kind of alternator did you go with in that VW? I think your car would have the group 47 battery? Mine is the 48 so I've got a few more electronics I think as well as being a midsize SUV. Where did you use the 2/0 cable at? 2 runs of pos to the rear from the batt or alt? Yeah I fucking wish I could just yank that head unit out. I was planning on using the old Pioneer DEH 80PRS but that plan went up in smoke quick. Its fitting that I left off with probs in that Merc and getting new ones for the Audi. I'm half tempted to drive it by the shop of Steve Meade Designs here in Sac and ask them what they would do lol. I met Steve before but I highly doubt he would remember me. I know exactly where the shop is and it looks like he has a walk in storefront of some kind. Maybe when I get the electrical done I might cruise by

I'm not sure what you mean by "jump inputs" for amps. Come to think of it, my stock speakers are actually 2 ohm besides the trunk sub and possibly the front center channel as well. I think those might be 8 ohm. Your suggestion had me thinking of instead of just classic wiring one speaker for each channel, I could run 2 of each mid/high in parallel for a 2 ohm load. I would use both doors on each side together. That would leave me with 4 channels and using only one amp. What do you think of that route? Ok well I like the idea of keeping shit the same so since I don't have to buy the isolator, I'll use it. I might end up using AGM under the hood and lithium in the rear. That's too bad about the resting voltage. I cranked mine up a few notches in my old truck but this is obviously much different. I guess I will find all this out when searching the vagcom software. I'm gonna have to get that and a decent laptop. Or a tablet I guess. Will those work too? I just need it for that and possibly a DSP software since I would have the ability to use it then. Plus they could make this install a bit easier. Hopefully

Hell yeah man I appreciate the help. What are the reasons that led you to use the WavTech over the Audiocontrol units? I don't have any brand specific needs for this build with the equipment that I need to buy. I just want to make sure I understand why and that it works w/o issues . My first question would be, shouldn't I get the Link 8 so I can use all the factory door speakers? Then also get a Link2 for the sub? I guess the same basic plan I had for using LOCs except not Audiocontrol. The link 6 would leave me short one channel of input right? Oh shit that CAN word gives me nightmares from the old Merc. When you say stereo, you mean the stock amp right? I don't even think changing the head unit is an option. Or just replacing the speakers will throw codes? This is exactly what I need to avoid. I want to do this slowly and make sure everything stays the same. Just want crazy beat lol. This is actually my first newer car. I plan on having it at least 5 years so I'm gonna do this right the first time. Ok so just changing the battery will throw codes? I see this vagcom is a software to buy. They had to change the name cause of copyright. Did they not think that was taken yet?? Sounds like something I could use in other areas for the car as well. Well damn ok this is all great info! I have a battery isolator but would love to hear your input on why I should use it. I don't really listen to music with the car off but its prob for another reason I'm assuming. Hell I'd just buy what you tell me to get if you have already done this in a similar Audi before. Not too much info out there for what I'm trying to do. I usually depend on Yt videos but they all seem to be the same stuff.

I'm right there with ya! I can't wait to have some real beat again. It's been way too many years.

Man you right those batts are tiny! Not very much more than the batts I was looking at except for the Titan. Considering my alt is 370 amp, that LTO batt would be in the 5k watt range. I would only need one of those but 2 would make it nice for future upgrades. The 2 pack combo, add buss bars with charger looks perfect. I'm sold lol. I have a bnib 500 amp isolator from NVX that is old as well. Looks like it will stay in the box.

I've been looking into using 9 of the 10 speaker system for amplifiers. The 4 door tweeters and 4 mids with sub. I'd like to keep the front center channel playing from the stock amp if possible. The prob I have currently is not knowing exactly how the high level input signal is tapped into. I've never had to use speaker level inputs let alone with a stock integrated amp. I'm trying to plan what parts I need but I need to understand this better. I still want to retain all the stock chimes and alert/alarm noises but don't want all that coming thru the sub etc at same volume. Would I cut any of the existing speaker wires or just splice into them and where would I do that at? The videos and diagrams I've seen are pretty contradictory. If I'm replacing all the speakers and running wire from my amps, will that affect the radio in sensing that there isn't a speaker hooked up anymore? I'm guessing I cut/splice into the speaker wires before they go into the the stock amp to get the speaker input? Would I leave the one center front channel speaker wire hooked up the the factory amp and cut the others for the LOC? Or leave them all connected to the amp and just splice into the wires? Is this the best place to get the signal? I have no idea what's going on there. I'm stuck for now. From that point I feel like I have a better understanding of what's going on. I was looking at using several pieces from AudioControl like an LC8i for all 8 mids and tweets. Then a LC2i PRO for the sub channel. That would easily place all nine channels. Then from there I'd use Y connectors on both mids and tweets channels from the LC8i to run to something like a LC7i PRO or a DQ-61, etc. Ultimately after that I'd like to use and EQX or some kind of EQ or EQ/crossover combo if possible. Then also toss in the Epicenter Micro. Not sure what order all of it goes in but i think at least it's gotta start with the LOC. My new Mechman 370 amp billet alternator got here today. I will be concentrating on running the big 3, installing the new alt, and running several 1/0ga power runs to the rear while I plan the components. I think I have enuf for about 3 runs, maybe 4. I'd like to use all that I have left from a 50ft spool I bought years ago. I will get an XS Power D4800 battery for under the hood very soon. I will also get the charger to make sure I install it at full power. I'm not getting it yet but I'd like to get a secondary battery like a D3100. After I get the main electrical done with main battery, I will decide what secondary battery to use while beginning to order the OEM integration parts. That would prob be all I'd ever need for that vehicle. Eventually I will mess around and get a larger sub amp/sub to see what it can do so the extra power will come in handy.

You're tellin me. That Merc project was a fucking nightmare. I plan on keeping the stock head unit to avoid any probs. I kinda like the stock look too. Too many bells and whistles in plain view could attract unwanted attention. I'll definitely look into the NAV screen replacement more tho as i just whizzed by a few videos on YT that seemed pretty straight forward. Do a deeper dive into the reviews and bugs that arise from the installation. I really don't want any stupid probs by just trying to upgrade shit for the sake of it. I like a larger screen but at zero potential neg costs. Beat is definitely the main focus. One thing I did notice right away is that you lose the ability to fold down the screen if you want to. Ive never had any kind of NAV besides a pos garmin add on for like $50 so this one is pretty sweet already. I found one answer to my questions on a YT video about the LC2i PRO. If using it only for a single sub channel, they say to use the left channel high input only. I think I may have jumbled my question in the last post asking about the sub and ohm shit. I'd like to know exactly what needs to be wired up to what so I know if I have enuf old cables laying around to finish the job. Now I'm debating adding the EQX into the mix as well. My list looks like the LC8i for the mids and tweets(4 front and 4 rear), LC2i PRO for the sub, EQX for all of it if possible, and the Epicenter micro for bass.

Well shit that makes sense why I can't find them anywhere lol. Thank you for that large piece of helpful info! I definitely don't wanna deal with any bs on the tech side. I'll just stick to the LOCs, Epicenter, and EQs then. Makes the potential game plan a bit different too. I'm interested to see how the JL works out for you. It looks like quite the unit and JL been around for a while too. No worries about the long post. I appreciate the detail!

Man I've been looking for a DSP but both versions are sold out everywhere. What happened to yours? This infotainment stuff is pretty new to me.

Im looking for a clamp style meter and ebay looks like the cheapest route. Im looking at a couple and would like some opinions on which would work best. Im looking for a true rms digital clamp meter. Immediately I plan on using it on my stereo's, mainly for AC voltage and current, but later for home repair with DC voltage and current. Its not a temporary buy as I want this to last awhile. I was also looking for the one that Jacob used in his testing but couldnt find it. He even posted a link where to buy the exact one. Of course Id like a fluke or a fieldpiece but they are too expensive and Im recently unemployed. Heres the ones im looking at now. The one thats catching my eye is the Mastech. What do you guys think? http://cgi.ebay.com/New-MS2108-6600-TRUE-RMS-AC-DC-CURRENT-Clamp-Meter-CATI_W0QQitemZ290347890566QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Electrical_Equipment_Tools?hash=item439a153786 http://cgi.ebay.com/True-RMS-AC-DC-Clamp-Ammeter-Amp-Meter-Capacitor-Tester_W0QQitemZ370156729969QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item562f0f7671 http://cgi.ebay.com/Mastech-Auto-Range-True-RMS-Clamp-on-Meter-Multimeter_W0QQitemZ200400293509QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2ea8c9ce85 http://cgi.ebay.com/True-RMS-AC-DC-Clamp-Ammeter-DMM-Capacitor-Tester-HVAC_W0QQitemZ390110572116QQcategoryZ50961QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D10%26ps%3D63

Still looking for an update here...this has gone on long enuf. Im shifting from waiting patiently to getting irritated. Send me the items i payed for. 9 months have gone by. I see they are available to buy in the store. WTF?????

Any update on this yet?

Yes it is order #1909 from 1800woofers.com. The purchase was on Dec 23rd.

Ok cause I'm still waiting on a pair of them to be shipped from a back order. Do you need my info again?

Did those ever get shipped out yet?

Any update on when the Evil 4ohm mids are to be in?? I've been waiting on the back order for 5 months now. I ordered some with sig but I'll take a plain set at this point.

Well...here is my new baby! She needs some kind of lovin!!!

Thanks bro. I have way too much time and effort invested into this car to change course now. She makes me mad but I guess we put up with it from all ladies lol

Well an update...I bought a new key for $300 and it did not solve my issue. I went back to the drawing board and tried to diagnose further. Took apart the dash and removed the EIS. Was contemplating sending it to a company in BC for diag/repair but decided against it. It sat on my desk for about 3 days and then I tried putting it back in...IT WORKED!!! First time and every time since I've put the key in, the system unlocks the steering and then authorizes the key to turn and start. Fires right up every time. Even my oldest key that went "bad" is now working with a new case but same guts even tho it did not work before I removed the EIS. Yes, yes I know by just removing the EIS, it will not fix itself or reset anything. It seems to coincidental. Now my question is wtf just happened??? I'm fixing other probs that aren't as important as this in the dash like the linkage arms for my AC stepper motor but won't get here till next week. So I have a week to keep poking around before I'm going to want to button this up and move forward. Just hate putting it all back together when I never actually found the prob to fix. Took a meter to my ESL and found it was putting out the proper voltage at all the key positions. So now I have 3 keys that all work to start the car (also have the new 4 button so I can pop my trunk w/o a key!!) but no reasoning in why this was happening. Most MB techs will say 85-90% of the time, it is the ESL that is the prob. Not the EIS but they love changing both just to make you spend more money and really feel like an MB owner Sending my EIS and all 3 keys to BC is about $225 including shipping. Buying an SDS from Craigslist is $600 and the icarsoft MBll scanner is $150. I'm leaning towards purchasing the SDS as it can do waaaay more shit. I joined MBWorld and have been getting a ton of help there but now hit a snag. Still waiting for more techy advice lol

i would give my left nut to get a ride along in one of those!!!

I tried that first J. 3 different fuses for starting and all were good. I even ran thru the fuses before I started the install of the HU and made sure all was good. Its crazy because all the probs I've been having are since the car has been sitting. Before I took apart the car I had none of these issues. I'm betting that my electrical probs with the bad alty caused some of my other electrical components to take a shit unexpectedly. I'm gonna sleep on it for a few days but I think its been enuf of a headache.

I must have THE worst fucking luck. I get my stereo all wired up and putting together the dash when my key suddenly wont work in the ignition anymore. This key is only 6 years old. Still works for the doors and filler flap tho. I bought it from the dealership when my last one did the same thing and left me stranded. Now its in a carport with the windows down and I cant get them up or move the car. I've searched the net and come up with 3 options. The key, electronic ignition system, or the steering wheel lock. The key is about $200. The EIS can be $1k-$1500, and Idk what the ESL would be. I think this car has finally broke me down. I constantly have had nothing but probs since taking it apart to install a fucking stereo. I'm about to list it on Craigslist for parts. I thot I was making major progress until this. I can't stand putting hundreds if not a $1k or more when its barely worth $1500...ruining my whole fucking vibe today

Got the HU wires figured out and it powered up. Gonna install the rcas cables and remote wire today if it stops raining. Had a question about the 80PRS. It says to flip the DSP switch from standard mode to network mode if using multiple amps. Then reset the microprocessor. How would one go about doing that? I think I figured out the alarm/locking/light prob tho. Door switch on the driver side must be bad. I get door ajar messages on the dash when the door is closed and driving. That is coming on Monday. Now that I've got a few things fixed electrically this build should pick up speed along with the good weather.

Actually the Q can be ported or sealed. The BTL is ported only. Never heard the Q but I owned a BTL about 10 years ago and it was the best sub I'd ever had. If you like to bang pretty loud and enjoy some earth shaking lows, I'd go with a BTL.