bigrank916

Trying to get some ideas on how much I need to complete my Mercedes C230 coupe. If I have a lil bit extra left over that is ok too. I have two other cars that could use some. I wanted to use spectrum instead of CLD but I'm kinda worried about the over spray. Kinda why I was leaning towards the sludge instead which can be applied with a brush. I've seen a few vids that show it isn't that much but I would need to completely tape off my dash and all the windows for the spray. Plus i have quite a few plastic parts inside that spectrum wont adhere to. I also had thot about using luxury liner pro instead of buying the MLV/CCF seperate but it was cheaper this way. This is what i'm thinking of buying: 32 sq ft of damplifier B stock 36 sq ft of Overkill (CCF) 36 sq ft of Luxury Liner (MLV) 24 sq ft of Heatwave Pro (thermal barrier) 3 cans Spray adhesive 1 8oz vinyl contact cement I plan to cover the floor and sides with CLD/CCF/MLV and then under the headliner and hatch will be CLD and a thermal barrier. I'll be doing the roof 1st so if there is any thermal barrier left, which I suspect there will be, I'll use that on the cabin side firewall. What do you guys think? Any suggestions?

Sactown the mack town lol. Yeah the doors seem very doable with the LLP. I will agree it is indeed much more quiet than most of the cars i've owned. I will be running with the foam inside the crevice idea. I think I've seen the crash bars in the doors but i'm not sure. The foam I will keep in there as well. Just add some CLD under it. I guess i forgot to add that. I too would like to keep the bass inside the vehicle but also two fold in keeping the sound out. I've been eyeing the Fi team series woofer...so yes i too would like it violently loud lol.

I have them in my wish list so I will most likely grab a pair just to see what they sound like. If they don't work out for what I need in this car, I can use them elsewhere. I had really liked the review that JBLcamry left on the PRV neo mids. He was pretty thorough and seemed to enjoy them a lot. I read plenty about everyone loving the evils too tho. I'm still pretty far away from the door process but when I get there, I might try a few cheap options from parts express to get a feel for what I want.

I listen to a lot of rap. Not chopped and screwed but more like Jeezy and Gucci. I still love old gansta rap and 90s Rnb. Classic rock. Some trap sometimes. New age country and old. Elvis. Its eclectic. Mostly rap tho lol.

I have a question about the store items. Some stuff you can add to the cart and others only to the wish list. What is the reasoning for this? Are those items on back order? I know the SSa subs are but nothing else is noted saying this.

Actually it is a coupe hatchback. I could never drive a wagon unless it was a screamin deal lol. I'll have to look at the carpet but off hand I know it is all formed into three pieces. Driver side, passenger side, and center console/rear. They all have soft foam attached the the bottom the fits snugly in between all the floor pan crevices. It does seem to have a vinyl in between the carpet and foam. Its pretty stiff and thats what keep the form of the floorboards. Not sure how I would change any of that. Plus the foam would be a large job to take on after using LLP on the floor. I saw now yours bent arounf the center console and formed well to other places. I have a sample and theres no way this LLP will make the bends that my floor has let alone many other spots. It would of course lay flat and i would have a hard time fitting everything back over it. Its either insets in or leave them out and recarpet the entire floor. Wagon or coupe the rear wheels are indeed exposed inside the cabin. There is some mat laid over those but its not sticky. It has a felt backing. I planned to lay as much in the trunk/cargo area as possible. Do you have any pics of the support rod areas where you apply the butyl rope? I have an idea but I'd like to be sure. I started using the CLD on the roof last night. Only did the long flat areas away from welds and curves. I've seen that you used foam in the holes of your floorpan. Is that something I can do at all the supports rails too? Actually no I'm right next to Sacramento so we have a pretty dry heat all year long. I've felt high humidity in the south and I cant do it. And you are right. It looks like 70 degrees outside until a blanket of wet wraps around you lol. The temps here int he summer time can get well into the 110s and stay there for a couple weeks. I can feel the heat on my floorboards in the dead of summer. I even have a giant heat shield and mat on the engine firewall side thats stock. Nice looking too. So some heat barrier there and under the headliner should be enuf. Haha yeah I tend to dive straight in on things and iron them out later. Hopefully I wont make too many rookie mistakes on this build. I like to think I'm kinda smart but this stuff shows me I got a long way to go lol

It seems I have a lot of home work to do lol. I'm not very familiar with octives. I heard all the terms you speak of but I don't know what they mean. It's been a long time since I've read and tried to retain what little knowledge i did have about that stuff. I have made a 2 way active system in door pods before using Mach5s and some Vifa tweeters i think. Sounded good to me but i hardly doubt I have the ear to know what to listen for. What sounds good to me prob sounds like shit to most of you guys. Theres no car audio places around here that carry anything I would want to buy. M5 asked me the same thing about processing. Idk much about that either but i have a DEH80PRS head unit.

I almost got the Alphas when i was looking at the MLI5s. I've known that you have had them a long time too. The Evil must be good

I have a DEH 80 PRS head unit. Do I need something more? It has a DSP already no?

Well I do want loud midrange. Crappy sounding, not so much. I'm really not that knowledgeable on how to mate drivers together. What should I be looking for?

I'm not sold on the Evill especially cause of the depth but I really would like to incorporate the PRV. I've heard many good things about them. With my placement of the second speaker in the rear of the driver door, should i abandon it altogether and just use midrange and tweet? W/o building pods, I'm not sure how this will work. What do you think is a good way to go about this?

I recovered the headliner today. Made a few mistakes along the way but overall its not bad. Learned my lesson on a few things if I ever try this again. Wasn't too hard either. Two people would make this job much easier. If you try to remove it once you laid it down on the glue and have too thin of foam it will rip that shit right off and you are basically stuck at what point it has settled into. Get thick foam like at least 3/16" thick and if you get fabric w/o foam attached already, make sure you join those two layers together instead of trying to apply one at a time. I knew I should have done that but I took the advice of my uber crafty gf and didn't stick with my gut feelin lol.

Yeah from what I've been researching, making my own rings from mdf would be the best option. Maybe I could use self tappers but I'm not at the point of the build process yet to have even bought the midbass or midrange to check. I planned on using the PRV neo 6.5" mids with SSA Evil midbass in the same door. I know the PRV is pretty shallow but the Evil is like 3.25" depth so we'll see. Idk how the imaging will be affected by having the midbass behind me on the driver door. Besides making my own pods, which I've considered, I've got to start by using what I've got first. I think lol.

Well I don't need extreme but I always enjoy a lil overkill lol. I guess the main thing that bothers me when I drive that car is the heat in the summertime. 100 plus temps is hard to keep the cabin cool enuf for me not to sweat. Especially if I'm wearing any type of nice clothing. The heat barrier product and CLD was a no brainer but the luxury liner pro was kind of an add on for noise. I know its a pricey add on but I thot it would help nonetheless. How much, idk. Maybe I'll take a page from your book and start LLP with the doors since I will be using midbass /midrange in there. I double checked the floor board piece and I might not have a prob like i thot. I could shave some foam off to make it fit. On the other hand its soft enuf that I might not need to. i thot it was a much denser foam. After that I can gauge how easily it will fit into the floor pan and if its worthwhile. Also I see a lot of foam already behind the plastic panels as you spoke of. It seems this car was stock with several pieces covering the rear wheel wells as well as other random places. I appreciate the help JRoad!! Some people have a way of explaining things that give me a much clearer look at the big picture, which you do.

I'm attempting to cut down the road noise and panel vibration. It is a fairly quiet car as is. Not thinking it will be like a coffin tho lol. Idk maybe I don't even need that either. I don't really have a specific noise I'm worried about.

I forgot to ask how you attached the new mids on the old plastic rings. It looked like it had mounting holes on the old speaker? Mine was glued on as well but the speaker was made into the mounting ring. I just snipped off the basket and removed the speaker from the back. I dont have any holes tho to mount a new mid. The ring has about 3/8" lip. Ok to mount the mid to that?

My horn works now!! That switch did something for sure. I haven't been able to drive it yet since its taken apart but I moved it the other day and accidentally hit the horn while pushing the car. Shit surprised me since i'd never heard it work before lol. Forgot to order a new switch for the trunk release but I did order a few things to keep me busy for awhile. Got a 50ft spool of Mechman 1/0 ga cable for 2 runs of power and ground with 15 copper lugs. I debated using 2/0 but I think that woulda been overkill. 32 sqft of damplifier b stock 3 yards of black faux leather gator fabric and some thin foam for headliner and A/B/C pillar recover I'll start with the damplifier then work my way to the headliner and pillars. I pretty stoked to see how this will turn out. Once those are done I will get some heat barrier product applied the the roof and attach the headliner. I didn't see any spots where it was glued to the roof so hopefully the marriage they had before will continue. After I get the pos/neg cable runs laid out, I'll look into applying more sound deadening and thermal barrier layers.

I'd still like to use spectrum on the underside of my car but that may be awhile before I can get it up on a lift to clean and spray it. I'd like to use LLp instead of the CCF/MLV seperate but i dont think my floor panels will fit if i do. Prob use that on my doors tho. Thank you for the discount code! I'll be back for more but I have a lot to get me started for now.

I have quite a bit of uneven floor board under the front seats. I don't think I will be able to use CCF/MLV on top of the CLD. The floor board sections have foam that allows it to fit snugly in between the gaps and crevices. Luxury liner pro is 3/8" thick and might not allow it to sit properly. Prob didn't need it anyways.

No, you shouldn't have a problem running 4ga unless your amplifier calls for 1/0. Do you know what the min size input is? If you have the extra cable it wouldn't hurt tho.

You dont think spectrum works at all? Or just not a s good as 25% coverage of CLD? Yeah the only reason I was getting 32 sqft is that its on sale b stock. Reg damplifier is almost the same price for less material. Plus I can use it on my daughters car too. CCF/MLV I planned to do as close to 100% coverage as possible

Just insane bass I guess. Maybe I'll wait until I get something more suitable for that. Prob just gonna go behind the backseat and do what i can from there

Got my brake light switch in and installed that today. Seems like the old one was definitely broken. There was a small peg that was supposed to spring back but it would get stuck. Havent tested it yet since the car is torn apart and the batt is disconnected. Went on to the trunk release latch prob and figured that out. Not sure how to fix it tho. Its the small button inside the green housing that is supposed to click when it is depressed by the metal arm that comes down. But when the arm comes down, it wont push the button in far enuf to make it click. I cant see how either the metal arm or that tiny plastic head have been worn away. The tip of the sensor looks normal and no wear pattern crossing down on it. I've heard of people gluing shit to the sensor tip but that sounds ghetto. Idk but i guess i buy another sensor and see what happens.

Found some nice black reptile vinyl fabric for my headliner/pillar recover project for only $65!!! Shit is gonna be dooooope lol

Oh also I wanted to ask you about the 6.5 evils connected to that Audiopipe crossover. Did that work out well? I thot that was a no-no swapping out drivers for specifically component crossovers?