bigrank916

Yeah I just wanna paint mine black. Need something on the outside to make it stand out lol. Oh so you dont need to sand it down completely? Even easier. Never heard of plastdip but just looked it up. Seems like I would need a lot to dip the grill no? Does it have a glossy look too?

If I make a false floor for the extra batt in the boot I could Wall of from the behind back seat. That way when no one is sitting back there or free of bags, groceries, etc I could lay the seats down and get the effect of a wall. Sort of. Idk, i've never built anything this large but I know i can. Just need a lil direction

Damn that car looks good. I like how those sidewall stickers remind me of nascar lol. That CF wrap looks pretty nice. I've been thinking of pulling mine off, sanding it down, and then painting it black. How many different grits did you use for that?

Damn that went together fast!! Any updates/pics on the sound system??

Not many fans of a wall here lol

Can you build a wall behind the c pillars for a hatch area? I'd still like to use the back seats just in case but I want this sucker to be loud. And in all fairness, the car only KBBs at about $1300. I'd say its one major repair away from the junkyard anyhow.

Have you ever walled a vehicle before?

To wall or not to wall? That's the question.

How old is that 100.4? Idk how many versions they made but I owned one once and it was great. Sold it here lol. Are you willing to sell it separate? If so how much?

Got the headliner removed tonight so its completely ready for sound deadening. I'm thinking of using CLD with CCF/MLV combo on the entire floor, doors, and side panels. Then use CLD with a radiant heat barrier under the headliner and hatch. I'd also like to hit the bottom side of the floor pan with spectrum but that can wait. Going to recover my headliner and A/B/C pillars with a black vinyl as well. Maybe some kind of leatherette. It is originally a light grey fabric which after 15 years is pretty dirty in spots. I want to be able to wipe it down and clean it so i dont wanna use fabric again. I might adapt some tweeters to the a pillars too. One extra set could't hurt.

Thanks bro. I had to do it this way or I would have had stupid shit probs all the time. It's nice to see what's actually there. I know for sure Im gonna lay a shitload of mat and prob some of that spectrum sludge as well. A wall would be fun but i havent done one yet so the learning curve would be there. I've seen enuf of the build logs here tho that I could take a good stab at it. If thats the case then I would go with a pair of 15/18 Evils. Strap a pair of synergy 35.1Ds and be g2g. This could be a monster build...I would need a lot of direction and help tho lol. I'm already wanting to take suggestions on what else to put in here now that I have all this shit out. I saw Djjdnap used a Xbox 360 in his trunk. I have a PS4 but that bad boy rides my madden franchise so it stays put lol. Anything that would boot up to my Pioneer DEH80PRS. Maybe a seperate Nav system? Idk give me some ideas fellas

Ok...nowwwwwww were cookin!!! Everything but the main dash and the headliner have been removed. Fuck it. If you're gonna do it, do it right huh?

I looked up your stock alt and i keep seeing 180A. Cot dayum thats a big alt. I can see why you keep mid 13s but yeah for sure do the big 3. How many watts are you running total? 3k+ right? 2 runs of positive should be plenty. Maybe an extra battery in the rear. I know you need power to make power but 180A is a damn good start.

Decided to do some more removal of the interior and Im glad i did. Removed the center console. Then worked on the pass side floor board which revealed a few things. Some one left their Pioneer AVIC unit under there and I figured out why my radio reception was horrible. My factory antenna was hooked up to the dead Pioneer unit. Also the antenna plug that I was plugged into my radio was actually my power antenna that I didnt even know I had...or if it even belongs to my car lol. Shit was comical. They stuffed it in the pass side molding and pulling it out was like a rabbit in a hat trick. No wonder my shit is so fucked up This kinda gets me excited tho. I can see what's goin on and the vision of the build becomes a lil more clear. Hell I might even take the back seats out and put in a wall

Ordered the brake light switch today off amazon for $15. Kind of a pain in the ass to get to but it came out. Gonna fumble around the dash and look for a 12V constant so i can at least install the HU this weekend. Singer Alts gave me a quote for a 270A alt with 200+ amps at idle for $800. Steep...very steep but its the only guy that will make one besides Ohio. Gonna start w/o it and get a XS D4900 for under the hood. Then the XS D3100 in the back. I'd still like to do an all SSA Evil system. Sub, mid-bass, and tweets. Wondering what i should use for the midrange tho. Would it make sense at all to place the midrange in the rear of the door, mid bass up front, and tweet in pillar? Its all the stock locations. Will be adding some damplifier mat on areas in the trunk and doors. I'm thinking 2 runs of power wire will be sufficient at 1/0. Need to tackle the big 3 as well this weekend if I have time. Build is back on. Fuck it, drive her till the wheels fall owff!

That's a ton of work you have going into this. It looks beautiful bro. Nice ride. So much power in those its hard to even control once you break traction...which is often i bet Btw who did you get your alt from? I had Ohio and Singer give me quotes but I don't like how Tom from Ohio immediately bashed his competitors and claimed they steal everything from him lol.

Damn dude Ive seen 4-5 other MB forums but not that one!! Awesome find dude I appreciate it. Ive seen the steering wheel adjustment on other forums which Ive tried to no avail. So now I'll go off that link you had and try the brake light switch and possibly get a scanner for the hell of it. Ordering that part off amazon today so we'll see what happens

Yeah I tapped into the cigg lighter for 12V ACC and it works great. I decided tonight that I'm gonna skip all this factory wiring and run everything new myself. Its the only way to make sure I dont have ticky tack issues down the road. Still need to find that 12V constant like you mentioned tho. Theres gotta be one in the car somewhere and I'll find it lol. Dude I had the same issues with my radio reception. Never could get anything to come in that great and most wouldn't come in at all. Last install left the antenna plug that looks ok but its connected far behind the dash and I cant see what originally what it was connected to. Did you convert yours over yourself? The errors I assume are just that. I think the systems work properly, aside from testing the SRS myself by crashing it lol. Im not sure how to fix those but it doesn't alter the performance of the car so its just wait n see how it goes. I have no idea why the FO is still in there. I figured that I wasted the money on the few couplers I bought since its not even connected to anything. I thot I had read somewhere that the CANb or 2 line was the one that carried all the electronics inside the vehicle and the 1st one controlled engine/drivtrain etc? Its all confusing as fuck tbh. Wait...my battery will cause errors for SRS, ABS, and, ESP??? I just replaced the battery a few months or a year ago. I hardly even drive the car at all but it always fires up quickly. I just checked it and it sits at 12V.

All the audio components have already been removed before i bought this car. Why didn't you use the wires in the dash for your HU? The factory amp was in the rear wheel well in my car. There is no wires from the speakers there. Only wires to the taillights and FO lines. My whole prob started by the factory wires at the dash not working properly. The 12V constant reads 24mV...I get 12 ACC from tapping into the cig lighter and apparently the brown wire is my ground. There is a pic I took a few posts back of something that looked like a noise filter installed with the old aftermarket HU. I had no idea what it was but after removing it, I can no longer get power to the HU. Also I don't remember what wires it was connected to but i tried ground and 12V and nothing. I know I can find power somewhere but why am i not getting power from factory wires?? I'm starting to think that the ESP, ABS, and SRS notifications on the info screen in the dash have nothing to do with the Fiber optic issue. I can only assume it does tho as the previous installer

I keep trying to fix it but I just dont understand it. As far as i know, this is the loop that should be in my car. This shows a total of six components. I have the one at the HU, one behind the rear seat, and one by the factory amp in the rear that were not bypassed. There was already 2 or 3 bypass couplers in the back previously installed. I'm also confused as to why some of the wires in the loop arent actually in the "loop". The one behind the back seat is basically looped it itself and only taped to the rest of the loop. I only bought 2 couplers from the dealer since i didnt even know what i needed. One more will "close" the loop if its even in order in the 1st place. If anyone can help me, I'd really appreciate it. I don't wanna give up on this but I get discouraged every time I try to figure this out.

Hey fellas I've been researching this and would love some input. It's a 2002 Mercedes C230K 2.3L with one stock H-8 type batt under the hood and soon to be an XS Power XP3000 in the back. Wasn't able to find anything XS made for under the hood but if I could find one or another of similar quality, I'd go for it. Otherwise it's a stock batt but it is brand new. I'd like to use the Synergy Audio 35.1D as well as 1-2 more amps for the front stage. Call it 4k watts total guesstimate. Now looking at conversion tables, 4k watts is a 278 amp draw in a 14.4 voltage system. No, I don't believe I would be pulling that much power continually but more of a ceiling. I'm not sure if this is correct but in that case I don't think I'll ever find a single HO alt to cover this type of power. Add to it the power needed to run the car at its highest peak usage is prob around 100-120 amps or so? The replacement alts for my car range from 140-160 amps so I'm assuming they will leave a lil room but cant imagine them overshooting the draw by 50-60 amps. Or is that in anticipation of aftermarket current draw?? So in total that would be around a 400 amp draw at peak power consumption. Umm, fuck. Even then on a more conservative side we could say 300 amps since its a more realistic power draw than full tilt. 300 amps at idle?? Only one company said they could build one and that was Ohio. 200amp 225 peak but still hasn't told me the output at idle...I've asked twice now. I'm in the process of gathering info and will be calling DC Power today. Mechman already said he doesn't make one for my car and that's a bummer cause he was the only HO alt I've purchased before and the thing worked awesome on my old truck. I'm waiting for a response from Singer and thot to not even bother with Excessive Amperage or Iraggi. Definitely NOT Iraggi lol. Anyone I'm forgetting?? Oh and also from what I've been reading, I'd like this to be a 6 phase hairpin style. I mean I'll take what works but ideally that. Srcatch out DC Power. Called them and Anthony told me they don't make anything for it. Mainly because its a Bosche and the parts aren't very accessible. He said the best route I could hope for is getting the stock one rewound but will run into prob with high output at idle. Even then it could be around $200-300 for that. He also mentioned that i should pray with this option lol. Looks like I don't have many options here besides building a large batt bank? Obviously I can't use the amount of power I would like to so it seems more fitting of a 2k-2.5k watt total system but even then its still around 139-173 amp draw.

Whelp...this is a disaster. I got some fiber optic couplers that are supposed to close the loop from missing items. I installed one at the missing amp by the spare tire and another at the HU. Unhooked the batt for awhile and turned it back on to discover that my SRS, ABS, and ESP are now fucked up. I'm pretty much over this build now. This car is the WRONG one to try it in. Having not known wtf the last installed did or not did, it would be such a pain in the ass to track down all the problems with this fiber optic BS. I'm selling it for a G with the interior disassembled. I have a 2014 chevy sonic but I wont be putting anything in there. I will be getting rid of that soon too so I'll have to wait until I buy a new car. GAME OVER.

Nightmare city...apparently there is a CAN system that integrates all kinds of shit together. I've been scouring MB forums etc and finding out that this is way harder than it should be. I rea done post that told a guy he needed to run all new wires to the speakers cause he could trust what else it was connected to. The CAN has two wires and one runs stuff like power window and locks, HVAC, stereo, etc. Now my driver door wont lock...I'm about ready to abandon this shit.

I took my meter to the wires and found the Acc and ground wires for sure. When I test the supposed constant wire it reads 24mV. Wtf?? Not sure why when my meter is set properly and it reads the Acc wire in V. There is only one other wire in there and it doesn't read proper voltage. I've never had this kind of difficulty wiring in a new HU. This should be reaaaaally simple but its kicking my ass lol.

I've hit a snag installing this new HU. Wtf is that and why is it installed in my car?? For some reason I couldn't get my old HU to come on unless I left that contraption in there. When I took apart the dash to order a new kit, i found that and tried to remove it while cleaning up the wires. i thot it was some cheap noise filter or something? Well the HU failed to work unless it was installed. Now after removing it tonight, I can't remember where it went. Tried the gound and constant, then ground and acc but nothing. Now I cant power either radio. What am i missing here?? Shouldn't I be able to run straight to the factory wires and get power? It just worked a few days ago...I looked to make sure what wires were correct and I think I've got them right. 12V constant- blue/red 12V switched- black/yellow Ground- brown