Jump to content

Robertw813

New Members
  • Content Count

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Robertw813

  • Rank
    Newbie
  1. Robertw813

    Powerbass

    Thanks...again Supa. I think I'll just start PM'ing you instead since you seem to answer my questions about 15 min after I ask them -Rob
  2. Robertw813

    Powerbass

    Never found a pair to listen to. However, I picked up a pair of MB Quart PCE-216's for super cheap. Hope to get them all hooked up this weekend On that note, this is the first pair of components I have owned so I am curious if you guys reccomend placing the crossovers near the speaker/tweets or closer to the amp? Does it even matter or should I just mount them wherever is easiest? The cross overs are pretty damn big. Maybe someone will actually still be reading this post to. -Rob
  3. Thanks Supa, I'll try that. If anyone else knows feel free to chime in.
  4. Quick question since I can't find the answer myself. The A5000 is rated at 600x1 (bridged) a 4 ohms. Will it work ok bridged at 2 ohms? I know the old Sound Stream Reference (Ref500) amps would be ok like this. I have 0 experience with Cadence amps though. What do you think?
  5. Thanks Neon. If you fuse for the wires current carrying capacity are you just counting on the amp's fuse(s) to blow if it gets to much current? What I mean is if I for some reason I got 80 amps of current on one of the power wires it wouldnt blow a 125A fuse, but it would blow the 40A fuse in the amp. That sound right? I guess I was always brought up to fuse for close to the items needs. Sorry if I go to far in depth on this stuff sometimes, I just need it broken down Barney Style. -Rob **edit** Forgot to ask how you figured up the wire's current carrying capacity. Seems like useful information.
  6. I'll be running a bi-amp setup in the near future. As of right now the amps will be: Memphis MC3004 (75x4 @ 4 ohms) Memphis ST or MC 1000D (600x1 @ 2 ohms) Part 1: I have never done a bi-amp setup and was curious about the power wire. If I run this through a fused distrubution block, do I need an in-line fuse between the positive battery terminal and distribution block, or will the individual fuses in the block suffice? Part 2: I figured up the current draw on both amps based on the sticky in this section. It looks like: MC3004 will be drawing 32.5A 1000D will be drawing 44A I am currently thinking that I will run a 0/1AWG wire from the battery to the distro block, then 4AWG to the amps. I think 4AWG will be more than enough to carry the current but I could be wrong. As far as fusing the power lines should I just use a 40A for the 3004 and a 50A for the 100D? Thanks. -Rob
  7. Robertw813

    Powerbass

    I see people mention their subs from time to time, but has anyone tried their components? If so do you like or dislike them? What are they comparable to?
  8. Robertw813

    A few general questions

    Awesome info guys. Told you I have a way of over complicating things. On a side note, what amps do you guys use to push these things? You think 600ish watts would be sufficient, or should I step up some more? I have been looking at the PG Xenon / Viper / ED Nine.1 and a few others. -Rob
  9. Robertw813

    A few general questions

    I meant that if you had a board that was 14" x 14" (perfect square) and you mounted a round sub that has a diameter of 12.5" right in the middle that would give you .75"+ all the way around. I looked at that as being a minimum of .75" on either side or 1.5" of space. Hopefully that makes sense. I have a way of over thinking things. -Rob
  10. Robertw813

    A few general questions

    Im stationed at MCAS Yuma in Arizona. About 180 miles East of San Diego, CA and about 180 miles West of Phoenix, AZ. In regards to mounting the sub.... If it measures 12.5"and you shoot for 1.5" around it, is that saying that a perfect square would need to be 14"? -Rob
  11. Robertw813

    A few general questions

    Hi again guys. Well I got my HU and 4-channel amp all installed so that leaves me with the sub and sub amp now. Originally I was going to go for a 10" Rl-i, but I would REALLY like to fit a 12" Rl-p into my single cab (1999 F-150). I took a few measurements and it looks like it will work. Tight, but it should work. It can either be forward facing, or down firing Questions... 1) How much space is reccommended to be left around the edge of the sub when mounting it? 2) How much space does the magnet need from the back of the box? 3) Is there a big sound difference between a forward facing sub and a down-firing one? 4) How much space should I leave in front of the sub for excursion? 5) Is airspace just "airspace" in regards to the box having an odd shape? 6) Anyone build boxes in the Souther California / Arizona area (San Diego -> Phoenix)? These are the questions that spring to mind at the moment. Also if it matters I would be running 600+ watts to the 12" Rl-p if I go that route. Thanks. -Rob
  12. For my birthday, my girlfriend bought me a brand spanking new Eclipse 5425 HU. I chose to install it because I was ripping everything out in order to lay down wiring for new speakers and amp. And I just really like doing that stuff myself. The problem is this... Sometimes the display and buttons don't light up and are inoperative. The stereo still plays, but you can only adjust the volume level and change stations. You cant insert or eject a cd, change any functions, or even tilt the screen. Other times every thing works just fine and dandy like it should. There doesn't seem to be any patern to when it does this. I have triple checked my wiring and made sure that there is zero corrosion on the battery. As far as I can tell it is all good. My previous Kenwood HU which I didn't take out until I put the Eclipse in was working just fine. I have an adapter that slides over the factory harness and gives you all the wires you need to plug in an aftermarket HU. Also, I haven't blown a single fuse. I did find an Eclipse dealer in my area that said they can check it out for me, but it will take a week or so and I get charged if I botched the installation. They will exchange the HU for me if it is indeed bad. Anyone ever have a problem like this? Anyone have any more ideas of things that I might have missed? Thanks. -Rob
  13. Robertw813

    RL-i 10 Box Design

    Thanks Kuijo. PM sent. What is the general consensus on fiberglass enclosures? Don't think I have ever heard a sub in one. Anyone out there have experience with these things? I think it would be fun to build and great for saving some space as well as just cool looking. -Rob
  14. Robertw813

    RL-i 10 Box Design

    Thanks for the reply. It was pretty much exactly what I was looking for. Couple things to add/ask. 1) That .83ft^3 is indeed the net box volume. I figured with a sub in there it would work out close to .75ft^3, but wasn't for sure. 2) I am planning on just using a single RL-i 10 for the time being. I plan on using the MCD-500 amp. I'm was pretty sure that I can wire a single 4ohm DVC sub up for 2ohms. If not, I guess now is the time to know 3) Forgot to mention that I listen to pretty much EVERYTHING music wise. From Stevie Ray Vaughn to Snoop Dogg. Do you think a sealed box would work better, or a low tuned ported one? Part of my box building trouble is that I have a split bench seat which has a folding center console. It does partially limit me on how the box can be constructed, without losing its functionality. -Rob
  15. Robertw813

    RL-i 10 Box Design

    Everything I have heard about these subs so far has been positive. I want to give them a go in my new setup, but I might have a problem. Tell me what you think. I have a regular cab 1999 F-150 so I am limited on space. With the area I have to work with I can build a box that has an internal volume of just under .83 ft^3. Im not sure how much of that is taken up by the sub itself. Do I need more airspace or is this enough? I prefer SQ to SPL so I was planning on building a sealed enclosure, but am open to a vented enclosure if the sound would be better overall. I will most likely be using a Mono Block Memphis amp pushing around 500W @ 2ohms if that helps any. Thanks in advance. -Rob
×