Hell-Razor

I think I am moving from and L port to aero ports o I can get a little bit bigger box. I am trying to use this tool except I cant seem to get what I want. I am looking for about a 4.75 cuFt box (including displacement and bracing) with a depth no longer than 18 inches. I would like to get around 35hz for daily and 45-50 for competitions. Any suggestions? Help? The box is going to hopefully be 38w 17.5h and 18d which comes to a little more than 5cuFt and shuold be around 4.75 cuFt with displacement

SMD?

Im BACK! After being gone for a while traveling the world I have come back to my fellow members / friends / people / dudes / dudettes and folks on the good 'ol ssa forums (good job Mark). I am starting a rebuild once again. I literally blew my old box apart so its time to go bigger, badder and more bracing! I noticed a huge improvement from my 3.5cuFt box to my 4.25cuFt box. I hope to do the same when I hit a 4.75 ish box. I am installing into this box a single DC 15" woofer being powered by a 3500D. Here is what my plan is: BOX: Height: 17.5in Width: 38in Depth: 18.5 CuFt: 5.083 Square Port Volume Internal: 1134 Square Port Volume Displacement: 1144.125 Tuning Frequency: 33.5hz I also plan on buying a sound deadening kit through second skin audio to stop my trunk from freaking out (and hopefully get good meters this year). One question I had is about bracing. Is it possible to not do any internal but all external? I know the width will need it (the height should be ok I think) so could I do this - make it so the top and bottom sandwich the back (screw in from the top and bottom) and sides get overlapped by the back plate (so the sides are screwed in from the back) and then place a bigger piece and overlaps everything and re crew that in from the back. Then secure it to the back of the box (it overlaps the top, sides and bottom) using glue and dozen screws or so? In theory it makes the .75 turn into a 1.5 inch thick back plate.... if that makes sense then would that still need bracing? I know bracing does not take up that much room internally but if this way works as well then why not, seems easy.

Do you also know what kind of shape that side was in before the accident? If it was cracked then I would say even 2mph to a dead stop may be been enough to do it. I would believe him, he also may have been guessing and not just staring at the speedometer. I would assume he was going between 10 and 15 very tops.

one word... DAMN!

and the song is BASS MEKANIK - BASS RAVE

I know a couple of you on the forums have been in his ride but if you havent, and are down in the Phoenix area you HAVE TO! I was in it this past week and it is badass. :fing34: Anyway I just had a couple questions about what songs he normally plays. The main one I am trying to figure out and have been looking is the first song on his Phoenix video. Any help would be great. If you stay watching the video and know what the rest of the songs are I am also looking for them. I am in the car the very last part of his video and I cant wait to get back in after his rebuild! My hat is off to the SSA team and for what they do to cars. His 4 18" xcons are nasty!

Here is him doing . It starts at 1:30 when the hot blonde chick gets in. It is a little longer and it sounds like a techno song but thats all I can tell.

No worries man. Ill be back again in February ish so I will hit you up then if the offer is still on the table. I stay with a few friends that live in north east Mesa so I can pretty much go anywhere around the Phoenix area.

Nah. I was standing outside of it though while everybody was trying to figure out what your issue was. Was it the phasing or the splitter? Anyway, I wanted a demo but you seemed so busy I went elsewhere and when I cam back you were in line for the driveby.

Wills ride is sick. I cant wait to come back to Phoenix to see what you SSA guys do to make it better!

I do believe Will will be at this show for some demo's I plan on being there!

Nice! I will be in Phoenix during that time, I will have to stop by and check it out

Once I took my speaker out of the box I noticed some...issues.... Overall the speaker looks to be in pretty good shape except for one thing - the pad has come off between the cone and the tinsel lead / spider. On top of that, it looks like the tinsel lead came unstitched from the spider. I don't think this will be a huge issue but if there's a way to fix it I would like to try so I don't get tinsel slap (I think I was getting that before). Well here are my basic questions - - - - What kind of glue should I use to attach the pad back to the cone? I was told the glue "goop" should do the trick but if I don't have to run to the store I don't want to. Would just plain old super glue work? Should I bother with the unstitched portion or the tinsel lead? I think that it may wear through the spider eventually if its rubbing against it (and it is).

I am using the CSI-DMR-2012A volt meter and I am trying to measure the impedance of my speaker. So I set it to the 200 setting (lower right hand side if you look at the picture) and touch the probes to the terminals and I get 4.0 - 4.2. This is a two ohm speaker so shouldn't I be getting half that? If I did my research and talked with the right people I should be getting less than half of that current reading for a dual two ohm speaker. I liked this sub until I heard another and now I realize it does sound about half powered so something is wrong here...

It was the volt meter. I am getting 1.98-2.1 now per terminal. I am glad I went out and got a new one! this one looks kind of beat up. Thanks jay.. And yes thats how I had it wired up

I remember talking to shizz and a few other box builders on here and they all said "if the box is built well enough, no bracing is needed". Well is this true? I am working on a new box for my 15" - 38"w, 18"d, 16"h. I dont think I need bracing for a single 15" in that box, but I could be wrong (its a little oer 4.5 cuFt with port tuned to 32hz). I have been looking at other posts for people building their box and its either hit or miss for who does what with bracing. The one I just finished looking at is using bracing for a smaller box so once again, I am not sure. Forgot to add in - I will be putting a DC Level 5 15" in the box being powered by a 3500D

Thanks. Is it just me or does that box look like its ~15 feet long?

Ill start a second build thread... post some pics and whatnot. Tomorrow though, tomorrow.

I am really hoping my "everything must be within a MM" while measuring and re-cutting for this box will pay off. And the glue and L bolts dont fail me. I dont want my DC tearing it apart in a few days / weeks / months or even a year...

Good question, Ill be watching and waiting to figure out why...

True true

That thing... is.. wtf kind of box is that?! where are you going to put it? lol. Once I saw that I am not going to post my box.. its sad and has a thousand pen marks on it for all my lines and whatnot.

Box is already mostly built. I have a wood dowel going front to back and top to bottom, pretty much cutting the box in half. I am also using 22 2" L bolts seeing as I will be assembling it inside my trunk and wont be able to screw some sides on. I will be screwing it together from the inside, gluing it with liquid nails and the caulking the inside cracks (all but the back). I figure it will take my box from 4.55 cubic feet to about 4.3 at the most. Its still a big box and I think I did well. I could have made it bigger (and should have) once I realized how much more room I can fit in the trunk (Should have gone to 5cuFt). 4.3cuFt at the minimum should be a nice improvement from a 3.5. Thank you lance, Steve, and sq! You guys are the shiznit +1 for you all EDIT: I should have been more clear on assembling it -- I am going to use the glue on the edges and then screw it together, then once it dries put another layer of glue on the edges, let that dry and caulk it all, It took me two days alone just to MEASURE and CUT the effing box so my wood working skills are pretty sad.