Hell-Razor

Alright. I will get a long circular piece of wood and do it from front plate to back, top to bottom and then should I do one from left to right? I will try to get it as close to center as possible, except I am not sure about the left to right because of the port.

Thats what I figured, thanks for all the great feedback

After googling around and not having any luck I decided to post here because of the "vibration control" topic in this forum. I would like to mount my amplifier on the back of my box without rattling it to death. I have looked at some youtube videos ( and it looked like he has only a mdf board between his amp and box. I was looking and found several things on the net but lots of them are expensive:Silicone Anti-Shock mats Rubber Screws Anti - Shock pads Anti vibration mats I do have some of the foam they use to sound deaden recording studios so I was thinking just putting three or four mats of that sandwiched between either a soft or hard piece of wood to mount my amp on and then screwing it all together tightly using rubber screws. What do you guys think?

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-aQ4spoLy4Bf/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html

If you go with sealed you could get three in there... I think I am going to go for straight cone area.. which would be 3 12" SSDs in a sealed box firing forward.

Alright update here -- I am stuck in a little predicament here... Do I build a new box or do I sell my DC Level 5 15" and go with 4 10" Fi BLs (or SSDs) and use my 3500D to power? OR Do I rebuild my box to see if that may be the issue (I think my 15 is lacking a good umph, but it does have a hell of an umph). Here is a design by Dave the Box Guy: that I will build if I decide to not change my setup: Aero Ports: One port in 2 ports in 12"-35 hz 12"-50 hz (Internal) 13"-34 hz 13"-49 hz (1 inch out) 14"-33 hz 14"-48 hz (2 inchs out) 15"-32 hz 15"-46 hz (3 inchs out) 16"-31 hz 16"-45 hz (4 inches out) 17" 30 hz 17"-44 hz (5 inches out) ** I'm thinking of either doing the 2 inches out or all internal** I am just having a hard time figuring out if this box will really be big enough for my 3500D and 1 DC level 5 15

Alright mono block it is! I dont know what was happening before but everything is fixed now. I think a 3500D should be enough (for now) to power BLs sufficiently.

Hey guys, I am looking at getting 4x 10" woofers (hopefully from Fi) and it looks like I am stuck between the BL and the SSDs. I like the SSDs because they can be put in a smaller box, but I like the BLs beucase they have better performance than the SSDs. My question is how much better? I dont think currently I will be able to toss 8k watts at all four 10s like the BLs require, but I will be able to eventually. I have the electrical to back it up as well. I am trying to switch from a single 15 to 4 10s and have the ability to probably almost double my power eventually. I am pushing a single 3500D with a 350 amp alty and three huge bats.

Something happened before and I couldn't post, all fixed now. After reading the quick responses I will keep my 3500D for power! I will start up what I have in my head in my build log to try and keep things organized.

I updated just as you posted

I am still trying to figure out how does the SSD relate to the BL, anybody?

Oh shit youre right m5. I have no idea where i got that from... but still.. Equal power I assume the BL with out preform the SSD. Now the only question is do I have the space / money for it...

You could always COD it

Very true... I could do the SSD instead of the BLs (even though I dont think their output is nearly as good but not 100% on that, anybody else know?) and do a sealed box because they only need .4 (.62 with displacement) and that would = about a 2.73 cuFt box.. Right now I have a 3.5 and have enough room for about a 4.25 box with amps and bats... Or I dont HAVE to go with fi...

Well I was originally going to do SPL comps but I haven't been to one in two years and I figure it may be time to move on.... So I figure, should I keep my 15 or sell it? I am thinking of doing a different build - from 1 15 to 4 10" woofers.. Not too sure what kind yet but probably Fi bls (or maybe qs) and strap one amp to them for now and if I want to upgrade it I have the electrical for it (3 bats in the trunk and a 350 amp) strap a bigger, or another amp on. But heres my question mainly - how will having more cone space but less power do? Will it be just as brutal if I tune low or will I be missing out a lot?

Haha.. the "downgrade" was a play on words. I think it will be more sick than the 15 I have now but I am just curious how much more sick.... I need to upgrade one more bat (under my hood) and still do the big three.. I mean if I can sell my amp now and buy 4 10s and an amp and keep it under 1500 I may be able to do it. I would like to try and do around 3k power for all three (maybe 4k if the price isn't too much). I was thinking about BLs but those are like 350 shipped so thats 1400 minus what I could get for my system (I am hoping for around 1200) and that leaves about 1100 for a new amp...

Well my trunk latch has failed, my license plate has fallen off and the back driver side door lock has stopped working sense I put in my system but.... I downloaded and cranked to the max, banged that at least three times in a row for some friends / spectators and I noticed after that the dust cap wasn't even warm. Now I take it this is a good thing (signal isnt being clipped) except does that mean I can be pushing that speaker harder? If so what should I try and do? I have my gain pretty high, my SSF is set to 30hz (box is tuned at 32hz and it just happens to be right where that song peaks for my car) and I am looking for more ideas.. thanks!

I just got a box design confirmed by a few of my friends that it will work.. Now I do not have the space for it (doh). It is literally a few inches too big to fit in my trunk. Pretty much it is a 4 cuFt box tuned to 30hz using two removable aeroports. One removed keeps the tuning at 30hz, two in makes the tuning 44hz for comps. Now my question is what if I use pvc piping (I heard its not as loud because its not flared) and instead of having it come straight out, make a 90 degree angle as soon as it leaves the box... Anybody know what this would do for tuning? Or how to figure out with a box calculator what it may do?

I just realized that I need to go 6 inches outside the box. And if I were going to bend the pipe (10.5 inches) using an elbow I would actually take up more room.. Well sob. This box may not work after all...

Alright well I finally have a new box design for my level 5 15". I just need some help with those of you who have built boxes in very tight situations. I have about an inch on the left and right side to spare and a few inches on top. I cannot build it outside and then toss the box in because my trunk space is too small. Rotating it will be difficult as well.. I have read on here people doing very big boxes in small areas inside their car. Pictures will be posted soon in my build log as well!

Well the port im using is 10.5 inches in diameter... i think thats a pretty big pipe... now two of those for tuning higher and thats a REALLY big pipe

Alright. Have any idea about the 90 degree angle? Im thinking it wont hurt the tuning that much.

Sweet! I like all the ideas... thanks a lot

YES! Thank you soooo much. I was racking my brain for the past half day trying to remember what they were called.

I was helping my friend out today wire 2 12" jls and we got everything setup and things were hunky dory. We took them from his old car, built a new box and tossed them in his new car. We powered it on (using multimeters to measure gains and SSF beforehand) and we started playing some tunes. All is well but I go to turn the volume down low to where the sub is barley playing and I noticed some scratching noise. I went back and pushed on the magnet (power off of course) and no scratching, no huge resistances... about the same as my 15. We took out the subs and they look fine. No bent coils (as far as I can tell), nothing is stuck, no burning...I took a quick peak at the terminals (we used screws in the wood for + and -) and they are pretty loose. Could that be the problem? Or maybe not a good enough ground? I don't think this sub is blown but I think something is definitely wrong.